Chicken Liver Pâté

I love dining at bistros not just for the comforting French dishes, but also the appealing appetizers. Many times I've shared an appetizer of liver pâté with a friend over a bottle of wine and lots of bread. It's a very filling and not to mention budget-friendly meal. Different forms of pâté can be found throughout Europe, mainly in France, Scandinavia, and eastern Europe. In markets, pâté can be found sold in sausage-like tubes, which is commonly known as liverwurst here in the States. I grew up eating many different types of kenőmájas, as it is known in Hungarian. I couldn't imagine not eating it, especially around the holiday time. It makes a very nice appetizer with pickled vegetables and bread, crostini, or crackers.

Pâté is one of those things that most people will only enjoy at a restaurant or buy in a meat market, but never actually attempt making at home. I've enjoyed many good chicken liver pâtés, but the ones I make myself are always just as good, if not better, than the ones I purchase. For this recipe I make pâté in the French style with a mixture of herbs and a dash of Cognac. It is spread into a terrine, the typical French container, and then enveloped in a layer of clarified butter, which is a traditional step that preserves the product for a month. But once broken through, the pâté should be eaten soon, which won't be a difficult task if it's served at a party. I guarantee that even the pickiest eater will enjoy this pâté. Liver might not appeal to many people, but when homemade and presented elegantly, it appeals to practically everyone. Maybe it's just the effect of the word: pâté.

Chicken Liver Pâté

Adapted from Gourmet.

Note: Dried herbs can be substituted for fresh, but use only 1/4 teaspoon of each.

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons duck fat
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
1 teaspoon minced fresh marjoram
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage
1/8 teaspoon allspice
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 pound chicken livers
2 tablespoons Cognac

Melt half the butter with the duck fat in a skillet set over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic; sauté until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add herbs, allspice, and season with salt and pepper. Add chicken livers and cook until just pink on the inside, about 8 minutes. Add Cognac and allow alcohol to evaporate for a few minutes. Add mixture to the bowl of a food processor and purée until smooth. Transfer to a terrine or crock and smooth top.

Melt remaining butter in a saucepan set over low heat. Let stand to separate butter fat from milk solids. Skim foam from the top. Lay additional herb sprigs over pâté for decoration. Pour over clarified butter, leaving behind the white milk solids at the bottom. Chill until firm, then cover with plastic wrap. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving. Yield: 2 cups; 8 to 10 servings.

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Parmesan Gougères

One of the simplest yet most rewarding pastry doughs in French cuisine is pâte à choux. Invented by an Italian chef who accompanied Catherine de' Medici to the French court on her marriage to the king, the recipe for pâte à choux has transformed many times over the centuries, but it now consists of milk or water, butter, flour, and eggs. The resulting multipurpose paste-like dough can be turned into many different treats, such as cream-filled profiteroles and eclairs, fried beignets, and gougères among many others. Gougères are the savory version made with cheese, traditionally gruyère. So it's simply a very French cheese puff that's light and airy-hollow on the inside and crisp and cheesy on the outside.

The best part about gougères, and pâte à choux in general, is that the dough can be made in just a few minutes. The key is to have a strong arm to beat the dough into a paste-like consistency. A food processor or mixer fitted with the paddle attachment can be used if preferred. The dough is then piped onto baking sheets using a pastry bag and tip, but if unavailable, a resealable plastic bag with a corner snipped off works just as well. The puffs are perfect for large gatherings and parties. I made them ahead of time for this New Year's Eve and will rewarm them in the oven once the evening festivities begin. The puffs are a very nice hors d'oeuvre before a holiday meal or a New Year's cocktail party. You will want to bake up many batches, because they disappear too quickly.

Parmesan Gougères

Note: For a richer puff, I use milk, but water can be substituted. Puffs can be reheated for a few minutes in an oven set to 350 degrees F.

1/2 cup whole milk
3 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
cayenne pepper
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
1 cup shredded Parmesan

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or Silpats.

