Gazpacho

Gazpacho, what a perfect name for a chilled soup. Ever since hearing of the exotic "gazpacho," I have been intrigued and perplexed by its very foreign name. I came to learn that the soup's roots lie in Andalusia in the southern region of Spain. Gazpacho originated as a cold soup of stale bread, garlic, oil, and vinegar. Once tomatoes were brought from the New World and added to the traditional recipe, the summertime soup became even more refreshing. Over the years the soup has transformed, sometimes omitting bread, and in some tomato-less variations including almonds, cucumbers, and grapes. When I tried gazpacho for the first time, I realized what I had been missing and what I had misconstrued as foreignness was just my lack of knowing how incredibly simple it is to make.

With no cooking involved, all that is needed are fresh vegetables, a good sharp knife, and a blender. I've attempted to make gazpacho before but haven't always been successful with achieving the right vegetable combination or the texture. It's entirely about having that just-so touch witth the blender. Blend too little, the soup will be too grainy and blend too much, it will be watery. One way to get really good texture is to reserve some of the chopped vegetables to add back into the puréed soup. This will create a chunky version, which is the kind I prefer. Some recipes call for pushing the soup through a sieve. Others recommend a food mill, which will achieve a really good texture. It's really personal preference that dictates whichever textural method is used.

I've taken for inspiration a recipe from my friend Danielle's mom. Hers is one of the best gazpacho's I've tasted. Tomatoes and garlic are key in this recipe, but the addition of cucumber, celery, and bell pepper really add extra fresh vegetal flavor. I particularly like this combination of fresh vegetables, a few of which I was able to get directly from my garden. Lemon juice or vinegar can be used to add the extra tang that is so necessary in the flavor profile of this soup. Here I use red-wine vinegar, which does the trick perfectly. And a bit of sweet and hot Spanish or Hungarian paprika adds the finishing touch.

Gazpacho

1 pound tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 English cucumber, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 medium celery stalk, chopped
1/4 red bell pepper, chopped
1/2 small red onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
1/2 tablespoon coarse sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/8 teaspoon hot paprika
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup water
1/2 cup chopped parsley

In a blender, combine half the tomatoes, half the cucumbers, half the onions, celery, bell pepper, garlic, salt, pepper, and both sweet and hot paprika. Purée until almost smooth.

Pour mixture into a bowl. Stir in vinegar, olive oil, and water. Add parsley and the remaining chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions. Refrigerate for 1 hour before serving. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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Heirloom Tomato Salad

Not your average rubberized, hybridized grocery store tomatoes, these tomatoes are funky shaped, many colored, and very flavorful. Heirloom tomatoes rule the farmers' markets this time of year. You can find them in all sizes, from tiny cherry sizes to melon sizes. I could not resist buying a whole bunch this last week at the Union Square Greenmarket. I must say that they are expensive, especially this year because of the blight, but they are definitely worth buying. What sets heirloom tomato varieties apart from their test-tube produced, cookie-cutter brethren is that each heirloom tomato is unique, not just in appearance, but also in texture and flavor. You will find some heirloom varieties to be exceptionally sweet whereas others might be slightly salty or briny. Try a few different ones and you will find the kind that you like.

What really makes heirloom tomato varieties truly special is that their lineage can be traced back many decades. These tomatoes have a heritage not unlike our own ancestral histories. Most varieties trace their roots in the United States while others, some of which are among the most popular black varieties, can be found in the far reaches of Eastern Europe and Russia. Over the years heirloom tomatoes have been cultivated from seed handed down from generation to generation, passed from farmer to farmer and between father and son. Collecting seeds from the best of the bunch has made each heirloom variety highly unique but still characteristic of the variety. Genetic engineering has never been involved and therefore heirloom tomatoes have biodiversity.



When buying tomatoes for this recipe, look for ones that are firm and free of blemishes and bruises. When choosing tomatoes at the market make sure to handle them carefully as some may be overripe and bruise easily. It's best to stay away from them since they are very likely to be mealy in texture. Some heirloom varieties are thick skinned, hard, and woody. These kinds may not work well for this salad. The Black Krim, Brandywine, Big Rainbow, Lillian's Yellow, and Green Zebra are wonderful heirloom varieties to use in this salad. They are juicy and have smaller seed pockets. If you are not sure about the varieties, ask the farmer for help in choosing the tomatoes you want.

