Strawberry Agua Fresca

Better than punch, tea, and even lemonade, aguas frescas are drinks made of fresh fruit puree. In Mexico they are typically made with tropical fruits, melons, and even grains—which include the rice drink horchata. Street vendors popularized the drink but nowadays you can even find agua fresca made in top restaurants. The Mexican soft drink company Jarritos is based on traditional aguas frescas recipes, but replaces water with soda.

Make your own version of agua fresca at home using your favorite fruit. This recipe for uses ripe seasonal strawberries. The sweet-tart flavor of strawberries is very refreshing and palate-cleansing. It couldn't be easier to make this agua fresca. The combination is simply pureed fruit, water, and a little sugar. Make a pitcherful for this weekend's Fourth of July get-together and treat yourself and your family and friends to a cooling drink on a hot day.

Strawberry Agua Fresca

1 pound strawberries, stemmed, hulled, and coarsely chopped
4 cups water or soda water
1/4 cup sugar

Puree strawberries in a blender.

Combine the water and sugar in a large pitcher. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Pour in strawberry puree and stir to combine. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Stir before serving. Yield 4 to 6 servings.

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Tamarind-Glazed Baby Back Ribs

Ribs are undoubtedly a cornerstone of American summer barbecues, especially in the South where it's practically an art form. Die-hard 'cue masters will argue there's a difference between barbecue and grilling. And there is: Barbecue is a low and slow process of cooking meat in a smoky humid environment. Grilling is about quick contact-cooking. Steaks and burgers are grilling. Ribs and pork shoulder are barbecue. Barbecue can be broken down further into wet and dry versions. It's pretty self-explanatory but the debate as to which is better is one that will never be decided upon. The secret is in the sauce—or is it the rub?

What most Americans know as barbecue is based on the wet barbecue technique that originated in Kansas City. Large food brands further popularized wet barbecue with their lines of sauces. Wet barbecue is all about the sauce whereas dry barbecue is all about the rub. No thick sauce is used to baste the meat except for a mop sauce (typically made with vinegar, which helps keep the meat moist). You'll find dry barbecue in Memphis, where they serve sauce on the side for dipping, but you will never see it slathered on the meat. Most at-home barbecue includes a combination of both dry and wet methods.



This Asian fusion barbecue ribs recipe I've developed begins its flavoring with a paprika rub that imparts smoky flavor during an overnight stay in the fridge. The next day the ribs are roasted in the oven for just over 2 hours and then braised in tamarind-flavored soda for another hour or so. After being slathered with my homemade sweet-and-spicy tamarind BBQ sauce, the ribs are grilled until sticky and blackened a bit. This step gives the ribs an authentic barbecue flavor. The ribs are moist and succulent, spicy and flavorful. They're just the right item to add to your summer grilling menu this Fourth of July. I promise you'll make your family's mouths water with this recipe.

Thank you to Jarritos for sending me their Mexican sodas to use in this recipe. Tamarind-flavored Jarritos has always been my favorite.

Tamarind-Glazed Baby Back Ribs

2 racks pork loin ribs (about 4 pounds total)
3/4 cup Paprika Rib Rub, recipe follows
1 bottle Jarritos tamarind soda or any brand ginger ale
1-1/2 cups Tamarind Barbecue Sauce, recipe follows

Trim any excess fat from ribs. Using a spoon, forcibly separate silverskin from underside of ribs. Grab hold of membrane, using a towel for leverage, and remove in one piece.

Place ribs on a large tray and rub all over with rub. Cover with plastic wrap. Place in refrigerator overnight. Let ribs come back to room temperature before cooking.

Preheat oven to 250 degrees F. Roast ribs for 2-1/2 hours.

Remove ribs from oven and pour over with soda. Wrap tightly with aluminum foil. Return to oven and braise for 1-1/2 hours.

Heat gas grill at high and reduce to medium heat, about 300 degrees F, when ready to grill.

Uncover ribs and pour off remaining liquid. Spread ribs with some of the barbecue sauce. Grill, turning and brushing with barbecue sauce, until glazed, about 15 minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes. Cut into 1- and 2-rib sections and serve. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Paprika Rib Rub

2 tablespoons sweet Hungarian paprika
2 tablespoons smoked Spanish paprika (pimentón)
2 tablespoons hot Hungarian paprika or cayenne
2 tablespoons granulated garlic
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon ground ginger
1/2 cup palm sugar or light-brown sugar
1/4 cup Kosher salt

Combine all the ingredients until thoroughly combined with no lumps. Yield: 1-1/2 cups. Store in an air-tight container in the pantry if not using immediately.

