Cara Cara Oranges with Yogurt and Pistachios

It's amazing just to think of how many different varieties of citrus fruit exist. I only heard about these lovely pink Cara Cara Navel oranges recently. A result of a genetic mutation of the standard Navel orange (which in itself is a result of a genetic mutation), Cara Caras have typical orange skin, but feature a rosy salmon-colored flesh. What differentiates Cara Caras is their lower acid content and milder taste. Still they are pleasantly sweet and have a flavor reminiscent of cherries and berries.

These oranges are just perfect on their own, but pairing them with yogurt creates a simple parfait-style dessert that's light, creamy, and refreshing. Greek yogurt makes up the bottom layer. Sliced Cara Cara oranges are layered on next. A syrup made from the juice and honey gets drizzled over. And finally crushed pistachios add crunch, color, and even more exotic flavor. Serve it as a light dessert after dinner or enjoy it for breakfast even.



It takes a little hunting to find Cara Cara oranges. Originating from Venezuela, they are also grown in California, which makes them easier to transport and find here in the States. From January through April, find them in specialty markets or even supermarkets. I was lucky to find them at my supermarket. Now that these unique citrus varieties are sought by shoppers, stores are more willing to stock them. If you've exhausted all outlets and absolutely can't find them, standard Navel oranges would work fine in this recipe. But seeking out Cara Caras is worth the adventure, just short of going to Venezuela.

Cara Cara Oranges with Yogurt and Pistachios

3 Cara Cara oranges
1/4 cup honey
2 cups Greek yogurt
1/4 cup coarsely chopped pistachios

Slice off either end and the skin of two oranges and cut flesh crosswise to create rounds. Juice the remaining orange. Combine the juice and honey. Divide the yogurt among four glasses. Layer 3 to 4 orange rounds per glass. Drizzle over with orange-honey mixture. Top each glass with pistachios. Yield: 4 servings.

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Watercress and Minneola Tangelo Salad

There is probably no other fruit more versatile than citrus. Most people would assume citrus fruit, because it's sweet, can only be used in desserts. But citrus is great in both sweet and savory recipes. Just think of lemons, which are widely used in Mediterranean cuisine. And oranges, too, are often used in savory recipes. Citrus juice also makes a flavorful marinade and tenderizer for meats. I love oranges in salads, especially when they are paired with Asian flavors in the form of a dressing. This salad features peppery watercress, flaked almonds for crunch, and tangelos, which lend wonderful flavor and juiciness.

My love for citrus fruit continues this week with tangelos. You have probably heard of tangerines, so that is half the story behind tangelos, which are a genetic cross between grapefruits and tangerines. The most popular variety is the Minneola, named after the city in Flordia. The fruit features a knobby stem end and has easy-to-peel skin and juicy flesh. The flavor and aroma of tangelos are very unique, not too sweet and exotically subtle. I've only been familiar with tangelos for a few years now, but I've come to love eating them almost immediately. Their juice is what makes them so renowned.



The juice gets put to good use in the dressing, a very simple 1:1:1 ratio of rice vinegar, flavorless oil (such as grapeseed), and tangelo juice. Ginger and sesame oil add the depth of flavor. When supreming the tangelos, make sure to remove all the pith but none of the flesh. Cut off either end and simply slice along the shape of the fruit. Cut into segments between each membrane. Squeeze the remaining core to get the juice. This salad would make a nice starter to any dinner. It can also be enjoyed for lunch along with a protein like chicken. It's a wonderful way to enjoy this versatile citrus fruit.

Watercress and Minneola Tangelo Salad

Note: To refresh languid watercress, soak it submerged in cool water for a few hours. Or, if not using immediately, keep it submerged in water in the refrigerator up to 2 days. Spin dry when ready to use.

3 tablespoons rice vinegar
3 tablespoons tangelo juice
3 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon grated ginger
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 large bunch watercress
2 tangelos, supremed
1/4 cup sliced almonds

Combine the vinegar, tangelo juice, oils, and ginger in a large bowl. Whisk to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

Toss the watercress in the dressing and divide among four plates. Nestle tangelo segments into greens. Top with almonds. Yield: 4 appetizer servings.

