Blue Duck Tavern

Blue Duck Tavern, located in the Hyatt Hotel in the West End area of Washington, DC, is considered to be one of the area’s most popular restaurants. On my last day in DC, I had the opportunity to enjoy brunch there with my group of journalists with Destination DC. The dark, massive, and almost temple-like doors are the first thing you notice as you approach the entrance. It felt like I was entering a mighty temple of food. The interior is very contemporary with rustic touches. The aesthetic is dark, brooding, and masculine. Some objects, such as the chairs and quilts adorning the walls, appear to be early American. In the open kitchen, now and then you might catch a glimpse of chef Brian McBride. The open-kitchen concept was designed by New York architect Tony Chi.

The kitchen is the star. It’s kept impeccably clean and organized with all prep completed in the early morning. The focal points are the wood-burning oven and custom-made Italian Molteni stove. A large wine room, stocked with hundreds of bottles, is just to the side. Sleek marble clads the service counters, blurring the lines between dining room and preparation area. Just walking to one's table, you don’t know which way is in or out of the way. But it feels unique to be so close to where the food is made. The menu goes one step further, naming locations from where the restaurant sources the ingredients. It’s quite fun to know my breakfast eggs came from Crazy Chicks, Pa.

We began our meal with what else but cocktails. The restaurant offers twists on classic cocktails. One such twist was the pear and basil Collins that I ordered. The sweet pear and perfumed basil complement one another quite well in this rum concoction. Other drinks of interest include a peach sangria, the traditional bellini, and a few mocktails. As we waited for our main breakfast, we were presented with an order of croissants with preserves, honey, and ricotta. The croissants were crisp and fluffy, perfect with my personal pot of coffee. The bread with butter was also scrumptious. A few of us ordered appetizers such as crab cakes or oysters with mignonette sauce. With all the food that was to come our way I decided against ordering any starter, though I was tempted.

I was craving eggs that morning so for my breakfast I ordered the salt cod cakes with sunnyside eggs and spicy buttermilk sauce. The cakes had nice texture, but were quite salty, though they were redeemed by the spicy tangy sauce. But what I enjoyed more was my sourdough pancake with dried cherries. Though I hardly found a cherry, I did like the cakey texture of the oven-baked pancake. I ate it without even realizing I had not poured it over with the warmed maple syrup provided. Others enjoyed a short rib hash, eggs Benedict, a very excellent looking bacon and onion quiche, and Belgian waffles, which looked amazing, dressed in huckleberry preserves. They were almost as authentic as the waffles we had at Belga Café the night before. The triple-fried fries are one of the specialties of the restaurant and are fried in duck fat in the final round. These were some very thick hand-cut fries, plank-like in shape. They were fluffy on the inside and crisp on the outside, though I did not get that hint of duck fat I was hoping for, but they were still good enough to eat.

Many of us were quite full to the brim at this point and more than ready to leave. In fact one of us had to leave to make her flight. Our napkins were already tossed on the table, but before we could even get up, the servers presented us with the entire dessert menu. First was the restaurant's famous apple pie. Supposedly the recipe is legendary because it took countless tries before it was deemed perfect. It was in fact perfectly crusty with a superb filling. It was a simple as simple gets, but simply amazing. Next we had the key lime pie with blueberry sauce. It was everything you could ever want in a key lime pie, tart and sweet. Next was the mascarpone cream in a pool of cherry soup. It tasted much like a cheesecake. We also had a very homey blackberry and nectarine crumble, peach sorbet, and a raspberry-oreo sorbet, which was a very unique combo, one that I expected not to work, but it did.

As we hurriedly left to make our trains and planes, I could not help but stare at the preparations going on in the open kitchen. Food is laid out on the counters with heat lamps overhead. Servers are gathered and ready to take dishes out to anxious patrons. I loved also seeing baskets of produce on display. It really shows the restaurant’s dedication to local, fresh, and high-quality ingredients. The basket of variously colored heirloom tomatoes looked especially beautiful. One counter was full of freshly baked apple pies at the ready for ordering customers. I wish I could have taken one home for the train ride; they just looked so perfect and puck-shaped.

Blue Duck Tavern was truly a fantastic experience. I would definitely go back again for brunch, lunch, or dinner. The service was excellent and very attentive. The food was top of the line. And just watching the kitchen action was the most interesting. Mind you this is not some reality show like Hell’s Kitchen, but a very methodically and meditatively run kitchen. The best way to describe it is as a well-running clock.

Blue Duck Tavern
1201 24th Street Northwest
Washington, DC 20037
202-419-6755
Open daily, Monday through Friday, for breakfast, 6:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m.; lunch, 11:30am to 2:30 p.m.; weekend brunch, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; and dinner, 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

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Valencian Noodle Paella or Fideuà

Whenever I watch a travel show about Spain, I always stumble upon a special episode on Valencia. It's the third-largest city in Spain and is located on the eastern coast, forming part of the Costa del Azahar. Of the many things it is famous for, paella is number one. It is practically the national dish of Spain. I've had many paellas before and recently had one at José Andrés' restaurant Jaleo. I've always wanted to make one and finally took it upon myself to prepare one al fresco, much like the Spanish do. Typically the women prepare the ingredients and the men cook the paella. It's a great way to get everyone to participate.

Traditional paella is made with meat (rabbit, duck, or chicken) and snails, but seafood paella, which is a specialty of the coastal area, is now more popular. Paella is always made with bomba rice, a short-grain rice much like Italian arborio. It absorbs more liquid and has more starch than long-grain rice. Fideuà is made with noodles, thin angel-hair pasta, and a mix of fish and shellfish. Any type of paella is a wonderful dish to make for a large outdoor gathering with family and friends, because it sure does feed a crowd. I can't imagine a more perfect meal for an end-of-summer party this upcoming Labor Day.



Here I make an all shellfish fideuà with clams, mussels, shrimp, and squid. I like the little wriggly broken-up capellini pasta more than rice. Just as with rice, the pasta develops the soccarat, the almost-burned crust on the bottom of the pan, which is prized in Spain. Whoever scrapes up the bottom first is paella king. Keep in mind that each shellfish cooks differently. So when placing the shellfish in the pan, start with the clams, then the mussels, shrimp, and finally the squid. The shells open when they are done. The shrimp and squid are cooked once they turn opaque.

In Spain, paella is made outdoors over an open fire in pans that can feed an army. The best way to replicate the traditional cooking method is to use either a gas grill or a barbecue. I purchased a mid-size paellera to make this dish. (In Spanish paella translates to pan. The pan used to make the dish is called a paellera.) In a pinch, use a large flat-bottomed skillet or sauté pan (not non-stick), but most likely you will have to cut down the recipe. The key is having a good pan and powerful heat. Besides that it's simply using really fresh ingredients and making it with love.

Valencian Noodle Paella or Fideuà

1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 pound Spanish chorizo sausage, diced
sea salt
freshly ground pepper
1 Spanish onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 pound capellini, broken into 1-inch pieces
1 cup white wine
2 cups clam juice
2 cups chicken broth
1 medium to large tomato, seeded, diced, liquid reserved
large pinch saffron threads
1 dozen littleneck clams, scrubbed and soaked in water
1 dozen mussels, scrubbed and soaked in water
1 pound extra-large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 pound small squid, cleaned and sliced into rings
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley, for garnish
lemon wedges, for serving

Preheat a grill at medium-high heat. Set 15-inch paellera over grates. Add oil and chorizo, sauté until brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve.

Add onion and garlic, sauté for 3 to 4 minutes until translucent. Add the pasta, tossing and turning until toasted, about 5 minutes. Color will turn opaque and nutty brown.

