Apple Fritters with Honey Syrup

When homemade, doughnuts and fritters are the absolute best. They far surpass any "donut" shop doughnuts. When I'm in the mood for doughnuts but don't have the patience to wait for dough to rise, I like to make fritters. They fulfill my craving as fast as I can fry them. Their crispy fried exterior and fluffy interior are what make them a favorite sweet treat for many people. A batch of fritters is very easy to put together and they are great for any occasion. But they make a special treat for Hanukkah, which is celebrated with fried foods like latkes and fritters.

The interesting thing about fritters is that you can find versions of them in many cultures throughout Europe, Asia, and South America. Greeks have Loukoumades, which are balls of fried dough doused in honey syrup. The French have beignets. Italians have zeppole. In Spain and Latin America there are buñuelos. In India there are gulab jamun, balls soaked in spiced sugar syrup. In the United States you can find apple fritter rings, which look just like doughnuts. I'd like to think it possible that the original recipe for fritters made its way through all the different cultures, who then adapted it to their liking.

This recipe combines the best of all of the international fritters. Diced tart apples are folded into a cinnamon batter. Once fried, the fritters are drizzled with honey syrup. In one bite you get sweet succulence and a bit of fruity tartness. The recipe can be put together in minutes. Fry the fritters to order to keep them as fresh as possible. Keep the syrup warm so it remains liquid. Drizzle the fritters just before serving them to eagerly awaiting family and friends. Apple fritters are definitely a dessert worth celebrating with.

Apple Fritters with Honey Syrup

for the apple fritters:
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and diced
1 lemon, zested and juiced
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoon butter, melted
3/4 cup whole milk
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
canola oil, for frying

for the honey syrup:
1/3 cup honey
1/2 cup water
1 small cinnamon stick

Toss together diced apples with lemon zest and juice in a small bowl to keep from browning.

In a large bowl, combine the dry ingredients: flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon. Mix together with a whisk to aerate.

Combine melted butter, milk, eggs, and vanilla in a small bowl and beat together. Pour the liquid into the dry ingredients and mix until just combined. Fold in diced apples.

Warm 1 to 2 inches of oil in a large pot set over medium-high heat. The temperature of the oil should register around 350 degrees F. Test with a drop of batter.

In the meantime, make the honey syrup. Combine honey, water, and cinnamon stick in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil. Simmer on low until slightly reduced, about 5 to 10 minutes.

To make the fritters, using a 1-1/2-inch releasable scoop, drop dollops of the batter into the hot oil. Using tongs or a fork, turn the fitters so that all sides brown, but they should turn themselves. Fry, in batches, until golden brown all around, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove to a tray lined with paper towels to drain. Serve drizzled with honey syrup. Yield: about 32 apple fritters.

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Pecan and Maple Pie with Whole-Wheat Crust

Thanksgiving would not be complete without pie for dessert. And I think that everyone would agree that the classic pies of pecan, pumpkin, sweet potato, or apple are just as important as the main meal itself. Even when we are stuffed to the brim with turkey and all the sides, there is always room for dessert. Pumpkin pie is my favorite, but right behind it is pecan pie. I love all nuts, but pecans are on top of my list with their sweet, nutty, and buttery flavor. Pecans are especially loved in Southern cuisine, both sweet and savory recipes.

Pecans have Southern roots, literally because they are native to the South. Pecan trees are plentiful throughout the Southern states, from Iowa to Texas, with Georgia being the biggest commercial producer. Native Americans introduced pecans to the French settlers in New Orleans and since then the nut and the pie have been considered Southern specialties. It is more than likely that the French came up with the pie recipe, but Karo, the makers of corn syrup, claim that they invented the pecan pie in 1930 to popularize the syrup. Still, the pie is a classic no matter who claimed to have invented it.

Instead of corn syrup, my recipe uses Lyle's golden syrup, which is inverted sugar syrup made during the process of refining cane juice into sugar. It has the color of honey and a slight molasses flavor. Golden syrup was invented by a Scotsman in 1883 and is very popular in Britain. It's also commonly used in Cajun cuisine in Louisiana. I'd like to think that the original French recipe for pecan pie might have used it. For a New England twist, I add maple syrup, which lends even more depth of flavor. To create an extra crispy crust, I use whole-wheat flour. But the most important ingredient is pecans, and lots of them. This pie has a lot of sweet going on, but that is perfectly authentic for the holiday.

