Bar Q

Bar Q is definitely not your Dallas BBQ. A hyper stylized, white space, it seems more of a boutique than an Asian-fusion barbecue house as it is billed. Further underlining the boutique look, the restaurant is made up of two combined premium West Village store front spaces, which split the restaurant into two sections. One side has the bar nook along with an oyster bar. The other section has small square tables with white-leather high-backed booth seating along the main wall, horseshoe shaped booths in the front window nook, and light maple wood finishes all around. There is also an exterior space covered in glass panels resembling a greenhouse.

The cocktail menu, ranging in price from $11 to $13, is filled with fun Asian-inspired drinks: pickletini, bubble tea on the rocks, lychee cocktail, Filipino spritz, etc. A yuzu cosmo, which tasted pretty much like any other cosmo, was easily downed as no more than a spiked sweet fruit juice. A shiso julep was basically a mint julep made with the Japanese mint, but was good nonetheless.

For appetizers, the menu features many unique items; of particular interest were the lobster spring rolls, eel and scallion fritters, baby back ribs, grilled squid salad, and spit-roasted pork belly, which was my immediate favorite. I’ll take pork belly any time. The pork was roasted to the point where the skin was ultra crackly, but the meat was a bit dry and under seasoned. But it was redeemed and nicely complemented by kimchee, takuan (daikon radish pickle), and a silken tofu dipping sauce. You assemble all the components by stuffing them into a steamed bun wrapper and then stuff them into your mouth like a taco.

I generally do not care for miso at all. The smell of miso soup bring about dry heaves, but to put caution to the wind, I tried my friend’s eggplant dish, a soft and succulent grilled eggplant glazed in miso. It made use of, to me, an undesirable ingredient in a good way. And there’s really no wrong way to prepare eggplant. My dish of the Australian lamb, the most expensive item on the menu, was a grilled loan served with the specialty of the house, battered and fried garlic infused milk alongside a heap of bok choy sautéed in garlic. The waitress said that no one can resist ordering the fired milk. The loin was marinated in chili, which made it sour and tart, disguising the natural taste of lamb in a good way, especially for those averse to the taste of lamb, which can sometimes be gamey. The lamb was cooked medium—the waitress did not ask how I wanted the meat prepared—and I thus found it a bit dry for my taste. If you like silken tofu, I think you would like the fried milk. But the texture can be off putting for some. It is offered as a side dish too. I recommend eating it on its own, because too me it seems like a dish that shouldn’t compete with the flavors of other bites taken. Other quite sensationally sounding dishes on the menu include tea-smoked chicken, tea-smoked duck, and stuffed spare ribs.

For dessert, there are many unusual items including a cold coconut soup and a warm walnut one, but the desert that immediately caught my attention was the chocolate peanut butter tartelette with pandanus ice cream. The dessert is rather small and simple. It is one layer of chocolate wrapped with another layer of peanut and wrapped like a Ho Ho and sliced. Made from pandanus—a prickly globe-shaped fruit like a pineapple—the ice cream was a clean tasting refresher, like pickled ginger is to sushi. It made a good counterpoint to the chocolate-peanut combination. It was served on a bed of ground graham crackers, taken altogether with the chocolate and peanut butter swirls, the dessert reminded me of Reese’s peanut butter cups on an elite scale. Yum, yum, I’m already looking forward to my next visit.

Bar Q
308-310 Bleecker Street, between Grove Street and 7th Avenue South
New York, NY 10014
212-206-7817
Open Monday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Appetizers range in price from $8 to $16 and entrees from $19 to $29.

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Simple Tiramisu

For a lazy summer afternoon, tiramisu is the perfect pick-me-up. Its literal translation is pick me up (tira mi su). Tiramisu is one of those desserts that has as many different versions as there are mothers in Italy. This is my simple version of the easy to assemble, no-bake, no-cook dessert.

Mascarpone can be found in Italian specialty stores usually in an 8-ounce or 17-ounce container. Feel free to use all 17 ounces if purchasing the latter size. The tiramisu is best after it has been refrigerated overnight.

Notice: The American Egg Board recommends that those who are pregnant, the elderly, and very young children should avoid consuming raw eggs.

