Risotto with Peas or Risi e Bisi

June 29, 2010

pea risotto

This season my garden has been rewarding me with an abundance of peas. I've made stir-frys, soups, and now this risotto. Peas lend bright green pops of color and flavor to Italy's most favorite rice dish. Risotto is well known throughout the world but risi e bisi or rice and peas, is a lesser-known version made in the Veneto region, where much of Italy's rice is grown. It's considered a special dish in Venice, reserved for St. Mark's day in April, using the first peas of spring. What differentiates true risi e bisi from risotto is that it's much more soupy and is eaten with a spoon.

I grew up eating what my mom called rise bisi, which for her was long grain rice with peas. I never knew that it was related to a Venetian dish. There must have been some Italian influence in my mom's Hungarian cooking. I make this recipe more like a traditional risotto, one that is thick and creamy—and I eat it with a fork. It's not my mom's risi bisi nor the Venetian one, but it's just as comforting and flavorful. It does, however, use the last of my garden peas. But at this point I've had all the peas I can take for one season. Still I'm happy to celebrate the success of my garden with this bowlful of creamy rice and peas.

Risotto-making is practically a sport in the Italian Kitchen, but it's not as hard as it looks. Be willing to put in the time and patience and follow these tips for successful results. Make sure to use short grain rice—it has all the starch to produce a creamy risotto. The key to making risotto creamy is adding hot broth—in the beginning, wine—to the rice in intervals. The rice absorbs the liquid after each addition and slowly gives off its starch to thicken what basically becomes a porridge. And remember to stir constantly. The most important tip is to use a very flavorful broth and to salt liberally. The rice needs to absorb all the flavor it can get. In the end you will be rewarded for your hard work with perfect risotto.

Risotto with Peas or Risi e Bisi

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons butter, divided
1 small onion, chopped
1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 cup arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine, warmed
4 to 5 cups chicken broth, heated to a simmer
1 cup shelled peas, blanched for 3 minutes
1/2 cup grated Parmesan, plus more for garnish
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish

Heat oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a heavy bottomed pan set over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove onion and garlic to a plate.

Add rice to pan and toast for about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add warmed wine and allow rice to absorb liquid, stirring constantly. Once all liquid is absorbed add about 1/2 cup hot broth. Once again allow rice to absorb liquid before adding another 1/2 cup hot broth, stirring constantly. Keep repeating this process until 1 cup broth remains.

Add reserved onion and garlic and blanched peas. Add 1/2 cup hot broth and allow rice to absorb liquid before adding the final 1/2 cup. The entire process takes about 25 to 30 minutes. The risotto should be very creamy and the rice slightly al dente.

Off from heat, stir in remaining 1 tablespoon butter, Parmesan, and parsley. Divide the risotto among 4 plates or shallow bowls. Garnish with additional Parmesan and parsley. Serve immediately. Yield: 4 appetizer servings.

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Stir-Fried Pork and Sugar Snap Peas with Coconut Rice

June 24, 2010

pork stir fry

Peas are one of my favorite vegetables to grow. Just plant them near something they can attach to and watch them emerge from the earth, their tendrils climbing and clinging, eventually bearing bulbous pods filled with green pearls. I grow two varieties: classic shell peas and sugar snap peas, which I use mainly for stir-frying. But I love them raw too. They make a nice addition to a salad. Every now and then I'll pluck one from the bush and nibble on it while I'm out and about in the garden. Snap peas are crispy, sweet, and completely edible, pod and all. For me peas are the harbingers of spring going into summer.

This stir-fry recipe features sugar snap peas paired with tender pork, all enrobed in a Thai-style sauce that is sweet, spicy, and savory. Chicken or beef would also work wonderfully well in place of pork. To round out the dish, Jasmine rice simmered in coconut water makes a nice match. The sweetness of the coconut counterbalances the heat of the chile pepper. It's also lower in fat than coconut milk but just as flavorful. This simple and healthy stir-fry comes together in literally minutes, making it ideal for a quick meal for one hearty eater or two dainty ones.

Stir-fried Pork and Sugar Snap Peas

for the sauce:
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon oyster sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

for the stir-fry:
4 ounces pork tenderloin, thinly sliced
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
canola oil
8 ounces sugar snap peas, ends trimmed and stringed
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
1 small red chile pepper, thinly sliced
1/4 cup basil leaves, torn
1 tablespoon lime juice (about 1/2 lime)

for serving:
coconut rice, recipe follows
lime wedges, for serving
1 teaspoon white sesame seeds, for garnish

To make the stir-fry sauce, combine rice wine, soy sauce, honey, fish sauce, oyster sauce, and sesame oil in a small bowl or measuring cup.