Combine milk, butter, and salt in a saucepan set over medium heat. Bring liquid to a simmer. Once butter has melted, add pepper, nutmeg, and cayenne, to taste. Off from heat, add flour all at once, and stir the mixture with a wooden spoon until it pulls away from the sides of the pan and forms a ball. Add the eggs, one at a time, and stir vigorously until a paste forms. Fold in three-quarters of the cheese.

Fill a pastry bag fitted with a plain 1/2-inch tip with the dough. Pipe 1-inch diameter balls onto the prepared baking sheets no more than an inch apart. Use a finger moistened with water to knock down any peaks. Sprinkle each ball with the remaining cheese. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown. Serve warm. Yield: 30 cheese puffs.

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Hazelnut-Espresso Truffles

For me there is no bite of chocolate more satisfying than a truffle. Named after their likeness to the rare underground mushrooms, truffles are simply made of chocolate ganache, chocolate melted into hot cream. The ganache is chilled, becoming malleable, and pieces are formed into balls that truly resemble black truffles. Then the truffles are rolled in cocoa, powdered sugar, coconut flakes, or crushed nuts. They're the perfect little chocolate dessert bites, making them ideal for a party, especially one to celebrate New Year's Eve. Enjoy one with a cocktail or a glass of bubbly, and it's the perfect ending to an evening looking toward a new year filled with hope and prosperity.

These chocolate truffles are very easy to make with no cooking or baking required. Hot cream is poured over chocolate to melt it, and then combined with sugar and pulverized chocolate wafers for a bit of texture. The mixture is then flavored with hazelnut and coffee liqueurs along with espresso powder. After chilling, the truffles are formed into balls and rolled in crushed hazelnuts. If you prefer a different nut, almond liqueur and crushed almonds can be substituted. Even though they're small, these truffles are loaded with chocolatey flavor and are just a tad bit boozey. Your guests will find it difficult to keep their hands off them.

Hazelnut-Espresso Truffles

Tip: To roast hazelnuts, place shelled nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and bake at 325 degrees F. for 10 minutes or until the skins begin to show cracks. Rub the nuts with a kitchen towel to remove skins. Grind them in a food processor.

1 9-ounce package chocolate wafers
1 cup confectioners sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 teaspoons instant espresso powder
1/4 cup hazelnut liqueur, preferably Frangelico
1/4 cup coffee liqueur, preferably Kahlua
2 cups ground skinless roasted hazelnuts

In the bowl of a food processor, combine chocolate wafers and sugar. Pulse until wafers are completely pulverized and are thoroughly combined with sugar.

In a small saucepan, heat cream over medium heat. Once cream is hot but not yet boiling, remove and pour over chocolate and espresso powder. Stir until chocolate has melted and is smooth. Stir in both liqueurs.

Combine chocolate mixture with wafer mixture; mix until thoroughly combined. Chill until almost firm, about 1 hour.

Use a small releasable ice cream scoop to form truffle balls. Place on trays lined with parchment paper. Chill until balls are firm, about 30 minutes.

Using your hands, form misshapen lumps into shapely balls and roll in ground hazelnuts, pressing and sprinkling nuts onto each ball. Place back on trays and refrigerate until firm. Remove from refrigerator 10 minutes before servings. Yield: 40 truffles.

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Chocolate Macarons with Ganache Filling

I love all French desserts and confections, but one of my most favorites is the macaron. Available in countless colors and flavors, macarons are very popular in France. In Paris, customers line up to buy them at many famous pastry shops, such as Dalloyau or Ladurée, which invented the double-decker sandwiched macaron in 1930. Since Paris is a bit too far for me to travel, I usually buy them at Bouchon Bakery in New York. I love all the flavors they offer even though their selection is not as wide as in France. But for me it doesn't matter, because the chocolate macaron is what I consider to be the best.