4 large eggs, separated
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
16 ounces mascarpone cheese
1-1/2 cups brewed coffee
1/2 cup coffee liqueur
40 store-bought ladyfingers
1 cup heavy cream
cocoa powder
bittersweet chocolate

In a large bowl, beat egg yolks and cup of sugar until light and fluffy. Stir in mascarpone until incorporated.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Fold in beaten egg whites into mascarpone mixture.

In a small bowl combine coffee and coffee liqueur. Dip ladyfingers one-by-one into coffee and liqueur mixture and lay in rows in the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch dish. Spread half of the mascarpone cream on top. Make one more layer of ladyfingers and the remaining mascarpone cream.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat heavy cream and tablespoon of sugar until stiff peaks form. Spread whipped cream on top.

Dust with cocoa powder and garnish with grated and/or shaved bittersweet chocolate. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. Yield: 10 to 12 slices.

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How to Market Vinegar to Billionaires

With wine prices soaring, how much would you pay for a bottle of vino? Is your usual wine under $15 or is it a bottle of Two Buck Chuck from Trader Joe’s? Either way, if you’re into adventure and wine, read The Billionaire’s Vinegar. Outlining the rise and fall of the super expensive wine market, Benjamin Wallace describes with Sherlock Holmesian detail, every person, place, and thing of, as the subtitle says, The Mystery of the World’s Most Expensive Bottle of Wine stemming from the discovery of a cache of eighteenth century wine in a Paris cellar allegedly belonging to Thomas Jefferson.

The book begins with the history-making 1985 auction of one of the first Jefferson bottles, a 1787 Lafite, inscribed with the initials “Th. J.” Led by Christie’s auctioneer Michael Broadbent, the founding director of its new wine department, the bottle sells for $156,000 to Kip Forbes, son of Malcolm Forbes, founder of Forbes magazine. The bottle was purchased for one purpose: to be displayed in a gallery, alongside many other authentic Jefferson artifacts, in the Forbes building. It never ends up being tasted or even drunk, unlike the fate of the other Jefferson bottles.

All the Jefferson bottles could be traced back to one man, a German wine collector by the name of Hardy Rodenstock. Working in the music business, among other ventures, he was known to embellish the history of his past and his name, Rodenstock threw lavish wine tastings—his first in 1980—for his customers, each one outdoing the previous. In 1985 he discovered the cache of so-called Jefferson bottles, but never revealed the specifics of the location of the discovery or the previous owner. Many wealthy individuals bought bottles directly from him or at auction. But by the early 1990s—a decade where the wine market was awash in fakes—Rodenstock’s customers began to notice that certain specific aspects were off with the bottles of wine that were being presented at the mega-tastings. At first it was assumed that a bottle of many hundred years should taste awful yet faintly of wine, but when bottles began turning up of vintages and sizes that could not possibly exist according to French wine houses, people began to wonder.

This book makes the reader wonder: Is it really that easy to fool people into believing anything about wine? It seems so. If a cask of wine discovered in a Roman cellar allegedly belonging to Caesar turns up for sale, I’m sure someone will bite.

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Guacamole

As summer approaches, so does the occasion to entertain. Here is an easy recipe for a dish that brings people together, guacamole. Whether you like it hot or mild, chunky or creamy, lemony or limey, it’s up to you. There is plenty of room for creativity when making your own guacamole.

Rosa Mexicano restaurant makes the best guacamole served with their own authentic tortilla chips, which you can buy in the market along with their salsas. This recipe is a similar but simplified version of theirs.

Tip: When dicing jalapeño peppers, remove ribs for mild to medium heat and wear gloves if you are sensitive to hot peppers.

2 ripe Hass avocados
3/4 cup diced tomato (about 1 large), seeds removed
1/4 cup diced sweet onion
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely diced
juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon sea salt
finely ground pepper

Slice avocados in half lengthwise and twist to separate halves. To remove pit, strike with a knife and twist. Slice the flesh in the skin with back of knife to form cubes. Remove flesh from skin with spoon.

Combine avocados, tomatoes, onions, cilantro, and jalapeño in large bowl and toss. If desired mash some of the avocado chunks to create a smoother guacamole.

Add at least one teaspoon of salt or more and pepper to taste. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve with tortilla chips of your choice.

