Pizza at Home

This pizza dough recipe is rather simple and leaves out the steps of beating down the dough and multiple risings. Just have patience to wait about 4 hours and you will have very good dough. The recipe is an adaptation of a focaccia recipe from Chris Bianco of Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. The pizza here in the picture has a pesto base with shredded mozzarella, grated parmesan, and toppings of sliced red peppers, sliced baby portobello mushrooms, marinated artichoke hearts, and pitted kalamata olives. Some tips: If you are using a block of mozzarella, freeze for about 15 minutes to make shredding easier. For extra-fine, snow-like parmesan, use a microplane grater. Italian fontina cheese also makes a great addition.

1 packet active dry yeast
5 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups of water
2-1/2 teaspoons fine salt
olive oil

Combine the yeast, half the flour, and water in a mixing bowl. Let stand for about 15 minutes.

Mix in the remaining flour and salt with a wooden spoon. Work in until well combined. Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead for about 15 minutes or until dough is silky and somewhat sticky. You can also do all this using a mixer fitted with the dough hook. All the flour should be worked into the dough. Form the dough into a ball and place in an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand for 3-1/2 to 4 hours in a warm place. Dough will be double in size.

Preheat the oven and a pizza stone to 500 degrees F. Yes, it will be hot!

Divide the dough into quarters and mold each piece into mini pizzas. Keep unused portions covered to prevent drying out. Dough can also be refrigerated for next day use or frozen for later use. Form pizzas by stretching the edges and working dough around in a circular motion. Don’t worry if the pizzas are not exactly uniform. Consider that Roman pizzas are oblong.

Place the formed pizza dough onto a pizza peel that has been sprinkled with cornmeal. Now you are ready to make the pizza. Start with a base of sauce or pesto, add cheese(s), and finish off with toppings of your choice.

Slide the pizza back and forth on the peel so that it comes close to the edge. Slide it onto the pizza stone and bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until the cheese is bubbly and the crust edges are slightly brown. Toward the end of the baking time you can use tongs to check the underside of the crust for doneness and color. It’s also easier to remove the pizza with tongs onto the peel or a breadboard. Yield: 4 personal-size pizzas.

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Spice Market

The over-the-top Southeast Asian decor of Spice Market would not be out of place on an Indiana Jones movie set. The attention to detail follows through from the pajama-like outfits of the waiters to the wooden “grand staircase,” a phrase that the waiters emphasize. The spare modern touches in the light fixtures and stainless steel utensils remind the eater that we are still in New York City. But of course you won’t be eating on the floor out of banana leaves using your hands in lieu of utensils. Get ready to lounge on upholstered white leather sofas or unique Asian chairs.

We entered the restaurant on a lovely early afternoon and were seated right by the open floor-to-ceiling doors. The restaurant is elevated from the street and offers a good view of the street below. Right outside some of the restaurant staff were setting up bistro tables and chairs, unloading them rather noisily from a truck for the rest of our time there. A long while later, we were finally given what in other restaurants would have been the bread and butter, but are here the pappadam, a fried paper-thin bread made from lentil flour, and kasundi, a tomato and chili condiment or jam—it was very spicy. We are also handed hot towels—I wish they would do that in other places too. Soon after, one of our many waiters tried too hard to get us to order cocktails and iced tea, but I ordered myself a glass of Gewurztraminer, which was a good choice considering that a few of the dishes to follow needed a sweet drink to combat the super spiciness.

The menu features a good variety of choices family style, dividing its main courses into seafood and meats. The meat dishes do have more noticeable Southeast Asian influences than the seafood with such items as pork vindaloo, red curried duck, and Vietnamese chicken curry. Also offered are many appetizers, soups, and salads. For an appetizer I ordered the shrimp tod mon pla, which turned out to be little shrimp and scallion pancakes served with a cucumber peanut relish. They were crunchy and tasted simple and cleansing. For our entrees we ordered two seafood dishes, the striped bass with wok-fried napa cabbage and water chestnuts and the steamed red snapper with sauteed wild mushrooms and an herb and ginger gremolata. The waiter also recommended a vegetable side dish of snap peas and shitake mushrooms. On second thought we realized we shouldn’t have ordered two fish entrees, since it was family style.

