Fresh Garden Pea Soup

Nothing compares to the sweet, earthy, and verdant flavor of fresh peas, especially when they are picked right from the garden. This year, for the first time, I proudly grew peas. It was so spectacular to watch the plants grow, attach themselves to the trellis, and sprout snapdragon-like flowers that turned into pods bursting with peas. Rather than eating peas as a sometimes boring side dish, I love peas in soup. In the fall and winter I enjoy making split pea soup, but in the summer making fresh pea soup is a rite of the season.

The bright green color of this luscious soup comes from cooking the peas just until tender but not brown. The flavor base is rounded out with slowly sautéed shallots and leeks. Just before puréeing fresh mint is added, bringing the verdant flavor to an apex. Add a touch of cream to lighten the color and for a bit of richness. This soup is truly the flavor of summer in one dish.



Growing peas is very easy. Choosing a sunny spot in the garden with well-draining soil is key. Sow the peas, water well, and watch them grow. For this recipe, shell peas and sugar snap peas work well. Sugar snap peas can be eaten whole, cooked, or even raw. I love to snap one off from the bush and eat it right then. That's a great way to check the tenderness of the peas inside too. Don't let the peas get too old because they will be tough. When shopping for peas look for tender ones by testing them with a bite. If the individual pea inside the pod is too old, the two halves inside, which make up split peas, will start to force the thin peel apart.

Fresh Garden Pea Soup

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 medium leek, white and light-green parts, thinly sliced
4 cups chicken stock
3 cups shelled peas
3 mint leaves
1/2 cup heavy cream
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
chives, for garnish

Heat butter and oil in a large pot over medium-low heat. Add shallots and leek. Cook until translucent and soft but not brown, about 10 minutes. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add peas and cook until tender but still green, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add mint.

Using a blender, purée the soup in batches until silky smooth. Push through a fine-mesh sieve over a pot. Return to heat and warm. Stir in cream and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot or cold. Garnish with chopped chives. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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Park Avenue Summer

Honoring the four seasons, Park Avenue goes beyond the usual restaurant's typical menu update, it completely changes its menus, interiors, and graphic design down to the last detail. The concept of the restaurant is that with seasonal change comes reinvention and reinterpretation. It's a concept that works through and through in this establishment and is best represented by the menu created by chef Craig Koketsu. My recent visit just last week was my first, but from the moment I set foot inside, its charm and ambiance made me feel very much at ease. The overall look of the restaurant every season is simple and modern with telltale signs that signify the current season, in this case the bright yellow summer.

Designed by the same firm, AvroKo, that designed the hip Double Crown in the Bowery, Park Avenue is a well-thought-out space. Making room for each season is a difficult undertaking, but the interior has been designed in such a way as to make rotation four times a year an easy task. Walls are lined with interchangeable panels, seat backs can be easily updated too, and architectural trim and lighting is changed to create the appropriate seasonal mood. For this summer, the walls are bright lacquered yellow mounted with ceramic casts of tortoise shells. The theme is loosely based on Captain James Cook's travel and exploration. Some walls are trimmed in white-washed reclaimed wood. Lighting is airy and simple. The only colors that are consistent throughout the year are the warm wood tones of the tables and chairs. The minutiae are not forgotten. Menus feature details from maps by Captain Cook. All these things but together create a very sleek and thoughtful look that's symbolic of the current season without being overtly so.

We were at the restaurant to partake of Restaurant Week, which gave us an opportunity to have a three-course meal at a great price of $24. A special price for wine was also offered as part of Restaurant Week so that we were able to order $6 glasses of wine. I ordered a wine from that menu, but it ended up not being available. So I was served a 2005 Robin K. Cabernet from Sonoma, CA that was slightly more tannic than I expected but had nice dark fruit notes, making an excellent pairing for my main dish to come. My friend, Maritza, had a 2007 Santa Julia Chardonnay from Chile, which turned out to be crisp and fruity. It made a nice accompaniment to her appetizer of salmon tartare with tomatoes and basil, a very refreshing dish that captured the essence of summer. I ordered the Caprese ravioli with yellow tomato coulis, which is basically a Caprese salad turned outside in. The ravioli are stuffed with tomatoes and mozzarella and served atop a flavorful coulis. The waitress had recommended these two dishes with a thorough knowledge about them. Her opinions turned out to be very trustworthy as these appetizers whetted our appetites perfectly.