Tamarind Barbecue Sauce

3 garlic cloves, chopped
1-inch piece ginger, chopped
1 yellow onion, chopped
5 stalks lemongrass, chopped
1 cup cilantro, stems included
1/4 cup fresh or dried curry leaves
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 cup Tamarind Puree, recipe follows
1 cup organic ketchup
1/2 cup palm sugar or light-brown sugar
1/2 cup rice vinegar
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup mirin
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup lime juice (about 2 limes)
1/4 cup sriracha

Add garlic, ginger, onion, lemongrass, cilantro, and curry leaves to the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until a paste forms.

Warm oil in a saucepan set over medium heat. Add paste and sauté until almost dry, about 3 minutes. Add all the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Bring to a boil and lower to a simmer. Cook until thickened, about 20 to 30 minutes. Using an immersion blender, puree the sauce off from the heat. Yield: 4 cups. Keep sauce in a jar and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks if not using immediately.

Tamarind Puree

Note: Tamarind is a tropical fruit commonly used in Southeast Asian cuisine. If purchased in its natural pod state, it will require some processing to turn into puree. You can also find tamarind paste in vacuum-sealed packages. Add 1/2 cup hot water to a 1/2 cup paste to get 1 cup puree.

1 pound tamarind pods
1 cup hot water

Peel tamarind pods and remove stringy fibers. Add pods to a bowl and pour over with hot water. Let soak for 10 minutes. Use a spoon to mash tamarind into smaller pieces. Place a sieve over a large bowl and pour tamarind pulp through, mashing and pressing until pulp is pushed through. Remove large seeds as you go. Yield: 1 cup.

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Banh Mi Dogs with Spicy Asian Slaw

Who doesn't love a hot dog? They're an iconic American food and are a fixture at backyard barbecues. German immigrants brought hot dogs to America and made them famous by selling from stands at ball parks. Ever since, Americans have had a love affair with the frankfurter, as they were called then, and franks as we call them now. Summer grilling wouldn't be complete without hot dogs. It's always easy to throw some dogs on the grill—you have a crowd-pleasing outdoor dinner in no time.

When it comes to hot dog condiments there are those who prefer ketchup and those who swear by mustard. As a kid I drowned my hot dogs in ketchup. But now as an adult I have the mature taste buds to appreciate tangy mustard (preferably spicy brown) and a little sauerkraut. The toppings debate won't be decided upon anytime soon, but I'm always up for a twist on tradition with a new kind of topping that's sure to pique everyone's interest.

I top these hot dogs with spicy slaw made with the flavors of the Vietnamese banh mi sandwich. Rice vinegar gives the slaw a tangy almost pickled flavor much like the pickled vegetables that top a banh mi. Cilantro and hot peppers add a refreshing jolt. Sesame oil and a bit of fish sauce round out the vinegary dressing--no mayonnaise in this recipe. This is a dog that's sure to delight even the most adamant cynic with tongue-tingling flavors.

Banh Mi Dogs

canola oil, for brushing grill
8 all-beef skinless hot dogs
8 whole-wheat hot dog buns
spicy brown mustard
4 cups Spicy Asian Slaw, recipe follows

Heat a gas grill at medium-high to high heat. Once hot, oil the grates using a paper towel moistened with oil.

Cut diagonal slits on hot dogs. Place on grill, periodically turning with tongs until cooked through, about 3 minutes. Toast outside of buns on grill just until marks form.

Place each hot dog in a bun and squeeze a line of mustard on dog. Top with about 1/2 cup slaw. Serve immediately. Yield: Serves 8.

Spicy Asian Slaw

for the dressing:
1/2 cup rice vinegar
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons honey
2 teaspoons crushed coriander seeds
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

for the slaw:
1/2 green cabbage, shredded
1/4 red cabbage, shredded
1 large carrot, julienned
2 serrano chile peppers, thinly sliced
1 cup cilantro leaves
2 tablespoons sesame seeds

In a small bowl or measuring cup, whisk together rice vinegar, sesame oil, fish sauce, honey, and coriander seeds. Season with salt and pepper.

