Chilaquiles

For those who love Mexican food, there's nothing better than finding a good Mexican restaurant to frequent regularly. That's because foreign cuisine can seem tough to tackle at home, especially the unique Mexican. But sometimes the craving hits without notice and you want something more than salsa and chips. For me that's when I get the urge to make authentic Mexican food at home. I have yet to master the cuisine, but rather than hit the fast-food chain with the bell or an expensive restaurant, I make my favorite dish in my own kitchen. Chilaquiles is the dish I've found really easy and successful for a beginner in south-of-the-border cooking.

Chilaquiles, a Mexican dish purposely invented to repurpose day-old tortillas, is also the perfect dish for using leftover Thanksgiving turkey or chicken. Made up of fried tortillas, shredded chicken, tomatillo salsa, and cheese, it can resembles a lasagne when layered in a casserole dish. But for faster results, chilaquiles can also be put together in tortilla stacks and placed in a hot oven just to melt the cheese and warm it through. When I first tasted chilaquiles at a restaurant, it hit my comfort spot immediately. Once I found a recipe by Daisy Martinez, I knew I had to try making it for myself. It's a dish that can make a person or—if you're willing to share—an entire family very happy.

The recipe is completely up to interpretation. The dish can be made with either green or red salsa. For me it has to be salsa verde made with tomatillos. The salsa is also used in many Mexican recipes such as my other favorite, enchiladas suizas. The salsa can also be served with chips. Instead of poultry, shredded pork works well. Any good melting cheese can be used, but I love the crumbly quality of queso fresco. It looks like feta or ricotta cheese, but it does melt unlike those two. After making this dish Mexican cooking just seems a but more easy to tackle. In the end it's all about finding the comfort in uncomplicated food.

Chilaquiles

Adapted from Daisy Cooks by Daisy Martinez.

1-1/2 pounds tomatillos
1 medium sweet onion, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves
1 jalapeño, seeded
1 bunch cilantro plus more for garnish
1 handful mint leaves
fine sea salt
18 6-inch corn tortillas
canola oil
3 cups shredded cooked chicken or turkey
8 ounces queso fresco
sour cream, for serving
sliced red onions, for garnish

To make the salsa, remove husks from tomatillos. Wash, core, and chop into small chunks. Add to blender and pulse until completely smooth. Add onion and garlic; blend until smooth. Add jalapeño, cilantro, and mint; blend until smooth. Pour into a saucepan and warm over medium heat. Season with salt.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Brush a casserole dish with oil.

Warm oil in a large skillet set over high heat. Fry the tortillas until golden and crisp, about 3 minutes per side.

Layer casserole dish with six fried tortillas per layer. Then top with chicken, salsa, and cheese. Repeat two more layers. The top layer should have no chicken. Bake for 20 minutes until cheese has melted and casserole is warmed through. Serve with sour cream and garnish with sliced red onions and cilantro. Yield: 6 servings.

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Squash and Honey Pie with Cornmeal Crust

My favorite part about Thanksgiving is always the desserts. Pumpkin pie and pecan pie are my favorites, but squash pie is my personal specialty. But all the Thanksgiving pies are very much American specialties. You can't really find pie as popular anywhere else in the world. The first Americans, the pilgrims, who celebrated the holiday did not automatically think to make pies out of the land's native squashes and pumpkins. They were more apt to eat meat pies for a main dish and custards for dessert as was the tradition in Europe, but because of scarcity, they had to use the plentiful crops for something. Some bright individual combined pumpkins, pie, and custard and came up with the basics for the recipes we follow today. I sincerely thank that individual.

There's just something special about fall and winter squashes, their unique shapes and earthy flavors, that makes me want to cook and bake with them. Since I prefer the more mellow flavor of squash to pumpkin, I use acorn or butternut squash. Sometimes I steam or roast them for this recipe, but canned squash or pumpkin works perfectly well. Since it's synonymous with the holiday, it's the only time I use a can all year. This recipe is very quick and easy. The squash custard is whipped in one bowl. A machine isn't even required. So, do not buy a pumpkin pie from the bakery or frozen section of the grocery store. And whatever you do, don't buy frozen pie crust either. This pie with its cornmeal crust is much more unique than anything available in stores. Serve with a dollop of fresh whipped cream and your guests will be delightedly pleased with Thanksgiving dessert.

Squash and Honey Pie

5 large eggs
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 14.5-ounce can squash purée
2/3 cup honey
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
cornmeal crust, recipe follows

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

In a large bowl, using a whisk, beat together eggs and cream. Add squash purée, honey, salt, and spices; beat to combine.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll out pie dough to 1/4-inch thickness. Carefully lay dough into a 10-inch pie pan. Press dough into the sides. Remove excess dough with a knife. Crimp the edge using your thumb and forefingers.

