Strawberry Mascarpone Tart

June 30, 2009

strawberry tart

Strawberries, the most popular berry fruit, are in high season right now and I'm thoroughly enjoying eating them every which way. Strawberries have always been a special part of summer for me. I can hardly remember a summer that I didn't go strawberry picking with my family. At the pick-your-own farm we would eat them right off the bush. Their flavor is so concentrated when eaten warm, heated by the sunlight. Now I don't so much eat them off the bush, but instead try to come up with new ways to serve the fruit.

This summer I decided to make a tart instead of the traditional strawberry pie. This tart features a sweetened mascarpone cheese base, topped with macerated fresh strawberries, all glazed with a syrup of the reserved berry juices and a touch of balsamic vinegar. Except for the tart shell, there is no baking involved. So it's very easy to put together for a family party, picnic, or the upcoming fourth of July holiday. Celebrate summer with strawberries.

When picking or shopping for strawberries, look for firm, unblemished fruit with their green caps intact. The deeper color red, the riper and more flavorful. Berries that have green or yellow spots are unripe and may taste sour. To store, remove any bad berries because as the saying goes: one bad apple spoils the whole bunch. Then place unwashed berries on paper towels, layer in a container, and refrigerate for up to 3 days. When ready to use, simply trim and wash.

Strawberry Mascarpone Tart

Recipe adapted from Simply Recipes.

2 pounds strawberries
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 tablespoons lemon juice
12 ounces mascarpone cheese
1/3 cup confectioners sugar
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Remove stems, hull, and halve or quarter strawberries depending on size. In a large bowl, combine strawberries, granulated sugar, lemon zest, and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Place in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes to macerate.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, mascarpone, vanilla extract, and confectioners sugar. Mix thoroughly until silky smooth. Refrigerate until ready to use.

To make the glaze, strain the macerated strawberries over a small saucepan. Add balsamic vinegar and heat over medium-high until liquid is reduced by more than half. It should foam and thicken to a syrup. Let cool to room temperature.

Spread chilled mascarpone mixture in tart shell. Arrange strawberries on top. Brush with glaze. Serve immediately. Yield: 8 slices.

Tart Shell

Tip: A small portion of whole-wheat pastry flour in the dough makes the tart shell extra crispy. If not at hand, use all-purpose flour.

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk
3 to 4 tablespoons ice water

In a large bowl, combine flours, sugar, and salt. Mix together with a whisk to aerate

Add butter and work with a pastry blender until mixture resembles course meal.

In a small bowl, beat together egg yolk and 3 tablespoons ice water. Drizzle liquid mixture into dry ingredients. Mix until dough comes together. If too dry, 1 tablespoon ice water can be added.

Form the dough into a flat disc and wrap in plastic. Chill for at least 1 hour before rolling.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Roll out tart dough between two pieces of plastic wrap to fit a 10-inch fluted tart pan. Carefully lay dough over pan. Press dough up into the sides. Remove excess dough by running rolling pin over pan. Fill any holes or cracks with excess dough.

Chill shell for 10 minutes. Using a fork, prick the bottom of the pan all over. Line the inside of the pan with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake for 10 minutes. Then carefully remove pie weights with foil. Continue to bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely.

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Gluten-Free Chocolate Financiers

June 25, 2009

chocolate financiers

The combination of chocolate and almonds is one one of my favorite things. The dessert that incorporates these two ingredients beautifully is the French tea cookie, the financier. Traditionally made in small rectangular molds so that they resemble gold bars, these little cookies were eaten by on-the-go people who worked in the financial district in France. Not limited to French financiers any longer, these cookies can be easily made and enjoyed anywhere by anyone. They make a fine finish to any meal, go well with afternoon tea, or are just as nice with a mid-morning coffee break.

The really special thing about this recipe is that it uses no flour at all. It's completely free of gluten. Since I had my aunt, who was recently diagnosed with celiac disease, visit last week, I knew I had to make these for her. To make them extra nutty, I browned the butter. It's a traditional step that should not be skipped in making flavorful financiers. Crisp on the outside and soft and crumbly on the inside, these treats turned out to be very enjoyable, even for the regular-diet folks.