Add wine, clam juice, broth, and tomato with its juices. Crumble in saffron threads. Add chorizo and stir to combine. Press down pasta and chorizo so that it is just covered by the liquid. Simmer for 8 to 10 minutes.

Once most of the liquid has absorbed and only a few puddles remain, nestle in clams, mussels, and shrimp. Continue to simmer for 8 to 10 minutes without stirring. A gentle shake of the pan now and then is fine. Nestle the squid rings among the shells. Cook until the pasta is al dente and the shells are open and the shrimp and squid are opaque.

Turn heat up to high for last minute to develop the bottom crust, soccarat. Remove from heat and let rest for 5 minutes. Garnish with parsley and lemon wedges. Serve immediately. Yield: 8 servings.

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Art & Soul

Art & Soul, located just inside the Liaison Capitol Hill Hotel in Washington, DC, is Chef Art Smith's first restaurant in DC. Chef Smith, better known as Oprah Winfrey's former personal chef, opened this new restaurant as the first Southern restaurant in the nation's capitol, serving the gamut of traditional but modernized comfort food. The space—indoors and out—really lends itself to gatherings and parties. Bold touches of red throughout as well as basic black accentuate the sophisticated atmosphere. I think it helps show off the traditional Southern food in an even more modern light.

While I was in DC with Destination DC, I had the pleasure of staying at the Liaison Hotel and dining at Art & Soul on my first night. I was joined by two other bloggers, Cathy from Gastronomy Blog and Olga from Mango Tomato, as well as writers from other parts of the country. The best and most surprising part was that Art Smith himself was there to have dinner with us. It was truly an experience to be savored and remembered.

Our evening began with Southernized hors d'ouevres and cocktails. First luscious and creamy fried mac 'n cheese balls. Then small hoecakes with smoked salmon and caviar. Fried chicken with gravy that were served between bite-size biscuits came next. Finally seared tuna atop a fried green tomato with green tomato relish. I never imagined Southern food could work as such elegant finger food. The salmon hoecakes were my favorite. I've never even heard of a hoecake before, but the mini pancakes had such great texture and worked well as a vehicle for the salmon.

The cocktail menu looked very good. I could hardly make my choice. I ended up choosing the Potomac's Dawn. Since the Potomac is the name of the river nearby, I figured why not try a locally inspired drink? It was made of mango, tequila, and rimmed in chile pepper. Other drinks on the menu included the very popular snow cone cocktails, which are basically glasses of shaved ice with the cocktail poured over, pretty fun.

As we waited for our food to arrive, Chef Smith presided over the dinner table, sharing stories about his travels. It was very easy to have a lively conversation with Chef Smith. He is a very humble and fun host. For starters I ordered the traditional Southern favorite of shrimp 'n grits, which I've never had but always have wanted to try. The shrimp was nicely grilled and came with a coarse grits, bacon, and chow-chow relish. I was pretty pleased with the shrimp. And I surprisingly still had room for a main course.

For entrées, many ordered the crab three ways, which the Chef had highly recommended, but since I'm not a fan of soft shell crab, I ordered the crispy fried whole rockfish. I found it hilarious that the server asked "with or without the head?" I didn't bring my camera for nothing, so definitely I had to have it intact. The fish looked like a monster and with the dirty rice and andouille gumbo, it looked like it had emerged from a swamp. Even if it didn't look that great, the subtle flavor and tender flesh of the fish was wonderful. I massacred the monster in no time. Others had ordered the grilled grouper, scallops, salmon, or rib-eye, which all looked enticing.

Dessert soon followed and I could hardly wait. I have a sweet tooth and as we know Southern desserts are some of the sweetest, so I was hoping for the classics. And the classics was what we got. First came the Bourbon pecan pie, which turned out to be the airiest and least dense version I've ever had. I was in love. My other favorite was the chocolate terrine, a cake that had everything right going for it. We also had a terrific cheesecake, cinnamon bun pie, and a selection of baby cupcakes that included the famous hummingbird cake, which as the Chef said is so called because it's so good that it makes you hum. Southerners are known for their cakes and a mini red velvet cake, for which I have soft spot, was also among the babycakes.

I could not have had a better first night in DC than my experience at Art & Soul. It was the perfect introduction to Southern food and hospitality. The restaurant is a great place to visit even if you are not staying at the Liaison Hotel. But if you are than you might also consider trying out the room service, which all comes from the restaurant. The breakfast menu features the chef's healthy favorites. If I'm back in town I might just stop by for some hoecakes and a slice of that terrific pecan pie.

Art & Soul
415 New Jersey Ave NW
Washington, DC 20001
202-393-7777
Open daily for dinner, Monday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., and until 11 p.m. from Friday through Saturday. Open daily for lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Open Saturday and Sunday for brunch, 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Appetizers range in price from $9 to $14, and entrées from $18 to $35.

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Tomatoes: The Fruits and Labors of My Love

I think just about everyone loves tomatoes. Every time I mention to someone that I grow tomatoes in my garden they immediately turn a little green with envy. Tomatoes are really a labor of love. Some years the bounty is great and in others you're lucky to pick just a few. Last year there was the blight and this summer it's blossom end rot due to the extreme variations in heat. Luckily my tomatoes haven't been affected by that but since I am growing them organically, I do often find a critter who has made a home inside one of my prized possessions. I guess that just shows I'm not the only one who loves them.

This year I'm growing heirlooms for the first time. I collected seeds from my favorite specimens last year to grow this crop. All plants were babied from seed. They all seem to be doing well, but heirlooms have their own peculiarities including odd shapes, split skins, and areas with russeting or blemishes. Nut I would rather tend to them than grow the supermarket hybrids, which tend to look more like plastic. Though I do like a beefsteak tomato now and then. I don't even bother growing plum tomatoes because I can't get them any better than the canned San Marzano variety from Italy, where the weather and terroir is optimal for growing them. But so far my soil has given me a pretty nice colorful collection.



I cannot imagine summer without tomatoes. The juiciness, sweetness, and acidity all culminate in one delicious vegetable or fruit? Botanists define fruit as ovaries bearing the seeds of flowering plants. So, yes, tomatoes are fruits. That's even if we almost always enjoy them in savory applications, they are after all sweet and juicy, much more like a fruit than say a turnip? By U.S. law though, they are considered vegetables due to a decision to impose a duty on vegetables in 1893 when the Supreme Court decided to include tomatoes in that tariff. So tomatoes are officially vegetables in this country. Maybe that's why the USDA considers ketchup a vegetable along with French fries for balanced school lunches.

In Europe tomatoes are considered fruits. And they have been a pretty popular fruit since the 16th century when they first showed up on ships coming back from the Americas. Tomatoes originally came from the New World, specifically South America. Corn, peppers, and potatoes also originated from the Americas. These vegetables made it to the Old World as a result of Spanish exploration. At first many thought tomatoes were poisonous, which is what they thought of the entire nightshade family, which tomatoes and eggplant belong to. It took a while for them to be eaten and enjoyed in cooking.

Tomatoes were already being enjoyed in Spain, but in France it took some clever marketing to make them sell. A clever marketing guru originally coined tomatoes pommes d'amour or apples of love, claiming that the fruit was an aphrodisiac. I guess so. After all they're mostly blood red and juicy. A fruit to excite deep-seated lust and passion? Eventually tomatoes spread to Italy and sauce was born. But can you imagine if tomatoes didn't make it to the Old World? What we would do without tomato sauce? Our pizzas and pastas would be vastly different.

So thank goodness for tomatoes. Our world cuisines would never be so good without them. And our summers could never be so enjoyable without juicy tomatoes freshly picked from the vine. That is all I need to enjoy them. Or if I'm in the mood a little salt and olive oil drizzled on some thinly sliced red fruit. How do you like to enjoy your tomatoes. Share your ideas, recipes, or gardening tips in the comments below.