Pour squash custard into pie shell. Bake for 10 minutes at 425 degrees F. to crisp the crust. Lower heat to 350 degrees F. and bake until custard is set and puffed but not cracked, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. A skewer inserted into the center should come out clean. Let cool completely. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Yield: 8 to 10 slices.

Cornmeal Crust

1-1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup fine yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk
3 to 5 tablespoons ice water

Combine flour, cornmeal, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Mix together with a whisk to aerate. Add butter and work with a pastry blender until mixture resembles course meal.

In a small bowl, beat together egg yolk and 3 tablespoons ice water. Drizzle liquid mixture into dry ingredients. Mix until dough comes together. If too dry, 1 to 2 tablespoons ice water can be added.

Form the dough into a flat disc and wrap in plastic. Chill for at least 1 hour before rolling.

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Unique Wines for the Thanksgiving Table

Choosing a wine for the Thanksgiving table does not have to be as difficult as many make it seem. With the variety of competing flavors of Thanksgiving, it may seem difficult to find the perfect pairing. Finding a wine that goes with everything is key. And there are plenty of wines available in the market that accomplish the task. But you definitely don't want an overpowering wine or a lightweight wine that doesn't stand up to the many different dishes. Look for a fruity medium-bodied wine with good tartness or crispness. It has to cut through the rich autumnal flavors as well as complement the roast turkey. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are among the best wines for Thanksgiving, but a few other, more unique choices are available too. The following wines are all fruit-forward, food-friendly, and suitable for a whole range of tastes. Surprise your guests with one or more of these picks.

Beaujolais Nouveau is one of the most popular wines this time of year. Every third Thursday in November France releases it into the world with much lauded fanfare and drop ships it to locations worldwide. After the grapes are harvested, the juice is only fermented for a few weeks before becoming wine. Though it sometimes is an underwhelming wine, this year is deemed to be the best in the past 50 years due to perfect weather conditions. This wine from négociant Georges Duboeuf is the easiest to find in wine stores across the country, but many other brands can also be procured. Beaujolais is made from the Gamay grape in the Burgundy subregion of the same name. The resulting wine is very fruity with a light to medium body with nice tartness but low tannins. It's the perfect red wine to go with poultry, especially turkey or chicken. This wine is possibly one of the only reds that can benefit from slight chilling, but try it at different temperatures to see which is more appealing. Drink it while it's young, the wine is not meant for aging.

A few years ago I discovered this special Austrian wine grape variety. Zweigelt is a hybrid cross between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent grapes created by Austrian biologist and viticulturist Fritz Zweigelt. Surprisingly, it is the most widely grown grape variety in Austria, but it is not well known elsewhere. Here in America we mostly know of Austrian white wines like Riesling and not the country's many exceptional reds. Grown in Austria, Hungary, and Canada, this particular Heinrich Zweigelt is grown in the Burgenland, the easternmost region of Austria, a long fought over strip of land that once belonged to Hungary. The region is characterized by a mild climate, ideal for growing wine grapes. The wine is medium to full-bodied, fruity, and has a hint of minerality and spiciness. It has a similar flavor profile to that of Beaujolais. It is very food friendly and makes an exceptional pairing with many roast meats, especially turkey.

You can't go wrong with Italy's most famous wine, chianti. A blended wine, chianti is comprised of mainly the Sangiovese grape variety and a few other regulated varieties. It's a classic Italian wine, just think of the bellied bottles encased in a straw basket, that has become famous enough to be termed the Bordeaux of Italy. This Ruffino Aziano Chianti Classico is specifically made up of 80% Sangiovese with the remaining 20% from a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Canaiolo. The wine is aged in stainless-steel tanks and thus retains the pure fruity character. It has intense aromas of plums and cherries with smooth tannins and a medium body. With some age the flavor profile can turn toward tobacco and chocolate. It is a great choice for any meal including the Italian pasta favorites, but works exceptionally well for the holiday table from Thanksgiving until Christmas.

Albariño, a very old white wine grape variety grown in the Rías Baixas region of Galicia, Spain, has been compared to German Rieslings, sharing similar characteristics of fruitiness, floral fragrance, and off-dry crispness. Typically it pairs well with seafood and spicy-hot dishes, but Albariño also makes a wonderful complement to the spices of the Thanksgiving table. This Brandal Albariño is light to medium-bodied and has aromatic citrus and peach notes with a clean, crisp almost nutty finish. It is aged in stainless steel tanks and like Riesling has no oak flavor. It's off-dry character and salinity, a result of Galicia's coastal Northwest location, will appeal to even the fussiest of palates. It's great with white flesh, such as fish, chicken, or turkey and stands up to the many flavors of Thanksgiving. Serve chilled and the flavors will be even more present.