Heirloom Tomato Salad

2 pounds heirloom tomatoes of various kinds
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
extra-virgin olive oil
red-wine vinegar
handful basil leaves

Core tomatoes and cut 1/4-inch thick slices.

On a large platter, lay tomato slices overlapping. Season each slice with salt and pepper. Drizzle with about 3 to 4 tablespoons of olive oil and of vinegar.

Gather basil leaves together and roll into a cigar shape. Slice crosswise into very thin ribbons. Sprinkle over tomatoes. Serve salad immediately. Yield: 4 servings.

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Moussaka

"It's all Greek to me" were practically the words that came out of my mouth when I first saw this dish listed on a restaurant menu. I didn't know what I was getting in to, but ever since that initial sumptuous taste, I have been in love and obsessed with this classic Greek casserole. Moussaka at first may appear to be a wintry meal, but late summer with its abundance of dark purple eggplants or aubergines is truly the perfect opportunity for making this dish. For me the sight of an eggplant around this time of year automatically equals moussaka. And truth be told, I love it so much that I usually end up eating the entire casserole all by myself.

This love, however, doesn't come so easy. The recipe takes real time and preparation, but it's wholeheartedly worth it. Many components can be made ahead, in particular the meat filling. The day before I plan to make this meal, perhaps for a summer dinner party, I prepare the simple ground-meat filling. Late the next morning of the dinner, I'll fry the eggplant slices for the layers. Then about an hour before guests begin to arrive, I'll make the béchamel sauce, start the assembly, and bake. After the casserole has a chance to cool for easier slicing and serving, it's ready to be enjoyed with a chilled glass of Greek white wine.

To choose eggplants for this recipe, look for the medium to large bulb-shaped globe variety. The eggplant should have a deep purple color, be free of blemishes and discolorations, and be firm and heavy for its size. I prefer the longish globe eggplants, because they work perfectly for layering. The more plump ones work well when cut into discs for a recipe like Eggplant Parmesan. Other eggplant varieties include the slender long Japanese kind, which are great grilled or roasted and the small round Thai variety, which are nice in stews and stir-frys.

Moussaka

One tip: Making béchamel can be a trial in lump making. For me, I know it always is. To create a lump-free white sauce, follow the French technique of making a beurre manié, a flour-butter paste. This paste once dropped into hot milk and whisked vigorously creates the silkiest of sauces, free of pesky lumps.

for the eggplant layers:
3 long globe eggplants
coarse sea salt
olive oil

for the meat filling:
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 pound ground beef
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 15-ounce can crushed tomatoes
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/4 cup chopped fresh oregano
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

for the béchamel sauce:
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
coarse sea salt
freshly ground white pepper
10 ounces Kefalotyri cheese (or pecorino Romano), grated

To make the eggplant layers, cut off ends and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch thick slices. Liberally salt both sides and let stand in a colander set over the sink for at least 30 minutes. Rinse with water and pat dry.

Heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed sauté pan on medium-high. Fry eggplant slices for 3 to 5 minutes per side until golden brown. Drain on paper towels.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

To make the meat filling, heat the butter and oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the beef and cook until brown, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the wine, tomatoes, and cinnamon. Simmer until liquid has reduced, about 30 minutes. Add the parsley and oregano. Season with salt and pepper.

To make the béchamel, knead the butter and flour into a paste. In a medium saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. Add the butter-flour paste and whisk vigorously until the sauce thickens. Add half the grated cheese and continue to whisk until melted. Add the nutmeg and season with salt and white pepper.

To assemble, layer the bottom and sides of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with the eggplant slices, making sure to overlap edges. Spread with half the meat mixture. Add another layer of eggplant slices and spread with the remaining meat mixture. Cover with remaining eggplant slices. Spread with half the béchamel and sprinkle with remaining grated cheese. Bake from 40 to 50 minutes until bubbling around the edges of the pan. Remove and let cool for 30 minutes. Serve squares with remaining béchamel sauce and either homemade or store-bought marinara sauce on the side. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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Mango-Coconut Ice Cream

There is nothing more tropical than the sweet flavor and perfumed fragrance of ripened mangoes. Add to that the creamy texture and delicate flavor of coconut milk and you are all set for paradise. If I were stuck on a deserted island, I would happily subsist on these two complimentary fruits. Mangoes when fresh and perfectly ripe have golden buttery flesh that may sometimes be pulpy and fibrous. They are fine eaten just as is, sliced from the large oblong pit, but are even better when made into a fruit drink or dessert.