Season pork with salt and pepper and a splash of fish sauce. Let mariante for 5 to 10 minutes.

Warm a well-seasoned wok or nonstick saute pan over medium-high to high heat. Add about 1 tablespoon oil to very hot pan. Add pork and toss and turn until browned and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove pork to a plate.

Refresh wok with about 1 tablespoon oil. Add peas and toss until speckled with dark spots and color brightens, about 3 minutes. Add garlic, ginger, and chile; sauté for 1 minute. Return pork to pan. Pour in sauce and stir to combine. Let reduce for about 3 minutes. Add basil and lime juice. Serve immediately over coconut rice along with lime wedges. Garnish with sesame seeds. Yield: 1 to 2 servings.

Coconut Rice

1/2 cup Jasmine rice
1 tablespoon canola oil
1-1/4 cup coconut water
1 teaspoon salt

Warm oil in a small saucepan set over medium-high heat. Add rice and toast until opaque, about 3 minutes. Add coconut water and salt. Bring to boil, cover, and reduce to low simmer. Cook until rice has absorbed liquid and is tender, about 15 minutes. Yield: 1 to 2 servings.

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Cherry Clafoutis

June 22, 2010

cherry clafoutis

As I've probably written here many times before, stone fruits—peaches, nectarines, plums and cherries—are my absolute favorite fruits. Cherries with their crunch, deep red color, and juicy flesh always bring me so much pleasure. It's easy for me to eat bowlfuls in one sitting. My favorite part of summer has always been waiting for the stone fruits to ripen, picking up cherries and sour cherries at the Greenmarket, and visiting local farms to pick peaches and plums right from the trees. Summer just wouldn't be summer without enjoying all its fruitful bounties.

A classic French clafoutis (kla-foo-tee) is one of the best desserts that uses cherries. It is traditionally made with dark sweet cherries or black cherries, but when made with other fruit it is more commonly called a flognarde. Last season I made a plum flognarde using the dark, oblong Italian prune plums. Served just slightly warm, a clafoutis or a flognarde is an ideal dessert in summer. Garnish with a dusting of confectioners' sugar and—if you're so decadently inclined—a dollop of whipped cream or crème fraîche. It looks like an impressive dessert but it's very easy to make.

clafoutis slice

If you know how to use a blender, then you are all set to make a clafoutis. The custard-like batter is beaten together just like you would do for crêpes. Then pour it over the cherries in a buttered baking dish. In France it is customary to leave the pits in the cherries, but I think it's a lot nicer for my guests if I pit them. My technique is to use a drinking straw to poke the pit out from the fruit. It's easy, just a tiny bit messy, but it works extremely well. Use any cherries in this recipe, even sour cherries, but you will have to add a lot more sugar. Enjoy all the cherries of the season.

Cherry Clafoutis

1 pound sweet cherries, pitted
2 plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon brandy
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup whole milk
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons melted butter, plus more for pan
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
confectioners' sugar, for dusting

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Butter a 10-inch glass pie dish.

Combine the pitted cherries with brandy and 2 tablespoons sugar. Let macerate for 10 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, remove cherries to the baking dish, reserving the liquid.

In a blender, combine flour, remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, salt, milk, eggs, butter, vanilla, and liquid from cherries. Pulse until incorporated, scraping down the sides if needed. Pour batter over cherries. Bake for 40 minutes until batter is set and golden brown. Let cool before serving. Dust over with confectioners' sugar. Yield: 6 servings.

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Grilled Skirt Steak with Chimichurri Sauce

June 17, 2010

grilled skirt steak

Grilling, the most primal cooking method, is revered as summer sport by men everywhere. It's practically religion in one country, Argentina. This multicultural nation with a unique blend of nationalities, traditions, and customs can only have a renowned food culture. Known for tango, football, and Eva Perón among many other things, Argentina consumes the most beef worldwide and is the third largest importer. Argentinians pretty much grill anything to great effect. Steakhouses, called churrascaria, throughout the cities serve up meats straight from their spits and are sliced right at the customer's table. I can't imagine a better way to enjoy steak.