Black Box Monterey County Chardonnay is one of my new favorite wines. I had been a skeptic of boxed wines for a long time, but after trying many boxed wines and tetrapaks, the Black Box brand of wines showed the most quality and value. Their Chardonnay is perfect for parties at holiday time, especially when there is an easy-to-dispense spigot involved. The wine is lightly oaked, fruity, and crisp. It makes an ideal and more traditional pairing with turkey and all the fixings. The best feature is that one box holds the equivalent of four bottles and with a price of $22, it does not break the bank. If your guests are hesitant about boxed wine, decant it into carafe and let them chat about the aspects of the wine before revealing the truth later in the evening. That's how I first was introduced to the wonders of boxed wine. From that point onward I was much more receptive to the idea of wine in a box. Skeptic guests will change their minds too. Serve slightly chilled to reveal its flavors.

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Cranberry-Quince Compote

No Thanksgiving dinner table is complete without cranberry sauce. Cranberries and turkeys are both native to North America, so it's fitting that they have come to represent the holidays not to mention the wonderful pairing they make. Many of us have become accustomed to the cranberry sauce that slides out of a can. It's really not that elegant. Cranberry sauce, compote, or chutney made from scratch is so much more special. For many years now I've been making one or the other. When guests who have only ever eaten canned sauce try my recipe, they swear never to back to canned again.

Fresh cranberries can be found everywhere in supermarkets this time of year. When making a sauce, like this compote, combine the berries with a variety of fresh or dried fruits, which helps to balance their tartness. I've tried all combinations: apples, pears, grapes, dates, and raisins. But the most unique combination I've created is with quince, a pear-like fruit originating from Asia.


Like a cross between an apple and a pear with a light yellow-green skin, the quince is an immensely fragrant and flavorful fruit. Quinces are a bit too astringent to eat raw and instead are used in cooking, baking, and jam-making. Quince can be found individually packaged in supermarkets during the fall and winter seasons. They are definitely worth picking up for this fall-fruit compote.

To prevent browning once cut, the quince, as with apples and pears, should be tossed in lemon or orange juice. For additional flavor, this recipe uses white wine and pomegranate molasses. If preferred, water can be substituted for the wine. Pomegranate syrup, such as grenadine, works well in place of the molasses. Or pomegranate juice can be added in the beginning instead of the wine or water. The compote can be made days in advance and will last for a week or two in the refrigerator.

Cranberry-Quince Compote

3 cups fresh cranberries
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 large quinces
1/2 cup fresh orange juice (about 1 orange)
1 tablespoon lemon zest (about 1 lemon)
1/4 cup pomegranate molasses
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

Combine cranberries, sugar, and wine a saucepan set over medium-low heat. Cook until cranberries pop and mixture is syrupy, about 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, peel, core, and cut quince into cubes. Toss with orange juice and lemon zest.

Add quince mixture, pomegranate molasses, cinnamon, and nutmeg to pan. Increase heat to medium-high and cook until quinces are tender, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Yield: 8 to 10 servings.

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The Perfect Cup of Tea

Tea has been the liquid of life for centuries. It is the second-most consumed beverage after water. It is the beverage of choice for many people around the world who enjoy it daily. In the United States we tend to drink tea more commonly at breakfast time. As the national beverage of the United Kingdom, it is specially enjoyed as part of the custom of afternoon tea. Tea is deeply ingrained in world history, from its beginnings thousands of years ago in the courts of Chinese emperors to its rapid rise in popularity through Europe and the Western world. Battles have been fought over tea, such as the infamous Boston Tea Party. Tea has seen it through the beginning and end of colonialism. Its influence on society and culture has been great.

Tea has the power to bring people together. It is enjoyed by both upper class and working class, the intellectual and everyman. It can be consumed for religious or health reasons. But in the East it is enjoyed for its transcendental qualities more so than its health benefits. Whereas in many Western countries it is enjoyed simply for pleasure. Whatever your reason for drinking tea, it's a beverage that must earn the drinker's respect. With so much care taken into producing leaves, the picking, drying, sorting, and packaging, it deserves a certain amount of attention and care to create the perfect cup of tea. The one constant throughout the history of tea has been the pleasurable act of making and drinking a hot, steaming cup. To that end, let me show you how to make the perfect cup of tea.

Types of Tea

All teas, except herbal teas, come from the tea bush (Camellia sinensis). Tea-growing regions include China, Japan, Taiwan, India, and Sri Lanka, among many other Asian countries. The bright green, leathery, serrated leaves are picked from the bush by hand. Some are processed differently than others to create many different types of tea. Those leaves that are allowed to oxidize for certain periods of time become black teas. Those that are unoxidized but simply dried create green teas. White tea is made from wilted leaves. Oolong is made from partially oxidized leaves. And puerh is made from leaves aged for very long periods of time. Each type of tea has a distinctive flavor and is brewed in a certain manner to make sure the particularities come through in the final cup.

