Provençal Tian (Ratatouille-Like Summer Vegetable Casserole)

I've always loved Mediterranean dishes, especially those from Provence. I even used to keep a jar of herbes de Provence in my cupboard for those occasions when I wanted my cooking to have that south-of-France flair. Now I just make my own blend!

Probably one of the most famous dishes from the region is ratatouille, a homey summer vegetable stew. And now we all know about ratatouille thanks in part to the Disney animated film of the same name. But the dish prepared in the film is actually either a confit byaldi (invented by Michel Guérard) or a tian, which is another rustic dish from Provence.

A tian is like a ratatouille as it includes many of the same vegetables but instead of being stewed together, the vegetables are layered in a baking dish and then roasted. The tian, however, is named after the earthenware vessel that the recipe is baked in. So, technically anything baked in that vessel can be called a tian. Its American equivalent would be the casserole. But now I'm splitting hairs. I'm a fan of ratatouille (although I roast mine as well), but the tian is the more elegant, presentable version.



Interestingly, I first learned about the tian, the same year the animated film was released. I was an editorial assistant at Everyday Food magazine, and the executive food editor happened to be testing a tian recipe that winter. Watching the film, I knew that what was being presented on screen was not actually a ratatouille. But it didn't matter. The whole point of the film was the importance of love and nostalgia when it comes to food. And that is a concept I wholeheartedly support. Food is love and nostalgia and memories all rolled into one bundle.

For my recipe, I'm keeping things simple. I'm using zucchini, eggplant, and tomato along with garlic and thyme. Beyond that it's just olive oil, salt, and pepper. The key here is salting the zucchini and eggplant and letting them sit to sweat out the unnecessary moisture that would make the tian too soggy. I heat the garlic in the olive oil so there's less of a chance it would burn during the roasting, and I mix the fresh thyme into the oil as well. This gets brushed into the layers and onto the top of the tian. The garlic imparts a lot of flavor, so don't skip it!

Provençal Tian

1 medium green zucchini
1 medium yellow zucchini
1 medium purple globe eggplant
1 medium striped globe eggplant
fine sea salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves
5 sprigs thyme
2 medium tomatoes
freshly ground black pepper

Thinly slice the zucchini and eggplant, discarding the stem ends. Generously salt the slices and transfer to a colander. Set them aside for about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, mince the garlic. Add a large pinch of salt, and keep mincing and mashing with your knife until the garlic turns into a paste.

Warm 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add the mashed garlic, and heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Strip the thyme leaves from their sprigs directly into the garlic oil.

Slice the tomatoes crosswise and core them.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

In preparation for layering, pat at all the zucchini and eggplant dry using paper towels.

Oil a 3-quart baking dish with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil.

Layer the zucchini, eggplant, and tomatoes, alternating to create stripes of color. Spread some of the garlic-thyme oil in between the layers. Salt and pepper between the layers.

When done layering, spread the remaining garlic-thyme oil on top, and generously season with salt and pepper. Cover with aluminum foil, and roast for about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the foil, and continue roasting the tian for another 20 to 25 minutes, or until the vegetables are meltingly tender. Let cool slightly or to room temperature before serving. Yield: 6 servings as a side dish.