A popular cut of beef in the traditional asado (barbecue) is skirt steak, a grainy cut from the underside of the animal. In the States it's considered a cheap cut, but there is no more flavorful steak than skirt. It's appreciated throughout Latin America, especially in Argentina, Brazil, and in Mexico where it is commonly used in fajitas. Grill it just until medium-rare, it becomes tough past medium. What goes better with steak than a potent sauce? Argentina's answer to steak sauce is chimichurri, a concoction of fresh herbs, garlic, oil, and vinegar. No one really knows how the sauce got its name, but it's the most popular condiment for all things grilled. Use it also as a marinade. I can't think of a better pairing than steak with chimichurri this coming father's day.

Grilled Skirt Steak

1-1/2 pounds skirt steak
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
chimichurri sauce, recipe follows

Preheat gas grill or grill pan to high.

Trim any fat or membrane from steak. Cut steak into two or three manageable lengths.

In a small bowl, combine oil and paprika. Brush steak with mixture. Liberally season with salt and pepper.

Grill 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. Rest for 5 minutes.

Once ready to serve, slice steak diagonally against the grain. Pile slices on a platter and drizzle over with spoonfuls of chimichurri. Serve additional sauce on the side. Yield: 4 hearty servings.

Chimichurri Sauce

Note: I prefer using a mortar and pestle to make my chimichurri. The sauce is more flavorful when it is made by hand. Alternatively use a food processor.

3 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 cup finely chopped parsley (about 1 bunch)
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
1/2 cup olive oil
1/3 cup red-wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika

In a large mortar, mash garlic together with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes. Add parsley and cilantro; mash until herbs release their aromas and essential oils. Stir in oil, vinegar, and paprika. Keep at room temperature until ready to serve. Leftover sauce should be refrigerated and lasts for a few weeks. Bring back to room temperature to serve. Yield: 1-1/2 cups.

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Eton Mess

June 16, 2010

Eton Mess

If you've ever had a meringue, then you know how ethereal it can be. But combine it with cream and ripe strawberries and you have an exquisite dessert. Eton Mess takes these ingredients and jumbles them together in a mess, hence the name. The dessert hails from England's famous Eton College. As the story goes, it was either created by cheeky boys who mixed all their desserts together—and one day it happened to be strawberries, cream, and meringue—or it was invented by a crafty shopkeeper at the local food shop. However the dessert was founded, I'm glad it was invented in the first place.

I'm a big sucker for desserts with whipped cream and I'm a big fan of British desserts like trifle, so Eton Mess is easy for me to adore. The traditional way of making this "mess" is to mix all the ingredients together, but I like to layer the dessert so you can see the berries through the glass. I also tend to use more cream than other recipes specify, making this a very plush dessert. There's nothing like billowy clouds of cream enveloping crunchy cookie bits and sweet, mushy berries in this easiest and most pleasing of desserts.

Eton Mess

After the haul of strawberries I made last week from Jones' Farm, I had to find a way to eat my surplus. Eton Mess was the first idea that came to mind. It really takes no time at all to put together and it disappears in just a few minutes too. I add sugar to the berries to lend sweetness and help bring out the natural liquid. I also add a bit of vinegar, which is an Italian trick that works extremely well in heightening the berry flavor. For the assembly, I highly suggest using store-bought meringues. I can make meringues just as fine as the next baker, but I won't try making them in humid whether. They simply won't turn out well. And don't use whipped cream in the can. It will not hold up in this dessert. Whipping your own cream is the best option and it tastes much better in the end.

Eton Mess

1 pound strawberries, hulled and sliced
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons white balsamic vinegar
2 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
6 store-bought meringues
mint sprigs, for garnish

Combine strawberries, granulated sugar, and vinegar in a mixing bowl. Let macerate for 5 to 10 minutes.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, begin beating the heavy cream. Add the vanilla and gradually add the confectioners' sugar. Beat until soft peaks form.

Crumble 5 meringues and fold them into the whipped cream. Fold almost all the strawberries into the whipped cream, holding back about 1/2 cup. Mix just so the strawberry liquid streaks through the cream.

Fill 4 parfait glasses with the mixture. Layer in some remaining strawberries and top with the strawberries. Crumble the remaining meringue and top each glass with the crumbs. Garnish with mint sprigs. Serve immediately. Yield: 4 servings.