The Leaves

The most important part of a good cup of tea is the quality of the leaves. Good tea can be brewed from brand name tea bags, but loose leaves are superior and have better value per cup. Most loose teas are made up of either full leaves or crushed leaves. Both are fine for brewing. The tea leaves should look consistent in size and shape, if not then it may be a cheap blend. When shopping for teas, look for tea merchants selling in their own stores or online. A good tea merchant should have a high turnaround and should be able to guarantee the freshness of the teas. Teas sold in bulk and weighed to order or packed in tins will be fresher than brand name teas sold in supermarkets. Those mass-market teas are sometimes harvested up to a year or more in advance before being processed, blended, and ground for tea bags, sometimes making the quality questionable. A pound of loose tea yields about 200 servings. If resteeped, brewed in multiple infusions, it can go up to 600 servings, making loose teas a much better value than branded tea bags. Tea should be stored in an airtight container away from sunlight and in a dry, cool environment, lasting up to one year.

Brewing Method

Good water is essential for great tea since it makes up 99% of a cup of tea. Tap water is fine if it's neither hard nor too soft, but filtered water or spring water is the best. There are three methods recommended for boiling water for tea. First, water can be heated to the correct temperature for brewing a specific variety of tea. Or the water can be brought to a full boil and allowed to cool or cold water can be added to it. No matter which method is chosen, the water should always start out fresh and cold. For every heaping teaspoon or 2 grams of tea there should be 6 to 8 ounces of water, which is the amount that fills an average tea cup. When brewing it's best to cover the pot or cup to keep in the steam and allow the leaves to unfurl more fully than if uncovered.

Infusing

There are many different ways to brew tea, but the best way has the leaves in full contact with the water. Tea balls have been the most popular way to brew loose teas, however, this method does not allow the leaves to properly circulate in the water, leading to an unbalanced cup. Infuser baskets or tea filters are far better. A fine-mesh stainless steel basket works wonderfully in tea pots and tea cups. Once the tea has brewed, the basket can easily be lifted out along with the spent leaves. If brewed directly in the tea pot, teas can be strained into another tea pot for serving or directly into tea cups. Some teapots, typically British tea pots, have built in strainers in the spout, but even then a fine-mesh sieve might be necessary to remove all particles. Most teas can be steeped multiple times. In China, tea custom has it that the first brewing is discarded and only the subsequent brewings are drunk. White, green, and oolong teas can be brewed up to five times, while black teas should only be brewed no more than two times.

Temperature and Time

For each variety of tea to reach its full potential, it's important to brew at a certain temperature and length of time. Teas that are brewed too long or at too high a temperature can be bitter and astringent. The British are known for brewing their teas with water straight from the kettle, which is in most cases too high a temperature. Electric water kettles can now be purchased with built in digital thermometers purposely made for the brewing of tea. An instant-read thermometer works just fine too. A long-time tea drinker will recognize the correct temperature of boiled water by the way it looks. A tall column of steam usually means the water is at a low temperature (170–180°F), whereas large bubbles indicate a moderate temperature (180–200°F), small bubbles, a high temperature (190–200°F). If the water is white-hot (200–212°F), it is a full rolling boil, which is too hot for most teas except aged teas such as Puerh. At this temperature the water can scorch the more delicate tea leaves such as white and green. Always pour the water not directly over the tea leaves but onto the side of the tea vessel to prevent scorching of any kind.

Tea Type	Temperature	Brewing Time
White	160–170°F	90 seconds to 2 minutes
Green	170–180°F	2–3 minutes
Oolong	180–200°F	90 seconds to 2 minutes
Black	190–200°F	3–5 minutes
Puerh	200–212°F	2–5 minutes

Serving

The process of serving is just as significant as the process of brewing. It's not just for show that certain tea-serving customs are held, but for treating the tea with the utmost respect. Before serving, the tea pot and tea cups should be warmed. Fill them with hot tap water and let them sit for a few minutes before pouring the water out. To the tea pot add spoonfuls of tea or measure by weight. Fill with the appropriate temperature of water, cover, and let steep for the appropriate amount of time. Strain the liquid into the warmed cups and serve. The tea should be poured off from the leaves immediately or the leaves should be removed from the tea once the correct brewing time is achieved. Do not let the leaves stay in contact with the water too long as it will make a very astringent cup. A touch of milk can be added to black teas and a few drops of lemon juice complements oolong tea. Otherwise sweeteners are unnecessary. It's best to taste the tea as it is, particularly with white and green teas, which have subtle flavors to begin with.

Suggested Reading

The Harney & Sons Guide to Tea

The Story of Tea: A Cultural History and Drinking Guide

Suggested Purveyors

Harney & Sons Fine Teas

Special Teas

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Currant Scones

On the quest to bake the perfect scone, I've baked batch after batch of flat, hard, and dry scones. But as the saying goes, the third time's the charm. On my third try I created the fluffiest, most tender, high-rise scone. I have a great love for scones. Some of my best memories have been made while eating scones over tea with friends. I love them spread with clotted cream and jam. I remember the first time I had a scone was at the Orangery in Kensington Gardens in London. A group of us had the full English afternoon tea treatment with cucumber sandwiches, pots of the best tea from India, scones, and other tea cakes. Since then I always have room for a scone with hot tea on a blustery winter afternoon.