French macarons are basically meringue cookies made only of powdered sugar, egg whites, and almond flour. Getting the proportions exactly correct is key to the perfect macaron. Unlike the dense and chewy coconut macaroons, which French macarons are almost always confused with, macarons are smooth, light as air, and only slightly chewy. A smooth and flavorful filling in between two of the cookies is the icing on the cake. Pastry shops have come up with very unusual macarons and fillings, such as passion fruit and green tea, but the chocolate macaron is probably the most popular.



There are countless recipes for macarons in books, magazines, and online. Many of them have varying directions. Some say to age the egg whites for days or let the macarons chill for hours before baking, but for me that all just seems like old wives' tales. Since I'm baking for Christmas, I didn't have to time to test recipes against one another, so I relied on David Lebovitz's recipe from his book The Sweet Life in Paris. Luckily, as a famed pastry chef, he's tested many macaron recipes. I adapted his recipe to suit my tastes and found the results to be excellent. Biting into one of these macarons is such a treat; it's a little bomb of chocolatey goodness.

Chocolate Macarons

1 cup confectioners sugar
1/2 cup almond flour
3 tablespoons cocoa powder
2 large egg whites
1/4 cup granulated sugar
ganache filling, recipe follows

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat.

Sift together dry ingredients: confectioners sugar, almond flour, and cocoa powder. Press any lumps or bits of almond through. Anything that does not go through should be discarded.

In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites with granulated sugar until smooth, firm, and glossy.

Fold the dry ingredients into the beaten egg whites a little at a time until just combined and no white shows. Do not over mix.

Fill a pastry bag fitted with a plain 1/2-inch tip with the batter. Pipe 1-inch diameter coins onto the prepared baking sheet no more than an inch apart. Use a finger moistened with water to knock down any peaks. To even out any misshapen rounds, rap the pan against the counter. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool completely.

To fill the macarons, spread each bottom with 1 teaspoon of chilled ganache filling and cover with tops, squeezing lightly. Yield: 15 sandwiched macarons.

Ganache Filling

1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon coffee liqueur

In a small saucepan, heat cream with corn syrup over medium heat. Once cream is hot but not yet boiling, remove and pour over chocolate. Stir until chocolate has melted and is smooth. Stir in butter and liqueur. Chill for 15 to 20 minutes before using. Yield: 2 cups.

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Fruitcake Loaves

I've never been able to understand why Christmas fruitcake is hated so much. What makes it such a dreaded gift, one that gets passed about or relegated to the back of the fridge? I must say I'm not the biggest fan of the cake, some are rather good, but others are just too dense and way too boozey. But this year for Christmas, I was willing to make a better fruitcake. So when a friend suggested I try making the cake from a recipe she loved just to see if I could possibly love it, I decided to give it a wholehearted try. I usually love other cakes that contain dried fruit, so what could be so bad about fruitcakes? And if they turned out better than expected, I'd have something more traditional to hand out as gifts to my fiends and neighbors.

First, I set myself some ground rules: I would under no circumstances use bright technicolor candied fruit, but instead use naturally dried fruits. And I would not soak the cake in booze and age it for days as most recipes suggest; I would only soak the fruit in booze. I simply don't like a soggy cake and I don't intend to preserve it for years to come, which in the medieval past was the reason why these cakes were so laden with alcohol. I wanted a lighter cake that had the likeness of a good nut bread but with a holiday flair. And I believe I was able to achieve that and more.

I was surprised by the results. The cake was dense but had a nice texture. The dried fruit was very flavorful from my combination of rum, a traditional ingredient, and vermouth, a fortified wine flavored with herbs and spices. The many ground spices also contributed to a fragrance and flavor reminiscent of pumpkin pie. For a beautiful cross-sampling of colors, I used dried papaya, cranberries, pineapple, golden raisins, dark raisins, and dates. A bit of crystallized ginger added hot spiciness. The best part about making fruitcake is that the recipe is completely up to interpretation. Any dried fruits or nuts can be added. Any liquor will work fine for flavoring. The cake reflects the tastes of the baker, meaning it can be altered to your liking. Now, what's not to like about fruitcake?

Fruitcake Loaves

Recipe adapted from Alton Brown's Free-Range Fruitcake.

