Black-Eyed Pea and Kale Soup

New Year's would not be complete without the traditional foods that celebrate the start of a new year in a somewhat superstitious way. Many cultures eat foods that are symbolic of luck, progress, prosperity, and wealth. Ham and pork are often eaten because pigs root forward with their snouts. Stay away from chicken, because they scratch backward. Legumes double in size when cooked and thus represent prosperity. Lentils look like tiny coins. Leafy greens resemble paper money and symbolize wealth. Even if these food customs seem superstitious, they are rooted in culture, tradition, and history.

In the American South especially, black-eyed peas have a history that is important to remember. The legume has been grown in the South since Colonial times. It was originally domesticated thousands of years ago in Africa and arrived in America on slave ships. Black-eyed peas are a staple in soul food. Typical Southern New Year's foods include such dishes as black-eyed pea cakes and Hoppin' John, which is a combination of peas and rice with smoked pork. Boiled ham hocks and cooked greens, such as collard greens, mustard greens, or kale are also eaten. This simple soup holds true to tradition to include a bit of each symbolic food.

The recipe starts off with a stock made from flavorful ham hock. Peas, cooked in ham stock or water, along with kale are added toward the end of the cooking time. This ensures the beans are perfectly cooked, not mushy, and that the greens stay bright green, just like greenbacks. Not only is this meal symbolic of all of our hopes and wishes for the new year, but it's also very nutritious. Start the new year off right in every way that counts with a bowl of this "good luck" soup. Happy New Year!

Black-Eyed Pea and Kale Soup

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large carrot, diced
2 ribs celery, diced
8 cups ham stock
1 bay leaf
4 cups cooked black-eyed peas
1 bunch kale, stems removed, torn into pieces
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic; sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add carrot and celery, sauté an additional 5 minutes. Add ham stock and bay leaf, cover, and simmer until vegetables are tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Add black-eyed peas and kale. Continue to simmer until kale is wilted, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove bay leaf before serving. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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Prosecco: The Italian Sparkling Wine

There is no better way to celebrate a special event than with a glass of sparkling wine. All across the world people turn to sparkling wine in moments of great celebration, be it holidays, birthdays, or any momentous occasion. The French have Champagne, which is named after the region in which it is made. The Spanish have cava, which is named after the natural caves in which the wine ferments. Anywhere else we call wine that bubbles sparkling wine. Italy's version is Prosecco or what I like to call the wine of sheer joy.

Prosecco is a white wine made from grapes of the same name. It is one of the most armoatic wines that you will ever try. And its taste and finish are crisp, clean, and refreshing. This year I'm drinking Prosecco for New Year's Eve and I have many reasons why. It is affordable, extremely flavorful, very elegant, and it's easily a crowd-pleasing drink. Prosecco is a wine that not everyone is familiar with, but it is a wine that is easy to adore.

Prosecco is produced in the Veneto region of Italy, of which Venice is the capital. It originally was produced as a still wine, but somewhere along the way fermentation was introduced into the process, and a sparkling wine was created. Today we would not recognize the original Prosecco as a sparkling wine, because the bubbles were very soft and delicate. Many Prosecco wines produced today have vigorous bubbles. The lightly sparkling version is called frizzante and the fully sparkling version is called spumante. Either is very nice. It's personal preference that dictates which you choose.

To achieve the bubbles in Prosecco, the wine is fermented in stainless-steel vats. This method, called Charmat, is very different from how French Champagne is produced, which is fermented in the bottle. Many sub-par sparkling wines are fermented in vats, but none has the unique qualities of Prosecco. The finished product is straw-colored with tiny bubbles and an aroma of citrus, peach, and melon. The flavor is crisp and clean and it's the type of wine that goes with pretty much every type of food. Enjoy it as an aperitif or pair it with a host of appetizers at your New Year's Eve party.

This year I picked up a bottle of Mionetto Prosecco, which is made in Treviso in the Veneto region. It is designated a D.O.C. wine, which means the wine's origin and name are officially protected. This designation is more commonly used today than previously before. This brut Prosecco is on the dry side of the sparkling wine spectrum, but the characteristic sweetness of the grapes is still discernible. The aroma is that of golden apple, pear, and white peach. The flavor is nutty and lemony. It makes for a great aperitif or appetizer to mild cheeses and prosciutto. This sparkling wine is truly an Italian favorite.