Typically scones are made plain or with sultanas, which are what the British call raisins. But any dried berry or chopped dried fruit works well. I especially love currants, cranberries, golden raisins, or chopped apricots. Chopped nuts also work well. Spices such as ground cinnamon, ginger, or cardamom lend a festive touch. Lemon or orange zest in the batter adds a nice citrus fragrance. Whatever combination you choose, scones are always well received around the holiday time. They make an ideal offering for whenever family or friends stop by to visit. Best of all they can be whipped together in minutes.

In England cookies are commonly called biscuits; biscuits, scones; and scones, rock cakes. Biscuits are flat like cookies. Scones are cut out round while rock cakes are free-formed, but typically wedge shaped. I tried baking both round ones and triangular ones and found that the triangular ones when cut with a sharp knife rise higher than round ones cut with a biscuit cutter. A bit of baking soda in addition to a good amount of baking powder helps in creating the perfect rise too.

Rock cakes in England are so hard that they could be used as lethal weapons in a food fight. Luckily I've created ones that are much more docile. First, there are no eggs, which create that stereotypical rock-hardness. For very tender, fluffy scones, pastry flour is the best, but since it's sometimes hard to find, a half-and-half combination of all-purpose and cake flours does the trick. The addition of heavy cream also helps to create tenderness. If not at hand, a full cup of milk can be used. Buttermilk also works well. A recipe is always up for reinterpretation, but I've found this one to work the best.

Currant Scones

1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1-1/2 cups cake flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 cup (1-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into pieces
1 tablespoon lemon zest (about 1 lemon)
3/4 cup dried currants
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat.

In a large bowl, combine flours, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Mix together with a whisk to aerate.

Add butter and work with a pastry blender until mixture resembles course meal.

Add zest and currants. Mix with a fork to combine and coat the currants with flour.

Make a well. Pour in cream and milk. Use a fork to fold in the dry ingredients.

Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead a few times until a ball forms. Pat the dough into a rectangle about 3/4 inches thick. Brush dough with milk and sprinkle with sugar. Using a sharp knife, cut dough into wedges. Place on baking sheet an inch apart. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until lightly golden. Cool completely on a wire rack or serve warm. Yield: 12 scones.

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Almond Cake

A few months ago I had an amazing dinner among friends at Vino's, a local family-run Italian restaurant in Fairfield, CT. We enjoyed all their best Italian dishes and their desserts accompanied by live music. One dessert stood out in particular, the almond cake. My friend demanded that I make one soon. I took it upon myself to bake one that captured the best of an almond cake: a soft yet textural interior, buttery color, crisp exterior, and most importantly a noticeable fragrance and flavor of almonds. It turned out that baking the cake was far from the hardest part of this recipe. The biggest feat was finding almond paste in my area. I visited every grocery store and supermarket and could not find a can or tube of it. Luckily I was reminded of the Italian market. How could have I neglected to look there first?

Almond paste has a sort of grainy texture due to all the ground almonds. But to further play on that texture, this cake combines cornmeal with flour. The cornmeal lends a homey quality and along with the butter and egg yolks, a beautiful pale straw color. To give the cake airiness, the eggs are separated and the whites are whipped with sugar until they resemble a meringue. The whites are then folded into the batter at the last minute before baking. Halfway through the baking process, sliced almonds are added to the top of the cake. They provide an extra textural component, flavor, and crunchiness. Serve with a dusting of powdered sugar, and it's a dessert that's ideal with tea or a cappuccino. And the cake is also a nice lighter alternative to heavy pumpkin or pecan pie for the upcoming turkey holiday.

Almond Cake

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup fine yellow cornmeal
1-1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
4 large eggs, separated
1-1/4 cup granulated sugar, divided
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup almond paste
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2/3 cup whole milk
2/3 cup sliced almonds with skins
confectioners sugar, for dusting

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9-inch cake pan, line the bottom with a round of parchment paper, and butter again.

In a bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites with 1/4 cup sugar until soft billowy peaks form. The whites should glisten like a meringue. Scrape whites into another bowl.

In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, at medium speed, cream the butter until fluffy. Add the almond paste and remaining 1 cup sugar; continue to beat until incorporated. Add vanilla and egg yolks, one at a time, and beat until combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. With the mixer on low, alternately add the dry ingredients, then the milk, and finish with the dry ingredients. By hand fold in the egg whites, half at a time, until just combined.

Pour batter into cake pan and smooth top. Bake for 20 minutes. Cake will be raw and jiggly. Scatter the sliced almonds on top of the cake. Be careful not to jostle the cake too much while adding the almonds. It's best to do so right in the oven. Turn cake so that it bakes evenly. Continue to bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cake cool completely in pan.