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Strawberry Fields Forever

June 14, 2010

strawberry

As far back as I can remember, every June my family would make our annual pilgrimage to Jones' Farm to pick bright red juicy strawberries. If we didn't leave with a heaping boxful then we didn't do our jobs. But as a kid I would always end up picking more for myself than for the box, eating every other berry and leaving with the tell-tale signs on my hands and face. I was just as guilty as the next kid, so actually I didn't feel that bad. Now as an adult I typically taste only one and try to keep myself from eating any more. I'm really just saving up for gorging on them in the privacy of my own home.

strawberry fields

You really have to love strawberries to pick them yourself. After all that bending and picking, it's easy for a person to get tired. I must love them so much, because last week on a sunny yet breezy Monday morning, with the help of my mom, I picked 13 pounds of strawberries. But aren't strawberries easy to love? I don't think I know anyone who doesn't adore them. They're so sweet and mushy once you eat them. It's one of the most favorite flavors in ice cream and candy. Even lotions and some cosmetics are flavored with strawberries. That just shows you how extremely popular the flavor actually is.

I've always been curious about strawberries and why they are named straw-berries to begin with. It has to do with the way they're planted—in rows with straw underneath the bushes to slow the fruit rotting. Strawberries are unique in that the fruits are actually the tiny seeds on the outside. What we think of as the berry is just an airy pod that holds the tiny fruits. The strawberries that we enjoy today are mostly hybrids from wild European types, South American berries, and indigenous American ones. Some say strawberries have a slight pineapple taste or a red grape taste, but to me a strawberry is indescribably flavorful in its own right.

strawberry box

When picking strawberries, make sure to lift the leaves from the plant and set your sights on the most beautiful fruit that you can pick. Strawberries will not ripen after being picked, so choose the reddest ones. Pinch at the stem, and remove the berry with the leaves intact. They last longer that way. Store them in a cool, dry place, but eat them as fast as you can because they won't last longer than a few days. After that it's time to use them in a tart or jam. You can also freeze strawberries: simply wash and hull them, freeze on trays, and then add to a resealable plastic bag.

Jones' Family Farms has been growing strawberries for more than 40 years. Plantings were initially brought from California. Here in Connecticut, strawberries are in season from June into July. Typically the season lasts for about a month. This year the season arrived a few weeks early. And because of all the recent rain the strawberries are not as sweet, but are still highly enjoyable. (Call the hotline to find out which farm is offering strawberry picking on the day of your visit.) Strawberries are among the farm's most popular crops, but they also offer blueberries, which come late in the summer season. In October the farm has Halloween pumpkins. More recently the farm has added a winery. But their largest crop has always been Christmas trees.

Jones Family Farms
Valley Farm
555 Walnut Tree Hill Road
Shelton, CT 06484
Pumpkin Seed Hill Farm
120 Beardsley Road
Shelton, CT 06484
203-929-8425
Open daily, Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and Sundays from 8 a.m. to 12 p.m.

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Dilled Cheese Tart

June 10, 2010

dilled cheese tart

Most people know dill as an ingredient in their favorite pickles. But dill can be used much more interestingly than that. Believed to have originated in eastern Europe and western Asia, dill even dates back to ancient Egyptian times. The very fragrant and earthy herb is still used in many cuisines throughout Europe and Asia. It is often found in vegetable side dishes and in sauces for seafood. It is probably most well known in the Scandinavian cured salmon dish, gravlax. In Hungary it is even made into desserts. One of my favorites is a tart my mom baked often when I was a kid, a cheesecake that is flavored with dill.

Dill has notes of citrus, pine, and is often described as sweet. It makes a unique addition to this sweet cheese tart. I begin with a traditional pie crust that includes a bit of sour cream and wine for tenderness. Some Hungarian recipes call for a risen bread-like crust, but I prefer a buttery and flaky crust. The cheese filling is typically made with a small curd cheese like farmer cheese or ricotta. I drain the cheese overnight and discard the watery whey to prevent the finished tart from weeping. The filling is rich and creamy and speckled with green dill. Once it's baked, it almost looks like bleu cheese or veiny marble. You will be surprised at how well savory dill and sweet cheese work together.

Dilled Cheese Tart

2 pounds whole-milk ricotta
1 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, separated
1 large egg white (leftover from tart crust)
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh dill
tart crust, recipe follows

Drain ricotta in a sieve lined with cheesecloth overnight. Discard the whey.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Turn ricotta out into a mixing bowl. Add sugar, salt, vanilla, and egg yolks. Mix thoroughly to combine. Fold in dill.

