Perfect Pesto: The Classic Italian Recipe

August 30, 2011

pesto

Pesto is versatile as a topping, condiment, and even an ingredient in other recipes. Traditionally made in a mortar and pestle, pesto is simply a paste of herbs, nuts, and cheese. The French have their own version of pesto and so do many other European countries. But Italian pesto, originally from Genoa, is the most famous. It's a recipe that everyone knows well and loves for its simplicity and amazing flavor. That's what Italian cuisine is all about.

Pesto can be made with a number of different herbs and nuts, but classically it is made with basil, pine nuts, and Parmesan. My favorite version switches out the pine nuts for walnuts. Sometimes I also make pesto with almonds, which creates a creamier texture. Hazelnuts or pecans would also work. Try a different herb like parsley, cilantro, mint, or a combination of all of them. Pesto is all up to your creativity. After all, no recipe is set in stone.

Even though I like to use a mortar and pestle, the easiest way to make pesto is in the food processor. You can make batch after batch quickly and freeze extra amounts in plastic tubs. Pesto works great as a sandwich spread, stirred into pasta, stirred into soup, or made into a salad dressing or marinade. The possibilities are endless with this recipe.


Basil Pesto

6 cups basil leaves
2 garlic cloves
1/2 cup walnut halves
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
3/4 cup olive oil
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse basil, garlic, walnuts, and Parmesan until a thick crumbly mixture forms. With the machine running, drizzle in olive oil. The mixture should be slightly loose but still viscous. Season with salt and pepper and mix to combine. Store in an airtight plastic container with a thin film of oil on the surface of the pesto to prevent browning. Refrigerate if not using immediately. Use within 1 week. Yield: 1-1/2 cups.

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In Search of the Perfect Peach

August 23, 2011

peaches

I can't think of a fruit that I love more than peaches. These fuzzy fruits have always been special to me. I remember when I was a teenager traveling with my mom in Hungary, we had stopped by the market and happened to come across some beautiful white peaches. Of course it wasn't the first time I had eaten peaches, but it was the first time I had tasted a white peach. It was the best peach! Every peach since then has been held up to that standard. I've come close to having some bests, but none has been like that particular peach.

It's actually really funny that I like peaches. It seems genetically I was programmed not to like them. In my family, most members refuse to touch them because of their fuzz. My mom peels them. And I must confess I've also peeled a peach or two before eating, but I don't mind the fuzz. I just can't understand how anyone could let it get in their way of enjoying a lusciously juicy peach! There's no better experience when a peach is so ripe that the juices run down your arm as you bite in.

peaches

I love to get peaches at the farmers' market. Some of the best peaches I've gotten in New York City have been from Prospect Hill Orchards at the Tucker Square Greenmarket. They sell both yellow and white flesh peaches. But I always have a particular eye out for the white ones. Yellow ones are tart, tangy, and sweet. White peaches are less acidic, more mellow, and very fragrant. Peaches are available as freestones or clingstones, which simply differentiate how easy it is for the flesh to separate from the pit. If you're eating them raw, it doesn't really matter which ones you get. But you'll want the freestone variety for recipes like peach pie or cobbler so they're much less of a hassle.

peaches

It's hard to think that peaches weren't always a part of our American culture. Peaches actually originated centuries ago in China, though Europeans mistakenly thought they were from Persia. (The name "peach" is a derivation from the Latin for Persian apple.) Here in the States, peaches are mainly grown in California, New Jersey, and Georgia. Most farms have dwarf peach trees, which are created by grafting peach branches onto dwarf root stock. This makes it easy for picking. One of my favorite pick-your-own farms is Silverman's in Easton, Conn. Peach-picking with the family is a fun activity, especially when kids are included. And the best part is you can eat peaches while picking.

In my quest to find the perfect peach (again), I'll continue eating them all summer long. And I know one day soon I'll come across a peach that's just like the one I ate in Hungary so many years ago. Until then I'll bake some of my favorite peach desserts and can them and freeze them for extending the season into winter. There will be no mealy supermarket peaches for me. Juicy farm-fresh peaches all the way!