Pecan and Maple Pie with Whole-Wheat Crust

Note: Find Lyle's Golden Syrup in the international aisle of the supermarket, specialty British shops, or online.

whole-wheat crust, recipe follows
4 large eggs
1 cup light-brown sugar
1 cup Lyle's golden syrup
1/2 cup pure maple syrup
2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup coarsely chopped pecans
1 cup whole pecan halves

On a lightly floured work surface, roll out pie dough to 1/4-inch thickness. Carefully lay dough into a 9-inch pie pan. Press dough into the sides. Remove excess dough with a knife. Crimp the edge using your thumb and forefingers. Chill for 15 to 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

In a large bowl, using a whisk, beat together eggs and sugar. Add golden syrup, maple syrup, and vanilla extract; beat to combine. Stir in chopped pecans.

Pour filling into pie shell. Arrange pecan halves decoratively on top of filling. Bake for 15 minutes at 400 degrees F. to crisp the crust. Lower heat to 350 degrees F. and bake until filling is set and puffed, about 1 hour, 15 minutes. A skewer inserted into the center should come out clean. Let cool completely. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Yield: 8 to 10 slices.

Whole-Wheat Crust

Note: This recipe uses white whole-wheat, which is made from the bran and germ of white wheat rather than red wheat. It's nutrient content is practically the same as regular whole wheat (made from red wheat), but the flavor is less bitter. It also has a lower gluten and protein content. If you can't find it, substitute whole-wheat or all-purpose flour.

1-1/4 cup white whole-wheat flour
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
3 to 5 tablespoons ice water

Combine flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Mix together with a whisk to aerate. Add butter and work with a pastry blender until mixture resembles course meal.

While mixing, drizzle water into dry ingredients 1 tablespoon at a time. Mix until dough comes together. If too dry, 1 to 2 tablespoons ice water can be added.

Form the dough into a flat disc and wrap in plastic. Chill for at least 1 hour before rolling.

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Miso-Glazed Acorn Squash

Acorn squash has such a unique shape, that is worth showing off in recipes. When I cook with them I always try keep their features intact, so I don't peel them. Stuffed with a meat filling and baked, they resemble open hearts. When they're sliced, as in this recipe, they look like scalloped crescent moons. They are a perfect vegetable to roast because they hold their shape well particularly when the skin is left on. They can be steamed or sautéed, and even mashed like potatoes, making them a very versatile vegetable. But roasting is my favorite cooking method because it concentrates their natural flavor.

Most acorn squash recipes use sweetener to bring out the flavor. The traditional route would be brown sugar, which automatically gives it Thanksgiving flair. Instead I use maple syrup for its rich sweetness. The focus of this recipe is miso paste, the Japanese ingredient made from soybeans that is used in miso soup. The miso paste adds a salty, savory flavor. The combination of sweet and savory elevates the flavor of the squash even more. This recipe makes a very simple side for the holiday that complements a multitude of other sides and the main bird. It's quick and easy enough to put together in minutes. Just sit back and roast.



Acorn and butternut squashes are designated as winter squashes, but they are directly related to summer squashes, like zucchini and the crooked necked yellow squash. They are grown and harvested just before the first frost and are stored until their skins harden. They last for many months in storage in a cool, dark place. Their interior color is not as orange as butternut squash because they contain less beta-carotene. Still they provide a lot of fiber, vitamins, and minerals. Squashes are truly an American vegetable. We've known them since the Native Americans first introduced them to Colonists. Thanksgiving just wouldn't be complete without a recipe for squash.

Miso-Glazed Acorn Squash

2 medium acorn squash (about 1-1/2 pounds each)
4 tablespoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon miso paste
2 tablespoons canola oil
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Cut each squash in half lengthwise. Slice each half crosswise to create scalloped half moons. In a small bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the maple syrup, miso paste, and oil.

In a large bowl, combine the squash slices with the glaze mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Lay the squash slices on two rimmed baking sheets lined with aluminum foil. Roast squash for 30 to 35 minutes or until tender. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.