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Preserved Lemons

My one favorite thing about the winter season is citrus fruit. When I have a good lemon or orange in hand, I almost forget about the mountains of snow and the blistery weather. I always seek out unusual citrus fruits, from Meyer lemons to blood oranges. But the one citrus fruit I use most is the standard lemon. The ones available in the supermarket are typically the Eureka variety. I use those juicy yellow orbs in practically every recipe. Salad dressings, baked goods, and stews all benefit from a little lemon, be it the juice or zest. The aroma and flavor of lemons are what make them so special and revered in many cuisines.

Luckily we can get lemons year-round in the supermarket, but there are also ways to preserve them. Many cultures preserve lemons when they are in season for later use during the rest of the year. North African cuisine, particularly Moroccan, and even Indian and Southeast Asian cuisines utilize preserved lemons in many savory recipes. They are added to the famous Moroccan tagines. They are also great in standard stews, braises, and roasts. Just as with the fresh citrus fruit, the possibilities are limitless with preserved lemons.

As with old-fashioned canning, lemons are preserved in a salt brine. After a month, the lemons are ready to use. It's a good idea to rinse each lemon before using. Both the rind and flesh can be used, but mainly the rind is preferred. It can be minced or sliced and added directly to recipes. Preserved lemons have an intense lemon flavor, so a little goes a long way. Bring a bit of the exotic to your cooking with preserved lemons. Stay tuned for recipes a month from now.

Preserved Lemons

Note: Make sure to scrub the lemons very well to remove any wax coating. Or purchase unwaxed lemons.

7 lemons, 6 quartered, 1 juiced
1/2 cup Kosher salt

Layer lemon quarters and salt in a 1-quart canning jar, preferably one with a wire and glass enclosure. Use a wooden spoon to press the lemons down into the jar to release their juices. If there is room, add the remainder of the juiced lemon. Top off with lemon juice to ensure the lemons are submerged in liquid. Cover with the lid and jostle gently to dissolve the salt. Set the jar aside in a cool, dark spot for 3 to 4 weeks.

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Chicken Paprikash or Paprikás Csirke

It's well known that paprika is the famous spice of Hungary. What I think most people don't realize is that the red powder is made from ripened peppers also called paprika. The word paprika means pepper in Hungarian, and I don't mean peppercorns, but rather the fruit or vegetable, depending on how you look at it. Hungarian sweet peppers are typically pale yellow to pale green in color when they are fresh. They can be eaten raw or cooked into many recipes. But when they ripen to bright red, they are dried and ground into the fine red powder known as paprika or what I like to call Hungarian gold.

Hungarian paprika (pronounced puh-pri-ka) is available in sweet, hot, and everything in between, with eight varieties altogether. Sweet paprika has a deeper red color whereas hot paprika is more rusty in color. The signature dish most famous for using paprika is chicken paprikash, a stew of chicken with an onion sauce richly colored and flavored with paprika. I grew up on paprikás csirke, as it is known in Hungarian. It is my comfort food, and that's exactly what it is for so many Hungarians and Hungarian-Americans. I consider it my favorite home-cooked dish. And, of course, no recipe rivals my mother's.

This is that recipe. It starts by searing chicken thighs to extract flavor. Once removed from the pan, lots of onions and a little garlic are added to sweat and help release the brown bits from the bottom of the pot. Chicken stock (or water) is added and the meat goes back in to simmer until tender. With the meat removed again, the onions get pureed and blended with a mixture of flour and sour cream that has been tempered with a bit of sauce. The result is a velvety rust-colored sauce, which is the key to creating this authentic homey dish. There is something so special about home cooking, because it reminds you of home. I'm glad to finally be sharing this recipe, because it means so much to me.

Chicken paprikash wouldn't be complete without nokedli, or spaetzle as it is known in German-speaking areas in Europe. The little pasta dumplings are made from a stiff dough of flour and eggs that is pressed through a grater or colander over a pot of boiling water to form little misshapen dumplings. You can also make them with a spaetzle maker. But another and more old-fashioned method would be to cut them by hand into thin stringy pieces, dropping them into boiling water as you go. If you're making this dish, don't leave out the nokedli, it just isn't paprikash without it.

Chicken Paprikash or Paprikás Csirke

8 chicken thighs, skin on, trimmed of fat
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 yellow onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons Hungarian paprika
4 cups chicken stock or water
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 cup sour cream
Nokedli, recipe follows
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley, for garnish

Warm oil in a large heavy bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Sear chicken in batches until brown all over. Remove to a plate. Pour off most of the fat in the pot.