The striped bass was the first dish brought out, followed about ten to fifteen minutes later by the two remaining entrees. It was batter-fried and lost under a heap of napa cabbage and a sour and spicy red sauce, which was absorbed into the water chestnuts. The waiter did forewarn me that the bass dish was very spicy, which was fine, but at least we would have had the opportunity to eat everything in order of spiciness, because we had finished the bass by the time the two additional dishes arrived. By now our palates were inundated with the heat of the bass dish, making it difficult to discern the subtle yet antiseptic flavors of the snapper, which was what I would consider an unmemorable middle-ground dish. We had imagined that the snapper would be the whole fish or at least the filet, but instead it was a center cut and it was not plated family style, for example the striped bass filet was cut up in pieces, but here the snapper was just the center cut placed on top of a bed of mushrooms. Also the menu called for an accompaniment of sauteed corn, but there was no corn to be found. The small plate of snap peas and mushrooms was sauteed in a sweet sauce, very similar in flavor to most Chinese food take-out. It’s price at $8 would be the price of a main course elsewhere. I liked the striped bass the best out of the three entrees because I think it was unique, but it could have been less spicy and presented differently. Each fish entree was served with a small bowl of dryish Jasmine rice.

Up to this point I would describe the service as medium-slow but steady. We were served by three different waiters and it seemed that one was finishing his shift before he gave his tables to the waiter who took over by dessert time. Once we had ordered the dessert to split between the two of us, it came in record speed. The Ovaltine kulfi was basically a frozen stick of Ovaltine sprinkled with seeds and spices, plopped onto the plate with four warm banana slices, and dressed with whipped cream and Cracker Jack-like caramelized popcorn. The waiter assured us that this was the restaurant’s signature dish. I had read that the restaurant also specialized in durian ice cream, but unfortunately that is no longer on the dessert menu—I would have tried it. I had originally thought to order the coconut creme brulee, but since the waiter said the kulfi was the signature dish I decided that I should try the dessert most representative of the pastry chef’s vision. My assessment: the kulfi was an O.K. dish. After a few bites or spoonfuls it got boring a little too quickly. What I have since heard is that Ovaltine is very popular in India, so I guess this dessert was a unique way of representing that fact. But without this knowledge in hand, it’s easy to think that the dessert is just out of place.

We left the restaurant even before a crowd would have gathered. On arrival we only saw four people, and by the time we left there were ten people. It would be nice to see the place busy in the evening, just to see how different the decor looks in evening light and how the service adapts to the busyness. The quality of the service was good, with many attentive people, but I thought it was confusing to have three different waiters. I wasn’t sure at first if one was the beverage waiter while the other was the regular waiter, but in the end it did not make sense. In the near future I would like to go back and try the meat dishes to see how they fare against the seafood dishes. I think the restaurant comes close to creating that sense of Southeast Asia, but in the end it’s really the influence that comes through, which I guess is the goal. If you bear that in mind you will find not much at fault. Just make sure you insist that all entrees come out at the same time, and ask to know the spiciness of each dish.

Spice Market
403 West 13th St at 9th Ave
New York, NY 10014212-675-2322
Open daily for dinner from 5:30 p.m. to 12 a.m. and for lunch from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.
Appetizers range in price from $9 to $14 and entrees from $17 to $35.
There is a bento box lunch special for $16.50.

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Everything Cookies or Banana Walnut Oatmeal Chocolate Chunk Cookies

This recipe, for what I call everything cookies, was found on the back of a post card from Martha Stewart Living. I don't think the original recipe can be found on their Web site—I've looked and couldn't find it. I think the cookies are amazing so I'm writing it down here with some slight alterations.