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Italian Fondue or Fonduta

With the blustery weather the Northern hemisphere is having right now, there are plenty of reasons to stay in and gather with family over holiday food. And for safety's sake, I just hope that is what most people are doing. There are many dishes that create a sense of togetherness, but none is as famous as fondue. This dish of melted cheese originates from the Alps. The Swiss popularized and designated it a national dish in the 1930s. It eventually crossed the pond and became extremely popular in suburban America during the 1960s. There are also French and Italian versions, like Fonduta, as it's called in Italy.

Fonduta is a specialty of Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. It is made with fontina, a young cow's milk cheese that melts much like mozzarella. Its taste is similar to other Alpine cheeses, like Gruyère and Emmental from Switzerland. The big difference between Swiss fondue and fonduta is that the Italian recipe does not include wine, garlic, or cornstarch as thickener. Instead fonduta is made with butter, milk, and egg yolks as thickener. It comes together much like custard and is made in a bain-marie, a double boiler. The final dish is richly flavored and silken. It's ideal for a communal gathering of family or a New Year's Eve party with friends. Just add a roaring fire, and complete the Alpine feel.

This recipe is pretty much traditional. My extra touch is a bit of Cayenne pepper to add heat to the back of the throat. The classic Italian finishing touch is a shaving of white truffle. But since that is out of practically everyone's monetary reach, I would recommend a drizzle of truffle oil instead. Serve the fonduta with crostini, which are toasted bread slices, and boiled fingerling potatoes, which are just the right size to dip in and eat in one bite. Baby pickles, called cornichon in French, are also very nice to serve alongside, as they cut through the richness of the cheese. Stay warm at home with a bowl of cheesy, creamy Italian fondue.

Fonduta

3 large egg yolks
3/4 cup plus 1/4 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons butter
8 ounces fontina cheese, diced
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 teaspoon Cayenne pepper
toasted crostini, for serving
cornichon, for serving
boiled fingerling potatoes, for serving

In a measuring cup, beat together egg yolks. Add 3/4 cup milk and whisk until combined. Season with salt and Cayenne.

In a medium bowl set over a pot of simmering water, melt butter. Add a portion of the milk mixture and a handful of cheese. Whisk until melted. Keep adding a little bit of the milk mixture and the cheese until all the ingredients are melted and incorporated.

At this point, if the mixture seems too thick, like yogurt, add 1/4 cup milk. The final consistency should be like heavy cream and coat the back of a spoon.

Pour fonduta into a heated earthenware bowl or a fondue pot set over a burner. Serve immediately alongside toasted crostini and bowls of cornichon and boiled potatoes. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp

I always like to put the word "easy" before the word "entertaining," because I think entertaining should be easy, fuss-free, and uncomplicated, especially for the host or hostess. Making foods that are easy to put together, simple in their essence, and even easier to clean up are the key when entertaining on easy street. That the holidays are still in full swing and New Year's is just around the corner means that there is still time to flex your easy entertaining muscles. Any recipe that can go under the broiler and be done in minutes is my kind of easy. This shrimp hors d'ouevre is just that.

We all are familiar with the old-school appetizers of bacon-wrapped chicken livers, scallops, or dates. Well, there's also bacon-wrapped shrimp. Basically anything wrapped in bacon tastes good, right? These shrimp are jacketed in strips of flavorful applewood-smoked bacon. A dusting of hot paprika also adds to the smoky flavor of the finished bar bite. Clean-up is also made simpler since the pan is lined with foil. These hors d'ouevre are great for parties, especially on New Year's eve. They pair well with a variety of cocktails or a simple glass of bubbly. Now wasn't that entertaining made easy?

Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp

1 pound medium shrimp (about 30), shelled and deveined
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon hot or smoked paprika
5 slices applewood-smoked bacon, cut into 30 strips
30 bamboo cocktail skewers, soaked in water

Preheat broiler to high. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil.

Season shrimp with pepper and paprika. Wrap each shrimp with a small 2-1/2-inch strip of bacon. (One slice of bacon can yield about 6 strips.) Carefully thread with skewer, making sure to pierce through tail of shrimp and bacon. Place skewered shrimp in same direction on prepared baking sheet. Cover exposed skewers with a band of aluminum foil.