Add onions and sauté until soft, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and paprika and toast 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. Add stock and scrape up any brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Add back the chicken. Bring to a gentle boil. Lower to a fast simmer and cook, covered, until chicken is tender, about 45 minutes. Turn chicken once during cooking time.

Remove chicken to a plate. Skin can be removed if you like. Increase heat to high to reduce the sauce by a third. Off from the heat, puree the sauce using an immersion blender. Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix together flour and sour cream until smooth. Add a ladleful of sauce to temper the mixture. Add to the pan and continue to blend until smooth. Check seasoning. Return chicken to pan and reheat. Serve with nokedli. Garnish with parsley. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Nokedli

4 cups all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon canola oil
1-1/4 cup water

Bring a large pot of liberally salted water to a boil.

In a large bowl, mix together flour, eggs, salt, oil, and water until a stiff, smooth batter forms.

Using a spatula, press the dough, a little at a time, through a grater or colander over the boiling water. Keep stirring to make sure the dumplings don't clump. Boil until they rise to the top, about 5 minutes. Drain and return to the pot. Toss with a drizzle of oil to prevent them sticking together.

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Chicken Enchiladas Suizas

Since I love pretty much all Mexican food, it would be hard for me to pick a favorite, but I particularly love any dish poured over with salsa verde, made of tomatillos. This fresh, slightly tart, and bright green sauce is so aromatic and flavorful, that you can't help but think of Mexico. Sometimes, though it's hard to differentiate between authentic Mexican and Tex-Mex recipes. Many foods that are popular in American culture are interpretations of Mexican foods. Just think of nachos, burritos, and chili. But no matter the actual origin of these foods, they all taste great due to the familiar Mexican flavors.

My favorite dish, enchiladas Suizas, isn't entirely Mexican either. But it's served at Mexican restaurants and is for all its worth considered authentic. As the story goes, Swiss immigrants brought their love of dairy products along with them to Mexico, where they opened dairies and began producing cheeses like the ones they knew back home. Somewhere along the line, the traditional dish of enchiladas, made with either red or green salsa, was reinterpreted using the Swiss cheese (Suizas means Swiss). The dish consists of corn tortillas wrapped around filling, then layered in a casserole, poured over with salsa verde, and covered with cheese. It's Mexican home-cooked comfort food at its best.

In this recipe I fill the tortillas with shredded rotisserie chicken from the market. It offers a quick and easy shortcut to getting this meal on the table in no time. You can also use your own roast or poached chicken. A combination of roast peppers, onions, and cheese also makes a traditional filling. Enchiladas are great for family dinner and make nice leftovers to eat for lunch at the office the next day. Try this dish at home and you will find it's easier and cheaper to make it yourself rather than going out.

For the rest of the month and a bit into March, I'll be posting on my favorite international comfort foods. These are foods I often seek out in restaurants but also find they can be made successfully at home.

Chicken Enchiladas Suizas

for the salsa verde:
1-1/2 pounds tomatillos
1 medium sweet onion, coarsely chopped
4 garlic cloves
2 jalapeños, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 bunch cilantro
1/4 cup mint leaves
fine sea salt

for the tortillas:
canola oil
2 roasted chicken breasts, shredded
12 6-inch corn tortillas
8 ounces Swiss or Monterey Jack cheese, shredded

for serving:
sour cream
thinly sliced red onion
cilantro leaves

To make the salsa, remove husks from tomatillos. Wash, core, and chop into small chunks. Add to blender and pulse until completely smooth. Add onion and garlic; blend until smooth. Add jalapeños, cilantro, and mint; blend until smooth. Pour into a saucepan and simmer over medium heat, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Brush a 9-by-13 baking dish or four gratin dishes with oil.

Spread a third of the salsa in the bottom of the baking dish. Warm the tortillas, one by one, over a gas flame or in a dry skillet until pliable. Add a small mound of shredded chicken to each tortilla, fold up, and place seam-side down in the baking dish. Once all the tortillas are arranged in the dish, pour over with half the remaining salsa. Save some salsa for serving. Scatter cheese on top. Bake until the cheese is melted and bubbling, about 30 minutes. Serve with additional salsa on the side. Top servings with sour cream, onion slices, and cilantro. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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Chocolate-Hazelnut Sandwich Cookie Hearts

The classic combination of chocolate and hazelnut paste, called gianduja in Italian, is my absolute favorite way to enjoy chocolate. It was Invented in Turin, Italy in the middle of the 19th century. Ferrero, one of the most famous brands that manufactures it, sells it as Nutella. In Europe it's as popular as peanut butter is here in the States. I'm addicted to it and spread it on apple slices, crêpes, and sandwiches, where one slice of bread is spread with peanut butter and the other with Nutella. That was my snack of choice while studying abroad in Europe, where Nutella is sold in little cups. Once emptied, the jars can be used as drinking glasses—I actually ended up building an entire collection in my cupboard. So to come up with a sweet treat recipe for Valentine's Day, I immediately thought of cookies sandwiched together with Nutella.