Gluten-Free Chocolate Financiers

This recipe is adapted from Smitten Kitchen, who adapted it from Gluten-Free Girl, who got it from David Lebovitz. I used almond meal/flour. If not available, grind slivered almonds in a food processor and measure 1 cup.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup almond meal/flour
4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup confectioners sugar
2 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon almond extract

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Butter a cupcake tin.

In a small saucepan, melt the butter on low heat until it starts to turn brown.

In a medium bowl, combine the almond meal, cocoa powder, salt, and confectioners sugar. Stir in the egg whites until incorporated. Then gradually stir in the brown butter and almond extract until incorporated.

Divide the batter evenly in the cupcake tin using a mini releasable ice cream scoop or two spoons. Fill each about 1/2 full. Bake until set, about 10 minutes. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely. Yield: 12 financiers.

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Radishes with Blue Cheese and Butter Spread

June 23, 2009

radishes and blue cheese

I love the crunch of radishes. It's a sound that resonates with all the radish-lovers in my family especially my mother, the biggest lover of the crunchy root vegetable. I learned to love radishes form her. At first I didn't appreciate their mild, earthy flavor, but then I came to love them more for their watery crunch. Then I discovered they could also be spicy and peppery. I have been an aficionado for many years now. Every spring I look for the best and brightest ones.

Radishes are best enjoyed raw, sliced thinly, and served alongside cold meats and charcuterie. From my mom I learned to eat my radishes on a bed of blue cheese and butter spread on crusty bread. With her in mind, I created this spread/dip that includes chopped chives for a bit of onion flavor. The dip works great with crudités as well. Here I serve the dip with a selection of crackers and of course the radishes.

radishes

In my search at the Greenmarket a few weeks ago, I found the most colorful varieties: Purple Plum, Pink Beauty, Ping Pong, Cherry Belle, and French Breakfast. I had to stop myself from buying a bunch of each, but I ended up choosing the bright Purple Plum. It's a variety that supposedly stays fresh longer and is a bit spicier than the regular Cherry Belle radishes, which is the common variety found in markets.

When shopping for radishes, look for firm roots and bright, unwilted greens. Stay away form radishes that look old as they can be pithy. Once home from the market, trim the greens and roots, and scrub them clean. Store the radishes in a tub of water, which will help them stay crisp. This is a tip I learned from my uncle. Change the soaking liquid every other day and the radishes should keep for up to one week.

Blue Cheese and Butter Spread

6 ounces blue cheese, room temperature
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
3 tablespoons chopped chives

In a small bowl, combine cheese and butter. Mash with a fork until it is thoroughly combined. Add chives and mix until incorporated. Serve with thinly sliced radishes. Yield: 1 cup.

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Balsamic-Marinated Lamb Chops

June 18, 2009

lamb chops

Father's Day, a holiday synonymous with grilling, is just around the corner. The image that comes to my mind is my dad having complete mastery over the grill with his grilling tools in hand. I'm sure this year there will be plenty of fathers wearing #1 Dad aprons standing by the grill ready to barbecue a number of different meats, hamburgers, and hot dogs. But how about taking over the reigns for dad this time around? Just tell him to relax and enjoy a beer while you grill up an impressive meal.

Lamb chops are perfect for grilling since the cut of meat is best prepared when seared on high heat. In this recipe, the lamb is marinated overnight in balsamic vinegar to give it that beautiful black crust once cooked. The vinegar also gives it a wonderful caramelized flavor. This recipe also works well for other meats too. And finally make sure to heat up the grill (or the pan) until it's sizzling hot. That's the key to perfectly seared meat. Go and fire up your grills for dad's day.

Balsamic-Marinated Lamb Chops

12 lamb rib chops, trimmed of excess fat
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon ground dried rosemary
4 garlic cloves, minced
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
olive oil

To a large resealable plastic bag, add the lamb chops, vinegar, rosemary, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Seal, place on a plate to capture any leaks, and refrigerate overnight for best results.

When ready to cook, remove the chops from the bag, scraping off any garlic. Discard the marinade.