Also try these squash recipes:
Butternut Squash Cake with Maple Icing
Chicken Meatballs with Spaghetti Squash
Pork and Rice-Stuffed Pattypan Squash
Squash and Honey Pie with Cornmeal Crust
Lebanese Lamb and Bulgur-Stuffed Acorn Squash
Lemon-Thyme-Marinated Pork Tenderloin with Maple-Roasted Butternut Squash

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Chicken Consommé

There is no more elegant way to start a dinner party and prime the palate than with a bowl of consommé. A product of classic French cuisine, consommé is a clarified broth made from either chicken, beef, or veal stock. You can find consommé on the menus of traditional French restaurants. But it only takes moderate supervision to cook a stock and consommé at home. With patience and respect for the ingredients, this labor of love is well worth the effort, especially to give guests a dinner they won't soon forget.

What makes consommé unique is the clarification process that turns a cloudy stock into a crystal clear liquid. Ground meat is combined with mirepoix (a combination of chopped vegetables) and egg whites. The mixture is stirred into stock that is brought to the simmer. It forms a raft on the surface of the liquid, slowly picking up all the impurities present in the stock. The raft is discarded and the liquid is strained. What remains is a clear broth full of flavor. Typically consommé is served with garnishes of julienned vegetables. Here I serve it with carrots and chives. What an elegant start to dinner.



Stock, especially chicken stock, makes up the foundation of so many recipes. We often neglect the importance of it in adding flavor and body to soups and sauces. But we take stock for granted since we most often purchase it at the supermarket. But did you ever stop to read the nutrition labels? Almost all the brands contain MSG and artificial flavor and coloring. I admit that I often use these broths especially when I'm in a pinch and have no homemade stock stowed in the freezer. But when it comes to holidaytime, I don't like to cut corners. I make a big batch of stock to use for my gravy, stuffing, and soup. I wouldn't feel right if I didn't try to make everything from scratch. I know that this doesn't hold true for everyone, but with some preplanning you too can make homemade stock.

I love to take a day on the weekend and work on making a pot of stock. All you need are some chicken bones and vegetables to make a flavorful chicken stock. Scraps of vegetables, like carrot peels and leek tops, can also be utilized. Chicken backs leftover from other recipes make great additions to the pot. To collect these items, simply bag them over time and keep them in the freezer until you're ready for making stock. The secret to making stock is low and slow, that is simmer at a low temperature for a long time until all the flavor has been extracted from the chicken and vegetables. Once the stock cools, refrigerate it so that it's easy to remove any fat from the surface the next day. Now you are ready and armed with a great stock for any recipe that calls for it.

Chicken Consommé

Recipe adapted from French Food at Home by Laura Calder.

6 cups homemade chicken stock, recipe follows
1 small carrot, coarsely chopped
1 small leek, white part only, coarsely chopped
8 ounces ground chicken
2 large egg whites
2 tablespoons water
fine sea salt
julienned carrots, for garnish
snipped chives for garnish

In the bowl of a food processor, combine carrot and leek; process until finely chopped. Add ground chicken, egg whites, and water; process until combined.

Combine stock and meat mixture in a large pot and stir until incorporated.

Bring stock to a boil. Keep stirring until stock comes to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Stop stirring and watch for the the mixture to coagulate and form a raft on top of the stock. A small hole will start to form in the center. Make it bigger with a spoon. Continue to simmer gently for 45 minutes.

Turn off the heat and let it stand for a few minutes. Using a slotted spoon, crack through the raft and lift out as much as possible and discard. Pour the stock through a sieve lined with cheesecloth. Return to clean pot. Season to taste. Serve with garnishes. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Chicken Stock

2 pounds chicken bones, backs, necks, and/or wings
10 cups water
2 carrots, cut into chunks
2 stalks celery, cut into chunks
1 leek, light-green and dark-green parts
1 yellow onion, quartered
1/2 bulb celeriac, trimmed and cut into chunks
6 sprigs parsley
6 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns

Combine chicken and water in a large pot. Bring to a boil. Skim scum from the surface of the liquid. Add vegetables, herbs, and spices. Reduce to a gentle simmer. Keep skimming surface of liquid while mixture simmers. Cook, uncovered, for 1 hour 15 minutes or until meat and vegetables are absolutely tender.