Place under broiler for about 2 minutes. Remove pan and turn shrimp over. Reposition band of aluminum foil. Return to broiler for another 2 to 3 minutes or until shrimp are bright pink and bacon looks crisp. Pat shrimp with paper towels before setting on a platter. Serve immediately. Yield: 6 to 8 appetizer servings.

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Cashew Linzer Cookie Wreaths with Apricot Jam

Some of the best pastries and sweets come from eastern Europe and I'm not just saying that because my family is Hungarian. Though I am biased. The Linzertorte is one of the most famous treats in Austria and Hungary. It's basically a lattice-topped tart made of pastry crust that is filled with jam, either apricot, raspberry, or plum. Linzer cookies are the miniature version. These little round sandwiched cookies have such a festive look. Cut them out with a fluted cookie cutter and they take on the look of Christmas wreaths. Dusting them with powdered sugar is practically required to give them a true winter wonderland look.

Traditional Linzer cookies include ground nuts in the dough. This recipe does not make an exception. Instead of the traditional ground hazelnuts or almonds, I use ground cashews, which creates a cookie that is super soft and buttery in texture. The combination of cashews and apricot jam brings to mind one of my favorite sandwiches from Bouchon Bakery called the CB&J (cashew butter and apricot jam). Like a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, but even better, the CB&J hits all the comfort spots. I recreate that blissful flavor match in these delicate cookies for a slight twist on tradition.

Cashew Linzer Cookie Wreaths with Apricot Jam

Note: Cashew flour can be found in specialty health food markets or online. Almond flour can also be substituted.

3/4 cup finely ground cashews or cashew flour
2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup light-brown sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
apricot jam

In a medium bowl, whisk together dry ingredients: ground cashews, flour, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add egg and vanilla extract; mix until combined. Add the dry ingredients a little at a time on low speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Mix until combined. Form dough into two disks and wrap in plastic. Chill for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line baking sheets with oven-safe parchment paper or Silpats.

Roll out one disk of dough between two pieces of plastic wrap to 1/4 inch thick. Keep second disk in refrigerator until ready to roll. Chill rolled dough for 20 minutes. Cut out cookies using a 1-1/4-inch fluted round cookie cutter and transfer to lined baking sheet, arranging no more than 1 inch apart. Cut out centers of half the cookies using a 3/4-inch round cookie cutter. Reshape scraps of dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and keep in refrigerator until ready to roll again.

Bake cookies until golden, about 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool completely. Spread cookie bottoms with about 1 teaspoon of jam and cover with top, squeezing together and removing any excess that comes out. Yield: 24 sandwiched cookies.

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Feast of the Seven Fishes Cioppino

In many European cultures, it's tradition to eat seafood on Christmas Eve. My family's Hungarian traditions always had us eating some sort of fried fish or stew. Italians particularly hold this tradition to the extreme, eating anywhere from 7 to 13 different types of seafood dishes for dinner. It's called the Feast of the Seven Fishes. The odd numbers have symbolic meaning in both Catholicism and numerology. Seven represents the seven sacraments—and sins. In numerology, seven represents perfection. I find that seafood stews are some of the most hearty and satisfying of all the fish dishes. One seafood stew that I find most special is Cioppino, a true Italian-American invention.

Created by Italian immigrants in San Francisco, Cioppino was first made out of necessity. The Italian fisherman made it for lunch on their boats with whatever catch of that day. Now Cioppino has become so famous that it can be found on restaurant menus throughout San Francisco and beyond. Supposedly the word Cioppino comes from the word ciuppin, which in the Ligurian dialect means "to chop," since the seafood that goes into the stew is typically cut into manageable pieces. But the soup/stew can contain more than just chopped fish. Clams, mussels, and other shellfish make great additions, rounding out the wonderful sea flavor of this tomato-based soup.

This recipe has no less than seven types of seafood, including clams, mussels, crab, scallops, tilapia, catfish, and shrimp. The base begins with sauteing onions and fennel. The pot is deglazed with a bit of the star anise liqueur Pernod along with white wine. These anise flavors are a wonderful complement to seafood. I follow tradition and do not crack the crab or shell the shrimp. Of course this makes for a bit of messy eating, but more flavor is extracted from the seafood. Don't forget to serve this stew with sourdough bread, a San Franciscan specialty. Not only is this seafood stew symbolically appropriate for this Christmas Eve dinner, but it's also undoubtedly delicious.