This summer I'm participating in A Way to Garden's Third Annual Summer Fest. Every Wednesday a summer produce will be the theme. This Wednesday it's tomatoes. To participate all you have to do is something as simple as leaving a comment or linking to a favorite blog post or informational site. You can share gardening tips, recipes, and/or pictures. Visit the Summer Fest link for more information. Many other blogs are participating and it would be great to see how far the conversation goes.

My favorite recipes using tomatoes:
Panzanella Bread Salad with Summer Corn and Heirloom Tomatoes
Gazpacho
Heirloom Tomato Salad
Cherry Tomato salad

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A Gastronomical Tour of José Andrés' Restaurants

When you think of tapas and molecular cuisine, the name José Andrés is not far behind. He has been a proponent of both Spanish cuisine and experimental cooking in this country for many years. I'm a big fan of Chef Andrés, a protégé of the famed molecular chef Ferran Adrià, and a king of cuisine in his own right. Anyone who has seen Chef Andrés on his PBS show Made in Spain is familiar with his engaging personality and desire to show the food and culture of his native Spain. Chef Andrés has been lauded and awarded many times over. He won the best chef Mid-Atlantic award from the James Beard Foundation in 2003 and has since taken off. In addition to his restaurants in Washington, DC, he also has Bazaar in Los Angeles and this winter will open two restaurants in Las Vegas.

I was overjoyed when I found out I'd be eating at all of Chef Andrés' restaurants in Washington, DC on my July press trip, which was arranged by Destination DC. Even if I didn't get to meet Chef Andrés, just eating from morning until afternoon at all his restaurants was very memorable. Our goal was to slowly eat our way through all four of his restaurant locations. First, cocktails and appetizers at Café Atlántico with its Nuevo Latino cuisine, Mexican food at Oyamel, Spanish food at Jaleo, and finally Middle Eastern desserts at Zaytinya. Half way through the eating marathon I wasn't sure where I was going to put all the food that remained to be eaten, but as the end neared, somehow I had pleasurably eaten everything and even found room for four desserts.

Café Atlántico is considered Andrés’ main restaurant. It serves Nuevo Latino cuisine, dishes inspired by Central and South American cooking. The three-level restaurant also houses minibar, a six-seat molecular cuisine concept bar. Reservations here are almost impossible to come by. Our group sat right across from the bar and imagined what it would be like to have a full tasting course there. Luckily we were offered a treat from minibar, a perfect olive. It's really a deconstructed olive made from olive purée and then spherified in a solution. You must love olives to enjoy this dish, because it's the essence of olives multiplied times ten. I loved it. I also ordered a cocktail since many at our table were having them—mind you this was 11:30 a.m. I thoroughly enjoyed the farm-to-table cocktail, which is made of ingredients that were of particular interest at the farmers' market that morning. That day it was made with watermelon juice, basil simple syrup, and rum and was garnished with salted diced watermelon. Soon followed a shot glass of carrot soup with passion fruit oil. It was super smooth, sweet, and nicely chilled. Next came a dish that I still think about, tuna tartare with jicama and coconut milk topped with sliced avocado, corn nuts, and micro cilantro. Tuna tartare seemed to be the theme of the week while I was in DC, but this was by far my favorite. We finished our time there with a conch fritter that had a béchamel inside rather than out. It was paired with an avocado mousse encapsulated in a mandolined slice of jicama. Some forethought went into making the dish so special.

Our gastronomical tour continued at Oyamel, Andrés’ homage to Mexican cuisine. The restaurant is a very convivial space with tropical touches. The first things you notice are the butterflies on the ceiling and the fruit stacked up at the bar. It so happened that the restaurant was participating in the squash blossom festival, as a result many of our dishes featured them. Almost as soon as we sat down we were served margaritas, but not necessarily the traditional drink, but one with a molecular twist. The drink features a topping of salt-lime foam floating on the surface like a cloud. You couldn't drink it without getting a foam mustache. Next came guacamole prepared tableside, a custom at many Mexican restaurants. We also had house-made tortilla chips and smoky salsa of tomatoes and chipotle. For our starters we enjoyed a tomato salad with purslane, squash blossoms, and chicharrónes (pork rinds); and a squash blossom quesadilla topped with salsa verde. I loved both these dishes. Even with all the ingredients, the delicate taste of the squash blossoms was not masked. Before we knew it, each of us was presented with two tacos, first an asparagus and lamb's quarters (a type of green) taco with chipotle sauce and a second taco of braised beef tongue, radishes, and roasted chili sauce. I'm not a fan of tongue and after eating the taco was still not a fan of tongue, but I did appreciate the flavors. The asparagus taco was very refreshing and flavorful. Except for a few tough asparagus ends, it was the winner between the two tacos.

Jaleo, Andrés’ authentic Spanish restaurant, was our last stop before dessert. The restaurant from outside looks more like a 1950s diner with its red color scheme, neon sign, and vinyl bar stools than an authentic Spanish eatery. There are a few murals inside that help distinguish the space as a Spanish restaurant. We were no sooner treated to cava, the Spanish sparkling wine, when out came a platter of ham: Jamón Ibérico, including cured ham from black-footed pigs and smoked loin from acorn-fed pigs, and jamón Serrano, salt-cured ham. I really enjoyed the loin. Next came our Mediterranean paella with porcini mushrooms, olives, and shrimp. It was one of the most beautiful I've seen. The mushroom rice tasted too muddy for me and was missing the soccarat, the famous crust on the bottom of the pan. To accompany the paella we had a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon rosé from Bodegas 1+1=3. What an odd name for a wine, but what a wonderful dry and fruity cherry-tasting wine. I've never seen a rosé with such a ruby color.

Last but definitely not least was to be our desserts at Andrés’ Middle Eastern and Mediterranean restaurant, Zaytinya. The restaurant is located in a corporate building and has a very grandiose and open feeling with a large two-storey space. With white walls and modern furniture, the restaurant captures the clean lines and simplicity of Mediterranean architecture. We were seated on the second level from where we had a bird’s eye view of the main room below. We tasted all the desserts on the menu as well as a selection of sorbets and ice creams. First there was the chocolate vişne, a chocolate panna cotta with sour cherry sorbet. Next, the Turkish delight, walnut ice cream with honey gelée and caramel sauce. Then, the Greek yogurt with Muscat-soaked apricots and apricot sorbet. Finally there was the Turkish coffee chocolate cake with cardamom espuma. I also had a traditional Turkish coffee. Most memorable for me was the walnut ice cream with the Turkish delight as well as two additional ice creams served on the side, the baklava ice cream and olive oil ice cream, oddly very fruity and flavorful.

Any fan of Chef Andrés would be happy to visit one of his restaurants. I luckily had the opportunity to eat at four of them. And I'm very appreciative for that. It was an experience I won't soon forget. If I'm every in DC again, I will try to get a reservation at minibar. I highly recommend any of these restaurants. Oyamel and Jaleo are very authentic in showing of the cuisines of Mexico and Spain, respectively. Café Atlántico is a showplace for Chef Andrés to present his twists on Latin cuisine and his inventive experimental cuisine. Zaytinya blends the cuisines of Greece, Turkey, and Lebanon into one true Middle Eastern/Mediterranean experience minus the actual travel. Choose any of these restaurants for a special meal and you will engage in a world of cuisine imagined by the immensely talented José Andrés.