1/2 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup dark raisins
1/2 cup chopped dried cranberries
1/2 cup chopped dried papaya
1/2 cup chopped dried pineapple
1/2 cup chopped dried dates
1/4 cup chopped candied ginger
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon orange zest
1/2 cup gold rum
1/2 cup sweet vermouth
3/4 cup sugar
10 tablespoons (1-1/4 sticks) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1-3/4 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 eggs

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Butter four small (6-by-3-1/2-by-2-1/4-inch) loaf pans and dust with flour.

Combine dried fruits and zests with rum and vermouth in a microwave-safe bowl. Heat in the microwave for 5 minutes. Combine reconstituted fruits with sugar, butter, and spices in a saucepan set over medium-high heat. Bring mixture to a boil, stirring often to keep from scorching. Simmer until sugar and butter has melted. Let cool.

Sift together dry ingredients: flour, baking soda, and baking powder. Add dry ingredients to fruit mixture and mix well to combine. Beat in eggs until thoroughly combined. Divide batter among prepared pans. Bake for 30 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centers come out clean. Cool loaves in the pans for 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely. Yield: 4 small loaves.

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Cranberry-Pistachio Biscotti

Biscotti, the popular Italian cookies, can be enjoyed any time of the year, but I find them especially appealing for the holidays. Typically made with almonds and called cantucci in Tuscany, these little treats can include any combination of nuts and dried fruits. Bright red cranberries and green pistachios are ideal for Christmas. I make them every year to share with neighbors and friends who stop by between the two holidays. They go great with coffee and tea and are perfect for dipping.

Traditionally quite dry, biscotti go well with beverages or, as the Italians enjoy them, with the dessert wine Vin Santo. The name "biscotti" translates to twice-baked. First, they are baked through and second, they are dried out. This method of preservation dates back to Roman times, when biscuits were made to last for journeys as long as months. I wouldn't recommend keeping them around for that long. However, they can be stored nicely in a tightly sealed container. But I'm sure they will disappear soon enough.

For this recipe, I add olive oil and honey for a hint of fragrance and fruitiness. I use a portion of whole-wheat pastry flour, which makes the cookies a bit more crisp. A portion of regular whole-wheat flour or the full amount of all-purpose flour would also work fine. Feel free to try a different combination of nuts and fruits. Almonds or hazelnuts are the most traditional in Italy. Besides dried cranberries, dried cherries also lend a beautiful color for a holiday treat.

Cranberry-Pistachio Biscotti

1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup pistachios, roughly chopped
2/3 cup dried cranberries, roughly chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Sift together dry ingredients: flours, baking powder, and salt.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add eggs and mix until combined. Add oil, honey, lemon zest and juice, and vanilla; mix until combined. Add the dry ingredients a little at a time on low speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Mix until combined.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead a few times and form into two logs, about 12-inches long by 2-inches wide. Place on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake until pale golden, about 25 minutes. Let cool 20 minutes. Slice logs diagonally into 3/4-inch-thick slices. Place on baking sheet with cut side down. Bake 5 minutes on one side, turn the biscotti over, and bake an additional 5 minutes until lightly golden. Let cool completely. Yield: 30 biscotti.

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Molten Chocolate Cakes

Chocolate molten cake is my personal weakness. I cannot go without ordering it when I see it on a restaurant menu. Fairly common on many menus, it is a dessert that is not always created euqal. I can attest to this because I've tried pretty much all of them. But the best molten chocolate cake I've ever had is the one served at Jean Georges Restaurant; it's a signature dish of the restaurant and is on the menu at practically all of Jean Georges's establishments. For me it is an unforgettable dish. And I convince all my friends to try it too; I rarely have to force them. As the saying goes, dessert is served last, but don't let it be least, especially not this one.