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1-1/2 stick of unsalted butter at room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup light-brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
1-1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 mashed ripe banana
1 cup oats
1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts or pecans
8 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped or chips

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line cookie pans with oven-safe parchment paper or Silpats. Sift the dry ingredients: both flours and baking soda.

Using a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, both sugars, and salt until fluffy. Add the egg and beat on low until incorporated. Add the vanilla extract and the banana and mix until incorporated. Don't worry if the mixture looks curdled. Add the sifted dry ingredients a little at a time until almost incorporated. Using a spatula, stir in the oats, nuts, and chocolate.

Use a medium sized releasable ice cream scoop to make rounded balls of dough and space them a few inches apart on cookie sheets. Bake for about 12 minutes or until cookie edges are lightly golden. Let cool in pan before transferring to a cooling rack to cool completely. Cookies can be enjoyed immediately or stowed away in a sealed container for a few days. Yield: 14-16 large cookies.

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Le Zie

A charming neighborhood trattoria, Le Zie slowly reveals itself to be more than just that. From the outside the restaurant appears to be a small unassuming hole in the wall, but from inside, just beyond the small front room, there is the side bar, back room with another bar, and a private dining room upstairs. Our group of five was led to the back room overlooking what appeared to be a garden courtyard and fountain. The garden theme followed through to the bar, which had an urn full of fresh blooming cherry blossom branches. The darkness of the room was somewhat dispelled by romantic candlelight that took a little getting used to. The high wood-beamed ceilings, clay-tiled floors, and thickly painted brick walls create a true Italianate aura, which contrast nicely against the modern art and black and white photography hung on the walls of the restaurant.

Our tables were two bistro tables pushed together for the five of us—a bit crammed but somewhat manageable. We were offered bottled water, but asked for tap water, which was served from a vintage soda bottle with a lightning stopper. The waitress then rattled off a very long list of specials that she had almost thoroughly memorized except for the last two, for which she had to consult her note pad. After talking for a bit to reacquaint ourselves with each other’s goings about and at the same time turning away the waitress a few times, we were ready to order by the third approach of the waitress. Along with ordering our appetizers and entrees we had asked to see the wine menu, from which I ordered a bottle of Umani Ronchi Sangiovese Medoro. The wine was light, fruity, not too tannic, and enjoyed by even the one of us who does not usually like red wine.

We were provided with two types of fresh bread, soft focaccia-like bread and traditional crusty bread, along with a plate of olives and roasted garlic in oil, of which we quickly asked for a second plate. We ordered one of the many special appetizers: the fava bean and radish salad with pecorino chunks and lemon vinaigrette and, from the regular menu, the baked goat cheese with tomato sauce and garlic bread. The salad was clean, crunchy, and evocative of spring. The baked cheese in tomato sauce was really a creamy tomato soup in a creme brulee dish that was good enough for soaking the bread. All that was missing from the presentation was a chiffanade of basil, which would have made for a nice finishing taste.

Once I heard that branzino was a special of the day, I could not help myself from ordering it. As I have come to read elsewhere about this restaurant, it seems that branzino is the special everyday. The salt-encrusted fish was deboned tableside and drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice, and served with sauteed escarole. It was beautifully done, subtle in flavor, and very delicate. But I was a bit shocked to discover that the fish was billed at $25. Other dishes that were ordered included, linguine, pici, tortelli, and what the restaurant claims is the most famous spaghetti and meatballs. The linguine featured tender manila clams in a clear clam sauce. The spinach and ricotta filling of the tortelli was a bit salty but otherwise well dressed in a sage and brown butter sauce. The pici was a very unique and freshly made hand-rolled ricotta pasta, gnocchi-like in texture but worm-like in shape, tossed with string beans, asparagus, and fava beans in an herb sauce. The spaghetti did not live up to its hype: the meatballs were too beefy and did not taste Italian at all, but the fresh and homey sauce just about redeemed the dish.