Cafe Atlantico and minibar
405 8th Street NW
Washington, DC 20004
202-393-0812

Oyamel Cocina Mexicana
401 7th Street NW
Washington, DC 20004
202-628-1005

Jaleo
480 7th Street NW
Washington, DC 20004
202-628-7949

Zaytinya
701 9th Street NW
Washington, DC 20001
202-638-0800

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White Peach Sherbet

If anyone asks what my favorite fruit is, I always answer peaches, but not just any peach. White peaches are my absolute favorite fruit. Besides eating peaches as they are, my other favorite ways to enjoy them are in desserts. I love this peach galette, a foolproof fruit tart recipe that I rely on every summer. But I also love to make sorbets, ice creams, and sherbets. What could be a better dessert than a cooling scoop or two? This summer it's white peach sherbet all the way.

Just think of the sherbets from when you were a kid and the ones available in the supermarket. Don't you ever wonder what those fluorescent colors are actually made of? They're hardly fruit. Though as a kid I too loved eating them, but not anymore. This recipe couldn't be easier. Sherbet is unlike ice cream in that the milk or cream is not cooked. In ice cream you almost always need to make a custard from eggs and milk and simmer it until thick. Sherbet is simply puréed fruit mixed with milk and then frozen.



Is there such a thing as the perfect peach? I think the first time I ever saw and tasted a white peach was when I was traveling through Hungary. My mom and I picked up some beautiful, huge white peaches at a market in Budapest. I remember them being the most juicy and tasty white peaches. Every one since just pales in comparison. But some come very close.

Every July and August my family tries to make a trip out to Silverman's Farm in Easton, Connecticut. The pick-your-own peaches are top quality, above and beyond any supermarket peach. I always eagerly await the white peaches, and this year much like last, they've come in a bit late in August. They're just starting to be picked at the farm. I was lucky to pick half a bagful this past weekend since so few were ripe. It's soon to be the best time to pick white peaches. The yellow peaches are practically overripe, so hurry now if you prefer them. Otherwise why not try a white peach? You might be surprised at how much more fragrant and sweet they are than the yellow ones.

White Peach Sherbet

Recipe adapted from Martha Stewart Living, August 2006.

Note: A touch of vodka helps form smoother ice crystals when the sherbet freezes, preventing grittiness.

2 pounds ripe white peaches, peeled, pitted, and sliced
2 tablespoons lemon juice (about 1 lemon)
3/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon vodka
1 cup whole milk

Combine peaches and lemon juice in a bowl to prevent browning. Add sugar and let macerate for 10 minutes. Purée with an immersion blender. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours.

Add vodka and milk, purée again to combine. Mixture should be smooth and frothy. Transfer to ice cream maker and churn for about 45 minutes, depending on the machine. Transfer to a large container, such as a loaf pan, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until hard, about 12 hours or overnight. Yield: 2 quarts.

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Belga Café

I've never before had Belgium food and I've never been to Belgium. As many times I have imagined going there, I've always wondered what the food would be like. Is it French, Flemish, or German? What really is Belgian food? Really it's all of the above. It's a melting pot of the best of western European cuisine with some very popular specialties. After eating Belgian cuisine in Washington, DC, I can say it's very hearty and immensely pleasureful. On my recent press trip to DC, I was invited to dine at Belga Café, a small Belgian restaurant that has been dishing out neighborhood favorites since 2004. Run by Belgian chef Bart Vandaele, the restaurant is a reflection of authentic Belgian fare, continental cuisine, and the chef's signature Eurofusion food, which comprises of a little bit of Europe and Asia.

That night the chef was on hand to create our five-course tasting menu with each course paired with Belgian beer. Just the night before I had enjoyed a beer-themed tasting menu at Birch & Barley. Would I be able to handle all beer again? I must mention that the restaruant has a menu offering more than 100 beers. Each beer is served in the appropriate glass, and many times the glass features the name of the beer. That's a lot of glasses—and beer—to have on hand for any size restaurant. Luckily we were seated by the open kitchen where we could watch the chef and his team in action. At one point there were four of use trying to capture a photo of Chef Vandaele, but he was almost too quick to catch on camera.

Before our first course even arrived, we were treated to a choice of beers, either a Stella Artois or Hoegaarden. I'm familiar with both beers—they're probably the most well-known Belgian beers here in the states. I chose a glass of Hoegaarden, which I haven't had in a long time. What more could you ask of a pale wheat beer than it be refreshing? And that's exactly what I like about it. Our first course arrived and it looked like such an art piece that I didn't know from which direction to begin. I decided upon left to right, first the traditional and very tiny Belgian gray shrimp tucked into a cherry tomato served with a frisée and seaweed salad and miso dressing, in the middle, a chilled avocado soup with crab meat, and on the right, a crab and chicken cigar with two dipping sauces. This presentation showed off the chef's Eurofusion angle. I especially loved the avocado soup. Avocado seemed to have been a theme during my stay in DC. I couldn't avoid being served it in one form or another at all the restaurants I visited.

For our second beer pairing, we were served the Goudon Carolus Hopsinjoor, a golden yellow beer with a noteworthy bitter taste, which I love. Soon after came a plate of gratineed mussels to be shared among our table. Even so I greedily managed to have my fill of my favorite bivalve. Note to self: must try broiling mussels at home. Next came a very light beer served in a tall tulip glass. It had one of the funniest names, Houblon La Chouffe, an unfiltered pale ale with a fruity taste. The beer is categorized as a tripel, which in Belgain and Dutch beer-making terminology denotes a strong pale ale. What I consider to be one of the most unique things I have ever eaten came next. It was a single rib that, as the chef explained, was braised first and then deep-fried. If I had to name one word to describe it: succulent. With that was a very nice house-made barbecue sauce and fried onions.

The next course included Rodenbach, a beer from the chef's hometown. I was surprised to smell cherries from this Flemish red ale. It had quite a sour or tart taste. The chef likened the beer to a French Bordeaux. I'm sure he took the red color and tart taste into account when he created the dish of seared scallop and escargot popover with red-wine reduction. Many of us were surprised to see red wine paired with scallops, but it worked wonderfully well. My favorite was the crispy hollow puff that revealed tender and garlicky escargot inside.

You can't go to a Belgian restaurant and not have a dish that the entire nation is most famous for and that is its beef stew and pommes frites. And they should not be called French fries, because in fact fried potatoes were invented in Belgium. These potatoes are characteristically fried twice. They thus become pillows with soft plush interiors and crunchy outer coats. At this point I was so full that I could barely touch my stew except for a few bites of sweet, tender beef. The beef was paired with Westmalle, a tripel originally brewed by Trappist monks. It has a golden color, with a fruity aroma of hops, and a slightly bitter taste. I really liked the fishbowl-like goblet the beer came in not to mention the beer itself. But I almost forgot that we still had dessert to follow, a course that would include the other foodstuff that Belgium is famous for, waffles.

Unfortunately I couldn't take a picture of the waffles because they were pretty much attacked by the time I got to try a piece. Let's just say they were fluffy and crispy and covered with a snowfall of powdered sugar. The chef presented us all with a different dessert. In front of me was placed a macerated fruit salad with sherbet. If only you could see the look on my face when I realized I hadn't gotten the waffles. The chef must have sensed it and next thing I knew he handed me a waffle. What was disappointment was quickly transformed to joy. Also nearby was the signature flourless chocolate cake, a lot like the famous molten cake. It's highly recommended for the chocolate lover. Also there was a crème brûlée trio, which included a perfect chocolate one. We ended the evening with three different flavors of Lambic: raspberry, apple, and black cherry. I loved them all, but the raspberry was my favorite with its amazingly realistic aroma.

When a restaurant like Belga Café, which has been around now for 6 years, still hustles and bustles, then you know it must be good. On my Saturday night there, the restaurant was full inside and out. And it's not hard to guess why. The restaurant is a neighborhood gem in the historical Barracks Row area of DC. Chef Vandaele chose well when he decided to open his restaurant in an area that had begun to see a revitalization. It certainly is now a fixture of the area and hopefully will continue to be a magnet for DC's foodies. I couldn't have had a better first experience with Belgian food and beer that at Belga Café.