This dessert is probably one of the easiest to make at home. So if you're unable to have dinner at Jean Georges or are on a budget like I am, why not try making it at home. It's a simple yet highly rewarding dessert. It's perfect for a dinner party because it can be made ahead, refrigerated, and baked just minutes before it's time to eat dessert. The first spoonful of lava-like chocolate oozing out from the center of the cake is so seductive that guests won't soon forget it. I think any holiday meal would benefit greatly with this molten cake served as dessert. It's a little bit unexpected and will add that touch of gourmet to the evening.

Many claim to have invented the recipe, but I think it might even be a dessert that Jean Georges himself created. But with a dessert this good, you might want to claim it's your personal concoction. To put my spin on the recipe, I heighten the chocolate flavor by adding espresso powder and pure vanilla extract. For a touch of heat, I also add a pinch of cayenne pepper. It's almost unnoticeable but it makes the difference in rounding out the complexity of the chocolate flavor. Any flavorings that you prefer can be added: a hint of orange, raspberry, or mint liqueur are all great options. For the purist, leave out all the flavorings, and the result will still be as satisfyingly rich and decadent as the original.

Molten Chocolate Cakes

10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon instant espresso powder
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Butter six 4-ounce custard cups and dust lightly with flour.

On medium-low heat, melt butter and chocolate in a heat-proof bowl set over a pot of simmering water. Add the espresso powder and cayenne pepper. Stir until the chocolate has melted completely and the mixture is well incorporated. Remove from heat, add vanilla, and let cool slightly.

Meanwhile, using a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat together the eggs, egg yolks, sugar, and salt until light and frothy. Fold the mixture into the cooled chocolate. Sift the flour and cocoa powder over the bowl; fold until combined. Divide batter among prepared custard cups. Place cups on a rimmed baking sheet.

Bake the cakes until centers are soft and sides are set and pull away from cups, about 8 to 10 minutes. Invert each cup onto a plate and let sit until cake drops from the cup. A small offset spatula can be used to assist. Serve immediately. Yield: 6 servings.

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Top 10 Best Cookbooks of 2009

This year the world of cookbook publishing has expectedly turned toward the subjects of homecooking and world cuisine. These books exemplify the trend and represent the best of this past year. Ratio, my top choice, is not really a cookbook at all. It's more of a roadmap for cooking the way chefs do, memorizing rote ratios. Conversely, Marco Canora's book focuses on the importance of instinct over ratios. Chefs use a bit of both in the restaurant kitchen. Thomas Keller, unarguably the most renowned chef in America comes out with a book focused on homecooking from his restaurant Ad Hoc. It's a departure from his previous and mostly unaccessible cookbooks like his Sous Vide. There are books on Portuguese, Italian, Indian, and Greek cuisines. All show the traditional foods of each country while also bringing to light each's culinary modernizations. The most noticeable trend in latest years has been a return to artisanal baking. The books Baking and Jim Lahey's My Bread offer up recipes for all the classics as well as Lahey's application of his noteworthy no-knead method. And lastly, Judith Jones, the publishing world's famous cookbook editor, shows us how to cook economically for ourselves. Since many of us are dining out less, this book is perfect for those who seek recipes designed for one. Any of these books make a great gift for the cookbook collector or kitchen renegade.

Ratio

The very succinctly written Ratio (Scribner, $27), the newest book by food writer Michael Ruhlman, does as the subtitle suggests: it provides the codes behind the craft of cooking. Ratio is really the anti-cookbook, it does not provide recipes for bread, or biscuits, but explains the ratios that make recipes for such items work. Any cook or baker with the proper technique can utilize this book. It’s especially for the type of culinary rebel who likes to wing it in the kitchen. Many or most restaurant chefs rely on these rote ratios for their daily recipes. The book truly allows the reader to learn how to be self-sufficient in the kitchen instead of bending over backwards to follow word-by-word directions in a cookbook. If the proper ratio is met, the recipe will work. Ruhlman shows us it’s as simple as that.