In a large bowl, toss together green and red cabbage, carrot, chile peppers, and cilantro. Pour dressing over vegetables and toss to coat. Sprinkle sesame seeds on top. Serve immediately. Yield: 8 to 10 servings; about 8 cups.

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Tricolore Three-Bean Salad

Picnic salads are some of the best summer foods. What would any outdoor cookout be without them? I can't imagine fried chicken without potato salad or steak without three-bean salad. The classic recipes are always appreciated, but sometimes it's nice to try something new—with a twist. This time I decided to reinvent the classic three-bean salad with a recipe that uses all fresh beans, with three different kinds—and colors.

This salad has yellow wax beans, green string beans, and purple wax beans. But it's hard to tell from the picture which ones are purple, because they lose most of their color once cooked. A shallot, though, makes up for the loss of purple color. Using herbs in the vinaigrette adds refreshing earthy flavor. And topping the salad with ricotta salata cheese adds a slight salty tanginess. This Mediterranean-style salad is great for party picnics with family and friends. Plus it pairs with just about any comfort food.



Here is a tip to take away the strong bite of shallots and onions when using them raw in recipes. Macerate the onions, either sliced or chopped, in a little vinegar for 5 minutes. Then drain. The onions leach out the harsh onion flavor into the vinegar, which then gets discarded.

Tricolore Three-Bean Salad

1/2 pound yellow wax beans, ends trimmed
1/2 pound green string beans, ends trimmed
1/2 pound purple wax beans, ends trimmed
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped mixed herbs, such as thyme, oregano, and/or marjoram
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
ricotta salata, for grating

Bring a large pot of liberally salted water to the boil. Blanch beans in batches by color, from the lightest in color to the darkest, for 3 to 5 minutes. Immediately remove to a bowl of iced water. Drain.

Combine sliced shallot with 1/4 cup vinegar. Macerate for 5 minutes. Drain.

Whisk together remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar, olive oil, and herbs. Season with salt and pepper.

Toss beans and shallot with vinaigrette. Transfer to a serving bowl and grate over with ricotta salata. Serve cold or at room temperature. Yield: 6 servings.

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Vietnamese Shrimp-and-Herb Summer Rolls

My taste buds have never been so excited as when I'm eating Vietnamese food. I clearly remember my first taste of bánh mì—the baguette sandwich filled with pork, pâté, pickled vegetables, and cilantro—so many year ago. I was struck by the sandwich's refreshing flavor. Since then I've made many Vietnamese recipes. The reason why I love the cuisine so much is because of its wide use of herbs. They bring so much flavor to dishes, but the most flavor comes when they are used fresh.

This Vietnamese recipe features basil, mint, and chives—all add a burst of flavor to every bite. Unlike fried spring rolls or egg rolls, these fresh summer rolls, also known as spring rolls or salad rolls, contain lettuce and herbs along with rice vermicelli and cooked shrimp. The rolls make a great cold party appetizer. Their fresh taste is the perfect way to celebrate the season, which begins today.

Summer rolls are wrapped in rice paper, which becomes translucent when dipped in water. The vermicelli noodles in the filling are also made of rice. Make this recipe with shrimp, but you can also substitute cooked chicken or pork. Serve the rolls with a creamy and spicy cashew dipping sauce and the traditional dipping sauce, nước chấm, which has a tangy flavor.

Vietnamese Shrimp-and-Herb Summer Rolls

for the shrimp:
1/2 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
6 sprigs parsley

for the spring rolls:
4 ounces rice vermicelli
12 8-inch spring roll wrappers
1 bunch basil, leaves only
1 bunch mint, leaves only
1 bunch chives
1 heart butter lettuce, leaves separated
Cashew Dipping Sauce, recipe follows
Nuoc Cham, recipe follows

Bring a pot of water to the boil. Flavor with salt, peppercorns, coriander, and parsley. Add the shrimp, bring back to the boil, cover, and let stand off from heat for about 5 to 8 minutes until shrimp are opaque and cooked through. Remove shrimp to a bowl of ice water to stop cooking process. Slice each shrimp lengthwise.

Soak the rice vermicelli in a bowl of hot water until soft, about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain.