Feast of the Seven Fishes Cioppino

3 tablespoons olive oil
2 yellow onions, finely chopped
1 large fennel bulb, cored and thinly sliced, fronds reserved for garnish
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
coarse salt
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon crushed red-pepper flakes
1/4 cup Pernod
1-1/2 cups dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice
2 cups clam juice (from 2 8-ounce bottles)
5 cups fish stock or water
1 bay leaf
12 little neck clams (about 1 to 1-1/2 pounds), scrubbed
24 mussels (about 1 pound), scrubbed and debearded
1 (1-pound) King crab leg (defrosted, if frozen), scrubbed and cut into 3-inch sections
1 pound scallops (about 12), abductor muscle removed
1 pound assorted firm, white-fleshed fish fillets, such as tilapia, catfish, halibut, and/or cod, cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces
1 pound medium shrimp (about 30), deveined, shells intact
Sourdough bread, for serving

Warm oil in a vary large pot over medium heat. Add onions, fennel, and garlic. Season with salt. Sauté until vegetables are soft and translucent, about 10 minutes. Add red-pepper flakes. Stir in tomato paste. Add Pernod and wine and bring to a boil. Simmer vigorously for 5 minutes to cook off alcohol.

Add tomatoes with their juice, clam juice, fish stock, and bay leaf. Bring back to a simmer. Reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Check seasoning.

Add clams, mussels, and crab. Cover and cook until clams and mussels begin to open, about 5 minutes.

Season scallops, fish, and shrimp with salt and nestle in stew. Cover and cook just until scallops and fish have turned opaque and shrimp pink, about 5 minutes. Check seasoning. Stir very carefully so not to break up fish.

To serve, divide seafood into bowls and ladle over with broth and vegetables. Garnish with fennel fronds and serve with sourdough bread. Yield: 6 servings.

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Mulled Wine and Tea

Warm yourself from head to toe with a hot drink on a blustery day like today. Mulled wine does that and more. Popularized in Germany and Scandinavia, mulled wine has been a holiday favorite for hundreds of years. Christmas markets in cities and towns all over Europe swell with shoppers who turn to mulled wine when they want to warm up their chilly fingers and toes. It really does have the effect of rosying cheeks and making spirits bright. Mulled wine is typically made with a good dry wine sweetened with sugar and flavored with various spices, including cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, among others.

In old fashioned times, wine was mulled to take away its foul or spoiled taste. The tradition was born out of practicality. But that is no longer the case. Use good but inexpensive wine for this drink. There's no reason to set the bank back when the flavor will come mostly from the spices you add. My version is based on a drink my father enjoyed. He used to love adding red wine to a cup of tea. It was his drink for when he needed to warm up after coming in from the cold outdoors, especially after we explored the wilderness together.

This recipe is not your knock-you-out variety. It's a bit more tame and friendly. I start with a strong brew of tea, either Earl Grey or Assam, which I simmer with sugar, orange rind and juice, and the spices: cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, star anise, and cardamom. I pour in the wine and simmer just until it's hot. Any longer would lose all the alcohol, which is the key if you expect to get a bit of buzz after drinking this concoction. The tea adds a more complex flavor and keeps the drink from getting way too potent. It's not traditional, but it's my new custom for mulling wine.

Mulled Wine and Tea

3 cups strong brewed tea
3/4 cup sugar
1 orange, peel and juice
2 sticks cinnamon, plus more for garnish
12 gratings nutmeg
5 cloves
2 star anise
5 cardamom pods
1 750-ml bottle dry red wine, such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon

Bring the tea to a simmer in a medium pot. Add orange peel and juice, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, and cardamom. Simmer gently until the sugar is dissolved and the orange rind has taken on the color of the wine, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the wine and bring the mixture to a simmer. Ladle the mulled wine into mugs and add a cinnamon stick to each for a stirrer. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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Coconut Shortbread Snowflake Cookies

Baking season is in full swing and it seems that everywhere you turn there are cookies. Everyone loves biting into a sugary Christmas cookie. But I think the best part about cookies is making them yourself, and getting kids and even the adults involved. Baking batches of all different types of cookies is my specialty at Christmas. I bring them to parties at the office and share them with neighbors and friends. I always have some on hand for when people stop by to visit, which can happen quite often during the holidays.

