Chicken Piccata

It's day 3 of following eGullet's project to cook for a week from ingredients in your home without going shopping. For this recipe I defrosted two chicken breast halves over last night. And with a jar of capers from the pantry, I thought I'd make a simple chicken piccata. I chose to use one of my favorite flours, Wondra. It gives such a unique coating to meats when pan fried. It's usually used for making gravies because it dissolves instantly without forming lumps, but as the name implies, it works wonders on just about anything.

To serve with this quick meal, I had a bunch of white asparagus I bought last week. I know they're not in season in the Northeast, but at least they were from California. And they were on sale too. The spears of asparagus, steamed just until tender but with a little crunch, nicely complement the pan-fried chicken. If cooked just right, the breasts should be crispy on the outside and moist on the inside. Make sure you let the breasts rest, like with any meat, so that the internal juices redistribute. This recipe is easy to do and so rewarding at the table.

Chicken Piccata

2 boneless and skinless chicken breasts
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons Wondra flour
6 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoon butter
2 garlic cloves, grated
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed

Remove the breast tenders and reserve for another dish. Pound the chicken breasts between parchment paper to 1/2-inch thick. Season with salt and pepper and coat with flour.

Heat a heavy-bottomed pan over medium high. Add 3 tablespoons oil and chicken breasts; cook for 3 minutes per side. Remove chicken from pan and let rest.

Wipe out pan. Allow it to reheat on medium. Add butter and the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Add garlic and capers. Saute until the garlic starts to take on color but not burn. Immediately pour sauce on top of chicken breasts. Yield: 2 servings.

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Cajun-Style Brown Rice

Here's another day of following eGullet's project to cook without shopping for a week by simply using the ingredients you have on hand in your home. Today I discovered a half bag of brown rice, a lone red bell pepper, some leftover celery, and an onion. Since Mardi Gras is tomorrow, why not make a jambalaya? So with this adapted trinity (the typical trinity uses a green bell pepper) I created a festive and healthy dish. I could have added chicken and sausage to keep it traditional, but since I did not have either, I decided to make a vegetarian version. In the end I had a paella-like Cajun side dish that I could pair with anything even leftovers. Using the brown rice rather than white made it even more nontraditional, but it made it more interesting and healthier.

Since it's a whole grain, brown rice is a much better choice than white rice. It's high in fiber, more nutritious, and has a slight nutty flavor. Its texture is chewy, akin to al dente pasta. The only downside is that brown rice has a shorter shelf life than white. In its original packaging brown rice can last for about six months before going rancid, but it stays longer in an airtight container. Brown rice is really a satisfying replacement for white in this spicy and flavorful dish.

Cajun-Style Brown Rice

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/4 teaspoon hot paprika or cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
2 cups cooked brown rice

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Add onion, celery, and bell pepper. Sauté until onion is caramelized and celery and bell pepper are soft, about 10 to 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste; add spices. Add remaining tablespoon of oil and the cooked rice and sauté for a few minutes so that the rice toasts in the oil and takes on the color of the paprika. Yield: 2 servings.

Brown Rice

1-1/2 cups long-grain brown rice
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt

In a medium pot with a tight-fitting lid, bring 3 cups of water to a boil. Add salt and rice and lower heat to a simmer. Do not stir rice. Cover and let cook until rice is tender and all liquid is absorbed, about 30 to 40 minutes. Let stand covered for an additional 10 minutes. Yield: 4-1/2 cups.

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Spaghetti with Pancetta and Peas

Have you opened your freezer lately? I bet it's completely full just like mine. And how about the pantry? Does it still look like it's stocked for Y2K? Maybe it's time to start using what you have in your home instead of going grocery shopping. Inspired by eGullet's project to cook without shopping for a week (also mentioned on Diner's Journal), I did just that and created this recipe from ingredients already in my kitchen. In the freezer I had a package of peas and sliced pancetta leftover from this Boeuf Bourguignon. In the refrigerator I had a pint of sour cream and a block of Parmesan cheese. In the cupboard I had a box of spaghetti. My staple ingredients included oil, shallots, garlic, and black pepper.

All these ingredients come together to form a luscious pasta dish in anticipation of springtime. The peas provide bursts of verdant flavor and the pancetta a salt-and-brine flavor. The combination of sour cream and Parmesan cheese with some pasta water creates the perfect sauce. But the best part about this recipe is the endless possibility for reinterpretation depending upon what you have. The ingredients do not have to be the exact ones mentioned here. Use bacon instead of pancetta. Use heavy cream or milk instead of sour cream. Use fettuccine instead of spaghetti. It's up to you to experiment and have fun with it.

Spaghetti with Pancetta and Peas

12 ounces spaghetti
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 ounces pancetta, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 10-ounce package frozen peas
1/4 cup sour cream
freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more

Cook spaghetti according to package directions in liberally salted water. Reserve 1/2 cup pasta water.

Heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Cut pancetta into small pieces and add to pan. Cook until fat has rendered, about 5 minutes.