It was without a doubt that when I saw Dr. Pepper baby back ribs with peach slaw on the menu, I was going to order it. Dr. Pepper, a unique soft drink for sure, was one of my favorites growing up. The barbecue sauce on these ribs was sweet, but it was hard to get a taste of Dr. Pepper. The ribs could have been a bit more tender as I prefer the meat falling off the bone. Otherwise I was very surprised by the peach slaw, a combination of unripe peaches, cabbage, and pickled red onions. The slaw was slightly sweet and tart making it a perfect match for the ribs. With all this and my glass of wine, I was completely satisfied and getting very full at this point. Maritza lovingly enjoyed the crispy roasted chicken prepared under a brick served with peach salad. The chicken was unbelievably moist and tender with crackling skin. I must say that ordering chicken at a restaurant is usually a toss up and I was not sure if this was going to be a good choice, but the chicken turned out to be a successful dish. I always say ordering chicken is a good way to gauge the merits of the chef or cook, but there is a fifty-fifty chance of success or failure.

Moving onto dessert was almost impossible as we were both overindulged to the brim, but dessert is a requirement in a seasonally focused restaurant. My friend thoroughly enjoyed the banana parfait with banana butterscotch purée and chocolate crumbs, mixing it all together to create a cohesive whole where not one crumb was left dry. The ratio of crumbs made the dessert unbalanced, but by mixing it together, she achieved a very well distributed concoction. The couple at the table next to ours commented that it looked to be a better choice of dessert than mine. But I had to disagree. My peach panna cotta with basil foam was exceptional. Panna cotta, one of my favorite desserts, is one of those dishes that I find incredibly cooling especially on a hot summer day. The peach component of this dessert was a gelatin formed on top of the panna cotta, making it interesting to break into. I was skeptical about the basil foam, but it along with a bit of each element on the spoon made the combination truly ethereal. The only part of the dessert that failed for me were the lemon cake sticks, which were grainy and ultimately weighed down the dessert.

Neither of us could remember a last time we felt so sated, delighted, and full after a meal. Park Avenue Summer is truly a delightful restaurant right from the start. Its many different spaces from large to more intimate, friendly and knowledgeable staff, and wonderful menu stand out in the crowd of many seasonal restaurants. If I could choose only one seasonally focused restaurant to go back to again and again it would be this one. I am ready and preparing to explore the next season.

Park Avenue
100 East 63rd Street, at Park Avenue
New York, NY 10021
212-644-1900
Open daily for lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; for dinner Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 p.m., and Sunday 5:30 to 9 p.m.; and for brunch, Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Prices range from $28 to $39.

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Sour Cherry Pie

Deep red, bright red, or blotchy white, all cherries, no matter the color, are among my favorite fruits. Eating them fresh is a pleasure, but cooking with them is even better. Sour cherries, tart in taste but full in flavor, are particularly the best to use in cooking or baking. Europeans love cherries in soups or pastries, as side dishes, or made into syrups and liqueurs. Sour cherries come in two varieties, the dark morello, which is more common in Europe, and the bright amarelle, which is the predominant variety here in the States. I have looked for sour cherries for years, but have never been able to find them until I visited the Union Square Greenmarket for the first time some years ago. This past week I picked up four quarts and made jars and jars of brandied cherries, but also put some aside to make this pie.



It was hard and messy work creating a sour cherry lattice pie, but eating it slightly warm with a scoop of melting vanilla ice cream was beyond worth it. Some tips on preparing cherries for pie-making: When you get your cherries home, wash them well and remove their stems. Lay them out onto trays lined with paper towels. Once they are dry, pit them using a cherry pitter or, as I did, utilize a drinking straw, which works just as well as one of those super pitters. You and your kitchen will be covered in red spots, so make sure to wear an apron or clothing you don't care too much about.



When shopping for cherries, look for firm and unblemished fruit with their stems attached. Unfortunately this year lots of rain on the East Coast has made for some soft cherries. When using cherries purchased from the farmers' stand, double check the fruit, discarding any ones that are brown and have holes, which may indicate a worm inside. When pitting them, peak inside just to be sure. Since you will be eating the skin, try to buy organic cherries whenever possible. Conventional cherries have loads of pesticides on the surface.