Once stock has cooled slightly, remove all the meat and vegetables and discard. Pour stock through a sieve lined with cheesecloth. Use immediately or, if desired, refrigerate overnight and skim any fat from the surface. Yield: 6 to 7 cups stock.

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Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Sage and Walnut Topping

Thanksgiving isn't complete without some sort of sweet potato dish. There's the traditional marshmallow-topped sweet potato side dish or the classic dessert of sweet potato pie. Sweet potatoes are almost magical when cooked or baked. Their bright orange flesh turns soft and almost creamy. Roasting them heightens their natural sweetness even more. Many holiday recipes further improve upon the sweetness by adding brown sugar, honey, or maple syrup. With the holiday only one week away, it's time to start planning. I'll be making a few new recipes to add to my repertoire.

Sweet and savory flavors are the basis of many classic Thanksgiving recipes. This side dish strays from the typical in favor of something a bit more gourmet and savory. Roasted sweet potatoes are mashed with butter, cream, and maple syrup and then spread in a gratin dish. The mashed sweet potatoes are then topped with fluffy panko breadcrumbs, fresh sage, and chopped walnuts. It's then drizzled with melted butter and broiled, turning the top golden and crunchy. It's a side dish that's sure to please both sweet potato traditionalists and those looking for a new take on a holiday favorite.

The first thing to know about sweet potatoes is that they are not yams. Yams, which are native to Africa and Asia, are a completely different vegetable. Yams are white and starchy. Sweet potatoes are orange and sweet and are distantly related to white potatoes. This confusion only really exists in North America. Unfortunately the USDA continues to label sweet potatoes and yams, which adds to the confusion. Just know that sweet potatoes are what you're looking for to make this recipe.

This fall I'm participating in A Way to Garden's first Fall Fest, a continuation of Summer Fest. Every Wednesday a summer produce will be the theme. This Wednesday it's sweet potatoes. To participate all you have to do is something as simple as leaving a comment or linking to a favorite blog post or informational site. You can share gardening tips, recipes, and/or pictures. Visit the Fall Fest link for more information. Many other blogs are participating and it would be great to see how far the conversation goes.

Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Sage and Walnut Topping

4 pounds sweet potatoes (about 8 medium)
4 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup maple syrup
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup panko Japanese breadcrumbs
1/3 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh sage
4 tablespoons melted butter

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Prick sweet potatoes all over with a fork. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until fork tender, about 1 hour. Let cool slightly before handling.

Peel potatoes and add to a large bowl. Mash with butter. Pour in cream and maple syrup; mix to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Spread potatoes in 2 small gratin dishes or 1 large baking dish.

In a small bowl, combine breadcrumbs, walnuts, and sage. Season with salt and pepper. Scatter mixture over sweet potatoes. Drizzle over with melted butter. Set in oven and warm through, about 10 minutes. Set under broiler for 5 minutes or until top is golden brown. Serve immediately. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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Shaved Beet and Radish Salad with Pomegranate Seeds

Eat your beets! We've all heard that from our moms quite often as kids. Unfortunately it was more often canned beets that we were persuaded to eat. As a curious eater, I've come to appreciate beets in many different preparations. I especially love them roasted in salads. But have you ever thought of eating them raw? Sliced very thinly, beets and other root vegetables, make great salads. Yes, it's possible to slice them thin with a knife, but a mandoline does the job better than anything else to get paper-thin shavings.

In this beautiful salad I combine three different colors of beets, plus a watermelon radish, and add pomegranate seeds for additional ruby color. The radish adds a different type of crunch and hotness. The pomegranate seeds along with a squeeze of orange juice add sweetness and tang to the salad. A sprinkling of dill adds green color as well as herbal flavor. After trying this salad, you will be surprised to find how naturally sweet beets taste when eaten raw. They are nature's candy in both taste and color.



Beets are beautiful, jewel-toned root vegetables. They come in deep red, bright pink, golden yellow, and white. The pink ones, which are known as Chiogga, resemble a bulls-eye when sliced open. I found these beautiful varieties at the stands of Migliorelli Farm and Paffenroth Gardens at the Union square Greenmarket. The long red beets are known as slicing beets. They create perfectly sized coins when sliced. I created ovals when I sliced them at an angle. I picked up the watermelon radish at Windfall Farms. They always offer beautiful radishes and carrots as well as a large variety of greens.