There are so many ways to get involved in the holiday baking fun. Hosting a cookie-baking party is a great way to bring people together. Everyone can decorate their own cookies to eat and take home. Cookie swap parties also have recently become very popular. They offer the opportunity to show off your personal creations and share them with friends. The best part is guests get to go home with a variety of cookies all ready for them to share with their families.

Buttery shortbread cookies are my favorite to eat and make. They are easy to cut out and they don't lose their shape when baked. This recipe is basically shortbread dough but with coconut flakes for added festive flair. Coconut easily takes any sweet treat to the next level. Here shredded coconut is ground fine until it resembles snowflakes. Mixed into the dough, it creates a speckled cookie. Cut them out with snowflake cookie cutters, and they truly take on the look of snowflakes. Decorating with a bit of raw sugar adds to the wintry look. Share these with family, friends, and neighbors.

Coconut Shortbread Snowflake Cookies

1 cup loosely packed sweetened flaked coconut
2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup raw turbinado sugar or sanding sugar, for decorating

Add coconut to the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until flakes are finely ground. In a medium bowl, whisk together dry ingredients: coconut flakes, flour, baking powder, and salt.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add egg and vanilla extract; mix until combined. Add the dry ingredients a little at a time on low speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Mix until combined. Form dough into two disks and wrap in plastic. Chill for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line three baking sheets with parchment paper or Silpats.

Roll out one disk of dough between two pieces of plastic wrap to 1/4 inch thick. Keep second disk in refrigerator until ready to roll. Chill rolled dough for 20 minutes. Cut out cookies using a 3-inch snowflake cookie cutter or a 4-inch snowflake cookie cutter with a 1-1/2-inch snowflake cookie cutter for the center. Carefully transfer cookies using a metal spatula to lined baking sheets, arranging an inch apart. Reshape scraps of dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and keep in refrigerator until ready to roll again.

To decorate cookies with sugar, brush with a bit of water and sprinkle with turbinado sugar or sanding sugar.

Bake cookies until golden, about 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool slightly in pan and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Yield: about 60 cookies in various sizes.

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Honey Gingerbread Cookies

Christmas is not complete without gingerbread, be it houses, cookies, cake, or any dessert flavored with those warm spices of ground ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg. The dense spicy cake traces its roots to 11th century Europe. There are so many versions from eastern Europe all the way to Scandinavia, but I'm focusing on the cookie. In Germany there is Lebkuchen and Pfeffernüsse. In Hungary, gingerbread cookies are called Puszedli. They look just like Lebkuchen, but are smaller. Polish Pierniki are also quite special cookies. The town of Toruń is famous for their heart-shaped cookies, filled with jam and covered in chocolate. These cookies all share similar ingredients and flavors.

Puszedli and Lebkuchen are made with honey and have a lighter color than the gingerbread cookies Americans are familiar with. The traditional decoration is a whole almond pressed into each cookie. Then the cookies are brushed with a sugary glaze that gives them a wintry look. But since neither cookie has almonds in the dough, I forgo the nut decoration and keep them simple. I make the classic round cookies and heart cookies to mimic the Polish treats. But if you're so inclined to decorate the cookies with nuts, walnut halves are traditional with Puszedli. Pecan halves, for an American twist, would do the trick just as well.

These cookies, as with all gingerbread, are best made ahead of the holiday. They get better and softer with age. Keep them in a sealed container. They are also great for gift-giving when packaged in candy tins. The flavor of the cookie is up to your taste, but I like a combination of exotic spices with ginger being the foremost important. Ground black pepper would also make a unique addition. I love adding ground cardamom to the mix as it adds a very aromatic scent. For this Christmas I'm baking batches of cookies in advance so when the time comes I can give out packages of them to friends and neighbors.

Honey Gingerbread Cookies

2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 large egg
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup honey
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar, for glaze

In a large bowl, combine the dry ingredients: flour, baking powder, and spices. Whisk to aerate.

In a medium bowl, beat together egg and sugar until pale and frothy. Beat in melted butter and honey. Pour wet ingredients into dry and fold until just combined. Form dough into a disk and wrap in plastic. Chill for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or Silpats.

Roll dough between two sheets of plastic wrap or parchment paper to 1/4-inch thick. Using a 2-inch cookie cookie cutter or small heart cookie cutter, cut out shapes and transfer to rimmed baking sheets, spacing 1-inch apart. Bake until pale golden, about 15 to 17 minutes. Let cool completely.