Sour Cherry Pie

Note: Instead of cornstarch, this recipe calls for potato starch, which has a more neutral flavor and thickens the filling without causing cloudiness.

7 cups pitted sour cherries
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup potato starch
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
pie crust, recipe follows
1 tablespoon milk, for wash

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Roll out one disc of pie dough to about 12 inches to fit a 10-inch pie plate. Fit into the pie plate. Roll out the second disc and use a decorative pastry cutter to score 1-inch strips. Refrigerate pie plate and dough strips until ready to use.

In a large bowl, combine cherries, sugar, salt, starch, vanilla extract, and lemon juice and zest. Mix well.

Pour cherry mixture into dough-lined pie plate leaving some of the liquid on the bottom of the bowl. Spread cherries out evenly. Brush the dough strips with milk. Onto the pie, lay half the strips in one direction an inch apart. Fold up every other strip and weave in a new strip. Repeat until all the strips are woven to create the lattice design. Tuck and press the edges together securely. Cut off any overhanging strips. Crimp the edge of the pie using either your thumbs and forefingers or a fork. Place pie plate on a rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil.

Bake pie for 15 minutes, then lower the heat to 375 degrees F. and continue to bake for 1 to 1-1/4 hours. The crust should be golden brown and the filling bubbling. Cool completely before slicing and serving. Yield: 8 slices.

Pie Crust

Note: For the perfect pie crust, the dough should clump when squeezed together. In humid weather 1/4 cup ice water should do, but in normal conditions, a 1/2 cup is needed. Still if it is too dry, add water, or if too moist, add flour.

2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
1/4 to 1/2 cup ice water

Combine flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor. Pulse to aerate instead of sifting.

Add butter and pulse for ten seconds or until mixture resembles course meal.

With the food processor running, stream in water. Process until the dough comes together.

Divide the dough into two parts and wrap in plastic wrap, forming discs. Chill for at least one hour before rolling.

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10 Downing Food & Wine

Yet another restaurant named after its street number and name, but not just any number or name, it's 10 Downing Street. Not the British prime minister's address, but a small street in the West Village, this restaurant's main facade is actually on Sixth Avenue. This turned out to be the biggest obstacle for my friend, Amanda, and I, leading us to hunt for the entrance. We sure were not going to climb in the large window at the corner under the clock. Among the very first for dinner last Friday, we entered through the patio from where a waiter directed us toward the host at the far end of the dining room. The entrance turned out to be just around the corner on 10 Downing Street of course. Unfortunately that side of the restaurant is just a large windowless wall with one single nondescript entrance door. Most vanity addresses tend not to be practical or make sense.

From the outside, the restaurant achieves a bistro feel with expansive hinged windows and doors all trimmed in sharp jet black. A nicely sized patio with umbrellas beckons diners to eat outdoors. On a rather hot and humid day we preferred to dine indoors, the decor of which seemed optimally suited to a West Village eatery. Subtly decorated with dark and mid-tone finishes, creamy walls, contemporary art, portraits, photographs, and outfitted with bentwood chairs, the inside hearkens back to a time where one could imagine dining under a cloud of cigarette smoke while keeping boisterous conversation with Village mainstays about the issues of the day.

As I wondered about the past that could have been, my eyes wandered over the menu of Mediterranean cuisine. Soon our polite waiter offered us a choice of waters but asked if we wanted bread. I don't think I've ever been asked if I wanted bread before but as long as we didn't have to pay for it. We ordered wine opting for the chilled varieities: Amanda had a glass of Pépière Muscadet and I enjoyed a glass of Zweigelt rosé. We ordered from the Restaurant Week menu and the appetizers arrived soon after. The white gazpacho, which Amanda had, was one of the best I have tried. It was full of flavor with notes of cucumbers, almonds, and grapes coming through first as subtle but then distinct. The chicken liver mousse was very smooth and creamy with only the slight tinge of minerality. Accompanied by black grilled bread and a selection of pickles that included ramps and beets, it made for a fine pairing with wine and was ideal for sharing.