This salad is not limited to just beets and radishes. Any root vegetable that catches your fancy at the market will work. Carrots and celeriac would make a lovely addition. Fennel and celery, though not root vegetables, would also add unique flavor, crispness, and freshness. This salad would make a nice addition to the holiday table or it could replace those canned beets at the Sunday dinner table. Whatever you do, don't be afraid to try beets raw. They might just excite your taste buds.

Shaved Beet and Radish Salad with Pomegranate Seeds

Note: There's no need to peel the beets for this salad. Scrub them well under running water and scrape of any root whiskers with a knife. Keep some stems attached to use as a handle when slicing on the mandoline.

3 medium to large beets in different colors
1 medium to large watermelon radish
1/4 cup pomegranate seeds
1/2 orange, zested and juiced
3 to 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
fleur de sel
freshly ground black pepper
dill sprigs, for garnish

Using a mandoline on the thinnest setting, slice beets and radish. Start with the radish and light colored beets and end with the dark colored beet, keeping the different colors separate until assembly. Arrange slices on a large platter or shallow bowl. Scatter pomegranate seeds and orange zest over sliced vegetables. Drizzle with orange juice and olive oil. Season with fleur de sel and pepper. Garnish with dill. Yield: 6 servings.

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The Fall Grape Crush at City Winery

I'm a wine lover through and through. I even have a small wine collection in my cellar, though I doubt many of my bottles are getting any better with age. I've attended many wine classes and tastings, but I've never experienced wine-making firsthand, that is until now. City Winery, an actual winery, music venue, and restaurant, makes wine on premises in Soho. The grapes arrive mostly from the West coast. The winery has only been open since 2008, but they have had a grape crush every year since. This past Saturday, my friend Amanda, The Undomestic Goddess, and I attended the crush. I couldn't believe that our tickets included grape crushing, a visit to the barrel room, brunch, and tastings of five of their wines, all for a bargain at $30.

The man behind City Winery is Michael Dorf, the former owner and founder of the music venue the Knitting Factory. After seeing the wine-making process first hand in California, Mr. Dorf was inspired to open City Winery, an urban winery designed for wine enthusiasts living in the city who want to enjoy the experience of making wine without leaving behind their lifestyle. The winery offers a custom wine-making program that takes the urban winemaker on a journey through the process of making wine from the crush and barreling to the blending and bottling. One can choose to be involved as much or as little as desired. Entire barrels or just a small case of bottles can be purchased for oneself, groups of friends, or for celebrations such as weddings. The winery also offers a place for friends to gather and enjoy food in a convivial setting with live music.

The grape crush is an open event. Ticket holders are welcome to drift as they please and eat while listening to a live folk band. The grape crush takes place in a large room right behind the main entertainment/dining space. The grapes this past Saturday Sauvignon were Cabernet from Haystack Peak vineyards in the Napa Valley. The grape bunches go through a machine that removes the stems. A group of us were inducted to help sort out debris such as small twigs, leaves, and stems from among the grape berries, as they are called. The berries are then lifted on a conveyor built and dropped into the large tank in which they will be "pressed," though no actual pressing takes place. Winemaker David Lecomte says that much care is taken not to overhandle the grapes so that they enter the tank mostly uncrushed.

Once the tank is full, the grapes macerate with yeast and are mixed periodically to reincorporate. The mixture is then allowed to settle and a cap of debris forms on the surface. Once the cap is removed, the liquid is ready for the barrel where it can spend up to 20 months depending on the varietal. The winery also offers free-flow wines that do not have sulfites (preservative) added. If you are one of those people who gets headaches from wines with sulfites, free-flow wines are just right for you. These wines are held in kegs and are pumped to the restaurant bar from the cellar below, much like with ales.