What better cookie could there be to pair with Nutella than chocolate cookies? These rolled cookies get cut out with fluted heart-shaped cookie cutters in various sizes. The dough is not that difficult to put together and, when rolled out between plastic, is very easy to handle. It also makes for a very tender cookie when no flour is used in rolling. If you like a softer cookie, bake for no more than 7 minutes. For a crispy cookie, bake for 8 minutes. The dough features a spoonful of hazelnut liqueur, which is also an Italian specialty. Find it sold as Frangelico, bottled in a monk-shaped glass. These cookies are perfect for sharing with friends, coworkers, or classmates. Kids will absolutely love them as will the adults.

I just want to be clear and say that I'm not being compensated for this post nor was I contacted by Nutella. I am writing about my love for Nutella, the chocolate-hazelnut spread, in all honesty.

Chocolate-Hazelnut Sandwich Cookie Hearts

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon hazelnut liqueur
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup packed light-brown sugar
1 large egg
chocolate-hazelnut spread, for filling

Sift together the dry ingredients: flour, cocoa powder, and baking powder.

On medium-low heat, melt the chocolate in a heat-proof bowl over a pot of simmering water. Off from heat add espresso powder, vanilla, and hazelnut liqueur; mix to incorporate. Let cool slightly.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, salt, and sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add egg and mix until combined. Fold in melted chocolate. Add the dry ingredients a little at a time on low speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Mix until combined.

Form dough into two discs and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before rolling.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Line baking sheets with oven-safe parchment paper or Silpats.

Roll out one disc of dough between two pieces of plastic wrap to 1/8-inch thick. Keep second disc in refrigerator until ready to roll. Cut out cookies using a 2- or 3-inch heart cutter and transfer to lined baking sheet, arranging no more than 1 inch apart. Reshape scraps of dough into a disc, wrap in plastic, and keep in refrigerator until ready to roll again.

Bake cookies for 7 to 8 minutes. Let cool completely. Spread cookie bottoms with about 1 to 2 teaspoons of chocolate hazelnut spread and sandwich with tops, squeezing together. Yield: 20 sandwiched cookies.

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Chocolate Mousse

Chocolate is the dessert of choice on Valentine's Day, be it candy, truffles, cakes, or cookies, we crave chocolate. There is good reason: Somewhere along the line in history, dating back to Aztec times, chocolate became known for its stimulating effect, and was believed to be an aphrodisiac. Chocolate eventually becoming equated with the holiday of love because its exclusivity made it the perfect gift to show one's appreciation. It's no surprise why so many people love chocolate, it has been a part of our Valentine's celebrations for hundreds of years. Valentine's Day wouldn't be what it is without it.

The best way to enjoy chocolate, in my opinion, is in its purest form. Give me a bar of good-quality chocolate and I will be extremely happy. Many people love such desserts as chocolate cake and brownies, but those sweets don't always give chocolate due justice. A simple dessert that showcases chocolate in its top form combines just a few ingredients: melted chocolate, eggs, and cream, to create a spoonable chocolate cloud called mousse, the French word for foam. This is a dessert your Valentine will swoon over.

Most people would say chocolate mousse only contains those three ingredients. That's only partly true. There are recipes that make it without egg yolks, or others that add butter. Then there is Hervé This's chocolate mousse made with only chocolate and water. If you're thinking it's impossible, then you're wrong. I've seen it and eaten it first hand. But for this recipe I take the classic route and make a mousse that includes egg whites and yolks, cream, and butter. The latter two ingredients add creaminess and flavor that can't be achieved by anything else. I also add espresso powder, vanilla extract, and a pinch of salt to bring out the chocolate flavor.