For the main course, I ordered the crispy pork belly with creamy corn and tapenade jus. It unfortunately turned out to be anything but crispy. Its bed of sweet corn was nice, but all that mattered to me was the greasily glistening uncooked belly with its gristly and disconcerting texture. Amanda ordered the very tender and flaky haddock à la plancha, on the grill, which was served on a bed of verdant persillade, a parsley sauce, and included orbs of squash. What the fish lacked in seasoning, the sauce made up for in flavor. After debating about the rights, wrongs, and consequences of sending a dish back and Amanda offering me half her fish, I decided to send the flabby belly back. The waiter was polite but pointed out pork belly is indeed fatty, to which my retort was the menu says it should be crispy and insisted to be brought the third option of uovo raviolo instead. Appeasing my displeasure, that dish proved to be very enjoyable. A large raviolo encased a perfectly yolk-drooling soft-poached egg, which was surrounded by salty jamon and tender English peas, dabbed with a bit of truffle butter. It was simple, flavorful, and comforting in its hominess, but would have worked much better as an appetizer. The pork belly, if crisped to perfection, would also have worked better as an appetizer. I just wished the cook would have gotten it right, keeping me from seething jealously over the diners nearby who were enjoying nearly perfect crisped pork belly.

After I had eaten apart from Amanda, a small gap in time elapsed and our desserts eventually followed. Amanda chose the buttermlik panna cotta with vanilla-roasted peaches and I chose the only other dessert option on the Restaurant Week menu, the peanut butter gelato with strawberry marmalade. The panna cotta, a cooked and gelled cream, was very neutral in flavor. It was surrounded by bright roasted peaches that carried a hint of cardamom and was sprinkled with fresh thyme, an unexpected ingredient that made for a nice flavor awakener. I would have gladly preferred it to my peanut butter gelato, a ball of ice cream dropped onto a layer of basically strawberry jam with two batons of toast. Maybe I was supposed to consider it a deconstructed strawberry shortcake, but it truly was an odd combination of components. Though the peanut butter gelato was nice and included bits of nuts, it would have worked better with some sort of chocolate creation. The plain toast was out of place and might have worked entirely better left in the toaster.

After re-energizing over coffee, we would have left sooner if it wasn't for our harried waiter who seemed to be juggling a mass of tables. He simply forgot us until I waived him over. It was Friday night after all and the place was packed, which at times led to hard-to-hear conversations that might have worked better with sign language. Despite the failed dish, the busy waiter, the progressively clamorous sound level, and up-and-down lighting, 10 Downing finds its niche nicely in the West Village. It's worth a visit. But if you happen to order the pork belly, insist that it is fully crisped.

10 Downing Food & Wine
10 Downing Street, at Sixth Avenue
New York, NY 10014
212-255-0300
Open daily for dinner, Sunday through Wednesday 6 p.m. to 12 a.m., Thursday through Saturday 6 p.m. to 1 a.m., and for brunch, Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Prices range from $18 to $31.

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Raspberry Mini Trifles

The bounty from the berry bushes in my backyard has been great this year. I was able to make another quart of red currant jelly just like last year. The raspberry bushes yielded so much fruit that the options for consumption were unlimited. I wanted to make something more special than jam and it was impossible to eat all the berries fresh. I decided upon making a trifle, one of the most elegant and almost bake-free deserts. Instead of one big trifle, I made six individual trifles for a light dessert to end a recent summer gathering. These personal-size trifles are perfect for those who don't like to share dessert and since there are no seconds, they're guilt-free too.

I had never eaten nor ever heard of a trifle until I traveled to England. Once I had a taste of it there, I immediately became a fan. A week wouldn't go by without a need for me to satisfy my craving for the beautifully layered treat. So I ended up becoming a die-hard devotee of store-bought trifles from Marks & Spencer. Sold in little sealed cups, they were the ideal dessert for me who was always on the go. Every time I passed by a store I would be sure to stop in for either a raspberry or strawberry trifle. I was quite the trifle addict.

Since then I haven't been able to find a trifle anywhere to rival the ones I ate in England, that is until I made my own. Most people when they think of trifle picture layers of store-bought pound cake, boxed vanilla pudding, jam, and that faux freezer-section whipped cream. I say you can do much better than that. This recipe features layers of fluffy sponge cake, vanilla custard, freshly ripened raspberries, jam, and real whipped cream. It's my kind of trifle.

If you, like me, have too many raspberries or blackberries on your hands, then I recommend freezing them. To make this trifle I actually froze small batches as the berries ripened. Otherwise I wouldn't have had enough to make the dessert. Simply freeze berries on a tray and once frozen, keep in a resealable bag or deli container. They will at least last for a few months. They are highly enjoyable just popped into the mouth frozen or served with ice cream. If using frozen berries for the trifle, don't defrost, but layer them in the dessert as they are.