To make the spring rolls, set up a station with a tray lined with a damp kitchen towel and fill a shallow dish with hot water. One at a time, soak each spring roll wrapper in the hot water until pliable, about 20 seconds. Carefully remove the wrapper to the kitchen towel and blot off excess water with a paper towel. Place a few basil and mint leaves in the lower third. Top with a lettuce leaf and fill with a bit of noodles. Place 3 to 4 shrimp halves in the middle of the wrapper. Begin tightly rolling up the spring roll and once you get to the shrimp, fold up the ends and add a few chive stems down the center. Continue rolling until the roll is tightly closed. Repeat until all the rolls are complete. While working, keep the finished rolls covered with a damp towel. Serve with cashew dipping sauce and nuoc cham. Yield: 12 rolls; about 6 servings.

Cashew Dipping Sauce

1/2 cup cashew butter
2 tablespoons miso paste
1/3 cup hot water
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon grated ginger (about 1-inch piece)
1/4 teaspoon chile flakes

Combine the cashew butter, miso paste, and hot water in a bowl. Whisk until smooth. Add soy sauce, rice vinegar, lemon juice, ginger, and chile flakes. Stir to combine. Top with chopped cashews before serving. Cashew sauce can be made ahead of time and chilled. Yield: 2 cups.

Nuoc Cham

6 tablespoons fish sauce
1/3 cup water
1/4 cup lime juice (about 2 limes)
2 tablespoons honey
1 garlic clove, grated
1/4 teaspoon red chile flakes

Stir together fish sauce, water, lime juice, and honey until honey is dissolved. Add garlic and chile flakes; stir to combine. Nuoc cham can be made ahead of time and refrigerated. Yield: 1-1/2 cups.

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What Happens When - Movement 4

Pop-up restaurants seem to be all the rage—along with food trucks, but what really sets one pop-up apart from another? Is it the location, the type of food, the chef? At What Happens When it's the combination of all these things that add up to a wonderful dining experience. The chef, John Fraser of Dovetail, has created a menu that revolves around themes and is updated almost monthly in what are termed movements. The food is extremely well executed with attention to detail and precision. The entire experience is the product of a great collaboration among designers, photographers, composers, and chefs.

I was lucky to find out about What Happens When from my friend Amanda who was getting ready to wish New York City goodbye. So for her last hurrah we had dinner at What Happens When on a mild Friday a few weeks ago. We skipped the white-on-blueprinted-blackboard dining room in favor of the cool climate of the garden behind the restaurant, which felt almost like a courtyard surrounded by the low slung buildings of Soho. The theme or movement of the night was Southern comfort food slash Prohibition era—how apropros for what turned out to be a dry night. All details from the outfits of the servers to the music floating through the cool air of the garden underlined a feeling of authenticity.

The restaurant had just gotten into a dispute about its liquor license that week, so unfortunately alcoholic cocktails were not served. But that didn't stop the restaurant from coming up with a clever menu of mocktails in the theme of Shakespeare's Tempest. We ordered the Prospero, made with pomegranate, passion fruit, and pineapple juices as well as the Caliban with ginger, mint, and lemonade.

I'm never a fan of cornbread, but the one we were served in place of the typical restaurant bread basket might have converted me. It was moist—not at all dry like the notorious cornbread of the north—and tender. What followed was an amuse-bouche of mini muffulettas with pickled vegetables. They were precisely assembled little sandwiches, so dainty and miniature. One of the most interesting appetizers of the evening was the boudine sausage balls with spicy Creole mustard. These were tender, flavorful, and crispy balls of deep-fried boudine blanc (white pork sausage). I especially liked the yellow beets, which were a nice palate cleanser between bites of sausage. The fried oyster appetizer was sumptuous. There's nothing better than a perfect fresh oyster. Here it was presented like a po' boy sandwich but without the bread—just iceberg lettuce wedges, thinly sliced tomato, and dressing.

Next we were surprised with an intermezzo of soft shell crab. I've tried soft shell crabs only once before but was always afraid of eating the thin edible shell. These crabs were simply buttery and unctuous in flavor. They were accompanied by dirty rice, made dirty with crab fat instead of the typical chicken liver. It was so good it was difficult not finishing the entire bowl of rice. But I still think soft shell crab will always have the texture of eating fingernails for me.

I was hesitant with our choices of Cornish hen and pork chop for our main courses, because both proteins have the tendency of being served dry and tough. But this was not at all the case. Both were succulent, moist, tender, and flavorful. The jambalaya of Cornish hen was juicy and nicely blackened on the skin, which was too good not to eat. It was served over rice with andouille sausage and shrimp. The jus was lip-stickingly robust and flavorful. The slightly pink and juicy double-thick pork chop came with a tasso ham and scallion gravy worthy of mopping up with bread. The traditional accompaniment of collard greens was served as the bed for the chops.