Meanwhile, using a hand mixer, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the cheese mixture just until combined. Pour into the chilled tart crust.

Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees F. Bake tart for 50 to 60 minutes or until edges are golden brown but center still jiggles slightly. Let cool completely for an hour. Transfer to a refrigerator and let cool overnight. Yield: 8 squares.

Tart Crust

1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup (1-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk
1 tablespoon sour cream
1 tablespoon dry white wine

In a large bowl, combine flour and salt. Add butter and work with a pastry blender until mixture resembles course meal.

Combine egg yolk, sour cream, and wine in a small bowl or measuring cup. Whisk together until well blended. Pour into dry ingredients and mix until dough comes together. Form the dough into a flat disc and wrap in plastic. Chill for at least 1 hour before rolling.

Roll out dough on a well floured work surface to fit a 7-by-11-inch fluted tart pan. Carefully lay dough over pan. Press dough into the corners. Remove excess dough by running rolling pin over pan. Fill any holes or cracks with excess dough.

Chill shell for 10 minutes.

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Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Chicken Tenders with Dilled Fingerling Potato Salad

June 7, 2010

fried chicken

Two of my absolute favorite foods are fried chicken and potato salad. There's something so unabashedly comforting about these foods that I am not ashamed to admit they're my favorite. I love them maybe because my mom would make them every year on my birthday or because it's simple and unassuming to prepare. And who doesn't love fried chicken and potato salad? Just the word fried is enough to make anybody like it. And creamy potato salad with the traditional mayo and eggs is always a crowd pleaser. It's typical summer picnic food in an old-fashioned way. Lucky my birthday is in July.

For me summer wouldn't be complete without these two classics. But there's nothing wrong with updating mom's recipes. I take traditional fried chicken and give it a healthy modern and slightly Southern twist. Dare I say it: I like skinless fried chicken! I use chicken tenders that I bread in the usual flour, eggs, and breadcrumbs but add cornmeal for an extra crispy crust. The potato salad: I like a runny, creamy, tart, and sweet dressing. In addition to chopped eggs, I also add crumbled bacon. Eggs and bacon go hand in hand after all. And finally give it a Scandinavian twist with chopped dill, which adds brightness. It's irresistible flavor will have your friends coming back for more. Get ready summer, Here I come!

Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Chicken Tenders

2-1/2 pounds chicken tenders or 2 boneless, skinless breasts cut into strips
fine sea salt
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon paprika
2 large eggs
3/4 cup breadcrumbs
1/4 cup yellow cornmeal
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
canola oil, for frying

Liberally season chicken breasts with salt. Set on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes to allow for chicken to absorb salt.

Prepare a station for coating the chicken. Combine flour and paprika on a plate. In a bowl, lightly beat the eggs. Combine breadcrumbs, cornmeal, and pepper on a second plate. Coat each strip first with flour mixture. Then dip one by one into the eggs. Finally coat the strips with the breadcrumb-cornmeal mixture, making sure to press the chicken into the mixture to coat all around.

Warm 1/2 inch of oil in a large saute pan set over medium-high heat. Once oil reaches sizzling point, add the chicken strips. Fry until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove to a plate lined with paper towels. Yield: 4 servings.

Dilled Fingerling Potato Salad

2 pounds fingerling potatoes
3 large eggs
3 strips bacon
1/4 cup finely chopped dill
1/4 cup finely chopped chives
3 tablespoons sour cream
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons malt vinegar
2 tablespoons lemon juice (about 1/2 lemon)
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Add potatoes to a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and reduce to a medium simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and let cool slightly. Slice potatoes in halves or quarters, depending on size.

Prepare eggs at the same time. Add eggs to a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, cover, and shut off heat. Let sit for 15 minutes. Rinse under cold water. Peel and chop fine.

In a skillet set over medium-high heat, cook bacon until all fat has rendered and bacon is crisp. Alternatively, place bacon on a plate and cover with a paper towel. Microwave on high for 4 minutes. Let cool slightly and chop fine.

Combine potatoes, eggs, bacon, dill, and chives in a large bowl.

In a measuring cup or small bowl, whisk together sour cream, mayonnaise, vinegar, lemon juice, maple syrup, salt, and pepper. Pour over potatoes. Toss to combine. Check seasoning. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. Yield: 4 servings.