In a small bowl combine confectioners' sugar with 2 tablespoons water and mix until smooth and free of lumps. Brush each cookie with glaze and place on a wire rack to dry completely. Store cookies in a sealed container up to 1 month. Yield: 45 cookies.

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Pink and Green Peppercorn Biscuits

Most American households have biscuits or rolls with dinner, but my family never really had that as a custom. Of course we did have bread available for those who wanted it, but I was never really a bread person. Though I do love a good slice of crusty French bread, I never eat bread with dinner. I do, however, love the Hungarian version of biscuits, pogácsa (po-gah-cha), which are like savory scones enjoyed more as an appetizer than a side dish to dinner. Traditionally, pogácsa are enjoyed with beer or a glass of wine. But they also go well with most cocktails, including the dry or bitters-based ones made with gin, whiskey, or vodka. They are perfect for a holiday cocktails party with friends.

Pogácsa are typically made of short dough or sometimes yeast dough. The name is rooted in the Latin panis focacius, which means bread baked on a hearth. The breads, Italian focaccia and French fougasse also share the same Latin root. Slovakia and Turkey have recipes for pogácsa that are similar to the Hungarian variety. But in my opinion there are no more flavorful biscuits than pogácsa, which are traditionally made with pork crackling, bacon fat, or lard. Some recipes for pogácsa are made with grated cheese and butter. These are some of the best you will ever taste. In Hungary or, if you're lucky, at your local Hungarian meat market like the one in New York, you can purchase pogácsa. Butchers bake a pretty good batch. My mom's recipe was what I grew up on, but now I continue the tradition with my own rendition for the bar-snack favorite.

The thing with biscuits and their cousins, scones, is that they are super easy to make in mere minutes. You're all set as long as you have some fat on hand. I always have leftover bacon fat from Saturday morning breakfasts. Pogácsa can be flavored with many different spices, such as ground caraway or hot paprika. I like to flavor mine with lots of pepper. As a lover of all things peppery, I keep a jar of each kind of peppercorn on my spice rack. For a colorful holiday rendition, I use pink and green peppercorns, which have more of a fruity flavor than black peppercorns. Lots of salt is also a must in pogácsa, plus a sprinkling of course salt just as the biscuits go in the oven isn't a bad idea either.

Pink and Green Peppercorn Biscuits

3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 teaspoons cracked pink peppercorns
1 1/2 teaspoons cracked green peppercorns
1 cup cold bacon fat or lard
1 cup sour cream
1 large egg, beaten, for egg wash
coarse salt, for sprinkling

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or Silpats.

Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cracked peppers in a large bowl. Using a pastry blender, cut in the fat until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Fold in the sour cream.

Turn the mixture out onto a floured board and knead just until the dough comes together. Pat into a rectangle and roll to 1/2-inch thick.

Cut rounds using a 2-inch biscuit cutter and place an inch apart on baking sheets. Reroll scraps and cut out remaining rounds. Using a sharp knife or razor blade, draw crosshatches on the biscuit tops. Brush with egg wash. Sprinkle with coarse salt. Bake until golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Yield: 30 biscuits.

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Roasted Honey-Dijon Pork Tenderloins with Lady Apples and Rosemary

Pork and apples go hand in hand, don't they? That image of a whole spit-roasted pig comes to mind with the apple stuck in its mouth. There is something special about the sweet taste of apples and the full flavor of pork that work so well together in a dish. Roasting the pork and apples together is the perfect way to marry the two flavors. That's exactly what I do in this pork roast recipe, which is flavored with honey, mustard, and rosemary. For this perfect flavor pairing, I roast tiny lady apples alongside the pork.

For a roast like this, pork tenderloin is the easiest to prepare and the most flavorful and moist. It's lean, roasts fast, and it stays tender, just as the name would suggest. The juices that collect in the pan go into the making of a gravy that has the flavor of the honey-Dijon rub, the rosemary, and the sweet apple juices. The rosemary sprigs that roast alongside the loins become crispy and are entirely edible, lending bursts of woddsy flavor to each bite. A meal such as this would be great for an elegant holiday dinner or even a simple Sunday supper.



Lady apples are an heirloom variety of small apples that are sweet and slightly tart. Supposedly they are one of the oldest apple varieties, dating back to biblical times. They were cultivated in Europe and made it to North America during Colonial times. The lady apple was considered a Christmas specialty as it ripened late in the season and stored very well through winter. What makes them great in this recipe is they bake fast either whole or cut in half. But cutting them and roasting them cut-side down helps them caramelize, adding more flavor to this wonderful pork roast.