Brush a very hot barbecue grill or grill pan with a paper towel moistened with olive oil. Sear the lamb for 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on desired doneness.

Alternatively, to a very hot skillet, add a few tablespoons olive oil. Sear the lamb 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on desired doneness.

Let the lamb chops rest for at least 5 minutes covered with aluminum foil before serving. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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Beet Green Ravioli with Brown Butter and Crispy Sage

June 16, 2009

beet green ravioli

I love ravioli and all filled pastas. They have garnered a special place in my stomach. While I was studying abroad in London during college, all I ate for dinner was ravioli from the refrigerated section in Sainsbury's. I know it's not exactly gourmet, but it was the quickest meal I could make in between my studies and travels. I prefer simple sauces instead of drowning my ravioli in tomato-based sauces. So I would serve them with either green or red pesto or sometimes butter. Along with a side salad, it was the perfect meal. But since then, I've moved onto making my own pasta, a truly rewarding experience.

Having a flavorful filling is key for ravioli. Pretty much any green leafy vegetable sautéed in garlic and oil and mixed with cheese would make a great filling. I love all greens but have never had beet greens. With three bunches of beets from my trip to the Greenmarket, I decided I should at least utilize the greens to make a unique meal. I wasn't sure what to make at first, so I posed the question to twitter and Amy from Cooking with Amy gave me the great idea to make ravioli with browned butter.

You might look at this recipe and feel daunted, but don't. Making fresh pasta is not as hard as it looks. It just takes a bit of time and patience. Once you get the hang of it, the ravioli will start to look better with each and everyone made. A very informative video on fresh pasta making is on Chow.com featuring Laura Schenone, author of The Lost Ravioli Recipes of Hoboken.

Beet Green Ravioli

Adapted from the L.A. Times.

For the pasta dough:
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 large eggs
1 large egg yolk

For the filling:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 garlic clove, grated
1 bunch beet greens, washed and trimmed of stems
1 15-ounce container whole milk ricotta
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg white

For the sauce:
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
handful sage leaves

To make the dough, combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Create a well in the center and add the eggs and egg yolk. Using a fork, beat the eggs while mixing in the flour a little at a time. Once the dough has come together, if it is too dry and crumbly, a little water can be added.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Form into a ball and knead until the dough takes on a smooth surface, about 10 minutes.

Form the dough into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Let it rest for about 20 to 30 minutes at room temperature.

To make the filling, heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Add garlic; sauté for 1 minute. Add beet greens and sauté until wilted, about 5 to 10 minutes.

Once slightly cooled, add the beet greens to a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Turn out into a medium bowl. Add ricotta and Parmesan; season with salt and pepper. Add egg white and stir to combine.

To make the pasta, cut the disk into about 6 to 8 pieces. Work with only one piece at a time and keep the remaining pieces wrapped in plastic wrap. Form the piece into a flat disk, lightly flour, and feed it into the machine starting with the largest setting. Fold the dough in half and roll it through again. Now start moving onto the next setting and so on until the next-to-last setting is reached. The pasta should be silky smooth and less than 1/16-inch in thickness.

Lay the long sheet of pasta on a lightly floured work surface. Fold it in half and cut off the rounded ends. Cut the sheet in half at the fold over. One piece will be the bottom of the ravioli and the other the top.

Using a teaspoon, drop balls of filling about 1 inch apart onto one of the pasta sheets. Brush around the filling with a bit of water. Cover with the other pasta sheet, firmly pressing around each ball of filling to seal the dough while removing as much air as possible. Using a decorative pastry cutter or a sharp knife, cut the pasta into ravioli and place onto a lightly floured tray or towel. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Scraps of dough can also be reformed and rerolled on the machine.

Bring a large pot of liberally salted water to a rapid boil. Add the ravioli in small batches and cook until al dente, about 5 minutes. Stir now and then to prevent sticking.

To make the sauce, melt butter in a small saucepan on low heat. Add sage leaves and cook until butter starts to turn brown. In large bowl, toss the ravioli with the sauce and serve immediately. Yield: 8 to 10 servings.