Raspberry Mini Trifles

Note: This recipe would also work well for one large trifle. Instead of using a rimmed baking sheet for the sponge cake, divide the batter between two round cake pans and bake for the same amount of time.

for the custard:
1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
5 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 cup confectioners sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

for the sponge cake:
8 large eggs, separated
1/2 cup confectioners sugar
1/2 cup all purpose flour, sifted

for the assembly:
2 cups seedless raspberry jam
2 cups heavy cream
1/4 cup confectioners sugar
3 pints raspberries

To make the custard, combine milk and heavy cream in a saucepan; bring to a boil.

In a medium bowl, beat together the egg yolks, starch, and sugar until light and creamy. To the bowl, slowly pour the hot liquid. Whisk vigorously to prevent curdling.

Return the mixture to the saucepan and warm over low heat. Stir constantly until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon, up to 10 minutes.

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Stir in vanilla. Chill over a bowl of ice.

To make the sponge cake, preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter a rimmed baking sheet, line with parchment paper, and butter again.

In a small bowl, beat together the egg yolks and sugar until light and creamy.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. By hand, fold in the egg yolk mixture and flour a little at a time until just combined. Spread evenly in the baking sheet. Bake until golden brown and springy to the touch, about 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool.

For the assembly, heat raspberry jam over low heat until runny. Add up to 4 tablespoons water if too thick.

In a stand mixer, whip heavy cream with sugar until stiff peaks form.

Cut 12 rounds out of the sponge cake to fit 6 16-ounce mini trifle dishes or large custard cups. Each mini trifle will have two layers of cake.

Fill each dish with a round of cake. Drizzle with about 2 tablespoons of custard. Line with about 1/2 cup raspberries. Spoon and spread about 2 tablespoons of jam. Spread a thin layer of whipped cream. Cake scraps can also be used in filling the dish. Repeat process again, making sure to evenly divide remaining ingredients among dishes. Chill trifles for at least 1 to 2 hours or overnight before serving. Yield: 6 mini trifles.

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Seared Scallops with Corn Salsa and Cilantro Pesto

Sweet, tender, mild, succulent, moist, and juicy. These are some words that describe one of my favorite seafoods, the scallop. I love the shape and design of their shells, which I collect, but I love the mild flavor of their meat even more. Part of the bivalve family of mollusks, these shelled creatures are prized for their tender, white meat. Harvested at sea usually by dredging the ocean floor or by diving, a more ecological method, scallops have their meat removed before arriving in markets. That is why you almost never see them in their shells.

Luckily, I have had the opportunity to see scallops in their natural yet man-made habitat. When I was a teen I worked on a scallop farm out on Long Island Sound as part of a summer aquaculture program. The scallops were housed in lantern nets, suspended directly in the sea between buoys. On reaching the farm, boatmen would lift the nets out of the sea for the students to work on. We moved the baby scallops from their crowded lantern nets into new ones that afforded them the space to grow to full marketable size. While handling them, the scallops, like toy water pistols, would squirt us with briny water. Besides not being allowed to eat the scallops, it was a fun and memorable experience.

This dish pairs sweet scallops with a sweet summer corn salsa. It's a simple, fast, and colorful salsa of corn, onion, bell pepper, and jalapeño pepper combined with cilantro and lime juice for a bit of tartness. For some additional flavor, a cilantro pesto makes a great sauce to serve alongside the scallops. This dish makes a perfect appetizer or first course for a summer dinner party. The best part is that it comes together very quickly, which means there is more time spent with guests than in the kitchen.

When shopping for scallops, look for fresh, dry-packed sea scallops, preferably diver. Wet-packed scallops have been soaked in a solution, which whitens them and increases their weight. They are not good for searing as they emit a lot of soapy liquid. Plus why would you want to buy scallops that are artificially plumped up? For this recipe look for large scallops, that are 10 to 20 count per pound. The smaller the count per pound, the larger the scallop size and vice versa. If you must buy frozen, just one tip, let them defrost in the refrigerator before using. Do not defrost in the microwave.