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Jean Georges

From the minute you walk in Jean Georges, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s namesake restaurant, expect nothing less than pure perfection from the service to the cuisine. My dream has been to dine at Jean Georges, one of New York City’s most expensive restaurants. But it was not because of the price tag that I wanted to eat there, but because of its acclaim. Only three restaurant establishments in New York have the distinction of having been named three-star Michelin restaurants. I had previously visited Nougatine, which shares the space with Jean Georges, during restaurant week in February and I was not let down then and I was not let down again.

The two rooms of Nougatine and Jean Georges differ in design and menu, where Nougatine retains a casual French bistro quality of what Jean Georges used to be, the redesigned Jean Georges is instead contemporary with a monotone color palette of white, gray, and dark wood finishes. The interior of Jean Georges creates a soothing environment with elegant undertones. You cannot have a three-star Michelin restaurant without a little bit of showcase, here most evident in the leather sofas, large silver service trays, and push carts, which adds a bit of old-fashioned charm. So for an unforgettable dining experience I made reservations for lunch the day before for my mom and me.

On entry we were warmly welcomed by one hostess and soon taken in to the dining room by another hostess. We were seated comfortably in a corner, which afforded a bird’s-eye view of the dining room and its patrons. I kept noticing all throughout our two-hour lunch that many of the restaurant patrons were twenty-year olds, which left me very intrigued. Soon after being seated, our suited waiter, who seemed to be one of two main waiters, asked if we wanted to take a look at the wine menu. I gladly looked through the wine menu, and after noticing some of the exorbitant prices, ordered glasses of the 2005 Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia and the 2006 Fritz Hag Riesling. The Riesling was light and sweet, while the Cabernet was a perfect red color and tasted of berries. Both wines were good complements to our courses to follow.

The restaurant features a two-course $28 prix-fixe lunch menu, and with each additional plate for $12. Lunch is the best time to experience the restaurant for less than third of the dinner price. For a first course we both ordered fish and for a second course we ordered meat. We enjoyed delicious breads of brown sourdough and white rolls with soft butter while tasting our wines before receiving our amuse-bouches. We were served a small glass of edamame soup, a grilled shrimp skewer, and a mango cube. The edamame soup was just that, liquefied soybeans and topped off with lemon foam. I was expecting a cold soup but was pleasantly surprised to find it warm, which brought out a complex and herby flavor. The shrimp on a skewer with a sliver of fennel and garnish of fennel frond was a perfect crunchy morsel. And I especially liked the small cube of mango, which was dusted with dehydrated black olive crumbs.

Soon after we began the first course, a fish course. The arctic char was topped with sautéed onions and thinly sliced green asparagus with its skin fried separately and presented vertically on top of the dish, which was finished tableside with a dressing of ginger sabayon. The skin was a perfect chip, seasoned well and crackly, and the fish was perfectly cooked and complemented nicely by the vegetables and sauce, lending a faint Asian flavor. The flavors were subtle enough for the most non-adventurous eater too; thus the dish was perfect for my mom who shies away from sushi, ceviche, and tartare. I had the red snapper crusted with ground nuts and seeds, served over a sweet and sour jus that included red and yellow cherry tomatoes, pearl onions, and potatoes. Once again the fish was perfect, the skin was crispy underneath the coating, but soon softened. The fish was served in a multifaceted cubist bowl, which made it seem even more unique. When ordering I could not make my decision between the snapper and the steamed halibut with mushrooms and lemongrass consommé, but the waiter recommended the snapper for its boldness of flavor over the subtle Asian flavors of the halibut. I like the trend of serving fish with unusual broths, but I do not go for mushrooms with fish, so my decision was made easier. I did like the sweet and sour jus, but found it to be a bit too sweet after a while, maybe a bit more sourness or acidity would have made its boldness more to my liking.

If you are in for an indulgence, the new summer menu features a terrine of foie gras with strawberries, strawberry syrup, and a twenty-five-year-old balsamic vinegar reduction. It is pure decadence. The terrine is covered with a caramelized crust that melts in your mouth, while the the liver is as smooth as silk. The sweet strawberry and vinegar provide a counterbalance to the richness of the fatty liver.