We had the opportunity to taste two white wines and three red wines. The Varick and Vine Chardonnay (Los Carneros, Napa Valley, CA) is very fruity and flavorful. The Downtown Local Roussanne (Alder Springs, Lake County, CA) is lightly oaked with subtle fruit flavor and a scent of vanilla. The Spring Street Pinot Noir was my favorite. It has a ruby color and a warm spice and caramel aroma. It's medium body and fruity flavor make it a good choice for many dishes. I bought a bottle for Thanksgiving. The Houston Street Red (North Coast AVA, CA) is a blend of Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot. It has a good flavor not unlike an everyday table wine. The Leftover Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend from three vineyards in Napa Valley. It's full-bodied, very aromatic, and flavorful. If not for the $48 price, I would have bought a bottle of it too.

I love the entire concept of City Winery, if only I would have thought of it first. It's great for a city person like me, who has never been to an actual vineyard, to see the process of wine-making. Even though a very important step is skipped, that is the growing and nurturing of the grapes, City Winery still offers a unique experience that is not to be missed. Though it's not the most responsible to be shipping wines all the way from the West Coast in the fall or South America in the spring, this does allow for an expansive offering of grape varieties for making wine. Any urban wine-maker has the chance to create a custom wine, single varietal or blend. It's worth attending a crush at City Winery to see the entire wine-making operation in one small city building just without the vineyard. Or simply go for a good time with friends, drinking and enjoying a selection of wine while listening to live music.

City Winery
155 Varick Street, on the corner of Vandam Street
New York, 10013
212-608-0555
Open Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to midnight, and Saturday and Sunday from 5 p.m. to midnight.

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Pasta with Roasted Romanesco

Have you ever seen a head of romanesco? You probably have but just thought it was an alien looking lime-green cauliflower. In fact romanesco is a cousin of cauliflower and brocolli. It's also referred to as romanesco broccoli or Roman cauliflower. It has unique florets that form perfect repetitive spiral cones rising from the stalks. Belonging to the cabbage family, romanesco are native to the Lazio region of Italy and have been around since Roman times. In Italy the vegetable is used in a variety of dishes and is often tossed with pasta.

Here I give romanesco the Italian treatment. I roast it at high heat, which makes it tender and sweet, almost caramelized in flavor. This technique also preserves the bright green color. On the same tray I roast a few cloves of garlic, which I then mash and add to the pasta dish. Combine the vegetables with any short pasta. I use penne, the ridges of which collect the simple sauce made from pasta water, a splash of cream, grated pecorino Romano cheese, and olive oil. It makes for a very appealing meal that's great for lunch or dinner.



Find romanesco, as I did, at your local farmers' market in the fall and winter months. Luckily I grabbed the last head to create this dish, but if you cannot find it, substitute cauliflower or broccoli. At the market this past Saturday I saw white, orange, and pale-green cauliflower as well as green and purple broccoli. You can really make this a colorful dish with a combination of all those vegetables. Romanesco can be prepared in many different ways including sautéing, boiling, and roasting. It's also great raw with a selection of other vegetables for a winter crudité appetizer.

This fall I'm participating in A Way to Garden's first Fall Fest, a continuation of Summer Fest. Every Wednesday a summer produce will be the theme. This Wednesday it's cabbages. To participate all you have to do is something as simple as leaving a comment or linking to a favorite blog post or informational site. You can share gardening tips, recipes, and/or pictures. Visit the Fall Fest link for more information. Many other blogs are participating and it would be great to see how far the conversation goes.

Pasta with Roasted Romanesco

1 head romanesco (1-1/2 to 2 pounds), cut into small florets
3 garlic cloves, skins on
olive oil
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
3/4 pound penne
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1/2 cup grated pecorino Romano, plus more for serving

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Combine romanesco and garlic on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper; toss to combine. Roast, tossing now and then, until romanesco is knife tender, about 20 minutes.

Press garlic from skins. Mash with a knife or fork until a paste forms.

Meanwhile, cook penne according to package directions in a large pot of liberally salted water until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water.

Drain pasta and return to pot. Add romanesco and garlic paste; toss to combine. Add half the pasta water, cream, and cheese, toss until a light sauce forms. Add the remaining pasta water if needed. Drizzle with olive oil. Serve with grated cheese. Yield: 4 servings.