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Grilled Chile-Lime Marinated Shrimp with Mango Salsa

June 3, 2010



Spicy and tropical flavors always transport my imagination to lush jungles or azure beaches belonging to more temperate climates. Mexican food in particular has that effect on me. At home whenever I want to add a south-of-the-border touch to recipes I reach for dried chiles. Ancho chile powder, made of ground dried poblano peppers, lends a smoky and earthy flavor to recipes (think of the many famous mole sauces). Combine it with lime juice and oil and you have the perfect Mex-like marinade for meat or fish. In this case it's shrimp, briefly marinated and then grilled. Paired with a fresh salsa, it's a summery dish that serves well as a quick appetizer when friends stop by.

The grilled shrimp is spicy and savory whereas the mango salsa is sweet and tangy. It may sound a bit unusual to have fruit in a salsa, but it's not uncommon in Mexico and the Caribbean. Fruits indigenous to these areas are utilized in many different ways in recipe preparations. Pineapple, papaya, or guava are also commonly used in salsa frescas. Once combined with savory elements and herbs, such as onions and cilantro, and lime juice to add acidity, the salsa becomes a wonderful condiment, especially for seafood. Use it as a topping for any seared or grilled fish. This dish truly brings to mind Mexico and its unique culinary heritage. Its flavors will have you there in no time.

Grilled Chile-Lime Marinated Shrimp with Mango Salsa

for the shrimp:
3/4 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
8 bamboo skewers, soaked in water
2 tablespoons lime juice (about 1 lime)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon ancho chile powder
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

for the mango salsa:
1 large firm mango, peeled, pitted, and diced
1/2 red onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped
1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped
2 tablespoons lime juice (about 1 lime)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

for grilling and serving:
canola oil, for grilling
lime wedges, for serving

Thread 2 to 3 shrimp per skewer and place in a baking dish. Add lime juice and olive oil. Sprinkle with chile powder, salt, and pepper. Marinate for 15 to 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Meanwhile, make the salsa. Combine mango, onion, cilantro, and jalapeño in a bowl. Dress with lime juice and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Toss to combine. Chill until ready to serve.

Preheat a grill or grill pan at medium-high to high heat. Once grill is hot, moisten a paper towel with canola oil and wipe down grates.

Remove shrimp skewers from marinade and place on grill. Discard marinade. Grill 2 to 3 minutes per side. Serve immediately with mango salsa and wedges of lime. Yield: 4 appetizer servings.

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Tabbouleh

June 1, 2010

tabbouleh

Summer is nearly here. For many Memorial Day weekend marked the beginning of summer with barbecues and backyard parties. And with the hot weather that we on the East coast are already having, it's easy to start entertaining like it's summer. I found myself pulling out the grill for the first time yesterday, and it couldn't have happened any sooner. My oven will be on hiatus for the next few months. Right now with the availability of fresh spring salad greens and herbs in farmers' markets, I find myself creating recipes that require little or no cooking. I'm taking every opportunity to use garden-fresh produce, especially herbs.

One in particular is my favorite as well as the most utilized herb of many cuisines. Parsley, what would Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cooking be without it? You might only know parsley as a sprig of green that garnishes food. But one of the best uses for parsley as a main ingredient is the popular Lebanese dish of tabbouleh. Served in many Mediterranean restaurants and even supermarket salad bars, it's no stranger to American palates. It's a refreshing salad typically served alongside Middle Eastern appetizers called mezze. It can also be very versatile, making a great summer salad to eat with grilled meats.

The ingredients in tabbouleh are always the same: lots of parsley, some mint, scallions, cucumber, tomato, and bulgur. It's all tossed in lemon juice and olive oil. It's fruity, peppery, and very fresh. It's simple and relatively quick to put together. Plus there is no cooking required as it's all assembly. Once made it can be served right away or chilled. Eat it alone, as a side, or throw a mezze party for friends and include hummus, dolma, baba ghanouj, and pita among many other dips and salads. This summer there can be nothing better than refreshing foods to cool you down.

Tabbouleh

1 cup bulgur
2 bunches parsley, leaves coarsely chopped, stems finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped mint leaves
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced diagonally
1 long cucumber, peeled,seeded, and diced
1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
1/4 cup lemon juice (about 1 lemon)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Soak bulgur in 1-1/2 cups boiling water for 1 hour.

Combine bulgur with parsley, mint, scallions, cucumber, and tomatoes; toss to combine. Dress with lemon juice and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Toss to combine. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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