Salt to Taste

In his first book, Salt to Taste (Rodale, $35), restaurateur Marco Canora encourages home cooks to cook by instinct, as he says "to salt to taste." According to Canora, taste more so than ratios will determine a dish. Canora’s many years of experience, cooking in Florence and for Tom Colicchio, as well as his Italian upbringing has led to this very informative cookbook. Included are recipes in the vein of Tuscany, an ingredient guide, and thorough tips and hints for preparations and shortcuts that dot the margins. This book brims with intelligence and confidence, aspects that Canora wants to pass on to the reader and home cook. Everyone has his/her own sense of taste and each restaurant is a reflection of the chef’s personal taste. So is homecooking a reflection of the home cook. Canora wants us to cook better by relying on our senses: to see, hear, and taste when food is done to perfection. For example, a seared duck breast will puff like a balloon when it is medium-rare. This book teaches those techniques while encouraging improvisation by means of his philosophy of taste.

Pasta Sfoglia

There is nothing more indicative of Italian food than pasta. Making pasta from scratch isn’t as daunting as it may seem to the novice cook, especially if the detailed directions in this pasta-specific cookbook, Pasta Sfoglia (Wiley, $29.95), are followed. The first book by restaurateur couple, Ron and Colleen Suhanosky covers the gamut of fresh and dry pastas, filled pastas, gnocchi, and grains. The photographs are mouth-watering and inspirational. I’ve already made sweet potato gnocchi from this book and look forward to trying the many types of pasta such as Ron’s special duck-egg pasta, farro pasta, buckwheat pasta, as well as recipes for risotto, polenta, and more. This book is an essential guide for making homestyle pasta to do the most expert Italian nonna proud.

The Pleasures of Cooking for One

Judith Jones graces us with yet another truly wonderful book, The Pleasures of Cooking for One (Knopf, $27.95), a cookbook designed for single diners. A few years ago I had the pleasure of hearing Jones speak about her then book, The Tenth Muse, at the James Beard House. There she lamented the difficulty of finding cookbooks designed with recipes for one. I am glad to see that she has remedied that niche by writing her own cookbook, one that is filled with delightful recipes. Elegant recipes for such dishes as boeuf bourguignon find a home in this book alongside simple soups and egg dishes. Jones cites cooking as an ongoing process in which one dish is not the end all but a first in a succession of reincarnations of second or even third dishes. This is important advice for the single cook who wants to make use of every purchase and leftover. Jones truly shows us it’s not a hassle to cook for oneself as many may come to think, but a pleasure.

The New Portuguese Table

The New Portuguese Table (Clarkson Potter, $32.50), the long-awaited first book from David Leite, award-winning writer and publisher of LeitesCulinaria.com, opens the doors onto the overlooked and underutilized cuisine of Portugal. Leite offers traditional recipes for sausages and salt cod fritters as well as modern-day fusion recipes that highlight the new culinary direction of the Portugal of today with its rising chefs. Anecdotes of Leite’s travels and childhood memories as well as a Portuguese-ingredient encyclopedia round out the book. A well-packaged primer to the earthy flavors of Portuguese cuisine, this book offers accessible recipes that until now have only been available at a Portuguese table.

Modern Spice

Who doesn’t love Indian food? It’s the type of cuisine that we all think we know until it comes time to actually attempting it at home. Indian cooking is daunting to most: the elaborate steps, the grinding of exotic spices, and the long cooking times can all make a novice cook’s head spin. Food writer Monica Bhide comes along with her third cookbook, Modern Spice (Simon & Schuster, $25), a new treatise per se on Indian cooking. She reinterprets, reinvigorates, and reinvents the cuisine by providing recipes that are easy to follow and use lesser yet still key ingredients that highlight the primary features of Indian cooking, which are flavor and spice. Bhide shows us through her recipes and life’s stories that a cuisine of any country is ever evolving, and this book brings the ancientness of Indian cooking into the next century.