On to the second course, the meats: the confit of chicken leg was crusted with Parmesan and served elegantly on a bed of white asparagus spears in a basil and butter sauce. The chicken was tender and full flavored while also pleasingly homey and cosy. I enjoyed the spare rib, which the menu specifies as ‘spare rib vinaigrette, spring pea puree, and baby carrots.’ It seemed the spare rib was marinated in a barbecue-type sauce that they named a vinaigrette. The spare rib was one of the best pieces of meat I have had in a long time. I do not usually use the word wielded by many gourmands, but I will use it here, the spare rib was superbly unctuous. (In her book The Tenth Muse, Judith Jones used the term to describe her consumption of a fried beaver’s tail.) The peas tasted purely of peas, reminding me, in fact, of mushy peas served commonly with fish and chips in Britain. I used to hate peas as a child, and the pureed peas brought back to mind the reason why: they are mushy when overcooked, but these were not. (It would be interesting to taste pea caviar à la Ferran Adrià.)

We went on to order two $8 dessert tastings, of which there were four to choose from: rhubarb, cherry, chocolate, and citrus, each consisting of two desserts. I had a very hard decision ahead of me, and was caught between the rhubarb and cherry. The cherry includes the rhubarb clafoutis with a whipped strawberry crème fraîche and the rhubarb ricotta, red sumac sablé (a thin cracker-like cookie), and pickled rhubarb. The cherry tasting was a recent addition and I chose it for that reason. It included a cherry and crème fraîche sponge cake with sangria-soaked cherries, garnished with pine-gel droplets and pine needle snippings and then a scoop of half pistachio ice cream, half cherry sorbet served on top of chopped pistachios, garnished with freeze-dried cherries. The ice cream and sorbet was by far my favorite because I love pistachios. But I also was impressed by the concentration of flavor in the freeze-dried cherries and the pine gel, which tasted as best I can describe, of Christmas, made from what else but pine needles. I highly recommend the cherry tasting over the rhubarb, which I ate at a later date and did not enjoy as much as the cherry. We also ordered the must-have signature chocolate tasting, which included the molten chocolate cake with vanilla-bean ice cream, and then a gianduja (chocolate-nut paste) gnocchi rolled in toasted hazelnut flakes, served on top of a grapefruit and vanilla-bean gel. And on the heels of our dessert tastings we were served complementary dessert: a wide selection of macaroons, petits fours, and marshmallows.

I don’t think there is anything unpleasant that can be said of Jean Georges. Jean-Georges has put his unique stamp on French cuisine, Orientalizing it a bit, and making it interesting, lighter, more flavorful, and simpler, what I would call a paring down of fussy French food to the most simple and elegant purist substances. But to demonstrate this involves new procedures or ingredient combinations, e.g. experimental cuisine, that produce complexity in flavor. I think that almost any of the choices on the menu achieve this. With its many exceptional menu offerings, airy and comfortable dining room, and knowledgeable and deft wait staff, there is more than enough reason to go back to Jean Georges countless times, if you can afford it.

Jean Georges
Trump International Hotel and Tower
1 Central Park West
New York, NY 10023
212-299-3900
Open daily for dinner from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. and for lunch Monday through Friday from 12 p.m. to 2:30 p.m.
The three-course dinner tasting menu is $98, and the Jean-Georges menu and seasonal menu are both $148.
The two-course lunch tasting menu is $28, with each additional plate at $12, and the lunch dessert tasting is $8.

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Cajun-Style Grilled Shrimp Skewers

For a fun weekend barbecue, these Cajun-style grilled shrimp make a great appetizer or main course. Served with rice and a wedge of lemon, they are a perfect way to celebrate the ushering in of summer.

The recipe uses bell peppers and onions, but feel free to substitute other vegetables and fruits, like cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, or pineapple chunks.

Tip: Grill atop a layer of aluminum foil when using an outdoor grill for easy cleanup and to keep down flames.

2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/3 cup olive oil
2 large cloves garlic, minced
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning
handful parsley, chopped
salt
pepper
1/2 green bell pepper
1/2 red bell pepper
1/2 yellow bell pepper
1/2 large white onion
bamboo skewers, soaked in water

In a large bowl, combine olive oil, garlic, lemon, Cajun seasoning, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Add shrimp and toss to coat. Marinate for 1 to 2 hours in the refrigerator.

Preheat a grill or grill pan over medium-high heat.

Cut the bell peppers and the onion into 1-inch squares. Add vegetables to same bowl as shrimp; stir to coat with marinade. Skewer the vegetables and shrimp, alternating with pepper and onion and then shrimp. Each skewer should fit about 5 shrimp.

Grill for about 3 minutes per side or until the shrimp turn pink. Yield: 4 servings.

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