Wild Mushroom and Goat Cheese Fagottini

I initially discovered this unusual and unique filled pasta shape not in Italy but in England. You might have read the story about my love for all filled pastas in this post on beet green ravioli. It was in the Sainsbury's supermarket in London where I first encountered these dumpling-like little packages. The first time I saw the pyramid shapes in the refrigerated section of the store, I was mesmerized. Since then I've looked for fagottini everywhere but have yet to find them here in the states. So, I decided to replicate the pasta from scratch.

I tried to create a recipe very similar to the pasta I had enjoyed while studying abroad. For me, the flavors of wild mushrooms and goat cheese of the store-brand package could not be beat. For my filling I used the Italian cremini and the Asian shitake mushroooms, but you can use any blend of mushrooms that you like. I happened to use what was available in the market. The more wild the variety, the better the flavor. Both cremini and shitake are now cultivated, so they are not that wild any longer. But their earthy flavors and musty smells still engender images of the dark forest.

Also included in the filling is the famous cheese of Rome, Pecorino Romano. Made of sheep's milk, its sharp and salty flavor nicely complements many boldly flavored pasta dishes. You will commonly find it grated over pasta all'amatriciana, which has guanciale (salt-cured pig's jowl) as its featured ingredient. Here the cheese works harmoniously with the goat cheese in the filling and, along with a drizzle of olive oil, becomes the simple finishing topping.

Wild Mushroom and Goat Cheese Fagottini

For the pasta dough:
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 large egg yolk

For the filling:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
8 ounces cremini mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and sliced
8 ounces shitake mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and sliced
1 8-ounce log goat cheese
1/4 cup Pecorino Romano cheese
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg white

To make the dough, combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Create a well in the center and add the eggs and egg yolk. Using a fork, beat the eggs while mixing in the flour a little at a time. Once the dough has come together, if it is too dry and crumbly, a little water can be added.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Form into a ball and knead until the dough takes on a smooth surface, about 10 minutes.

Form the dough into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Let it rest for about 20 to 30 minutes at room temperature.

To make the filling, heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and shallot; cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add thyme and mushrooms. Cook, stirring constantly, until all moisture is lost, about 5 to 10 minutes.

Once slightly cooled, add the mushrooms to a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Turn out into a medium bowl. Add goat cheese and Pecorino; season with salt and pepper. Add egg white and stir to combine.

To make the pasta, cut the disk into about 4 to 6 pieces. Work with only one piece at a time and keep the remaining pieces wrapped in plastic wrap. Form the piece into a flat disk, lightly flour, and feed it into the machine starting with the largest setting. Fold the dough in half and roll it through again. Now start moving onto the next setting and so on until the next-to-last setting is reached. The pasta should be silky smooth and less than 1/16-inch in thickness.

Lay the long sheet of pasta on a lightly floured work surface. Cut off the rounded ends. Using a decorative pastry cutter or a sharp knife, cut the sheet into small squares of equal size.

Using a teaspoon, drop balls of filling onto each square. Brush around the filling with a bit of water. Take the square in hand and bring all the corners together, firmly pressing the edges to seal the dough while removing as much air as possible. Place onto a lightly floured tray or towel. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Scraps of dough can also be reformed and rerolled on the machine.

Bring a large pot of liberally salted water to a rapid boil. Add the fagottini in small batches and cook until al dente, about 5 minutes. Stir now and then to prevent sticking. Serve drizzled with olive oil and grated Pecorino. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Continue Reading »

Summer Corn Chowder

Summertime is all about the backyard barbecue and grilling practically anything, from meats to vegetables and fruit. Grilled corn has always been a summer mainstay at my house. Summer just is not complete without eating tender grilled sweet corn on the cob while sitting outside in lawn chairs and watching the sun go down. For me it's no butter or salt but just corn au naturel. How do you like to eat your corn?

My second favorite way to enjoy corn is in a chowder. There is no better way to utilize leftover grilled corn than in a hearty soup. This Southwestern-style corn chowder combines colorful bell peppers, starchy potatoes, a jalapeño for some kick, and a bit of cream for extra richness. It's a recipe that you will want to come back to time and again. You might even find yourself grilling corn just to make the chowder. Enjoy the golden vegetable while it's in season.

With so many different ways to grill corn, here is what I think is the easiest method. First start with very fresh corn. To prepare the corn for grilling, soak the ears, with husks on, in cold water for about an hour. Then wrap them in aluminum foil. Grill the corn on low heat for 30 minutes, rotating the parcels now and then to make sure all sides are grilled. You will have perfectly grilled corn that is tender, moist, and concentrated in its sweetness.