Once cool, the cake should recede slightly from the rim of the pan. Run a thin knife around cake and turn out onto a rack. Some almonds may be lost. Remove pan and the parchment paper liner. Carefully flip cake onto a serving plate. Dust with confectioners sugar. Yield: 12 slices.

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Pommes Frites with Mayonnaise

I think I can speak for everyone when I say French fries are probably Americans' favorite guilty pleasure. So much so that Americans dared to rename them Freedom fries when France objected to the war. Interestingly there is nothing French about them. As history goes, potatoes were first brought to Spain via the New World expeditions. Fried potatoes became popular during the 17th century in the Spanish Netherlands, present day Belgium. When there were no fish to fry, the poorer citizens fried potatoes. Sometime during World War I, an American or British soldier eating fried potatoes erroneously named them French fries since French was the official language of Belgium. Another theory suggests that the culinary term for slicing into thin strips, "to French," was applied to fried potatoes and thus the name.

However the story goes, fried potatoes or pommes frites have achieved worldwide acclaim. American fast food chains accepted them as their own and their popularity soared. Once you bite into a golden crisp fry with a pure white fluffy interior, you just can't stop at one. They're addictive and comforting. For me there's nothing better than making my own fries at home. No frozen bags here. And no jarred mayo either. I serve fries in the European style with creamy yellow homemade mayonnaise. The stuff can be whipped together in less than five minutes even when beaten by hand. So why not try making homemade fries with mayonnaise, is there anything better?

Pommes Frites with Mayonnaise

Note: The best French fries are always fried twice, the first frying cooks the inside whereas the second crisps the outside.

4 russet potatoes
canola oil
Kosher salt

Wash and scrub potatoes, especially if leaving skin on. Cut potatoes into 1/4-inch thick sticks using a sharp knife or mandoline. Transfer to a bowl with cold water.

Heat an electric skillet or sauté pan with an inch of oil to 325 degrees F. Check temperature with a candy thermometer.

Drain potatoes and pat with paper towels. Fry in batches until cooked through yet still pale, about 3 minutes. Transfer to tray lined with paper towels.

Raise temperature of oil to 375 degrees F. Fry potatoes in batches until golden brown and crisp, about 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to another tray lined with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. Serve in a parchment paper cone set into a cup. Yield: 2 servings.

Mayonnaise

Note: Mayonnaise can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one week. Make sure to cover with plastic wrap directly on top of mayonnaise to prevent skin from forming.

1 large egg yolk
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 cup olive or canola oil (or a combination)

Warm a large stainless steel bowl with hot water and dry thoroughly. Nestle the bowl into a heavy earthenware bowl lined with a kitchen towel to keep it from moving. Add egg yolk and beat until frothy. Add vinegar, salt, and mustard; beat until combined. Slowly drizzle in oil with one hand while whisking vigorously with the other hand. Switch hands if necessary, but do not stop whisking until a thick emulsion has formed. Yield: 1-1/2 cups.

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Gratin Dauphinois

Potatoes make some of the best and most comforting side dishes, especially when they're roasted or baked. A gratin of potatoes combines the best of both techniques, a soft creamy interior and a crunchy browned top. Much like scalloped potatoes but without the cheesy top layer, gratin Dauphinois, from the former French province of Dauphiné, is as simple as a homey country dish can get. The texture and the flavors of the potatoes do all the work to make an out-of-this-world potato dish.

Traditional gratin Dauphinois has no bells and whistles. It's simply thinly sliced potatoes and luscious cream baked in a dish rubbed with garlic and butter. The thick cream and starchy potatoes create the perfect texture, consistency, and crust. Therefore no cheese is even necessary. Some like to dust the potato layers with gratings of nutmeg. But I prefer the earthy flavors of fresh thyme. It's a lovely complement to the garlic as well as a favorite herb to use with potatoes. The gratin goes excellently with any roast meat, but in my opinion juicy roast chicken is the best. It's a simple yet special meal to enjoy this fall and for the upcoming holidays.

Gratin Dauphinois

1 pound red or Yukon gold potatoes
1 pound russet potatoes
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup heavy cream
1 garlic clove
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Peel potatoes and rinse in water. Cut into 1/8-inch thick slices using a sharp knife or mandoline. Do not rinse slices.

Rub a round 2-quart baking dish with a cut piece of garlic. Then rub with butter. Mince garlic.

Pour a little cream into baking dish. Line with potato slices, overlapping a bit. Pour in a bit of cream. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, garlic, and thyme. Start another layer and keep building until all the potato slices are used. Do not put garlic on top layer as it can burn. Dot the top with remaining butter. Bake potatoes until knife tender and top layer is crisp and brown, about 1 hour. Let cool slightly before serving. Yield: 6 servings.