Recipes to Try
Peach Cobbler
Peach Galette
White Peach Sherbet

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Grilled Chicken Under a Brick

August 18, 2011

chicken under a brick

Everyone loves grilled chicken, but most people shy away from grilling it at home. But here's a method that has been perfected by the Italians and is uniquely different. Pollo al mattone, or chicken under a brick, is a popular dish in Tuscany, where it is often prepared by families in the countryside. It's easy to make on the grill any time. Make it this weekend before summer is completely over—your family will love you for it.

First, the chicken is specially prepared by spatchcocking, which involves removing the backbone, breastbone, and wing tips. The chicken can then be opened up and laid flat, skin-side down, on the grill. A brick or cast-iron press is placed on top to weigt the chicken down so that it cooks more evenly. This method means the bird will cook in half the time than if left whole. Plus it will produce super moist meat and crispy crackling skin.

For this recipe, I brine the chicken overnight. The brine mixture is simply salted water flavored with lots of fresh herbs and garlic. The next day, remove the chicken from the brine, rub it with oil, and it's ready to grill. It's as simple as that. Just be careful when flipping the bird—you might need to use heat-proof gloves to make it easier to move. And if the skin breaks a little as you turn, don't worry, when serving simply cover it with herbs.

Grilled Chicken Under a Brick

1 whole chicken (about 3-1/2 to 4 pounds)
2 tablespoons Kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
5 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon fresh sage leaves
1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
canola oil, for the chicken and the grill

Rinse and clean chicken. Pat dry with paper towels. Using poultry shears, remove back bone and wing tips. Break breast bone and remove. Trim any excess fat.

Combine salt, pepper, and herbs in a large bowl. Pour over with 3 cups cold water and stir until salt is dissolved. Add the chicken to the brine and transfer to the refrigerator and let stand overnight.

Heat a gas grill at medium heat.

Remove the chicken from the brine. Discard the brine. Pat the chicken dry and rub with oil. Moisten a paper towel with oil and brush the grill grates. Place the chicken skin-side down on the grates at a diagonal. Place a foil-wrapped brick or cast-iron press on top of the chicken. Grill the chickens until the skin is crisp and golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Carefully remove the brick and flip the chicken over and continue to grill until cooked through, about 15 to 20 minutes more.

To test for doneness, insert an instant-read meat thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh without touching the bone. The temperature should be about 170 degrees F. Remove the chicken to a platter and let it rest, tented with foil, about 10 to 15 minutes. Cut into 8 pieces and serve. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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Farro Caprese Salad

August 15, 2011

farro caprese salad

Insalata di Caprese is one of those classic Italian recipes that shouldn't be reinvented. It's so simple and delicious just as it is—sliced mozzarella layered with sliced tomatoes and basil leaves and drizzled with olive oil. But there is room for reinterpretation, especially when you take those familiar flavors and ingredients and turn them into a whole new kind of salad.

I love grains in all their many forms, but they are most interesting when left whole and unadulterated. Wheat berries, for example, are wonderful in a salad. The Italian grain farro, which is related to spelt, is another whole grain that makes a great salad. This recipe combines farro with the ingredients of a classic Caprese salad. All the components that make a healthy and refreshing salad are right here.

Instead of sliced mozzarella and tomatoes, I use small bocconcini and cherry and cocktail tomatoes. For added tang, I drizzle the salad with red-wine vinegar. Serve this salad in place of the usual pasta or macaroni salad at your next picnic. It's perfect as a side dish for grilled meats, like steak or chicken. But it can even make a terrific light appetizer. Add some whole grains to your diet with this recipe. It will have you going back for seconds—even thirds.

Farro Caprese Salad

1 pound farro, rinsed
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
olive oil
red-wine vinegar
1 pound bocconcini
12 ounces mixed heirloom cherry and cocktail tomatoes, halved or quartered depending on size
1/2 cup basil leaves, torn

Boil farro in liberally salted water until tender, about 30 to 40 minutes. Drain farro and spread on a tray to cool to room temperature.

Add farro to a large mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with oil and vinegar to taste. Toss to coat evenly. Fold in bocconcini, tomatoes, and basil. Serve at room temperature or chill for at least 2 hours before serving. Yield: 8 servings.

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Baba Ghanoush

August 11, 2011

baba ghanoush

During the heat of summer I'm always looking for foods that are light, refreshing, and ultimately cool. I never crave hot foods in summer—and who does? The best cuisine for staying cool under the sun has always been Mediterranean. These foods, especially the dips and spreads, never make you feel like you've been weighed down. Many vegetables make a delicious dip, but eggplant dip is particularly popular in the region and beyond.