Mousse is both an easy and difficult dessert to make, just because the different components need to be at the correct temperatures when assembling. The melted chocolate should not be hot because the eggs will curdle when added. Nor should it be cold because the eggs won't incorporate smoothly. Make sure the melted chocolate is at body temperature. To test, dab a little of the melted chocolate on the inside of your wrist or your upper lip. It should be just warm. In fact it's like testing a baby's bottle. The egg whites should be about room temperature and the whipped cream should be still cool after whipping. Follow these guidelines and you will be all set to create and enjoy a luscious chocolate mousse for dessert.

Chocolate Mousse

1 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
Pinch of salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 large eggs, separated
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Whipped cream, for serving
Shaved chocolate, for serving

Whip the cream in a chilled bowl until soft peaks form.

Bring a pot with 2 inches of water to a boil. Turn off the heat. Set a bowl over the pot. Add the butter and stir until melted. Add the espresso powder and stir until dissolved. Add the chocolate and stir until melted. Let the chocolate cool to just body temperature.

Meanwhile, whip the egg whites in a warmed bowl until frothy. Add the sugar and continue to whip until stiff but not dry.

To the chocolate, stir in the salt and vanilla. Stir in the egg yolks, one at a time, until smooth. Fold in the beaten egg whites in two additions. Fold in the whipped cream in two additions. Divide the mixture among six glasses. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Serve each glass topped with whipped cream and chocolate shavings.

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Pan-Seared Filet Mignon with Red-Wine Sauce, Rosemary-Roasted Potatoes, and Sautéed Spinach

There's no other holiday like Valentine's Day when lovers are given the chance to express their affection in many ways, be it something as simple as flowers or as fancy as a restaurant dinner. Right now it's Restaurant Week here in New York City and there are many Valentine's Day dinner specials soon to be available. In the city especially, there is always an opportunity for couples to dine out and have a great, albeit, expensive time. But a private dinner at home can be just as special and a lot less pricey. I don't think there is anything more romantic than cooking for your other half. A meal that's made with love has so much more meaning than anything a restaurant could offer.

I have a simple dinner in mind. Today I'm posting these recipes: a main course and two side dishes. Tomorrow I'm giving you dessert, a classic chocolate mousse. It makes the perfect dessert since chocolate is an aphrodisiac, right? This entrée is simple and easy, using basic cooking techniques, so you don't have to spend too much time at the stove. It's uncomplicated, unfussy, hearty, and familiar in flavors: it's steak, potatoes, and spinach. These petite filet mignon make an elegant dinner for two and, with the side dishes included, come in well under 20 dollars, 30 if you include a good bottle of red wine. Celebrate your Valentine with this easy and affordable meal.

To make this dinner, it's all about getting all your ducks in a row so that everything finishes at the same time. But even if it doesn't happen that way, it's nothing to get upset about. First, start on the potatoes, then the steak, and the spinach. The spinach can also be cooked ahead of time and reheated. While the steaks rest, make the pan sauce. Or to speed things up a bit, have the wine reduced already and after removing the steaks, pour the wine into the pan to deglaze, and create a flavorful sauce. Enjoy the remaining bottle of wine (minus 1 cup) with dinner. This dinner will truly impress the one you love. Happy Valentine's Day!

Pan-Seared Filet Mignon with Red-Wine Sauce, Rosemary-Roasted Potatoes, and Sautéed Spinach

2 6-ounce filet mignon, 1-1/2 inches thick
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon green peppercorns, crushed
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 cup red wine
Rosemary-Roasted Potatoes, recipe follows
Sautéed Spinach, recipe follows

Let the steaks come to room temperature. Tie each tightly with kitchen twine. Scatter green peppercorns over a cutting board. Season the board liberally with salt and pepper. Press each steak into the seasoning, coating each side.

Heat a large saute pan over medium-high to high heat. Add oil and 1 tablespoon butter. Sear steaks 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. Remove to a plate, cover with foil and let rest. Cut off strings.

Pour off any grease in the pan. Add wine and simmer until reduced by half. Off the heat, swirl in remaining 1 tablespoon butter until emulsified. Serve each steak with a drizzle of red-wine sauce, potatoes, and spinach. Yield: 2 servings.

Rosemary-Roasted Potatoes

1 pound baby Yukon gold potatoes, halved
olive oil
1 tablespoon minced rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon rosemary leaves
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

On a rimmed baking sheet, toss together potatoes with a good drizzle of oil. Scatter over with minced rosemary and leaves. Season with salt and pepper. Toss again and arrange potatoes cut-side down. Roast until tender when pierced with a knife and brown on the cut sides, about 30 minutes.