Roasted Honey-Dijon Pork Tenderloins with Lady Apples and Rosemary

Note: If you can't find lady apples for this recipe, any apple cut into wedges would work fine. I would recommend pink lady apples, which taste most like lady apples.

2 pork tenderloins (about 2 to 3 pounds total), trimmed of fat and silver skin
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper
1 teaspoon coarse salt
2 tablespoons canola oil
6 sprigs rosemary
12 lady apples (about 2 pounds), halved
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons flour
2 cups chicken stock or water, heated

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Combine mustard, honey, minced rosemary, salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon oil in a small bowl. Brush tenderloins with mixture and place on a large rimmed baking sheet or shallow roasting pan. Lay rosemary sprigs around pork. Roast for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, toss the lady apples in lemon juice, then drizzle with remaining tablespoon oil. Remove the pork from the oven and arrange apple halves cut-side down around loins. Return pan to oven and lower heat to 375 degrees F. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer, inserted into the thickest part of one loin, reads between 135 and 140 degrees F. Carefully remove apple halves to a plate. Remove pork loins to a carving board and tent with foil. Let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, place roasting pan over medium heat. Add flour to pan juices and cook, stirring until a thick, slightly darkened paste forms. Pour heated stock, a little at a time, whisking until gravy forms. Cook for 5 minutes to reduce slightly. Check for seasoning. Slice pork 1/2-inch thick. Spoon gravy over pork. Serve with lady apples and rosemary. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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Hungarian Goulash Soup or Gulyás

The essential Hungarian comfort foods are soups and stews, and the single most famous one is called Goulash or Gulyás in Hungarian. Many consider it a soup, others a stew. If I could borrow a term from Rachael Ray, I'd call it a stoup, because it really is a cross between the two. There are so many different ways to make Goulash. Every Hungarian mother will make it with a slight variation. The authentic recipe is the one that is still made today in Hortobágy, part of the Great Plains in eastern Hungary. The cattle herdsman perfected the soup/stew of mainly beef and potatoes, all flavored with that rusty red paprika.

In Hortobágy, Goulash is cooked in a large cauldron (bogrács) over an open fire. It's the kind of meal that sticks to your bones, fueling the hard-working men of the plains. In fact the term Gulyás translates to cattleman or herdsman. They herd the famous Hungarian Grey cattle. Much of Hortobágy is designated a national park and serves as a tourist attraction in Hungary. The area is also famous for its cowboys, known as csikó, who ride and tame the horses of the plains. After a long day on the plains, what could be more comforting than a hot bowl of Goulash? It's the kind of food that's made for winter weather.

The most popular version of Goulash comes from Szeged, which is the third largest city in Hungary and the central city of the Great Plains area. The Szegedi version includes potatoes and lots of vegetables. Typically that is the way Goulash is also made at home. The soup is often made with pork instead of beef, which can be expensive. There's quite a difference in taste between pork and beef Goulash, but either is wonderful. If you want complete authenticity, Goulash should be started with pork fat anyway. The Austrians also have a Goulash of their own, Wiener Saftgulasch. But this is a thick stew of just beef. In Hungarian it would be called pörkölt, which is the word for stew.

This recipe for Goulash soup is based on my mom's, which is what I grew up on. Her way of making Goulash sears the meat first. Traditionally, the onions are cooked first, then the paprika is added, and then the meat. By searing the meat first, a richer flavor and color is extracted. Once the meat simmers for well over an hour, the vegetables are added. This way nothing overcooks. Carrots, parsley root and leaves, celery root, and potatoes are a must. Celery stalks don't tend to hold up, so I leave them out entirely. Handmade pasta called csipetke (like mini spätzle) can be added, but I like Goulash plain and simple. For a nod to authenticity, I serve the soup in a mini cauldron, but a regular soup bowl would work too.

Hungarian Goulash Soup or Gulyás

Note: For some added heat in the soup, a hot wax pepper is simmered along with the other vegetables. It's purely optional. For even more heat, a touch of hot ground paprika or hot paprika paste can be switched out for the sweet ground or sweet paste.