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Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Drunken Prunes and Crushed Amaretti

It seems that every culture has some sort of dumplings. They are a hearty and inexpensive meal that can feed an entire family. And they are an incomparable comfort food. Some dumplings are made out of potatoes, cheese, breadcrumbs, or just flour. Others are filled with meat, fish, or sweets. And some are steamed, boiled, fried, or baked. There are countless names, all in different languages, for these dumplings. But the most well-known dumplings are gnocchi from Italy. They have becomes so popular that they can be found frozen or even dried in grocery stores all across the country.

It's easy to toss a bagful into a pot of boiling water. But I find them much more rewarding when I make them myself. They actually don't take as long as you would think. Once the potatoes are baked, the dough preparation is very quick. I make hundreds of gnocchi and freeze half for another meal. Freshly made gnocchi can be frozen on trays and then kept in resealable bags in the freezer for months. I never need to buy them anymore. The best thing about making gnocchi from scratch is that the recipe can be as creative as you want it to be.

This recipe, from Ron Suhanosky of Sfoglia restaurant, combines sweet potatoes with russet potatoes for very flavorful and pillowy gnocchi evocative of the season. They are then dressed in prunes cooked in sweet wine and a topping of crumbled amaretti cookies. It's the ultimate marriage of sweet and savory flavors. It makes for a perfect dinner-party appetizer or a family meal in itself. The recipe also works well with winter squash or pumpkins, simply switch out the sweet potatoes. Make sure to use a portion of russet potatoes; they keep the texture of the gnocchi just right. Once you start eating these little pillows of goodness, you won't be able to stop.

Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Drunken Prunes and Crushed Amaretti

Recipe adapted from Pasta Sfoglia by Ron and Colleen Suhanosky.

1-1/2 pounds sweet potatoes
1-1/2 pounds russet potatoes
1 large egg
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
2 cups all-purpose flour
rice flour, for dusting
2 cups dried prunes, pitted and coarsely chopped
1 cup sweet red wine
2 tablespoons butter
6 amaretti cookies, crushed

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.

Pierce potatoes all over with a fork. Place on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until knife tender, about 1 hour. Let potatoes cool to the touch before peeling.

Pass potatoes through a ricer into a bowl. In another bowl, beat together egg, maple syrup, salt, and nutmeg.

Bring a large pot of liberally salted water to a boil.

Spread flour over work surface. Place potatoes on top. Make a well and pour in egg mixture. Using a dough scraper, keep folding up sides until dough comes together. Knead gently into a large rectangle. Cut into smaller manageable pieces, about 8. Dust work surface with rice flour. Roll each piece into a 1-inch wide snake. Slice into 1/2-inch gnocchi. Toss in rice flour and store on trays lined with parchment paper.

Add gnocchi in batches to boiling water. Cook until gnocchi float to the top, about 1 to 2 minutes. Lift out gnocchi using a slotted spoon or wire-mesh spider. Transfer to a platter.

Combine prunes and wine in a skillet set over medium heat. Simmer until bubbling and alcohol has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add butter and cook until melted. Add about 1/4 cup of pasta water to loosen sauce. Pour sauce over gnocchi. Garnish with crushed amaretti. Serve immediately. Yield: 6 servings.

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Baked Three-Cheese Pasta with Parsley Pesto and Shrimp

Who didn't grown up eating macaroni and cheese made right from the blue box? It was one of the many kids' staples I grew up eating, one that I couldn't get enough of. Macaroni and cheese has a homey and cozy feel that almost no dish can come close to. It's probably because it's so rooted in everyone's childhood, that we can never turn up our noses at the blue box. But unfortunately there comes a time to grow up, which doesn't mean we must forgo our mac 'n cheese. It just means we sometimes should make it from scratch, especially when others are watching. It's really very easy to make and the possibilities for reinvention with new ingredients are endless.

Here I take classic macaroni and cheese and bring it up a couple of notches, producing a gourmet slash Italian version. It's my absolute primal love for cheese that leads me to combine three of my favorite cheeses in one gooey meal. Fontina, Gruyère, and Parmesan provide the perfect mix of stretchy cheese, stinky cheese, and salty cheese. After adding all the cheeses to the béchamel, I blend in a pesto made of parsley and walnuts. The finishing gourmet touch is shrimp cut into chunks. This macaroni and cheese is a meal that's hardy, flavorful, and comforting all in one grown-up package. And you cannot call it mac 'n cheese.

Baked Three-Cheese Pasta with Parsley Pesto and Shrimp

12 ounces cavatappi
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
4 tablespoons butter, divided
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups milk, heated
fine sea salt
freshly ground white pepper
1/2 teaspoon hot paprika
1 cup grated Fontina
1 cup grated Gruyère
1 cup grated Parmesan plus 1/4 cup for topping
1/4 cup parsley pesto, recipe follows
1/4 cup breadcrumbs
chopped parsley, for garnish

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Cook cavatappi according to package directions in liberally salted water. Cut shrimp into bite-size chunks.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, until thick roux forms, about 2 minutes. Whisk in hot milk and cook, constantly whisking, until thickened, about 4 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika. Mix in cheeses and pesto. Combine with cooked pasta and shrimp.