Sautéed Spinach

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
10 ounces spinach leaves, trimmed, and washed
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Warm oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add spinach, tossing and turning, until wilted but still bright green, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

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Riverpark by Tom Colicchio

After having some pretty bad restaurant week experiences this past few weeks, I finally had a breakthrough at Tom Colicchio's new Riverpark, located in the Alexandria Center for Life Science building alongside the East River. Like the building, the restaurant has a very modern and classy look, not at all austere, but with just the right blend of architectural styles. A bar breaks up the restaurant into two spaces, one is slightly elevated and the other space looks out onto the river. A very unique lighting fixture of unadorned light bulbs wraps the ceiling, up one wall and over to the bar. It’s almost dizzying if scanned too quickly, but it set the mood for a whirlwind evening of wonderful eating.

For a restaurant that makes you go so far out of your way—all the way to the East River, they better be good. And, oh, it was good. Surprisingly, the restaurant week menu that appeared online was only a snippet of the one handed to us, which appeared to be much like the regular menu, offering ten options per course. It’s the first time I had ever seen more than three offerings per course for a restaurant participating in restaurant week, an event that is notorious for being a mixed bag of dining experiences. The dessert menu, instead of a chef's choice (meaning no choice for the diner), had seven choices including a cheese plate. It was difficult to make a decision with so many options available, but I’m always glad for that.



The appetizer course had offerings that ran the gamut from fresh oysters to the over-popularized pork belly. There were Italian-inspired pasta dishes, Asian-style combinations and even one Mexican dish of squab mole that I had to order. I haven't had all too good experiences with mole sauces in the past, either they are too strong or just plain muddy. This mole was just right for my palate: mild, flavorful, and savory. The squab was cooked beautifully, deep crimson on the interior and not at all tasting of game bird. The crushed pistachios on top were a nice touch as both a garnish and textural component. The other appetizer of marinated prawn salad, which sounded so elegant, was just that. Two head-on, tail-on prawns were lovingly intertwined among frisée leaves, shaved sunchokes, and blood orange segments. Two smears of root vegetable purée added their sweet flavor to the refreshing appetizer.

For our main course, my friend Kristen and I switched back and forth between a most tender lamb and a delicately cooked cod. The lamb was tender enough to cut with a butter knife. It rested atop a pile of lentils that truly looked like little coins, cooked to perfection and highly flavorful. The dish was what I would call woodsy, and was surrounded by a mushroom salad and turnips, further underlining the earthy feel and flavor. The cod, just on the salty side, was adorned with fennel and was nested in a potato purée, studded with clams taken out of their clam shells. Both dishes impressed upon me chef Sisha Ortuzar's care with ingredients and focus on seasonal produce. In fact all the ingredients are sourced locally and many purchased from the Greenmarket. There were no peas or asparagus on this winter menu, thank goodness.

Oftentimes dessert offerings during restaurant week are very limited and uninteresting. But even during regular times, a restaurant's main dishes can be spectacular whereas dessert can quickly fall short. Still I never skip dessert because I want to see what importance the restaurant places on the sweet dishes. With all the many great offerings on Riverpark's dessert menu, how could I possibly choose? There was the restaurant standard/stand-by of chocolate soufflé cake. There were also beignets with marmalade, apple crisp, and cinnamon panna cotta. It's as if they knew what all my favorite desserts were and put them on the menu to confuse me. I let my friend choose the cheese plate, which I had never before seen on a restaurant week menu. I was caught between the beignets and the hazelnut financier. I ordered the financier to appease my love for hazelnuts. This was nothing like the classic financier cake, made to look like a gold bouillon bar, supposedly eaten by French bankers. This was a Napoleon-style cake with alternating layers of hazelnut cake and vanilla semifreddo surrounded by hazelnut halves and pomegranate seeds, poured around (as part of tableside service) with a sweet pomegranate consommé. It was like eating a sweet, creamy cloud. I could not have been happier with a more successful dessert.

To accompany our dinner, we imbibed a glass of wine each, a Syrah/Grenache blend and a Chardonnay. There was no better complement to lamb than that red blend from Cellar de Capcanes, Montsant, Spain. The Jamesport Chardonnay from the North Fork of Long Island was quite nice with the fish but even better with the cheese course, which came with three cheeses: Meadow Creek Grayson, a pungent and nutty Taleggio-like cheese from Virginia; Lively Run Cayuga blue, a creamy blue goat’s cheese made in upstate New York; and Ossau-Iraty Vieille, a hard raw sheep’s milk cheese from France. The accompaniments were marmalade, apricot preserve, and honey with the comb.