2 tablespoons canola oil
2 pounds beef shank, cut into 1-1/4-inch chunks
2 yellow onions, cubed
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 tablespoon ground sweet paprika
6 cups water
1 teaspoon sweet paprika paste or tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon ground caraway seed
1 hot wax Paprika or Serrano chile pepper (optional)
1 large carrot, peeled and cubed
1 parsley root, peeled and cubed
1/4 celery root, peeled and cubed
2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 medium tomato, peeled, seeded, and chopped
6 sprigs parsley

Heat oil in a heavy bottomed 6-quart saucepan or Dutch oven set over medium-high. Sear beef in batches until brown all over. Remove to a plate.

Add onions and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté 1 minutes. Add paprika and sauté 1 minute.

Return beef to the pan. Pour in water and scrape up brown bits on the bottom. Stir in paprika cream and add caraway. Season with salt and pepper. Bring liquid to a gentle boil. Cover, reduce to a simmer, and cook until beef is tender, about 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

Cut a slit into the Paprika and add. Add carrot, parsley root, and celery root; cook about 20 minutes. Add potatoes, tomato, and parsley sprigs; cook until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes more. Check seasoning. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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Bangers and Mash with Red-Wine Gravy and Frizzled Leeks

One of the things that has stuck with me most from my trip to England some years ago was the unique names used for many traditional British dishes. There is bubble and squeak, which is potatoes and cabbage cooked together. Toad in the hole is a dish of sausages baked in a batter. Spotted dick is a bread pudding with raisins, drowned in custard. And one of my favorites is bangers and mash, sausages with mashed potatoes. All these dishes are commonly served in pubs all around England.

Traditionally, bangers and mash uses pork sausage or long coiled Cumberland sausage, slathered in a rich onion gravy. It's a classic homey meal that never fails to satisfy a hearty appetite. Nowadays, for the sake of reinvention, there are some gourmet incarnations. Other types of sausages can be used and the gravy can vary. Sometimes, it's served with fried onions. My first time tasting the dish was at a restaurant in Brighton that served a Frenchified version with a red wine sauce and a topping of fried leeks. It was probably one of the best versions of the dish I had during my time studying abroad.

This recipe is my attempt at recreating that fateful dish. My sauce though is more like a classic gravy with a little wine added for flavor and color. I also fry a julienned leek, which adds a slight onion flavor as well as some interesting texture to the finished dish. The mashed potatoes couldn't be any more authentic with simply butter and cream. It's a comforting meal made for hearty eaters, a perfect winter stick-to-your ribs kind of meal.

Bangers and Mash with Red-Wine Gravy and Frizzled Leeks

for the frizzled leeks:
2 small leeks
canola oil
fine sea salt

for the mash:
2 pounds Russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
fine sea salt
4 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup heavy cream

for the bangers and red-wine gravy:
canola oil
6 pork sausages
2 large shallots, minced
1 cup dry red wine
2 cups chicken broth
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon flour
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

To make frizzled leeks, trim leeks, discarding roots and greens. Cut into 2-inch lengths. Cut in half lengthwise and slice into julienne strips. Rinse in a colander under running water. Pat dry between paper towels.

Warm 1 to 2 inches of oil in a large pot set over medium-high heat. The temperature of the oil should register around 350 degrees F.

Once oil is hot, fry leeks in batches for 1/2 minute. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a tray lined with paper towels to drain. Season with salt.

To make mashed potatoes, add cubed potatoes to saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil; lower to a simmer. Cook until knife tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain potatoes. Mash with butter. Add cream a little at a time, until mixture is smooth.

While potatoes boil, cook the sausages. Warm 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet or sauté pan set over medium-high heat. Sear the sausages all over until brown. Remove to a plate. Wipe out pan. Refresh pan with 1 tablespoon oil. Add shallots, sauté until translucent, about 3 to 5 minutes. Deglaze pan with wine. Add broth and bring to a boil. Return sausages and any juices to pan. Reduce to a simmer. Cook, covered, until sausages are cooked through, about 15 to 20 minutes.

To make gravy, remove sausages to a plate. Increase heat to high to reduce the gravy by a third. To thicken, knead butter and flour into a paste. Add to pan and stir constantly until the sauce thickens. Continue to cook for a few minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Return sausages to pan and rewarm.

To serve, place a spoonful of mash on each plate. Add 1 or 2 sausages. Spoon gravy over bangers and mash. Garnish with frizzled leeks. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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