After anesthetically filling ourselves to the brim, we decided to share two desserts. I ordered the tiramisu with the logic that a good Italian restaurant should have good tiramisu, but many do not. So I feel it is always a good idea to test the tiramisu, but opting for this Italian mainstay dessert turned out to be an expected let down. It lacked the flavor, texture, and creaminess of a good tiramisu. Nothing can beat a homemade tiramisu. On the other hand, the second dessert, the ricotta cheesecake with a creme brulee top, which was a bit burned, was well received among the group.

Other than a few caveats with the food, the restaurant could improve upon the cramped tables and the coat racks stored in the hallway, which should be devoted to a room, but I can understand that since it is a seasonal aspect, a coatroom is not practical for a small restaurant. All in all, the restaurant does not fail to deliver reasonably traditional Italian food with a Venetian twist as it claims is its focus.

Le Zie
172 7th Ave, between 20th and 21st Streets
New York, NY 10011
212-206-8686
Open daily from 12:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.
Appetizers range in price from $6 to $14 and entrees from $11 to $18.

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Best Brownies

Here is a recipe for the best brownies. It is simple to make and is much better than those boxed brownie mixes. The result of the recipe is even better if you use high-quality chocolate and cocoa powder. The addition of the espresso powder brings out the chocolate flavor. Many brownie recipes add espresso powder or instant coffee granules for that same reason. I have adapted this recipe from many other recipes, but mainly using a recipe from Matt Lewis of Baked in Red Hook, Brooklyn. It is my favorite bakery.

3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1 stick butter, plus more for pan
3/4 teaspoon instant espresso powder
5 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped or chips
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light-brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
4 ounces of semisweet chocolate, finely chopped or chips (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9-by-9 inch pan, line with baking parchment paper, and butter the paper as well. Sift together the dry ingredients: flour and cocoa powder.

On medium-low heat, melt the butter in a heat-proof bowl over a pot of simmering water. Stir until the butter has melted completely. Add the espresso powder and chocolate. Once the chocolate is melted and incorporated, remove from heat, add vanilla, and let cool.

Meanwhile, using a whisk beat together by hand or with a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, the eggs, both sugars, and salt until light and frothy. Fold the mixture into the cooled chocolate. Add the sifted dry ingredients and fold until just combined. Mix in the chopped chocolate if using. Do not over mix. A good sign that the batter is not over mixed is that some of the flour is still visible. Spread batter in prepared pan and smooth top.

Bake the brownies for 30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with a few crumbs. If the toothpick comes out clean, the brownies will end up being over baked. Let cool completely before cutting the brownies. Use the parchment paper to lift the cooled brownies onto a cutting board. Cut with a serrated knife that has been run under hot water; do so after every cut. Yield: 9 brownie squares or 18 triangles.

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Bar Boulud

From the actual oak wine barrel restaurant sign hanging above the entry door to the cavern-like barrel vaulted ceiling, you immediately know Bar Boulud is about wine. Ever since this wine bar and charcuterie haven opened in January across the street from my workplace, I have aimed to eat there. After unsuccessfully trying to make dinner reservations in February, I finally decided that lunch was as good of a time to go. Growing up in a Hungarian household where eating butchery products is second nature, I felt ready to partake of the charcuterie. Both my German coworker and I looked forward to it.

The restaurant decor creates a beautiful play between modernism and symbolism with its unique interior design, where everything is made to remind patrons of a wine cellar, from the vaulted ceilings to the stone floors. On one side of the restaurant the walls are lined like an art gallery with framed wine stains of different types of wine, where each is indicated in a caption. On the other side, the walls appear to be metal, but with closer inspection are in fact made of gray gravel behind stainless-steel scrim—described as symbolic of vineyard terroir by the restaurant’s Web site. Further plays on winemaking include the furniture and bar, which are made of the same white oak as wine barrels. The bright orange napkins and furniture cushions offer the only bursts of color other than the framed wine stains on the gallery wall.