Spread mixture in a 2-quart baking dish. Sprinkle top with breadcrumbs and 1/4 cup Parmesan. Melt remaining butter and drizzle over top. Bake for 30 minutes until bubbling. To brown top, set under broiler for no more than 5 minutes. Garnish with chopped parsley. Yield: 6 servings.

Parsley Pesto

1 bunch parsley, stems removed
1/2 cup walnuts
1/2 cup olive oil
coarse sea salt

Add parsley and walnuts to a food processor and pulse until thoroughly combined. Drizzle in oil and process until smooth. Season with salt. Leftover pesto can be stored in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month or frozen in a resealable plastic bag. Yield: 1 cup.

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Cauliflower Gratin with Orzo

I am a big fan of gratins or for that matter anything baked and covered in cheese, especially vegetables. And there is no other way I like cauliflower more than when it's baked. I don't particularly like it in soups or boiled or steamed. I like cauliflower encrusted with cheese and breadcrumbs. That's how I grew up eating it. Whenever we had a special Sunday dinner my mom would always make baked cauliflower slathered in sour cream and sprinkled with breadcrumbs. I loved it so much, I could almost eat the whole dish. Now I love to vary the way I bake cauliflower. But my favorite variation is gratinéed, which is much different from my mom's recipe, but it's unique and still very satisfying.

Instead of boiling or steaming the cauliflower before baking, like many recipes call for, here the cauliflower goes right into the oven. This way more vitamins and minerals remain in the vegetable instead of being released when boiling. Many times vegetable gratins can get watery, especially here since the cauliflower is not precooked. To counteract that, orzo is used in the bottom of the baking dish. While the cauliflower bakes, the orzo cooks in the liquid and absorbs all the flavors. With a serving each of starch and vegetable, this gratin makes for a great side dish to any main dish. But it also can be enjoyed simply on its own.

Cauliflower Gratin with Orzo

1/2 cup orzo
1 head cauliflower, cut into florets
4 tablespoons butter, divided
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups milk, heated
fine sea salt
freshly ground white pepper
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1 cup grated Gruyère
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
1/4 cup breadcrumbs

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Spread orzo in the bottom of a 2-quart baking dish. Add cauliflower florets, tucking them tightly together.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, until thick roux forms, about 2 minutes. Whisk in hot milk and cook, constantly whisking, until thickened, about 4 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika.

Pour Béchamel over cauliflower and orzo. Sprinkle top with both cheeses and breadcrumbs. Melt remaining butter and drizzle over top. Bake until cauliflower is tender, about 1 hour. If darker color is desired, set under broiler for no more than 5 minutes to brown top. Yield: 6 servings.

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French Onion Soup Gratiné

There is no soup more classic than the French onion soup. It's famous around the world and here in the United States, no bistro menu is without it. It's a soup that is ultimately comforting, flavorful, and adored by everyone who tries it. The best part is breaking through the irresistible topping of bread and melted cheese. No wonder so many people have claimed to be its inventor.

I first came across French onion soup a couple of years ago when a small group of friends and I gathered to celebrate my birthday at Cafe Deville, a rustic French bistro in the East village. We gorged on crusty bread, wine, escargot in butter, and ordered everything that was stereotypically French, including French onion soup. The cheese in that bowl was so stretchy that a knife was needed. It was a very memorable time. Good fun was had by all and the bottle of wine helped too.

To recreate that onion soup, I decided to make my own, inspired by the onion soups of Julia Child and Jacques Pépin. First I start with a base of onions slowly caramelized in butter. To further develop the complex flavors, I add wine and Cognac, followed by stock. A flavorful homemade beef or chicken stock is key to making the best version of this soup. A sprig of thyme and a bay leaf round out the earthy flavors. It's the perfect soup for a cold day enjoyed among family and friends. It makes an ideal appetizer but also works well as a main course. Serve the soup with a glass of wine and everyone will feel warmed right through.

French Onion Soup Gratiné

3 to 4 sweet onions (about 3 pounds), halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons butter
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 cup white wine
2 tablespoons Cognac
4 cups beef or chicken stock
2 cups water
1 thyme sprig
1 bay leaf
1 baguette
2 cups grated Gruyère

Melt butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add onions in layers, seasoning each layer with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are caramelized and brown, about 40 minutes. Add wine and Cognac. Simmer on medium-low until liquid has reduced and thickened, about 10 to 15 minutes. Add stock, water, thyme, and bay leaf. Simmer 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Slice baguette into 1/2-inch slices. Place on rimmed baking sheet and bake until dry, about 8 minutes.

Check soup for seasoning. Remove thyme and bay leaf. Ladle soup into oven-proof bowls. Top soup with 2 to 3 baguette slices and 1/2 cup grated Gruyère per bowl. Place bowls on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil until cheese is melted, bubbly, and brown, about 5 minutes. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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