We ordered two desserts but were offered a complimentary third. First we had the poached rhubarb with pound cake croutons, poured over with rhubarb sauce. What a refreshing, palate-cleansing dessert. Next was chocolate bread pudding with strawberry preserves, chocolate crumbs, and dehydrated strawberry slices. The pudding was moist and chocolatey—no complaint here. Lastly, the traditional Louisiana dessert of bananas foster was remade into a creme brûlée, except the hard-shell top was replaced with a burnt caramel gelée. Accompanying it was a banana cake with crumb topping. A very rich dessert to finish of the evening. If I were to choose just one, I'd go with the rhubarb for its refreshing flavor and not too-sweet taste.

You are in for a treat at What Happens When. From the food to the dining experience, everything is as a restaurant should be. Excellent cuisine, service, and atmosphere are key ingredients in making a dining experience a top-of-the-line one. For a restaurant that will only be around for 3 or so more months, they've put every effort into making the restaurant feel like a fixture. I don't know what the restaurant's name means, but I'd like to think it's what happens when all the puzzle pieces fit together.

Note: What Happens When continues to operate without a liquor license, so the mocktails menu will continue. BYO is unfortunately not offered.

What Happens When
25 Cleveland Place
New York, NY 10012
212-925-8310
Open Tuesday through Sunday, 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
$58 prix fixe and $6 mocktails.

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Japchae or Korean Stir-Fried Glass Noodles with Vegetables

Spinach wasn't a vegetable I always liked, especially as a kid. I refused to eat it no matter how convincing my mom might have been. And the Popeye cartoons didn't help change my mind either. As an adult, though, I love spinach. I'm not the biggest fan of it creamed, which is how my mom made it, but I love it sauteed for a side dish or used in main dishes. But have you ever thought of using spinach in a stir-fry?

Many years ago I had the wonderful opportunity of trying a Korean stir-fry for the first time. The dish I had was Japchae, which features spinach and glass noodles (made from potato starch) that look exactly as you would imagine. In Korea it's traditionally served as a side dish, but restaurants typically make a main course out if it by adding beef, chicken, or tofu to the dish. I like to serve mine as a meatless main. The combination of simple Asian flavors and fresh vegetables makes for a refreshing stir-fry that celebrates spring spinach.

Japchae or Korean Stir-Fried Glass Noodles with Vegetables

Note: Make sure to use regular sesame oil for cooking and toasted sesame oil only as a seasoning.

12 ounces glass noodles, broken into thirds
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 garlic cloves, grated
1 tablespoon grated ginger (about 1-inch piece)
1 large carrot, julienned
1 large red bell pepper, cut into strips
6 scallions, cut diagonally into batons
5 ounces oyster mushrooms
1 large bunch spinach, stemmed, leaves torn
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons sesame seeds

Boil the glass noodles according to package directions, about 6 to 7 minutes. Rinse in many changes of water until chilled. Drain once ready to cook.

Heat a wok at medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon sesame oil. Once hot, add garlic and ginger and sauté for 1 minute. Add carrot, bell pepper, and scallions. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes. Add spinach, a handful at a time, and toss until wilted. Season with salt and pepper. Remove vegetables to a bowl and keep warm.

Refresh wok with remaining 1 tablespoon sesame oil. Once hot, add cooked noodles and toss until well coated. Add soy sauce and toss until well coated and noodles turn glassy. Return vegetables to wok. Add toasted sesame oil. Toss to rewarm. Check seasoning. Some more soy sauce or sesame oil can be added. Garnish with sesame seeds. Serve immediately. Yield: 4 servings.

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Spinach, Nettle, and Ham Quiche with Herbed Crust

Leafy greens are some of the most interesting vegetables available in spring just for the fact that there's such a large variety. The farmers' markets are full of greens to be eaten. Delicate baby greens are especially wonderful in salads. Sturdier, more mature leaves can be sauteed for use as sides or as a filling, like in this quiche. This tart combines spinach and nettles with flavorful smoked ham and Parmesan cheese.