Belga Café
514 8th Street SE
Washington, DC 20003
202-544-0100
Open daily for dinner, Monday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m., Friday through Saturday, 4 to 11 p.m., and Sunday, 4 to 9:30 p.m. Open daily for lunch, Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Friday from 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Open Saturday and Sunday for brunch, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Appetizers range in price from $8 to $14, and entrées from $20 to $27.

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Plum Cobbler

Cobbler, slump, or grunt; have you heard of these desserts? Most people can recognize a cobbler, a fruit dessert baked in a casserole with a dough topping but with no bottom crust. A slump or grunt is almost the same thing except that they are simmered on the stove, resulting in a steamed dumpling-like top. Supposedly one dessert is named after how the dumplings look (they slump) and the other after the sound the bubbling fruit makes (it grunts). All three are considered New England specialties dating back to Colonial times, when they would have been made in a cast-iron pan over a fire. Luckily we now have the luxury of using a stove or oven.

Many fruits make wonderful cobblers, slumps, or grunts. Apples are very well known in cobblers, but I like mine with stone fruit, especially peaches or plums. Nectarines and cherries, or a combination of all of the above would work extremely well too. Recently I picked up a few pints of very nice red plums at Sherwood Farm in Easton, CT. Lately they have become one of my favorite farm markets selling a little bit of every fruit and vegetable. When I saw those bright red plums, I immediately knew that I was going to make one of these simple and homey desserts.



I wasn't sure at first which one I would choose to create. I decided upon a cobbler, baked in the oven, because I prefer the dough topping to be more biscuit- or even scone-like. And plus I didn't want to get my stove covered in red spater. Instead of pouring a loose batter over the plums, I dollop spoonfuls of thick dough over the fruit, creating almost individual cobblers. Once baked and slightly cooled, it's easy to scoop the biscuits with the fruit into bowls. Then just serve with vanilla ice cream, which will slowly melt into the ruby red sauce of the plums. There's no better dessert than a luscious plum cobbler.



This summer I'm participating in A Way to Garden's Third Annual Summer Fest. Every Wednesday a summer produce will be the theme. This Wednesday it's stone fruit. To participate all you have to do is something as simple as leaving a comment or linking to a favorite blog post or informational site. You can share gardening tips, recipes, and/or pictures. Visit the Summer Fest link for more information. Many other blogs are participating and it would be great to see how far the conversation goes.

My favorite recipes using stone fruit:
Cherry Clafoutis
Peach Galette
Plum Flognarde
Sangria with Sparkling Wine and Stone Fruit

Plum Cobbler

2 pounds red plums, halved and pitted
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons Cognac or brandy
1 tablespoon potato or corn starch
1-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
1/3 cup whole milk
1 large egg, beaten

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Combine plums, 1/3 cup sugar, and Cognac in a large bowl. Let macerate for 10 minutes.

In a small cup, combine potato starch and 2 tablespoons of the plum liquid; stir until smooth. Pour back into bowl and stir to combine. Pour plums and all their liquid into a 10-inch glass pie dish.

In a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, 2 tablespoons sugar, and salt. Mix together with a whisk to aerate

Add butter and work with a pastry blender until mixture resembles course meal.

Make a well in the center. Add milk and egg. Mix until dough comes together. A little more milk can be added if mixture is too dry.

Spoon dollops of dough over the plums, making about 6 to 8 lumps. Place the dish on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips. Set in the oven and bake until plums are bubbling and top is light golden, about 45 minutes. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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A Tour of Little Ethiopia in Washington, DC

I've never tasted Ethiopian food until my trip to Washington, DC last month. It seems Ethiopian food has been on the pulse of the culinary world for quite some time. Just witness a recent episode of Top Chef where the contestants cook Ethiopian food for chef Marcus Sameulsson. I've always wanted to try Ethiopian food and I know New York has a good selection of Ethiopian restaurants, but somehow I was always scared of the fact that Ethiopian food requires you to eat with your hands. No utensils are used. Ethiopian food uses a spongy pancake-looking bread made from fermented teff flour called injera as its main utensil. You rip a piece of it and scoop up a mouthful of food. Many cultures eat food in this way. So it's not as unusual as you would think. After trying my first injera and eating almost properly with my hand, I've come to really appreciate the custom and enjoy the spicey flavors of this mystical East African country.

Little Ethiopia is the unofficial name for a section of the Shaw area of DC on 9th Street between T and U streets. The area was known for its African-American community, but since the 1968 riots the African-American population has slowly declined and the area has since become a magnet for Ethiopian businesses, which have revitalized the streets. In fact Washington, DC has the largest population of Ethiopians outside the country itself. Hundreds of businesses can be found in this small area. A separate Ethiopian phone book is even published to keep track of it all. Our group of writers/bloggers was treated to a tour of Little Ethiopia by DC Metro Food Tours, which offers all types of food walking tours of DC. Our Ethiopian tour included stops at three popular restaurants, where we had the opportunity to taste amazing traditional food and drink.

Our first stop was Zenebech Injera, a restaurant and injera supplier. Zenebech, the woman who owns and runs the restaurant, makes injera for most of DC's Ethiopian restaurants. She also cooks the authentic Ethiopian food. After watching Zenebech make injera on crepe-like griddles, we sat down to a large feast of Ethiopian specialties. Our first platter of food included vegetarian dishes of split pea and bean stews, potatoes, collards, beet and tomato salads, and the cottage-like cheese called lab. After that we tried both cooked and raw version of kitfo, which is minced beef flavored with spices. The raw version tasted much like steak tartare but spicier. Finally we had doro wot, the national dish of Ehipoia. It's a very flavorful stew of chicken and hard-boiled eggs and it uses the traditional spice mix berbere. Some of us also tried the honey wine called tej. the honey color and sweet floral taste totally reminded me of the Hungarian dessert wine Tokaj. Our time with Zenebech in the kitchen and our lovely meal was truly a nice introduction to Ethiopian cuisine.

Our tour continued on to Habesha Market and Carry-Out, where we enjoyed some traditional Ethiopian breakfast foods. The market sells injera made by Zenebech as well as spice mixes, teas, beans, legumes, grains, and of course food to eat-in or take-out. We tried lamb tibs, chunks of sauteed lamb; kinche, cracked wheat; foul, broad bean stew with scrambled egg and yogurt; and tripa, a stew of tripe and tongue. I liked them all but was most pleased with the foul, pronounced fool. The beans were so creamy and flavorful that I could have eaten the whole bowl. I went back to it again and again. Most of the group avoided the tripe and tongue stew for the obvious reasons. Its sauce was spicy and flavorful, but I've never really had either tripe or tongue, so I tried a small bite. Let me just say the textures of both are very spongy. I think I won' be eating it too soon. The kinche reminded me of bulgur in a Middle Eastern tabbouleh, but this dish tasted a lot more like Moroccan couscous. Our bread accompaniments were both injera and ambasha, a brioche or challah-like bread shaped like a large wheel. Our tour guide Sarah said that she makes French toast out of it. That's a breakfast I would go for too.

The tour couldn't have ended on a better note than with a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony at Little Ethiopia restaurant. Located in the ground level of a town house, the restaurant is decorated just like an Ethiopian home with walls hung with paintings and crafts and traditional tables and chairs. It's as close to how an Ethiopian home would look like in Ethiopia. As we arrived we could see and smell the roasting of the coffee beans. A hostess slowly toasted the beans in a shallow pan set over a burner, using a wire to toss the beans. The beans gradually turned darker and darker until they were ebony. Soon the finished beans were whisked away to be ground and steeped to make our coffee.