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Ploughman's Grilled Cheese Sandwich

A grilled cheese sandwich is as American as American gets. But other countries have their favorite form of cheese sandwich. The Swiss have the tradition of eating melted Raclette cheese spread on toasted bread. The French have the cafe favorite, the Croque-monsieur, a hot ham and cheese sandwich. The British have Welsh rarebit, which features slices of toast doused in a savory cheese sauce. And of course, the Americans have processed cheese product melted between two pieces of cardboard white bread. It's what most kids grow up on, even me. But I think it's time for a more mature grilled cheese sandwich.

My version puts a twist on an English classic, the Ploughman's lunch. It's a sandwich I enjoyed countless times through my travels in England. The lunch is typically made of country bread, cheese, pickle or gherkin, and apple, pickled onions, or beets. Supposedly the lunch was popularized by the cheese board to market British cheeses. It's not unlike all the marketing that goes into selling a popular brand of American processed cheese. Nowadays, sandwich shops in England have a special Ploughman's sandwich, which includes bread spread with pickle and layered with Cheddar cheese and apple slices. I take that sandwich and grill it to create the ultimate gourmet grilled cheese sandwich.

The ingredient that really makes the sandwich is the pickle, which is the English term for relish. Branston makes the famous English pickle, which includes rutabaga, carrot, onion, cauliflower, and gherkin, all pickled in a vinegary and spicy sauce. It hits all the savory and sweet receptors in your mouth. However, the most important ingredient is cheese, in this case a very good English Cheddar. As a rule I always buy English or Wisconsin cheddar and never processed cheese. The apple slices add a slight sweetness and crunch to the sandwich. It's perfect for lunch or just a snack and it's easy enough to make in the frying pan or the toaster oven.

Ploughman's Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Note: Find Branston pickle in the international aisle of the supermarket, specialty British shops, or online. To make the chunky relish more spreadable, chop finely in the food processor.

2 slices whole-wheat bread
4 slices English Cheddar
1 tablespoon Branston pickle
1/2 apple, thinly sliced

Warm a skillet set over medium heat. Lay bread slices in pan and toast on both sides. Spread each slice of bread with 1-1/2 teaspoons pickle. Lay 2 cheese slices on each bread slice. Layer one slice of bread with apple slices and top with other slice of bread. Grill sandwich until cheese is melted and bread is golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes per side. Yield: 1 sandwich.

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Cream of Celeriac Soup with Herbed Crostini

Oft unknown and underutilized, celeriac or celery root is a vegetable with white flesh and knobby light-brown skin. Its texture is not far from parsnips. Its flavor is like celery: fresh, bright, and almost citrusy. In fact they are related. The celery root grows green stems and leaves above the soil surface that look much like celery and can be used just like celery. The greens have a more pronounced celery flavor but the stems are woody and hollow like bamboo. The herb lovage, another celery cousin, is like this too. The stems can be used as straws in mixed drinks like the Bloody Mary or my take on the Tom Collins.

One of the most common recipes for celeriac, especially in French cuisine is céleri rémoulade, which is a slaw of mandolined or julienned celeriac dressed in rémoulade, a mayonnaise-type sauce. You will also find celeriac prepared as creamy soups or puréed side dishes that resemble mashed potatoes. Though I love céleri rémoulade, since it is now fall, I chose to prepare a classic rendition of cream of celeriac soup. The accompanying recipe for herbed crostini makes a nice complement. Serve the soup as a start to an elegant holiday dinner. The celery flavor awakens the palate in preparation for more food to come.



The thing that turns most people off from cooking with celeriac is the seemingly daunting task of peeling. It's not hard at all when dealt with in small chunks. Cut the celeriac into quarters and then peel it. Use a pairing knife to remove stubborn knotty spots. While working on the root, it's a good idea to add it to acidulated water to keep the lovely white from oxidizing. Do the same with the potato. I also do a few tricks to keep the soup white. I use a bouquet garni for the whole peppercorns, herbs, and bay leaf. This way you won't find any specks in the soup. A touch of lemon juice and a small amount of cream added during cooking also helps the vegetable from discoloring.

This fall I'm participating in A Way to Garden's first Fall Fest, a continuation of Summer Fest. Every Wednesday a summer produce will be the theme. This Wednesday it's root vegetables. To participate all you have to do is something as simple as leaving a comment or linking to a favorite blog post or informational site. You can share gardening tips, recipes, and/or pictures. Visit the Fall Fest link for more information. Many other blogs are participating and it would be great to see how far the conversation goes.