Add shallot and garlic, and cook for a few minutes further. Add peas and cook until tender but still bright green, about 5 minutes.

Add cooked pasta and the reserved pasta water. Stir in sour cream and cheese; toss until melted and sauce has formed. Serve with additional grated Parmesan. Yield: 4 servings.

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Shrimp Fra Diavolo

I love pasta and seafood together, especially shrimp and pasta. This dish is dressed fra diavolo, like a devilish friar. Supposedly named after a Neapolitan guerrilla fighter, this recipe is a rather traditional take on the southern Italian specialty. A little heat with peperoncino (red pepper flakes) along with the red color of the tomato sauce give the meal a hellish flair. Pair with wine and no one can resist.

Make sure you start cooking the linguine in time so that it is ready to go once the sauce has finished cooking. You don't need to drain or rinse the pasta. Simply use tongs to transfer the cooked linguine directly to the sauce, which will better adhere to the starchy pasta.

Shrimp Fra Diavolo

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
1 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
1 16-ounce package linguine
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Add shrimp, red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper, to taste. Cook, tossing, until opaque and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove shrimp from pan.

To the hot pan add 1 tablespoon oil, onion, and garlic; sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, wine, and seasoning. Simmer until the sauce thickens, about 15 minutes.

While sauce simmers, cook linguine according to package directions in liberally salted water. Return shrimp to pan and add pasta directly to pan. Toss to coat pasta and warm shrimp throughout. Add parsley. Finish with salt and pepper to taste. Yield: 6 servings.

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Almond Linzer Cookie Hearts with Blackberry Jam

Little siblings of the traditional Austrian-Hungarian Linzertorte, Linzer cookies are very much a favorite in my family. These crumbly pastries are perfect for any holiday table. Make them round like wreaths for Christmas and for Valentine's Day make them heart shaped.

This recipe is rather simple. The dough can be made the day before and left in the refrigerator until it's time to roll the cookies. I used ground almonds in this recipe, but any ground nut, specifically walnuts, pecans, or hazelnuts, work well. Make sure you refrigerate the dough in between batches. It will be easier to handle and the cookies will look neat and sharp once baked.

Almond Linzer Cookie Hearts with Blackberry Jam

3/4 cup ground almonds
2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup light-brown sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon pure almond extract
seedless blackberry jam

In a medium bowl, whisk together dry ingredients: ground almonds, flour, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add egg and extracts; mix until combined. Add the dry ingredients a little at a time on low speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Mix until combined.

Form dough into two disks and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before rolling.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line baking sheets with oven-safe parchment paper or Silpats.

Roll out one disk of dough between two pieces of plastic wrap to about 1/8-inch thickness. Keep second disk in refrigerator until ready to roll. Cut out cookies and transfer to lined baking sheet, arranging no more than 1 inch apart. Cut out centers of half the cookies. Reshape scraps of dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and keep in refrigerator until ready to roll again.

Bake cookies until golden, about 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool completely. Spread cookie bottoms with about 1 teaspoon of jam and cover with top, squeezing together and removing any excess that comes out. Yield: 24 sandwiched cookies.

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Escarole and White Bean Soup

Escarole, a delicious bitter green from the chicory family, is one of my favorite greens to have in soup. I love it either in the traditional Italian wedding soup or this version with white beans. The soup is so filling on its own even without meat. But cooked sausage or shredded chicken makes a great addition if you are so inclined. This soup is perfect to enjoy on a cozy day at home.

Make sure you wash the escarole very well. Separate the leaves and rinse them in a bowl of water. Use a salad spinner to get the last remainders of water off from the leaves. Slice with a knife or tear into rustic pieces and they are ready to be sautéed. An entire head of escarole may seem like too much, but the leaves do cook down.

Escarole and White Bean Soup

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 head escarole (about 1 pound), washed, dried, and torn into pieces
8 cups chicken stock
2 15-ounce cans cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice, drained
1 small chunk Parmesan rind
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic; sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add escarole and sauté until wilted, about 5 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add chicken stock, Parmesan, beans, and tomatoes. Cover and simmer on medium low heat until escarole is tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Yield: 8 servings.

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Balthazar

I have always wanted to eat at Balthazar. After many years of fruitlessly trying to go to Balthazar, I finally succeeded. Maybe it was the way the restaurant teased me over these past few years that I had become thoroughly intrigued: The restaurant’s Parisian frontage and the crowds of diners seen through the windows beckoned me. Maybe it was the promise of la vie Bohème. From afar Balthazar has that je-ne-sais-quoi look, but from up close it seems just a bit faux and overdone. I think the restaurant tries too hard to look authentic with its crackled mirrors, dark paneling, and dim light fixtures.

To make sure I got in this time, I made reservations almost three weeks in advance, but I still could not get the specific time I wanted. Still the eventual time was suitable enough for a stress-relieving Friday night out this past week with my friend Amanda of the Undomestic Goddess. When we arrived, one of the many hostesses confirmed that indeed the reservation was made, but then told us to wait for the maître d’ to direct us to our seats. A little confusion followed in which we were stormed by a large group coming from the bar area and then another group entering. We almost didn’t get served—a somewhat sordid start to an evening meant for relaxing.