Meanwhile we were treated to a customary hand-washing as one of the hostesses came by with a kettle of warm water, bowl, and towels. The proprietor, Tutu Belay, treated us to her lentil sambusas, which tasted just like Indian samosas. As we eagerly awaited our coffees, I couldn't help but wonder what it would taste like. The coffee turned out to be a dark, rich liquor and tasted no different from a good espresso except for a slight sour note. I tasted it black first and then added sugar and a spoonful of dry milk, which is the traditional way of drinking it. Afterward we toured Tutu's gift shop above the restaurants and met her musician husband, Yehune, who performs in the restaurant on Friday nights. It's a sure way to bring in more customers especially tourists who want to learn more about Ethiopian food and culture.

The Little Ethiopia area is definitely a must-see part of DC. It's a tourist attraction in itself. You walk through the streets and you are immediately transported to Ethiopia. The promise of colorful and flavorful food welcomes you in and music keeps you there longer than you would expect. I highly recommend watching a true coffee ceremony. After all coffee was first discovered in Ethiopia. Why not learn from where and how your morning "cup of Joe" originated? Any of these three restaurants offers a fine experience, but Little Ethiopia restaurant was my favorite for its authentic atmosphere. Do remember that there are many more Ethiopian restaurants in DC than I've mentioned here. If only I had the time to go to all of them, but even so I was able to experience a very nice sampling of the country's food and culture, which is always the best way to be introduced to a nation and its people. In Little Ethiopia you will find warm and inviting people and much more.

Zenebech Injera
608 T Street NW
Washington, DC 20001
202-667-4700

Habesha Market and Carry-Out
1919 9th Street NW
Washington, DC 20001
202-232-1919

Little Ethiopia Restaurant
1924 9th Street NW
Washington, DC 20001
202-319-1924

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A Culinary Pilgrimage to Julia Child's Kitchen

I couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit Julia Child's kitchen while I was in DC last month. Her kitchen, which is now a Smithsonian exhibit, has always meant so much for me. As far back as I can remember I've always known the kitchen through Julia's TV shows, many of which were taped there. I first remember watching Julia in her Cooking at Home series with Jacques Pépin. Later I became a lover of baking from watching her series Baking with Julia. The first time I ever saw Julia on TV, I wondered who is this big woman who talks so funny. But the more I watcher her, the harder it became to look away. I became enamored with her charm, grace, and culinary prowess.

Today is the sixth anniversary of Julia Child's death. And this Sunday, the 15th, would have been Julia's birthday. For me this week is all about remembering Julia and her bottomless passion for food and life. She affected the world in such a profound way and changed culinary history forever. It was her hunger for culture that led her to discover the wonders of cooking and baking. She took it upon herself to find herself, her purpose in life, and completed a career change in her mid-30s. Many people would never have the courage to do so. But Julia wasn't afraid to put in the effort and follow her heart—or her gut for that matter. She was dedicated, often repeatedly prepared a dish until it was up to her standards of perfection. That's what passion is all about.

After earning her culinary diploma at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, teaching cooking classes with the cowriters of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and living in different places around Europe, Julia and Paul decided to settle down and made their permanent home in Cambridge, Massachusetts in 1961. Julia lived and worked there for 40 years. She donated her kitchen to the Smithsonian just before she retired to Santa Barbara, California. Her kitchen was completely disassembled and moved to the National Museum of American History, where it reopened as an exhibit in 2001.

Just visiting the museum and walking into the exhibit, you can feel her presence everywhere. Besides the kitchen, there are pictures and stories on the walls of the exhibit and also a video stream playing old interviews and scenes from her television shows shot in the kitchen. But the kitchen is really the star of the exhibit. You see all the work that Paul put into designing the kitchen: choosing the perfect shade of color for the cabinets, which were made to Julia's height specifications and setting up the pegboards with pots, pans, and utensils with outlines to make sure everything had a purposeful place. Good thing Julia donated her kitchen, because after a renovation, her former home has no semblance of her life there except for Paul's wine cellar, which was left untouched. I can't imagine if her kitchen would have fallen to the same detrimental fate. There's just so much to see and lean from it even today.

So tonight, when I'm rewatching Julie & Julia, I'll be thinking of all the wonderful work that Julia produced from that kitchen, her books, her TV shows, and her generosity for helping other writers and chefs succeed in a difficult business. I'd like to leave you with a quote from the exhibit, other than "Bon Appetit," and that's Julia saying "Above all, have a good time." In everything that you do—in life and work, make sure you enjoy what you're doing. That's really what Julia did. She was not afraid to do anything she set her mind to and even through cooking mishaps, tough times in her life, or when publishers kept saying "no" to her cookbook, she moved onward and always injected fun into whatever she was doing.

Julia Child's Kitchen at the Smithsonian
National Museum of American History
National Mall
1400 Constitution Ave NW
Washington, DC 20004
(202) 357-1300
Admission is free. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and to 7:30 p.m. during summer.

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Summer Herbal Cocktails: New Takes on the Classics

I haven't met an herb I didn't like. Right now in my garden I have more than a dozen varieties of herbs growing. I have different uses for all of them. Some I love to use when roasting meats or vegetables, like rosemary and sage. I put parsley and mint in my salads. I also use mint in my teas. I use cilantro in guacamole, which I make almost every week. And of course I have a bush of basil for when it comes time to make homemade tomato sauce.

This year I've tried growing Greek basil and Thai basil with great success. My stir-frys and Thai curries are so much better with the addition of Thai basil, which has an anise-like flavor. For years I've been growing lovage, a perennial herb that grows four feet tall every year. Its flavor is a lot like parsley and celery combined, and its tall stalks look much like celery except that they are hollow like bamboo. You might have come across lovage used in a Bloody Mary but not have known what it was. The stalks make very nice straws.

What would our cooking be without herbs? I can't imagine recipes without them. Just think of many of the dishes you eat. You'll probably find a sprinkling of parsley in most. That and cilantro are the most widely used herbs in cooking. But imagine what many of our spirits would be without herbs? Many famous drinks use herbs and/or spices to create their unique flavor profiles. Think of ouzo, pastis, akvavit, Jägermeister, bitters, and even some brands of gin. Many cocktails have some type of herb, like the classic mojito, made with mint.



This summer I decided to make good use of my herbs and make cocktails. What would a summer party be without a cocktail or two? When entertaining, it's good practice to offer a couple choices of cocktails just as you would offer red and white wine. Here I have a choice of an herbal and aromatic Lovage Collins (left in picture) and a sweet and exotic Thai Basil Mojito. They're twists on two very classic cocktails. I use lime in both, but a Collins is typically made with lemon juice and has no herbs, whereas a mojito typically has mint, which I replace with Thai basil.

This summer why not try something new? Create a libation or two and don't limit yourself to just using mint as a garnish. Pick up some herbs you've never used before at the farmers' market and try a few in a recipe or a cocktail.

This summer I'm participating in A Way to Garden's Third Annual Summer Fest. Every Wednesday a summer produce will be the theme. This Wednesday it's herbs, greens, and beans. To participate all you have to do is something as simple as leaving a comment or linking to a favorite blog post or informational site. You can share gardening tips, recipes, and/or pictures. Visit the Summer Fest link for more information. Many other blogs are participating and it would be great to see how far the conversation goes.

My favorite recipes using herbs:
Asian Eggplant Stir-Fry with Thai Basil
Fava Bean, Herb, and Avocado Salad on Bruschetta
Dilled Cheese Tart
Tabbouleh
Drunken Mussels with Leek and Lovage

Lovage Collins

2 lime wedges
10 lovage leaves
2 ounces gin
1 ounce simple syrup, recipe follows
soda water
lovage sprig, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, muddle together lime wedges, lovage leaves, gin, and simple syrup with crushed ice. Pour into a chilled highball glass. Top off with soda water. Garnish with lovage sprig. Yield: 1 drink.