Seared Scallops

1 pound sea scallops, about 12 large
2 teaspoons olive oil
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Remove the small side muscle from each scallop. Rinse with cold water and pat dry.

Warm oil in a large heavy-bottomed skillet on high heat. Salt and pepper the scallops. Add scallops to very hot pan at least an inch apart from one another. Sear the scallops for 2 minutes per side. The scallops should have a golden crust on each side. Serve immediately. Yield: 4 servings.

Corn Salsa

2 ears sweet corn, sliced from the cob
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 orange bell pepper, chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons lime juice (about 1 lime)
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

In a pot of simmering water, blanch the corn for 2 minutes. Drain immediately. Alternatively, in a heat-proof bowl, cook the corn for 2 minutes in the microwave on high.

In a bowl, combine corn, onion, peppers, cilantro, and lime juice. Season with salt and pepper. Serve warm or cold. Yield: 4 servings.

Cilantro Pesto

1 bunch cilantro, stems removed
1/2 cup pine nuts
1/2 cup olive oil
coarse sea salt

Add cilantro and pine nuts to a food processor and pulse until thoroughly combined. Drizzle in oil and process until smooth. Season with salt. Leftover pesto can be stored in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month or frozen in a resealable plastic bag. Yield: 1 cup.

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Wild Mushroom and Goat Cheese Fagottini

I initially discovered this unusual and unique filled pasta shape not in Italy but in England. You might have read the story about my love for all filled pastas in this post on beet green ravioli. It was in the Sainsbury's supermarket in London where I encountered these dumpling-like little packages. The first time I saw the pyramid shapes in the refrigerated section of the store, I was mesmerized. Since then I've looked for fagottini everywhere but have yet to find them here in the states. So, I decided to replicate the pasta from scratch.

I tried to create a recipe very similar to the pasta I had enjoyed while studying abroad. For me, the flavors of wild mushrooms and goat cheese of the store-brand package could not be beat. For my filling I used the Italian cremini and the Asian shitake mushroooms, but you can use any blend of mushrooms that you like. I happened to use what was available in the market. The more wild the variety, the better the flavor. Both cremini and shitake are now cultivated, so they are not that wild any longer. But their earthy flavors and musty smells still engender images of the dark forest.

Also included in the filling is the famous cheese of Rome, Pecorino Romano. Made of sheep's milk, its sharp and salty flavor nicely complements many boldly flavored pasta dishes. You will commonly find it grated over pasta all'amatriciana, which has guanciale (salt-cured pig's jowl) as its featured ingredient. Here the cheese works harmoniously with the goat cheese in the filling and, along with a drizzle of olive oil, becomes the simple finishing topping.

Wild Mushroom and Goat Cheese Fagottini

For the pasta dough:
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 large egg yolk

For the filling:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
8 ounces cremini mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and sliced
8 ounces shitake mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and sliced
1 8-ounce log goat cheese
1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg white

To make the dough, combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Create a well in the center and add the eggs and egg yolk. Using a fork, beat the eggs while mixing in the flour a little at a time. Once the dough has come together, if it is too dry and crumbly, a little water can be added.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Form into a ball and knead until the dough takes on a smooth surface, about 10 minutes.

Form the dough into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Let it rest for about 20 to 30 minutes at room temperature.

To make the filling, heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and shallot; cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add thyme and mushrooms. Cook, stirring constantly, until all moisture is lost, about 5 to 10 minutes.

Once slightly cooled, add the mushrooms to a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Turn out into a medium bowl. Add goat cheese and Pecorino; season with salt and pepper. Add egg white and stir to combine.

To make the pasta, cut the disk into about 4 to 6 pieces. Work with only one piece at a time and keep the remaining pieces wrapped in plastic wrap. Form the piece into a flat disk, lightly flour, and feed it into the machine starting with the largest setting. Fold the dough in half and roll it through again. Now start moving onto the next setting and so on until the next-to-last setting is reached. The pasta should be silky smooth and less than 1/16-inch in thickness.

Lay the long sheet of pasta on a lightly floured work surface. Cut off the rounded ends. Using a decorative pastry cutter or a sharp knife, cut the sheet into small squares of equal size.

Using a teaspoon, drop balls of filling onto each square. Brush around the filling with a bit of water. Take the square in hand and bring all the corners together, firmly pressing the edges to seal the dough while removing as much air as possible. Place onto a lightly floured tray or towel. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Scraps of dough can also be reformed and rerolled on the machine.