If only I had the time and money, I would have started the dinner over with a new set of dishes until I'd have been booted out of the restaurant for overstaying my welcome. The service was quite nice, attentive, water glasses refilled promptly with filtered NYC tap water, I might add. I always wonder if my camera gives the wait staff consternation, but I had to attempt and capture the beauteous styling of those dishes, though the squab mole looked so dark and dreary that my astounded facial expression made the server ask if it was the correct dish I ordered. I was merely wondering how I'd take that pigeon's picture; after all it was covered in what looked like black tar. But, alas, I have no pictures of the food to share, as the quality of the images was quite low due to dim and moody lighting. I hope my descriptions aptly describe and give justice to those dishes.

If I ever open a restaurant, a thing of my wildest dreams, it would be something like Riverpark, with a mix of international cuisines and a lot of attention to ingredients and seasonality. That is what makes a good restaurant and is what all restaurants should strive toward achieving. This was my first time at a Tom Colicchio establishment outside of 'wichcraft, and I had no expectations going into it, just because I had no idea what to expect. I've always known that Tom Colicchio has immense respect for ingredients and an expertise for bringing out their best form, but now that I have encountered his mantra first hand, I can place this dining experience on my list of top New York City restaurants.

Riverpark
450 East 29th Street, between 1st Avenue and the East River
New York, NY 10016
212-729-9790
Open daily for lunch and dinner from Monday through Thursday, 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 12 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.; and Sunday, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.

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Layered Bean Dip

About a month ago I was contacted by my blog sponsor Foodbuzz asking me whether I would be interested in creating a Super Bowl party recipe using Pace Picante Sauce. I jumped at the opportunity because I love Pace and I already had a great recipe in mind. I love bean dips for a party, especially layered dips, because of the colorful and flavorful layers that can be created in a bowl. It reminds me of the colored sand I used to pour into jars as a kid. It's exciting and unexpected to see and break through the different layers of one of these dips to discover unique flavors.

Most layered bean dips start with a can of ho-hum refried beans, but this dip starts with a flavorful pinto bean purée made with a quick sauté of onion and garlic. Then comes the Pace Picante Sauce followed by a layer of mashed avocados, which tastes much like guacamole. Cooling sour cream finishes the layers. The chunky toppings include shredded sharp cheddar cheese, cherry tomatoes, pickled jalapeños, scallions, and cilantro. It's an easy dip that comes together in no time at all. It can even be made a few hours ahead (minus the toppings) and refrigerated before your party guests arrive. This is a must-try recipe to add to your Super Bowl celebration.

Layered Bean Dip

3 tablespoons canola oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 15-ounce can pinto beans, drained and rinsed
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 Haas avocados, cubed
1/4 cup chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish
2 tablespoons lime juice (about 1 lime)
1 8-ounce jar Pace Picante sauce
1 cup sour cream
1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1 pint cherry tomatoes, quartered
1/4 cup pickled sliced jalapeños
4 scallions, sliced
tortilla chips, for serving

Warm oil in a sauté pan set over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic. Sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add beans and 1/4 cup water. Simmer until most liquid evaporates. Mash the beans while cooking. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor. Purée until smooth. Let cool.

Combine the avocados, cilantro, and lime juice in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Mash the avocados until smooth.

Spread the cooled bean mixture in the bottom of a large straight-sided glass bowl. Spread over with Pace Picante Sauce. Dollop the mashed avocados over the sauce. Spread the sour cream over the avocado layer. Top the bowl with cheese, tomatoes, pickled jalapeños, scallions, and additional cilantro. Serve dip with tortilla chips. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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White Bean and Roasted Red Pepper Dip

With the Super Bowl just a few days away, there's no better time than now to begin putting together your game-day menu. Sunday is the time to serve favorite appetizers like dips, spreads, guacamole, and nachos. Among them, dips are probably the easiest to put together. With this recipe, all you need to do is whiz the ingredients together in the food processor and you're ready to serve eager and hungry guests. What could be better than a bowl of dip and chips to feed a crowd of friends and family? Throw in a few beers and you have a party.