Thai Basil Mojito

2 lime wedges
10 Thai basil leaves
2 ounces white rum
1 ounce simple syrup, recipe follows
soda water
Thai basil sprig, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, muddle together lime wedges, Thai basil leaves, rum, and simple syrup with crushed ice. Pour into a chilled highball glass. Top off with soda water. Garnish with Thai basil sprig. Yield: 1 drink.

Simple Syrup

1 cup water
1 cup sugar

Combine water and sugar in a small saucepan; bring to a boil. Simmer until dissolved and thick syrup forms. Once cooled, store the syrup in a jar in the refrigerator until ready to use. Yield: 1 cup.

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Dupont Circle Freshfarm Market: An Oasis in the Heart of Washington, DC

I can't think of a better place to get the freshest produce than at a local farmers' market. I had the opportunity to visit one of the most popular markets while I was in Washington, DC earlier this month with Destination DC. The Dupont Circle Market, run by Freshfarm Markets, has been a centerpiece for locals since it began in 1997. I was so excited to see the market in action and I was not the least bit let down on seeing the crowds of customers. I was amazed to see more than 30 stands of produce and artisanal products all lined up under tents in the parking lot of PNC Bank and the adjacent street.

Dupont Circle Market was first on the roster of farmers' markets opened by Freshfarm. Since the organization's founding, farmers' markets have been sprouting up throughout DC as well as Maryland. One of the newest markets added is By the White House Market, which was inaugurated last September by first lady Michelle Obama. Still Dupont Circle Market is considered by many to be one of the nation's best. It was most recently voted the 7th best farmers' market for travelers by CNN.

As soon as we arrived at the market, we were greeted by Freshfarm's codirector, Bernie Prince, who gave us an in-depth tour of the market. She introduced us to many farmers and sellers who bring their products from all different areas. Products sold come from the Chesapeake Bay watershed region, which includes Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and West Virginia. At the market you will find baked goods, dairy products, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and even soaps. As Bernie explained, Freshfarm Markets are producer-only markets, which means that the farmers may only sell what they grow/produce themselves. All prices are set by the farmers and the money we spend goes directly toward supporting their livelihood.

One of the first stands we stopped by was that of Toigo Orchards, where farmer Mark Toigo was on hand to talk about his unique Japanese corn variety, Mirai. It's known for being one of the sweetest and most flavorful corns. Olga from Mango Tomato actually had a good taste of the corn, eating the whole cob raw. I'd never even though I could eat corn raw until then. Mark also had amazing stone fruits and melons, many of which were sliced up for sampling. I couldn't help myself and tried one of each, the aromas of the peaches alone was enough to draw me in. Customers were flocking to Toigo that day.

Stands we visited included Next Step Produce with some of the best-looking organic vegetables I've ever seen; Everona Dairy, which offers delicious sheep's milk cheese among other products, the Mushroom Stand with beautiful specimens of foraged mushrooms; and Clear Spring Creamery, which sells creamy yogurt in four flavors among other dairy products. I sampled the unflavored yogurt, which was ever-so tangy, smooth, and luscious. I wish could have taken home a gallon of it.

I was so surprised to see beautiful blue crabs at Buster's Seafood caught by fisherman Jimmy Hogge. Another unique sight was the wall of corn at the Spring Valley Farm stand. Bernie says that by 2 p.m. all the corn is sold. We were there at 9:30 a.m. and they were already restocking. At Endless Summer Harvest, Kathleen Jorgensen showed off her stunning hydroponically grown lettuces, the definition of perfection. Country Pleasures had lovely jars of jam and preserves as well as some very fine-looking garlic, so much better than the ones shipped from afar.

While at the market, don't be surprised if you rub elbows with a few chefs or two. It's well known that many chefs use the market's produce in their restaruant kitchens. The market also features Chef at Market, where noteworthy chefs are invited to offer cooking demonstrations and/or book signings.

I had a lovely time perusing the market and wished I was a local myself so I could take bushels of fruits and vegetables home. I love my Union Square Greenmarket, but at Dupont Circle I felt very at home among all the locals. All of us in the group seemed to have a special time. I even spied Cathy of Gastronomy Blog eating a giant juicy white peach from Toigo. She later admitted to even having an empanada from Chris's Marketplace, where I tried the amazing crab cakes. I don't know where she puts it. If only I would have bought an empanada for the trip home. If you're ever in the DC area on a Sunday morning, make an effort to stop by Dupont Circle Market. It's well worth the trip.

Dupont Circle Freshfarm Market
20th Street NW, between Q Street and Massachusetts Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20036
Open every Sunday, from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. from April through December; and from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. from January through March.

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Panzanella Bread Salad with Summer Corn and Heirloom Tomatoes

I can't imagine summer without fresh vegetables, especially corn and tomatoes. Every year I eagerly wait for them to come into season. Just think of crunchy sweet corn and lusciously juicy tomatoes. This year my tomatoes have been very late, but finally just yesterday I picked four of my special heirlooms. I was more than excited to eat them. But I had to honor them properly by using them in a way that would show off their freshness and beauty. I couldn't think of a better recipe than a much-loved and often enjoyed Italian bread salad.

Panzanella is often thought of as a leftover salad made to use up day-old bread. But in Tuscany, from where the salad originates, it is considered a summer specialty and not simply a leftover strategy. Typically the bread used in panzanella is hearty Tuscan bread, which is traditionally made without salt. Dry bread is moistened in water and then mixed with the typical ingredeints of tomatoes, onions, garlic, basil, olive oil, and vinegar. It makes for a lively appetizer or side dish. But I make this panzanella a bit differently.



I put a spin on tradition and grill the bread, leaving out the step of moistening it with water. I also leave out onions. And for an extra summery touch, I add fresh, raw corn for crunch and sweetness. this bread salad wouldn't be complete without the perfume and anise-like favor of basil. I use Greek basil, not because it's Greek, but because the leave are tiny and look so elegant scattered over the finished salad. It's a very refreshing salad perfect as a starter to any summer afternoon.

This summer I'm participating in A Way to Garden's Third Annual Summer Fest. Every Wednesday a summer produce (a fruit or vegetable) will be the theme. This Wednesday it's corn. To participate all you have to do is something as simple as leaving a comment or linking to a favorite blog post of yours or to another site. You can share gardening tips, recipes, and/or pictures. Visit the Summer Fest link for more information. Many other blogs are participating and it would be great to see how far the conversation goes.

More corn recipes:
Black Bean Salad
Seared Scallops with Corn Salsa and Cilantro Pesto
Summer Corn Chowder

Panzanella Salad with Summer Corn and Heirloom Tomatoes

2 small and 2 medium to large heirloom tomatoes
2 slices French country bread
1 garlic clove
1 tablespoon olive oil, for brushing bread
1/3 cup fresh corn kernels, sliced from the cob
1/4 cup Greek basil leaves or torn Italian basil leaves
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Slice larger tomatoes thin and cut small tomatoes into eighths. Arrange on a platter.

Heat a grill pan set over high heat. Rub bread slices with garlic clove and brush or drizzle with olive oil on both sides. Grill until charred with grill lines, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Tear bread into chunks.

Scatter torn bread, corn kernels, and basil over plate. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately. Yield: 2 to 3 appetizer servings.