Baba ghanoush, the famous Lebanese dip, is part of a traditional meze platter, which can include, hummus, stuffed grape leaves, olives, and flatbread. In Greece they have a similar dip called melitzanosalata. The basic recipe consists of roasted eggplant that is mashed together with garlic and parsley. Tahini (sesame seed paste) and lemon juice can also be added for more flavor. That's all you need to create this appetizer. When you're looking for something simple for summer entertaining, baba ghanoush might just be your solution.

Baba Ghanoush

Note: To make your own pita chips: Cut flatbreads into wedges and toss with a drizzling of olive oil. Toast in a 350-degree oven until light brown and crisp.

1 pound eggplant, preferably long varieties like Japanese (about 2)
1 garlic clove, mashed into a paste
1 tablespoon tahini
2 tablespoons lemon juice (about 1/2 lemon)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1/4 cup chopped parsley
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
toasted flatbreads, for serving

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Prick eggplant all over. Place on a baking sheet lined with foil. Roast until knife tender, about 20 to 30 minutes. Cut a slit into each eggplant and let cool to the touch.

Scrape eggplant into the bowl of a food processor. Discard skin. Add garlic paste, tahini, lemon juice, olive oil, and parsley. Pulse until chunky. Season with salt and pepper and pulse to combine. Chill for at least 1 to 2 hours. Spoon into a serving bowl and drizzle with olive oil. Serve with toasted flatbreads. Yield: 6 to 8 servings as an appetizer.

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Lebanese-Style Green Beans in Olive Oil

August 8, 2011

flat beans in olive oil

Green beans are one of the most popular side dishes hands down. It's most definitely a mainstay ingredient in those famous casseroles around holiday time. But there's nothing that can beat the flavor of garden fresh beans when they are in season. From slender yellow wax beans to broad fava beans, there are all kinds to be found in farmers' markets during summer. Pick up some now and make a wide selection of recipes, including this one.

Some of the best and most flavorful recipes for beans are those made in the Mediterranean style. Garlic, olive, oil, and tomatoes are key ingredients in these types of dishes. And this one is no exception. Lebanese recipes for foul mudammas (fava beans) and lubya bi zayt (green beans)—which this recipe is a version of—all start with this same base and sometimes include spices like coriander and cumin as well as fresh cilantro.

flat beans

Any fresh beans will work in this recipe. Try fava beans, wax beans, string beans, lime beans or these Italian flat beans, which are one of my favorites. Blanch the beans beforehand to cut down on cook time and help preserve the green color. I've even made this recipe with tender whole fava beans, pods and all. But with more mature favas or limas, you'll definitely want to shell the beans. Serve this dish as a mezze with flatbreads or as a side to meats. Celebrate the season of beans with this fantastically flavorful recipe.

Lebanese-Style Green Beans in Olive Oil

1 pound flat green bean, cut into 1-inch strips
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 small onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tomatoes, seeded, chopped, juices reserved
1/4 teaspoon coriander powder
1/4 teaspoon cumin powder
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
2 tablespoon lemon juice (about half lemon)

Bring a pot of water to the boil. Blanch beans until tender, about 3 to 5 minutes. Shock with cold water to preserve green color.

Warm oil in a saute pan set over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute until soft and translucent, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and saute until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes with their juices and cook until soft and pulpy, about 5 minutes. Add coriander and cumin and toast for 1 minute. Add beans and cook until warmed through and flavors are married. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in cilantro and lemon juice. Drizzle with olive oil. Serve hot or warm. Yield: 4 to 6 servings as an appetizer or side dish.

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Summer Squash Stuffed with Vegetables and Quinoa

August 3, 2011

quinoa-stuffed summer squash

Everyone loves summer squash and zucchini—they're easy to cook, eat, and grow. But when you don't have the space, the farmers' market is a great place to get your favorite vegetables. I know I always leave with at least a bagful of fresh produce. Everyone recognizes long green zucchini or crook-necked yellow squash, but there are so many more shapes and sizes to choose from. And each size or shape lends itself to different ways of cooking, but one of my favorites is stuffing them.