Cream of Celeriac Soup

Note: When the lemon juice and cream are added to the soup, it will look curdled, but don't worry, once the soup is puréed and the remaining cream is added, it will all look well.

4 sprigs parsley
4 sprigs thyme
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 leek, white and light-green parts only, finely chopped
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
1 large celereric (celery root), peeled and cubed
1 medium russet potato, cubed
4 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup heavy cream
herbed crostini, recipe follows

Place parsley, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaf in a piece of cheesecloth and tie into a bundle.

Warm oil and butter in a large pot set over medium heat. Add garlic, leek, and onion; sauté until soft and translucent but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add celeriac and potato. Pour in chicken stock, lemon juice, and half the cream. Add bouquet garni. Bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until celeriac is tender, about 25 minutes. Remove bouquet garni and discard.

Using an immersion blender, purée the soup until silky smooth. Return the soup to the pot and warm. Stir in remaining cream. Season with salt and pepper. If desired, strain the soup through a fine-mesh sieve. Serve with herbed crostini. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Herbed Crostini

Note: This recipe uses a combination of chopped parsley and lovage for the herb topping. Celery leaves from celery stalks or celeriac greens, if you can find it, also work well.

6 tablespoons softened butter
fine sea salt
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1/4 cup chopped lovage
1/2 baguette, cut diagonally into 1/4-inch slices

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

In a small bowl, combine butter with parsley and lovage.

Place bread slices on a baking sheet and toast until light golden, about 5 minutes. Spread crostini with herbed butter.

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Coq au Riesling

One of the most classic dishes of French cuisine is coq au vin, that famous stew of rooster braised in red Burgundy wine. Really it does not have to be made from rooster, capon or chicken are just as much called for in traditional recipes. The practice of stewing meat in wine is very much ancient. Coq au vin traces its history back to Roman times when France was a part of Gaul, which combined most of western Europe. This dish doesn't rely on one type of wine. It can be made with any wine, and regions throughout France do make it with their local wines. The two best-known versions are made with Pinot Noir or Riesling.

The region of Alsace specializes in coq au Riesling. Food from this area has a slight German slant, since the province once belonged to Germany. Alsace is a very important wine-producing region, specializing in Riesling, recognized as some of the best all over the world. The wine is used in many traditional dishes such as baeckeoffe and of course coq au Riesling. Braising the meat in wine for a long period not only thoroughly flavors the meat, but it also helps make it particularly tender, especially if your using a tough old rooster.

Instead of using a rooster or even a whole chicken, I simply make this stew with thighs, which provide lots of flavor and hold up during the long cooking time. Classic versions of this recipe often start with rendering bacon for flavor and richness. I chose to skip that step to keep the dish a bit more light. There will, however, be lots of flavor and richness from the crème fraîche. The sauce is thickened with a traditional French technique of stirring in a butter-flour paste called beurre manié. It gives the finished sauce a wonderful thick viscosity. Serve the chicken over egg noddles, white rice, or the more traditional spätzle. Whichever you choose, you will be thoroughly pleased with this comforting meal.

Coq au Riesling

8 chicken thighs, skin on, trimmed of fat
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 tablespoons butter, divided
3 shallots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons Cognac or brandy
1 cup dry Riesling
1 cup chicken stock
8 ounces cremini mushrooms, stemmed, cut into eights
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley, for garnish

Liberally season chicken with salt and pepper. Warm oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a large deep pan or Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. Sear the chicken in batches until browned all over. Remove to a plate.

To the hot pan add shallots and garlic; sauté until soft, about 3 minutes. Deglaze pan with Cognac. Place the chicken back in the pan. Pour in wine and stock. Bring to a gentle boil. Lower to a fast simmer and cook, covered, until chicken is tender, about 45 minutes. Turn chicken once during cooking time.

Meanwhile, warm 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet set over medium heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until lightly browned.

Remove chicken to a plate and keep warm. Increase heat to high to reduce the sauce by a third. To thicken the sauce, knead the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and flour into a paste. Add to pan and stir constantly until the sauce thickens. Stir in crème fraîche and mushrooms. Check seasoning. Return chicken to pan and reheat. Serve over buttered egg noodles. Garnish with parsley. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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