Bring a large pot of liberally salted water to a rapid boil. Add the fagottini in small batches and cook until al dente, about 5 minutes. Stir now and then to prevent sticking. Serve drizzled with olive oil and grated Pecorino. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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Summer Corn Chowder

Summertime is all about the backyard barbecue and grilling practically anything, from meats to vegetables and fruit. Grilled corn has always been a summer mainstay at my house. Summer just is not complete without eating tender grilled sweet corn on the cob while sitting outside in lawn chairs and watching the sun go down. For me it's no butter or salt but just corn au naturel. How do you like to eat your corn?

My second favorite way to enjoy corn is in a chowder. There is no better way to utilize leftover grilled corn than in a hearty soup. This Southwestern-style corn chowder combines colorful bell peppers, starchy potatoes, a jalapeño for some kick, and a bit of cream for extra richness. It's a recipe that you will want to come back to time and again. You might even find yourself grilling corn just to make the chowder. Enjoy the golden vegetable while it's in season.

With so many different ways to grill corn, here is what I think is the easiest method. First start with very fresh corn. To prepare the corn for grilling, soak the ears, with husks on, in cold water for about an hour. Then wrap them in aluminum foil. Grill the corn on low heat for 30 minutes, rotating the parcels now and then to make sure all sides are grilled. You will have perfectly grilled corn that is tender, moist, and concentrated in its sweetness.

Summer Corn Chowder

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 pound potatoes (about 2 medium), peeled and diced
3 cups chicken stock
4 ears grilled sweet corn, sliced from the cob
1 cup heavy cream
bacon, for garnish

Heat oil in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic; cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add peppers and cook for a few minutes more. Season with salt and pepper. Add thyme, potatoes, and chicken stock; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add corn and cream. Return to a simmer for a few minutes more. Check for seasoning. Garnish with bacon. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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Summer Cocktails

Summer is in full swing and with the weather reaching higher temperatures, there's more reason than ever to cool down with a chilled beverage. For me summer is incomplete without enjoying a great cocktail at an outdoor party. With the fourth of July just days away, what better way to celebrate than with a refreshing drink in hand? Grab one of these three and join the revelry.

I've updated my favorite drink, the gimlet, by making it with freshly squeezed lime juice and a touch of syrup for sweetness. For a fizzy drink, I came up with the Ruby Sparkler, which combines, vodka, ruby red grapefruit juice, and grenadine for a bit of pomegranate sweetness and color. And the Citrus Breeze is my combination of the most refreshing flavors, rum, mint, and a blend of three different freshly squeezed citrus fruits. There's a drink here for everyone to enjoy.

I enjoy making my own syrups. It's great to have a few different ones on hand. You never know when you might need to mix a drink for friends or family that stop by unannounced.

To make your own simple syrup, bring 1 cup of water to a boil and then lower to a simmer. Add 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar and heat until dissolved and thick syrup forms. Once cooled, store the syrup in a jar in the refrigerator. Yield: 1 cup.

To make your own grenadine, bring 2 cups of pomegranate juice to a boil and then lower to a simmer. Once reduced by half, add 1 cup granulated sugar and heat until dissolved. Once cooled, store the syrup in a jar in the refrigerator. Yield: 1 cup.

Modern Gimlet

2 ounces gin
1 ounce lime juice
1/2 ounce simple syrup
lime or lemon twist, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine gin, lime juice, simple syrup, and a few ice cubes. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with lime or lemon twist. Yield: 1 drink.

Ruby Sparkler

1 ounce vodka
1 ounce ruby red grapefruit juice
1/2 ounce grenadine
seltzer
raspberries, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine, vodka, grapefruit juice, grenadine, and a few ice cubes. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled wine flute. Top with seltzer and garnish with raspberries. Yield: 1 drink.

Citrus Breeze

2 lemon wedges
6 mint leaves
1 ounce golden rum
1 ounce golden grapefruit juice
1 ounce orange juice
1/4 ounce simple syrup
mint sprig, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, muddle together lemon wedges and mint leaves. Add rum, grapefruit juice, orange juice, simple syrup, and a few ice cubes. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled old-fashioned glass with ice. Garnish with mint sprig. Yield: 1 drink.

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