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Roasted Beet Salad with Goat Cheese and Walnuts

June 15, 2009

beet salad

There are many more ways to enjoy beets than canned or pickled or as grandma's borscht. One of my favorite ways to enjoy them is roasted and served cold alongside a green salad. Lately restaurants have made the beet salad trendy by serving it as an in-season menu specialty. But it's just as easy to make this healthy dish at home while saving some money in the process. It's all just a matter of some planning ahead to roast the beets. After that, putting the salad together takes only minutes.

On my latest trip to the Union Square Greenmarket last week I was hoping to find the perfect beets. Many sellers had them, but I was looking for the extra-special kind. What I came to find was a wall of the most beautiful varieties: red, white, and Chioggga, which are the bright red ones that once cut crosswise reveals a bulls-eye. So I bought a bunch of each and used them as inspiration for building this colorful dish.

beets

When buying beets, look for firm, smooth, and unblemished roots. Also look for bright greens that are not wilted. Once home, the beet greens should be used immediately. They are great sautéed with garlic and oil. Trim the beet roots leaving a bit of the stem intact. The raw beets can be stored in the refrigerator for a week or so. When ready to use, wash and scrub. Peel the skins once they have been cooked. Just don't forget to wear gloves.

In this simple salad, the beets are the main attraction. First they are slowly roasted to concentrate their flavors and then chilled. The green base is made from slightly bitter frisée paired with peppery baby arugula. Finally the salad is topped with tangy goat cheese, crunchy walnuts, and a tart lemon vinaigrette. The earthy flavor of the beets and the lively flavors of the salad come together to form a fresh meal that's evocative of spring.

Roasted Beet Salad with Goat Cheese and Walnuts

8 ounces frisée, torn into pieces
4 ounces baby arugula
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
6 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
1/3 cup chopped walnuts

Wash salad greens thoroughly and spin dry.

In large bowl make the vinaigrette by whisking together the oil, lemon zest and juice, salt, and pepper. Add the salad greens and toss to coat.

To serve, top each plate with dressed salad greens, a bit of crumbled goat cheese, chopped walnuts, and halved or quartered roasted beets. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Roasted Beets

Tip: Roast the beets at least a day before you intend to serve this dish and the salad preparation is made that much easier.

8 medium beets in different colors
olive oil
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Remove stems, wash, scrub, and dry beets thoroughly.

Place beets on a sheet of aluminum foil. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Fold over the foil and crimp the edges very tightly, creating an envelope. Make sure to separate the different colors of beets in their own packets to prevent the colors from mixing.

Place the packets on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake beets until tender when pierced with a knife, about 45 to 55 minutes depending on their size.

Allow beets to cool a bit before handling. While wearing gloves, tear open the packets and rub each beet with a paper towel to remove its skin.

Refrigerate beets until ready to use. The roasted beets last for about 1 week in the refrigerator.

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Panna Cotta with Roast and Pickled Rhubarb

June 9, 2009

pannacotta

Summer is fast approaching and more and more fruits and vegetables are coming in season. One of my favorite spring/summer crossover vegetables is rhubarb. I love it's tart flavor and bright pink color. It complements a variety of sweet and savory dishes. But it's most commonly known as pie fruit and is more often paired with strawberries than with any other fruit or vegetable. But I like it when it plays the leading role in a dish and not the supporting one.

In the summer on those especially hot days all I crave are cooling desserts that can be simply made ahead of time and chilled. One of my favorite chilled desserts is the Italian panna cotta, which is basically jellied cream. In this dessert the panna cotta serves as a perfect base for rhubarb, prepared in two different ways. One batch is roasted with sugar and then infused with cinnamon and sparkling wine. Another batch is pickled in a honey-sweet brine with a bit of grenadine for color and star anise for a touch of spice. The sweet, tart, savory, and crisp intermingle as the two rhubarbs meet on the plate.

Many recipes for rhubarb call for peeling the vegetable before cooking. I leave the rhubarb as is and only trim about an inch from either end. If I see brown spots, I use a vegetable peeler to remove them. The color is in the outermost skin, so why have it go to waste?