How to Roast a Lamb

With How to Roast the Lamb (Little, Brown, $35), Michael Psilakis takes his love for the cuisine of his heritage and childhood and adds his years of restaurant experience to pull together a cookbook that seems to reinvigorate Greek cuisine as a whole. As the chef of the only Greek restaurant in the United States to hold a Michelin star, Psilakis has quickly made a name for himself in Mediterranean cooking and the New York restaurant scene. In this book Psilakis shares traditional Greek recipes influenced by his mother's palate as well as recipes from his two Greek restaurants. Anecdotes preceding each section invite the reader into the stories of his family, showing us the side of his life that shaped his future and most importantly his tastes. The book also includes a helpful section on Greek ingredients and shortcut alternatives. This book not only presents Greek cuisine but Greek culture as well.

My Bread

Jim Lahey, the founder of New York’s famous Sullivan Street Bakery and the person who almost single-handedly revolutionized baking by inventing the no-knead method offers up his unique recipes in his first book, My Bread (Norton, $29.95). In 2006, Mark Bittman of the New York Times released a recipe for Lahey’s no-knead bread, sparking Internet frenzy. Since then Lahey has created even more no-knead bread recipes based on that one mother recipe. As more and more homebakers find a renewed interest in the art of bread baking, they will be drawn to Lahey's recipes. For those who have tried Lahey’s bread or are simply curious to know, this book is just the source for making simple and very satisfying breads. What could be more enjoyable than baking fresh bread at home? This book represents Lahey’s passion for baking and his willingness to teach novice bakers or more experienced bakers the methods that have made him and his bakery famous.

Baking

Baking (Ten Speed Press, $40), the follow-up to last year’s Cooking, is another thorough culinary compendium by food-writer extraordinaire James Peterson. it covers the all-encompassing subject of baking with 300 recipes and 2000 photographs all by the author himself. Peterson focuses on recipes and techniques in the classical French style, with chapters on cakes, tarts, pastries, breads, soufflés, and mousses, among many more. Step-by-step illustrations break down more complicated recipes into smaller more understandable modules making some of the more complicated recipes more accessible. It’s the perfect book for those who want to learn everything about baking in all its precise incarnations. It’s a book not only useful for the student, but the teacher as well. I find there is always something to learn in a James Peterson book.

Ad Hoc at Home

Ad Hoc at Home (Artisan, $50) introduces us to another side of America’s top chef, Thomas Keller, one that shows him as a homecook making classic American dishes. Keller, of French Laundry and Per Se fame creates possibly his first truly accessible cookbook for the home cook. All of his books up to this point have been more or less treatises on his revolutionary work in the haute cuisine world of the restaurant kitchen. This new book, based on his homestyle restaurant, Ad Hoc in Yountville, CA, shows us that homecooking is also dear to his heart. Simple, straightforward recipes for chicken, pies, and biscuits hearken back to simpler times in American country cuisine. This is what cooking is all about and Keller, with his personal flair and technical expertise, shows cooks how to perfectly recreate these tried and true favorites easily at home. Though many recipe may seem fussy at first, it's simply Keller showing his close attention to detail, which makes his food unparalleled to others.

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Pappardelle with Short Rib Ragù

A fine Italian restaurant can always be gauged by their fresh pastas. I take notice of a restaurant's good selection of filled pastas as well as the long, cut pastas such as tagliatelle and pappardelle. Whenever I see either of those two favorite pastas on any menu, I always order it. Often it will be served with a hearty and soul-satisfying sauce of ground meat or shredded braised meat. Braising, a technique synonymous with winter, takes lesser cuts of meat and, after cooking for a long period of time at a steady temperature, transforms them into succulent, tender bits. Short ribs are ideal for braising as wonderful flavors are extracted from the meat and bones in the process. It all goes to flavoring a hearty sauce that the Italians call a ragù.

I love to make fresh pasta at home. It's just as—if not more—rewarding than eating it at a fine Italian restaurant. Here I make an almost all-yolk pasta, slice it into wide strips, and dress the finished product with a rewarding sauce. The ragù is made from a combination of aromatic vegetables and flavorful wine and stock. A bundle of herbs tied together into a bunch and added to the liquid adds additional flavor. After the ribs have cooked for three hours with the meat falling from the bone, the sauce is reduced just until slightly thickened. It's then ready to serve over the golden ribbons of pappardelle. This dish is a great choice for a weekend family dinner or an elegant holiday party in celebration of Hanukkah or Christmas. Complete the meal with a robust glass of red wine, a good Chianti perhaps.