For this Mediterranean-style white bean dip, I focus on the flavors of Spain and use such ingredients as Spanish pimentón (smoked paprika) for meaty smokiness and sherry vinegar for noteable tang. Roasted red pepper adds sweetness and a rusty color. Serve the dip with your favorite bag of tortilla chips and this party appetizer is all set. The dip can also be made up to two days in advance and refrigerated. Serve at room temperature to allow the flavors to fully bloom. When you feed your rowdy gang with this quick and easy dip, not only will they cheer on the team, but you might just get some cheers too.

White Bean and Roasted Red Pepper Dip

1-1/2 cups cooked cannellini beans or 1 15-ounce can, drained and rinsed
1 small roasted red bell pepper (dry roasted or from a jar), chopped
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
tortilla chips, for serving

In the bowl of a food processor, combine beans, red bell pepper, olive oil, lemon juice, vinegar, and paprika. Process until puréed. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer dip to a small bowl. Drizzle with additional olive oil. Serve with tortilla chips. Yield: 2 cups; 6 to 8 appetizer servings.

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Pork and Shrimp Dumplings or Shu Mai

I love the custom of Chinese dim sum because it brings friends and family together at the table. This style of food is enjoyed with small plates, which allows the diner the opportunity to enjoy many different dishes in small quantities. For me it's a way to find a favorite and stick with it. In every Chinatown in the United States you would be hard pressed not to find a restaurant offering dim sum or what I like to call Chinese brunch. I remember my first time at a dim sum place in New York with a group of Asian friends. I was lucky to have help in deciphering the menus and communicating with the waitresses, who brought out the food on trolleys and took orders by stamping slips of paper. It's truly an experience that transports the nonnative eater to China.

It's been many years since I've had good traditional dim sum and my longing for dumplings has increasingly grown since. With the approach of Chinese New Year on February 3, there is no better reason to make my dim sum favorite, shu mai, at home. These dumplings are typically made of shrimp and pork, but they can also be made of pork and mushroom, and even mutton, depending on the regional cuisine. No matter the filling, shu mai always retain a characteristic look: they sort of resemble little volcanoes with filling erupting from their tops. They only need limited skill to form the shape and the best shortcut of all is using wonton wrappers instead of making the dough. It takes just minutes to bring together this easy dim sum, which also makes a fun party appetizer.

The key to tender dumplings is a quick steam. I use the traditional method of a bamboo steamer placed in a wok. The basket is lined with cabbage leaves to keep the dumplings from sticking. Then they are steamed in batches so as not to overcrowd. Bamboo steamer baskets make a fun presentation when brought to the table full of dumplings. If you don't have the Chinese set-up, use a shallow pan with a tight-fitting lid. Place a round rack or steamer basket over the water. For lining the steamer, substitute parchment paper for cabbage leaves but make sure to cut a few slashes to make way for the steam to come through. Whichever method is used, you are guaranteed to have steaming hot, flavorful dumplings at the ready to celebrate Chinese New Year if you are Chinese or not.



Pork and Shrimp Dumplings or Shu Mai

5 ounces ground pork
5 ounces shrimp, peeled, deveined, and coarsely chopped
3 scallions, chopped
1 tablespoon grated ginger (about 1/2-inch piece)
1 tablespoon Chinese cooking wine
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
20 wonton wrappers
Napa cabbage leaves, for steaming
1 large egg, beaten, for egg wash

for the dipping sauce:
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon lime juice (about 1/2 lime)
1 scallion, chopped

Combine the pork, shrimp, scallions, ginger, rice wine, soy sauce, and sesame oil in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Stir well to combine.

Bring a wok or shallow pan filled with 1 to 2 inches of water to a simmer over high heat. Line a bamboo steamer basket with 3 to 4 cabbage leaves. Make sure the water level will not touch the rack of the basket.

To form the dumplings, place about 2 teaspoons of filling in each wonton wrapper. Keep the wrappers covered with plastic wrap while working. Using a brush, dab the edges with egg wash. Begin pinching and pleating the edges so that the filling forms a ball inside the wrapper but still peaks out from the top. Place the dumplings on a tray lined with parchment paper and keep covered with plastic wrap until ready to cook.

Arrange half the dumplings in the steamer basket, spacing them a few inches apart. Place over the simmering water, cover, and steam for 6 minutes. Remove to a hot platter. Steam the remaining dumplings.

Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce. Combine soy sauce, lime juice, and scallion in a small bowl. Serve the dipping sauce alongside dumplings. Yield: about 4 to 6 appetizer servings.

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