Squash aren't just for sautéing or steaming. These round summer squash, once roasted, are the perfect vehicle for a number of different fillings. Serve these little packages as appetizers at a summer party or for a family dinner. Meat fillings are always popular, like ground beef or pork. But during summer, when you're not in the mood for a heavy meal, a vegetarian option is always a pleasant respite from all the steaks and hamburgers.

summer squash

I love to see what the farmers are growing during the dog days of summer. This time I stopped by Sherwood Farm in Easton, Conn. and bought a bunch of vegetables, including the squashes for this recipe. For the filling I use quinoa, the nutty flavored grain that's packed with protein. Combined with sauteed vegetables and stuffed into the squash halves, it makes a flavorful dish. Make this easy recipe and serve it hot or warm as an appetizer or side. It's a refreshing addition to any summer celebration table.

Summer Squash Stuffed with Vegetables and Quinoa

Note: Cook quinoa according to package instructions: 1 cup quinoa plus 1-1/2 cups water, simmered for 12 to 15 minutes. Yield: 2 cups.

4 small round ball summer squash, halved lengthwise and seeded
olive oil
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 Hungarian wax pepper, seeded and chopped
1 yellow or green zucchini, sliced into half-moons
2 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped, juices reserved
1 cup cooked quinoa
1/4 cup chopped parsley

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Rub insides of squash halves with oil and season with salt and pepper. Place cut-side down on rimmed baking sheet. Roast until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Warm 2 tablespoons oil in a large saute pan set over medium-high heat. Saute onion until soft and translucent, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add pepper and zucchini, saute until tender, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add tomatoes and their juices; cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in quinoa and parsley. Season with salt and pepper and additional oil if needed.

Divide filling among squash halves, spooning until nicely mounded. Serve warm or at room temperature. Yield: 8 servings as an appetizer or side dish.

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Peach Cobbler

August 1, 2011

peach cobbler

There are so many great rustic American desserts to choose from, but one of the best and most popular is the cobbler. It can be sweet or savory, but it's always topped with a biscuit topping. New England specializes in desserts like the slump and grunt, which are both names for the same dessert, i.e. a stove-top version of cobbler. But cobbler is a Southern specialty. That's especially so when it's made with peaches.

When in season peaches are some of the most luscious stone fruits out there. Biting into a perfectly ripe one is an experience to be savored and remembered—sometimes for years. Can you tell I love peaches? When you crave something sweet, a peach cobbler is undoubtedly the best dessert—and Southern cobbler is exceptionally sweet. Typically cobbler is just fruit tossed with sugar and then spooned in a baking dish to be topped with dollops of biscuit batter. But there 's also a different kind of cobbler—a better cobbler.

This is a recipe done in reverse of everything that you thought to be correct. First is the batter, poured into a hot dish of melted butter. (It's almost like making popovers—the batter starts cooking immediately.) Then you spoon in the peaches on top of the batter. During baking, the peaches and the batter switch places, so the fruit is at the bottom and the batter is on top. Have you heard or seen such a thing? It's almost a miracle. What you get is an amazingly sweet pancake-like dough that's absorbed the butter and sweet peach juices, plus ultra tender fruit that melts in your mouth. Add a scoop of vanilla ice cream and you're in nirvana!

Thank you to the lady of the South, Paula Deen, for showing me this super dessert. See her bake the peach cobbler below.

Peach Cobbler

Tip: To make peeling peaches easier, dip in boiling water for a few minutes.

6 large peaches (about 2 pounds), peeled and sliced
2 tablespoons lemon juice (about 1/2 lemon)
2 cups sugar, divided
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
vanilla ice cream, for serving

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Toss sliced peaches with lemon juice and 1 cup sugar. Let macerate 5 minutes. Add to a pan and simmer over medium heat until liquid is syrupy and bubbling, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile add butter to a 3-quart deep baking dish and place in oven to melt.

In a large bowl combine flour, baking powder, remaining 1 cup sugar, and salt. Whisk to aerate. Pour in milk and whisk until smooth. Pour over melted butter in baking dish. Spoon peaches over batter and gently pour over with liquid. Do not stir the ingredients. Sprinkle top with cinnamon. Bake until puffed and golden brown, about 30 to 45 minutes. Serve hot or warm with ice cream. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.


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