I've been wanting to make ice cream all year long, hoping for that optimal moment when inspiration would strike. This summer seemed to be just the right time to make the frozen treat. But I wasn't sure what flavor I'd make. After one failed attempt at making chocolate frozen yogurt a year ago, my ice cream maker has been sitting in its box begging to be used. The machine and I were waiting for that moment when an ingredient would call to us. Just last week I discovered trays of overripe mangoes at the supermarket on discount. I knew right away for what I'd be using them.



Ice cream making is the perfect solution for turning mangoes into a unique dessert, especially when the fruit is overripe. Once puréed, the mango mixture can be used alone or combined with other fruits and/or preparations to make sorbet, sherbet, or ice cream. In this combination, coconut milk is used to round out the tropical flavors. A touch of cardamom is added for a Southeast Asian kick. Then a custard base is made before all the ingredients are combined, chilled, and churned in the ice cream maker. There are a number of steps involved, but the end result is worth the time spent in the kitchen.

Mango-Coconut Ice Cream

3 ripe mangoes
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1 tablespoon lime juice
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon ground green cardamom
1 cup whole milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
3 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/3 cup confectioners sugar

Slice each mango lengthwise on both sides of the pit. Remove the flesh with a large spoon, discarding the skin. Scrape any flesh from the pit. In a blender, purée mangoes until smooth. Press mixture through a fine-mesh sieve set over a large bowl, discarding remaining pulp. There should be about 1-1/2 cups of puréed mangoes.

To the strained mangoes, add coconut milk, lime juice, vanilla extract, and cardamom.

For the custard base, combine milk and heavy cream in a saucepan; bring to a boil.

In a medium bowl, beat together the egg yolks, starch, and sugar until light and creamy. To the bowl, slowly pour the hot liquid. Whisk vigorously to prevent curdling.

Return the mixture to the saucepan and warm over low heat. Stir constantly until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon, up to 10 minutes.

Strain custard through a fine-mesh sieve set over the mango-coconut mixture. Stir to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 to 4 hours.

Transfer mixture to ice cream maker and churn for 30 to 40 minutes depending on the machine. Transfer to a large container, such as a loaf pan, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until hard, about 12 hours or overnight. Yield: 2 quarts.

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Fava Bean Salad with Radishes and Pecorino

Fava beans with their fuzzy and floppy outer pods and strange green beans have been intriguing to me for quite a while. I've seen them on restaurant menus and even in farmers' markets, but I've yet to see them in supermarkets. Because of their rarity in the States, favas are snapped right up by shoppers when they become avaialble during summer. From my first encounter with favas at Le Zie, a quaint trattoria focusing on Northern Italian cuisine, I've come to enjoy their buttery texture, slight bitter taste, and nutty flavor.

The name fava is Italian, but the beans are not just an Italian vegetable as many may assume. In English-speaking countries, favas are also known as broad beans. The beans are a staple in many cultures throughout Africa, Asia, and Europe, and along with chickpeas, lentils, and peas date back to ancient times. The beans can be enjoyed either fresh and raw or cooked from fresh or from dried. A trip to the Union Square Greenmarket about a week ago yielded me the freshest and most beautiful fava beans, which I decided to use in this salad inspired by the one I tried at the restaurant.



Fava beans are an unusual legume: Not only do they have a thick cushioney outer pod, but each bean is surrounded by a thin skin that needs to be peeled before eating. The beans can be peeled raw, but the best way to peel favas is by blanching them in boiling water for a few minutes. Peeling them becomes much easier and the beans take on a bright green hue. The beans can then be added to salads, cooked with other vegetables for a side dish, or smashed for use as a topping on bruschetta. Here I serve the salad with grilled bread for a light summer appetizer that's full in flavor and varied in texture. For those who haven't tried favas, it's a bean that you will come to love in many different preparations.

Fava Bean Salad with Radishes and Pecorino

4 cups shucked fava beans
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
6 ounces radishes, thinly sliced
4 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, thinly shaved

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add fava beans and cook until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and shock in ice water. Remove outer skins and place beans on paper towels to drain.

In a small bowl, combine the lemon juice and olive oil; whisk until blended. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the vinaigrette over the beans, radishes, and cheese. Lightly toss to combine. Yield: 4 servings.

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