Panna Cotta

2 cups heavy cream
1/3 cup granulated sugar
2 vanilla beans
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk
1 packet powdered gelatin

Chill six 6-ounce custard cups.

In a small saucepan, bring heavy cream and sugar to a simmer. Split vanilla beans lengthwise and scrape, removing seeds; add to cream. Discard beans or use for another purpose.

Meanwhile, sprinkle gelatin over 2 tablespoons milk in a medium bowl.

Once sugar is dissolved and bubbles begin to form on the surface of the heavy cream, add it to the bowl of gelatin, whisking vigorously until gelatin has dissolved. Add remaining 1/3 cup cold milk and whisk until slightly cooled.

Evenly divide the mixture among the chilled custard cups. Chill for at least 2 hours or overnight.

When ready to serve, run a thin knife along the cream and dip and hold custard cup in simmering water for 15 seconds. Turn out into a small bowl. Yield: 6 servings.

Roast Rhubarb

Based on Jamie Oliver's recipe from his book Happy Days.

1 pound rhubarb, trimmed of ends and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 cup sparkling wine
1 2-inch cinnamon stick

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

In a baking casserole, combine rhubarb and sugar. Bake, stirring occasionally, until rhubarb is lightly browned and tender but still holds its shape, about 20 minutes.

Alternatively, in a skillet on medium-high heat, cook rhubarb with sugar until it is light brown and tender but still holds its shape, about 10 minutes.

In a small saucepan, warm sparkling wine with cinnamon stick. Pour over rhubarb. Once cooled, chill in the refrigerator. Yield: 4 cups.

Pickled Rhubarb

Based on Johnny Iuzzini's recipe from his first book Dessert Fourplay.

Note: I prefer homemade grenadine to the store-bought kind, which is laden with artificial flavor and coloring. To make your own, bring 2 cups of pomegranate juice to a boil and then lower to a simmer. Once reduced by half, add 1 cup granulated sugar and heat until dissolved. Once cooled, store in a jar in the refrigerator. Yield: 1 cup.

1 pound rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1-1/2-inch-by-1/4-inch matchsticks
1/2 cup sherry vinegar
1/2 cup rice vinegar
1 cup honey
3 tablespoons grenadine
1 tablespoon salt
2 star anise

Place rhubarb in a large heatproof container or 1-quart jar.

In a small saucepan, combine remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Let cool slightly. Pour over rhubarb and cover with plastic wrap or jar lid. Once cooled, chill in the refrigerator. Yield: 4 cups.

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Vichyssoise

June 1, 2009

Vichyssoise

As the weather warms toward summer days, I look forward to enjoying cool and refreshing soups. One of my favorite cold soups is Vichyssoise with its combination of potatoes and leeks that is simply delicious. The great thing about this soup is that you can enjoy it either hot or cold or even just warm.

The soup's French name makes it sound much more fussy than it really is. But the soup is not really French in origin. It was invented in the 1920s by a Frenchman at the Ritz in New York City. The preparation is as simple as sautéing leeks and boiling potatoes. Once it's cooked, simply purée. I love to serve a soup like this in small cups as an appetizer. It's the perfect start to a summertime dinner party.

A tip on handling leeks: The best way to clean and prepare leeks for a recipe that calls for sautéing them is as follows. First remove the tough dark green part, then cut the leek lengthwise, and finally cut the leek into ribbons crosswise. Wash in many changes of water and drain in a colander. This Test Kitchen video on Gourmet.com explains the method perfectly.

Vichyssoise

2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 shallots, finely chopped
3 leeks, white and light-green parts, thinly sliced
1 pound potatoes (about 2 medium), peeled and diced
4 cups chicken stock
1 bay leaf
1 cup heavy cream
coarse sea salt
freshly ground white pepper
chives, for garnish

Heat butter and oil in a large pot over medium-low heat. Add shallots and leeks. Cook until translucent and soft but not brown, about 10 minutes. Add potatoes, chicken stock, and bay leaf; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes.

Using a blender, purée the soup in batches until silky smooth. Return the soup to the pot and warm. Stir in cream and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot or cold. Garnish with chopped chives. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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