At our seats we unloaded our winter gear, though checking our coats might have been a better idea as my chair decided to do a somersault later on. I already knew what I wanted to order from the menu, of course I had just about memorized it over the years, so we ordered almost right away. While we awaited our food, we very much enjoyed the Balthazar Bakery breads. The bakery always has the freshest artisanal goods. The only caveat was that the butter could have been at room temperature. For an appetizer we ordered the grilled squid with lemon roasted potatoes and arugula. The squid was good but a bit too salty, whereas the potatoes were underseasoned, overcooked, and sour. I had no fault with the arugula except that it seemed out of place. I think the dish would have been better if it had just been the squid with a squeeze of lemon.

We decided to enjoy our evening with more than just the wine-by-the-glass offerings. I ordered a reasonably priced 15-ounce carafe of Côtes du Rhône. When asked about the wine the waitress seemed knowledgeable and was able to describe the differences between the two choices of red wines by the carafe. We decided upon the Le Grange de Piaugier for its full-bodied blend of Syrah and Grenache. With the $18 carafe we each had about a glass and a half of wine.

For entrées I ordered the grilled lamb T-bones with potatoes Dauphinoise. It was a very good choice, but it needed some salt. I usually never salt in restaurants, but the meat and potatoes required it. I wished that some vegetables might have been provided. In this day and age where nutritionists tell us that half our plate should be made up of vegetables, this plate didn’t have any. It took a while to carve off all the little bits of meat from the two T-bones I got and I didn’t want to let any go to waste. Most of the evening was spent with my friend Amanda watching me carve my meat. She ordered the duck confit with crispy potatoes and frisée salad. The duck was succulent with crispy skin with only a few dry bits of meat here and there. The potatoes on the other hand were akin to a bag of potato ships. So I ended up donating half my potatoes to Amanda to make her meal a little more satisfying.

We originally were set to share one dessert, but we felt we still had plenty of room for our own desserts. Sometimes it's just better to keep one's dessert to oneself. The warm chocolate cake with white chocolate ice cream was standard faire, however, nowhere near as good as those expertly made by Johnny Iuzzini at Jean Georges. The caramelized banana ricotta tart with banana ice cream was rather good. I thoroughly enjoyed the banana ice cream but was let down by the small amount of ricotta inside the center of the tart, it only amounted to about a tablespoonful. The bananas could have been a touch riper. I’m not a banana fan, but this tart could have changed my mind.

By the end of our dinner we were well sated and ready to leave. It was just so horribly crowded, hot, and smelly in there that much of the evening was spent peeling off layer after layer and sweating it out. Could a combination sauna and restaurant possibly be a good thing? I guess there's no weight gain. Maybe I'll end up at Balthazar again but I won't be seeking it out as I've done all these years past. I mean it's just another restaurant with a French shtick in a long line of French restaurants in the city. I think there's better to be found.

Balthazar
80 Spring Street, between Broadway and Crosby Street
New York, NY 10012
212-965-1414
Open daily, Monday through Thursday 7:30 to 12 a.m., Friday and Saturday until 1 a.m., and Sunday 8 to 12 a.m.
Appetizers range in price from $10 to $24 and entrées from $19 to $38.

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Cranberry-Banana Quinoa Bread

Quinoa, an ancient South American grain, has multiple uses like breakfast cereal, a side dish, and even a quick bread. The best thing about Quinoa is its nutritional value: it is high in protein and fiber; it is perfect for those who maintain a gluten-free diet. This bread recipe uses gluten-free flour, making it suitable and highly enjoyable for this special diet. You can use any pre-mixed gluten-free flour like I did, or make your own mix. It should contain a few different flours like garbanzo, rice, or quinoa flour and starches like potato or tapioca.

Since banana bread is one of my favorite breads and also a favorite for many, I think this recipe is highly appealing to everyone and not just those on gluten-free diets. I mix in dried cranberries for a little tartness. You can add any dried fruits or nuts such as raisins, cherries, walnuts, or pecans. For a sweetener, I like to add a little honey, which lends a floral scent, and sugar rounds out the sweetness. Enjoy for breakfast with coffee or with an afternoon cup of tea.

Cranberry-Banana Quinoa Bread

1/2 cup quinoa flakes
1/2 cup gluten-free flour
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 ripe bananas
2 eggs
2 tablespoons honey
1/2 cup dried cranberries

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. In a large bowl, mix together dry ingredients: quinoa flakes, flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder and soda. In a small bowl mash bananas; add eggs and honey, mixing well.

Add wet ingredients to dry ingredients and mix well; add dried cranberries, mixing until just combined. Pour into an oiled medium (8-1/2-by-4-1/2-by-2-1/2-inch) loaf pan. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely. Slice with a serrated knife. Yield: 10 slices.

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