Summer Corn Chowder

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 pound potatoes (about 2 medium), peeled and diced
3 cups chicken stock
4 ears grilled sweet corn, sliced from the cob
1 cup heavy cream
bacon, for garnish

Heat oil in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic; cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add peppers and cook for a few minutes more. Season with salt and pepper. Add thyme, potatoes, and chicken stock; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add corn and cream. Return to a simmer for a few minutes more. Check for seasoning. Garnish with bacon. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Continue Reading »

Summer Cocktails

Summer is in full swing and with the weather reaching higher temperatures, there's more reason than ever to cool down with a chilled beverage. For me summer is incomplete without enjoying a great cocktail at an outdoor party. With the fourth of July just days away, what better way to celebrate than with a refreshing drink in hand? Grab one of these three and join the revelry.

I've updated my favorite drink, the gimlet, by making it with freshly squeezed lime juice and a touch of syrup for sweetness. For a fizzy drink, I came up with the Ruby Sparkler, which combines, vodka, ruby red grapefruit juice, and grenadine for a bit of pomegranate sweetness and color. And the Citrus Breeze is my combination of the most refreshing flavors, rum, mint, and a blend of three different freshly squeezed citrus fruits. There's a drink here for everyone to enjoy.

I enjoy making my own syrups. It's great to have a few different ones on hand. You never know when you might need to mix a drink for friends or family that stop by unannounced.

To make your own simple syrup, bring 1 cup of water to a boil and then lower to a simmer. Add 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar and heat until dissolved and thick syrup forms. Once cooled, store the syrup in a jar in the refrigerator. Yield: 1 cup.

To make your own grenadine, bring 2 cups of pomegranate juice to a boil and then lower to a simmer. Once reduced by half, add 1 cup granulated sugar and heat until dissolved. Once cooled, store the syrup in a jar in the refrigerator. Yield: 1 cup.

Modern Gimlet

2 ounces gin
1 ounce lime juice
1/2 ounce simple syrup
lime or lemon twist, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine gin, lime juice, simple syrup, and a few ice cubes. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with lime or lemon twist. Yield: 1 drink.

Ruby Sparkler

1 ounce vodka
1 ounce ruby red grapefruit juice
1/2 ounce grenadine
seltzer
raspberries, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine, vodka, grapefruit juice, grenadine, and a few ice cubes. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled wine flute. Top with seltzer and garnish with raspberries. Yield: 1 drink.

Citrus Breeze

2 lemon wedges
6 mint leaves
1 ounce golden rum
1 ounce golden grapefruit juice
1 ounce orange juice
1/4 ounce simple syrup
mint sprig, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, muddle together lemon wedges and mint leaves. Add rum, grapefruit juice, orange juice, simple syrup, and a few ice cubes. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled old-fashioned glass with ice. Garnish with mint sprig. Yield: 1 drink.

Continue Reading »

Strawberry Mascarpone Tart

Strawberries, the most popular berry fruit, are in high season right now and I'm thoroughly enjoying eating them every which way. Strawberries have always been a special part of summer for me. I can hardly remember a summer that I didn't go strawberry picking with my family. At the pick-your-own farm we would eat them right off the bush. Their flavor is so concentrated when eaten warm, heated by the sunlight. Now I don't so much eat them off the bush, but instead try to come up with new ways to serve the fruit.

This summer I decided to make a tart instead of the traditional strawberry pie. This tart features a sweetened mascarpone cheese base, topped with macerated fresh strawberries, all glazed with a syrup of the reserved berry juices and a touch of balsamic vinegar. Except for the tart shell, there is no baking involved. So it's very easy to put together for a family party, picnic, or the upcoming fourth of July holiday. Celebrate summer with strawberries.

When picking or shopping for strawberries, look for firm, unblemished fruit with their green caps intact. The deeper color red, the riper and more flavorful. Berries that have green or yellow spots are unripe and may taste sour. To store, remove any bad berries because as the saying goes: one bad apple spoils the whole bunch. Then place unwashed berries on paper towels, layer in a container, and refrigerate for up to 3 days. When ready to use, simply trim and wash.

Strawberry Mascarpone Tart

Recipe adapted from Simply Recipes.

2 pounds strawberries
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 tablespoons lemon juice
12 ounces mascarpone cheese
1/3 cup confectioners sugar
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Remove stems, hull, and halve or quarter strawberries depending on size. In a large bowl, combine strawberries, granulated sugar, lemon zest, and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Place in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes to macerate.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, mascarpone, vanilla extract, and confectioners sugar. Mix thoroughly until silky smooth. Refrigerate until ready to use.

To make the glaze, strain the macerated strawberries over a small saucepan. Add balsamic vinegar and heat over medium-high until liquid is reduced by more than half. It should foam and thicken to a syrup. Let cool to room temperature.