Everyone knows spinach, but not everyone is familiar with nettle, called stinging nettle because the papery leaves and wiry stems have little follicles that sting on contact. In markets you'll find bunches of nettle bagged in plastic to make it easier to handle. It's a good idea to use gloves when working with nettle. As with spinach, make sure to wash nettle in many changes of water and spin dry. Once it's cooked, the sting is gone. Nettle tastes somewhat like spinach but sweeter.



Instead of heavy cream in the custard base, this quiche uses tangy and thick crème fraîche, which is much like sour cream but richer. Mixed with egg yolks, it will turn into the fluffy custard filling that quiche is known for. It's a good idea to partially bake the dough, making it less likely for the crust to turn soggy from contact with the custard. This recipe doesn't even require beans or pie weights the keep the dough from shrinking. Freezing for 30 minutes takes care of that.

Once it's out of the oven, don't get too excited to cut into the quiche, though. Wait until it has cooled a bit, then use a pizza cutter to easily portion the rectangular tart into squares. It's perfect for brunch with family, makes a nice dinner, and even reheats well for lunch the next day—that's the versatility of quiche.

Spinach, Nettle, and Ham Quiche

Recipe adapted from Jamie at Home by Jamie Oliver.

Note: If you can't find stinging nettle, use more spinach.

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 large red onions, sliced
1 bunch spinach, stemmed, leaves torn
1 bunch stinging nettle, stemmed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram plus 1 tablespoon leaves
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
herbed crust, recipe follows
7 ounces smoked ham, thinly sliced
3 large eggs
16 ounces crème fraîche (2 cups)
5 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated, plus more for sprinkling
freshly grated nutmeg

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Warm oil in a saute pan set over medium heat. Add onions and saute until very soft, about 10 minutes. Raise heat and add spinach and nettle in batches, tossing until wilted. Add chopped marjoram. Season with salt and pepper.

Layer baked herbed crust with ham and sauteed vegetable mixture.

In a large bowl or measuring cup, whisk together eggs, crème fraîche, and cheese. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Pour over filled quiche. Sprinkle top with extra cheese and marjoram leaves and drizzle with a little oil. Bake until custard is set and puffed, about 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool slightly before slicing. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.



Herbed Crust

1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon fine salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
1/4 to 1/3 cup ice water

In a large bowl, combine flour, salt, pepper, and herbs. Add butter and work with a pastry blender until mixture resembles course meal. Add ice water a little at a time and mix until dough comes together. Form the dough into a flat rectangle and wrap in plastic. Chill for at least 1 hour before rolling.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Roll out dough on a well floured work surface to fit a 10-by-15-inch sheet pan. Carefully lay dough over pan. Trim any large overhang. Fold extra dough under and crimp edges using your thumb and forefingers. Using a fork, prick the bottom of the pan all over. Freeze shell for 30 minutes. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool slightly.

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Rhubarb Sorbet

When pretty pink rhubarb stalks show up at the market, you know that summer isn't far behind. Strawberries, too. Known as the pie fruit, rhubarb isn't just for pies. As one of my favorite vegetables (yes, it's a vegetable), I try to take every opportunity to make a unique dish every year when it's in season. Cobblers, crisps, compotes, and pies are all traditional. But this time I made sorbet.

This dessert couldn't be any more refreshing or palate-cleansing. Rhubarb has a tart, slightly astringent taste. That's why usually rhubarb desserts have a lot of sugar. But rhubarb's tartness is best tamed by its buddy, the strawberry. The two are a match made in dessert heaven. Strawberries keep the sorbet on the slightly sweet side, without the use of too much sugar, and brighten the pink color, making it appealing in taste and in beauty.

This recipe is so simple with only three ingredients: rhubarb, strawberries, and sugar. All three ingredients get cooked together on the stove-top. Then the mixture gets puréed. Once chilled, it's ready to be turned into luscious sorbet, perfect on a hot summer's day.

Rhubarb Sorbet

2 pounds rhubarb, ends trimmed, cut into chunks
1 cup granulated sugar
1 pound strawberries, cored, cut into chunks

Combine rhubarb and sugar with a tablespoon of water in a medium saucepan and place over medium heat. Cook the rhubarb, stirring occasionally, until it almost falls apart, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add the strawberries and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Off from the heat, purée the fruit with an immersion blender. Chill at least 2 hours or overnight.

Transfer mixture to ice cream maker and churn for about 40 minutes, depending on the machine. Transfer to a large container, such as a loaf pan, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until hard, about 12 hours or overnight. Yield: 2 quarts.

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