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Birch & Barley

From just opening last fall, Birch & Barley in Washington, D.C. has received some very noteworthy praise and an award for best new restaurant. I can clearly see why. With its garage door front, the restaurant reminded me of many eateries in New York that are purposely built with garage doors for hip effect, whereas Birch & Barley was converted from working garage to restaurant, making it infinitely more genuine and hip. With a modern interior with rustic touches, tall ceilings, an open kitchen, and a beer-centric bar, the restaurant has a lot going for it. The husband and wife team, chef Kyle Bailey and pastry chef Tiffany MacIsaac, are both New York restaurant transplants. Having both met and worked at Shea Gallante’s Cru, Bailey later worked for Dan Barber at Blue Hill at Stone Barns before meeting up with MacIsaac again at Allen and Delancey. Both left Allen and Delancey in the summer of 2009 to open the restaurant Birch & Barley and the bar ChurchKey with the Neighborhood Restaurant Group. Since then the restaurant's popularity has literally taken off.

With a very unique and creative menu featuring farm fresh products, 555 artisanal beers served on tap in ChurchKey, and a dessert menu that makes the last course anything but an afterthought, the restaurant is worthy of its early acclaim. Greg Engert, the restaurant’s resident beer director is an expert in his field who first began his career in the restaurant business waiting tables while earning a graduate degree in English from Georgetown University. You will never meet anyone with more expert knowledge and passion for beer. Engert simply exudes beer through his excitable personality, flowing directly from his hands as he explains the history behind any of the 555 beers on tap. If I were asked to offer only one reason to visit the restaurant and bar, it would be to see Engert in action.

I was lucky to be invited to Birch & Barley among a group of food and travel bloggers and writers on tour of Washington’s culinary hotspots with Destination DC. Our group was treated to a full tasting menu with each course paired with an exceptional artisanal beer. Even those among the group who came ambivalent about beer were left with a deeper appreciation and fondness for beer. Many of our beverages, so unlike the beers we’ve ever tasted before, had us realizing the vastness of artisanal beers available. I met a few new favorite beers that I soon will be looking forward to pairing with my own culinary creations.

With hardly a moment of waiting, Engert welcomed us to the restaurant and wasted no time by opening a bottle of Rubus raspberry ale from Italy. What immediately lifted to the nose was a noteworthy raspberry aroma. The flavor of the pretty pink ale was a slight but not at all unpleasant sour taste. Along with the Rubus, we were also offered balls of fried arancini, an Italian dish made from leftover pea risotto, a specialty of the restaurant's bar just upstairs, ChurchKey. It was a very refreshing and summery start to the seemingly endless dinner that was to follow that evening.

In between our first course and second course we requested a few of the restaurant's specialties, including the crispy duck egg. It's basically a soft-boiled duck egg that is then batter-fried and served with a spring salad of frisée, asparagus, and pancetta. It's a take on the traditional French salade Lyonnaise, which is usually done with a poached egg. It made a very nice starter as did the seasonal specialty of panzanella tomato salad, which Olga from MangoTomato requested. It was a simple and succulent dish of heirloom tomato slices, a fried green tomato, grilled toast, ricotta, and mozzarella. What the restaurant offers to all diners is a selection of amazing breads. It's part of the joy that comes by way of MacIsaac, who bakes everything from scratch. She’s nothing short of a master pastry chef and baker. Included on our bread board were the pretzel bread, olive bread, and sweet cornbread. None of us at the table could resist the pretzel bread and the grainy mustard that came with it.

For our official first course of the tasting menu, we were presented with a tuna tartare dressed in soy, mirin, ginger, and sprinkled with Hawaiian sea salt. A dish with very fresh and clean flavors, it worked well with the beer pairing of Flemish sour ale, produced in Belgium for Monk's Cafe in Philadelphia. (The beer photos precede the pairings in the slideshow.) As Greg pointed out, the sourness of the almost ruby-red ale works well with Asian flavors, in this case the soy-mirin dressing of the tuna tartare.

I haven't seen any menu this summer that didn't have at least one dish that made good use of summer corn. Our second dish in our marathon tasting incorporated corn in a way that I haven't seen before. Fresh tortellini was filled with a sweet corn pudding and served with Dungeness crab meat and broccoli rabe, all drizzled in a butter sauce. Looking back on the entire dinner in retrospect, this was my favorite. The sweetness of the corn, the crab, and the butter sauce worked very harmoniously and the broccoli rabe added a slight bitter note, helping to offset the sweetness by just a bit. The beer pairing was a perfect match: Hochland Bio Honig Bock (organic honey lager) from Germany further brought out the sweetness in the dish. You will immediately notice the golden color, smell the honey, and taste the sweet floweriness in the beer. First the aroma of the raspberry beer amazed me, but now it was the honey beer.

I believe no tasting menu can be complete without fish or seafood of some sort. We were served halibut topped with chanterelles and Roma beans alongside orzo with peas. The fish was exceptionally flaky and tender. And halibut is one of my favorite fish, which unfortunately I don't often have the chance to enjoy. It was paired with Stateside Saison from Stillwater Artisanal Ales in Maryland. This is a beer made with European malt and New Zealand hops with a notable oak flavor from the casks in which it is held. Created much like a Belgian Saison, this Stateside has a pale color and a unique spicey flavor.

I'm a sucker for any lamb dish. I love lamb, especially when it's medium-rare. The spring lamb dish satisfied all my desires. It was beautifully pink and had the taste of real lamb with a slight gaminess. Served with bulgur wheat, the dish had an almost Middle Eastern slant. Once again peas, this time in the bulgur, seemed to be a running theme of the evening. Alongside was a lone roasted cippolini onion and a few streaks of sweet carrot purée. It was a very earthy dish brought out even more by the beverage pairing of Moonraker ale from England, a dark, ruddy colored beer with a sweet, malty flavor that for me made this pairing one of my favorites.

Tête de Moine or Monk's head cheese, as translated from the French, is a unique Swiss cheese with a nutty and funky character. As Engert enthusiastically explained, the cheese is named monk's head because the monks used the same razor to shave the cheese as they used for shaving their scalps. Even today the custom follows of shaving the cheese but the preferred tool for doing so is now the girolle, which creates flower-like blossoms of cheese as it moves around a center point driven into the wheel of cheese. The shaving is thought to open up the flavors and character of the cheese. Served with toasted bread and slices of pickled cherries, the tête de moine was a nice entrée to dessert. Jan de Lichte, a Belgian beer named after a criminal executed more than two centuries ago, was matched with the course. Made with four grains: wheat, barley, buckwheat, and oats, the beer had a golden color and a spicey character and citrus flavor due to the addition of coriander and orange peel.

Sometimes I like a very sweet treat, but it's a craving I rarely have especially after a long meal, when something cloying would sooner make me vomit than help me feel sated. That's when I prefer a light (not 'lite'), palate-cleansing dessert. The goat's milk cheesecake was just that, a clean and tangy dessert paired with a tart cherry sorbet flecked with black pepper, which left a uniquely bright aftertaste. A balsamic reduction and a few pickled cherries round out this sweet and savory dessert. The group agreed that it was one of the highlights of the night. It was paired with Aventinus, a wheat doppelblock from Germany. This dark beer with hints of chocolate very nicely complemented the tart cheesecake and sorbet and played off the balsamic reduction.

If you are ever in D.C. and are looking for a unique eat, Birch & Barley is the way to go. Creations by chefs Bailey and MacIsaac will not let you down. And Engert will have your mind swimming in more beer history than you could ever imagine. I left fuller in more ways than one: full in the "I cannot eat anymore" sense and full with a new knowledge and appreciation for beer. The bustling dining room and winding queue outside the door say it all. I expect the newfound popularity of this culinary gem in D.C. won't soon fade.

Birch & Barley
1337 14th Street NW
Washington, D.C. 2005
202-567-2576
Open daily for dinner, Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10:00 p.m. and Friday through Saturday, 5:30 to 11:00 p.m. Open Sunday for brunch, 11:00 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Appetizers range in price from $11 to $18, and entrées from $16 to $30. Tasting menu is $55 plus $22 for beer pairings.

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