We were seated near the back in the rather straight-backed chairs, the kind that encourage leaning forward with elbows on the table, which may or may not be a good thing depending on the situation. But the booths or benches do have sloped backs. The restaurant was partially full when we arrived but was soon to fill by the time we departed about two hours later—so much for a quick lunch break. There is a circular table at the back of the space called the tasting table, which features an upper shelf that holds wine glasses. For special occasions and parties that table can have a sommelier stand in the center pouring wine and doling information. This table also functions as the dot to the exclamation point that is the shape of the space.

Browsing through our slim parchment-paper-like menus, emulating the slimness of the space, we were astonished by all the wonderful available selections. In the meantime we were served the most crusty and fluffy French bread with creamy butter. Hypnotized by the bread and the many offering of the menu we had difficulty selecting dishes and we ended up sending away the waitress many times. By the time she returned for the third or fourth time, we were ready to order. We began with the small degustation de charcuterie tasting at $22. A large degustation is also available for $46.

The charcuterie tasting was a simple small sampling of one piece each of pulled rabbit terrine with vegetables, chicken liver and pork pate, Guinea hen terrine, and jambon de Paris (country ham) along with marinated mushrooms a la Grecque, carrots with coriander, cornichons, pearl onions, mustard, and a plate of earthy brown bread. All the non-pork charcuterie had nice mellow flavors with the Guinea hen terrine having a more complex flavor with such ingredients as wine, bacon, onions, and mushrooms. In the end, my coworker and I both agreed that the mustard was the best and most distinct.

The wine menu offers a good selection of regional French wine and is printed three times—in the menu, in a separate wine menu, and a specials card. I was between ordering the Beaujolais or the Cabernet Sauvignon, but ended up ordering the Beaujolais, which, due to my apparent indecision, the waitress said she was going to recommend as a good pairing with charcuterie.

Upon ordering our entrees, we were once again in the same position of having to choose from many options. The menu for lunch and dinner is the same except for an additional menu at lunchtime called the Menu Bouchon Lyonnaise, which allows patrons to order any entree with the choice of either an appetizer or a dessert for the same price, or a three-course lunch with a supplement of $7. Going for the pappardelle aux olives from this menu, I was pleased with its heartiness. It was filling and featured freshly-made pasta and sumptuous pieces of braised lamb, cherry tomatoes, and taggiasche olives; garnished with ribbons of parmesan and a chiffanade of basil. The raie forestiere (stuffed skate), ordered by my coworker from the regular menu, was tender with an almost meat-like texture. It was served with earthy mushrooms, placed on a bed of silken sauteed spinach, and drizzled over with a syrah glaze. For dessert we shared the gateau Basque, really a custard pie not a cake, served with three lonesome brandied cherries. It was simple and homely and reminded me of a traditional custard pie served on Easter in many European countries. Though we were left wondering whether the cake was representative of the French or Spanish Basque region.

As I passed by a ham ready to be sliced on the counter bar while leaving the restaurant, I thought of all the charcuterie that I had not tried—definitely for next time. The restaurant’s decor and menu do not let down. The attention to detail carries through from the decor to the menu, including the tall silver breadbasket, the heavy but well-balanced silverware, and the “EST. MMVII” logo plates. The plating of the food is elegant and simple through and through. The only criticism I can make is that there was a manner of friendliness missing from the hostesses, but in general the service was good with our cheerful, polite, and attentive waitress. Bar Boulud indeed met my expectations and I look forward to going back and trying more and more charcuterie.

Bar Boulud
1900 Broadway, between 63rd and 64th Streets
New York, NY 10023
212-595-0303
Open daily for dinner from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. and for lunch from 12 p.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Charcuterie, soups, and salads range in price from $9 to $17 and entrees from $20 to $33.

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