Spread chilled mascarpone mixture in tart shell. Arrange strawberries on top. Brush with glaze. Serve immediately. Yield: 8 slices.

Tart Shell

Tip: A small portion of whole-wheat pastry flour in the dough makes the tart shell extra crispy. If not at hand, use all-purpose flour.

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk
3 to 4 tablespoons ice water

In a large bowl, combine flours, sugar, and salt. Mix together with a whisk to aerate

Add butter and work with a pastry blender until mixture resembles course meal.

In a small bowl, beat together egg yolk and 3 tablespoons ice water. Drizzle liquid mixture into dry ingredients. Mix until dough comes together. If too dry, 1 tablespoon ice water can be added.

Form the dough into a flat disc and wrap in plastic. Chill for at least 1 hour before rolling.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Roll out tart dough between two pieces of plastic wrap to fit a 10-inch fluted tart pan. Carefully lay dough over pan. Press dough up into the sides. Remove excess dough by running rolling pin over pan. Fill any holes or cracks with excess dough.

Chill shell for 10 minutes. Using a fork, prick the bottom of the pan all over. Line the inside of the pan with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake for 10 minutes. Then carefully remove pie weights with foil. Continue to bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely.

Continue Reading »

Gluten-Free Chocolate Financiers

The combination of chocolate and almonds is one one of my favorite things. The dessert that incorporates these two ingredients beautifully is the French tea cookie, the financier. Traditionally made in small rectangular molds so that they resemble gold bars, these little cookies were eaten by on-the-go people who worked in the financial district in France. Not limited to French financiers any longer, these cookies can be easily made and enjoyed anywhere by anyone. They make a fine finish to any meal, go well with afternoon tea, or are just as nice with a mid-morning coffee break.

The really special thing about this recipe is that it uses no flour at all. It's completely gluten free. Since I had my aunt who was recently diagnosed with celiac disease visit last week, I knew I had to make these for her. To make them extra nutty, I browned the butter. It's a traditional step that should not be skipped in making flavorful financiers. Crisp on the outside and soft and crumbly on the inside, these treats turned out to be very enjoyable, even for the regular-diet folks.

Gluten-Free Chocolate Financiers

This recipe is adapted from Smitten Kitchen, who adapted it from Gluten-Free Girl, who got it from David Lebovitz. I used almond meal/flour. If not available, grind slivered almonds in a food processor and measure 1 cup.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup almond meal/flour
4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup confectioners sugar
2 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon almond extract

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Butter a cupcake tin.

In a small saucepan, melt the butter on low heat until it starts to turn brown.

In a medium bowl, combine the almond meal, cocoa powder, salt, and confectioners sugar. Stir in the egg whites until incorporated. Then gradually stir in the brown butter and almond extract until incorporated.

Divide the batter evenly in the cupcake tin using a mini releasable ice cream scoop or two spoons. Fill each about 1/2 full. Bake until set, about 10 minutes. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely. Yield: 12 financiers.

Continue Reading »

Radishes with Blue Cheese and Butter Spread

I love the crunch of radishes. It's a sound that resonates with all the radish-lovers in my family especially my mother, the biggest lover of the crunchy root vegetable. I learned to love radishes form her. At first I didn't appreciate their mild, earthy flavor, but then I came to love them more for their watery crunch. Then I discovered they could also be spicy and peppery. I have been an aficionado for many years now. Every spring I look for the best and brightest ones.

Radishes are best enjoyed raw, sliced thinly, and served alongside cold meats and charcuterie. From my mom I learned to eat my radishes on a bed of blue cheese and butter spread on crusty bread. With her in mind, I created this spread/dip that includes chopped chives for a bit of onion flavor. The dip works great with crudités as well. Here I serve the dip with a selection of crackers and of course the radishes.



In my search at the Greenmarket a few weeks ago, I found the most colorful varieties: Purple Plum, Pink Beauty, Ping Pong, Cherry Belle, and French Breakfast. I had to stop myself from buying a bunch of each, but I ended up choosing the bright Purple Plum. It's a variety that supposedly stays fresh longer and is a bit spicier than the regular Cherry Belle radishes, which is the common variety found in markets.

When shopping for radishes, look for firm roots and bright, unwilted greens. Stay away form radishes that look old as they can be pithy. Once home from the market, trim the greens and roots, and scrub them clean. Store the radishes in a tub of water, which will help them stay crisp. This is a tip I learned from my uncle. Change the soaking liquid every other day and the radishes should keep for up to one week.

Blue Cheese and Butter Spread

6 ounces blue cheese, room temperature
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
3 tablespoons chopped chives

In a small bowl, combine cheese and butter. Mash with a fork until it is thoroughly combined. Add chives and mix until incorporated. Serve with thinly sliced radishes. Yield: 1 cup.

Continue Reading »