For this recipe, a casserole with a tight-fitting lid that is oven-proof is the best choice for cooking the ribs. A Dutch oven is ideal as its cast-iron construction makes sure its contents cook steadily without any fluctuations in temperature. It can go right from the stovetop to the oven without any worry. When buying the ribs, look for short ribs cut flanken style, which means the ribs are cut crosswise. Ask your supermarket butcher for this unique cut as it is typically cut to order in meat departments. It will usually not be available on the refrigerated shelves.

Short Rib Ragù

2 tablespoons canola oil
3-1/2 to 4 pounds short ribs flanken style, cut into 2-inch segments
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 dried bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
5 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs fresh parsley
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
4 small carrots, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 medium onion, diced
2 medium shallots, diced
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 cup port wine
2 cups dry red wine
8 garlic cloves
3-1/2 cups beef stock
1 pound pappardelle, recipe follows
grated Pecorino Romano, for garnish
chopped parsley, for garnish

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.

Warm oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven set over medium heat. Liberally season ribs with salt and pepper. Once oil is hot, cook ribs in two batches, searing all sides until brown. Remove to a plate.

Meanwhile, prepare the bouquet garni by combining bay leaf, rosemary, thyme, parsley, and peppercorns on a square of cheesecloth. Bring corners together and tie securely with kitchen twine.

To the casserole, add carrots, celery, onion, and shallots; cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Stir in flour and tomato paste. Deglaze the casserole with port wine, scraping the brown bits from the bottom. Add red wine; simmer until reduced by about half and alcohol has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, beef stock, and the bouquet garni. Return the browned ribs to the casserole. Bring liquid to a simmer. Cover casserole and place in oven for 3 hours.

Remove casserole from oven and set over medium heat. Remove the braised ribs to a plate. The meat should fall off the bone. Discard bones and the bouquet garni. Shred meat into small pieces. Skim off fat from surface of the sauce. Return shredded meat to the casserole. Simmer sauce until reduced by about half.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of liberally salted water to a gentle boil. Cook pappardelle for 1 minute. Drain pasta and divide among bowls. Top each bowl with ragù and garnish with Pecorino and parsley. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Pappardelle

2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
5 large egg yolks

Combine flour and salt in a large bowl. Create a well in the center and add the egg and egg yolks. Using a fork, beat the eggs while mixing in the flour a little at a time. Once the dough has come together, if it is too dry and crumbly, a little water can be added.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Form into a ball and knead until the dough takes on a smooth surface, about 10 minutes. Form the dough into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic. Let it rest for about 20 to 30 minutes at room temperature.

Cut the disk into about 4 pieces. Work with only one piece at a time and keep the remaining pieces wrapped in plastic. Form the piece into a flat disk, lightly flour, and feed it into the machine starting with the largest setting. Fold the dough in half and roll it through again. Now start moving onto the next setting and so on until the next-to-last setting is reached. If the sheet starts to get too long, cut it in half. The sheet of pasta should be silky smooth and less than 1/16-inch in thickness.

Lay the long sheet of pasta on a lightly floured work surface. Fold it in half and half again. Using a sharp knife, cut the sheet into pappardelle, 1-inch wide strips. Unravel each strip and lightly dust with flour. Gather pappardelle into small bundles on a tray dusted with flour until ready to cook. Or let air dry completely and store in resealable plastic bags for a later use. Yield: 1 pound pappardelle.

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Top 5 Essential Kitchen Tools for Under $30

When it comes to kitchen gadgetry, many of them are just that, gadgets, but some are surprisingly more than useful. Many I consider essential. I've come to rely on the following kitchen tools because they simply work. The list contains my five favorite tools that I consider indispensable. The results of using these products speak for themselves. Some make preparation tasks easier and more fun whereas others ensure properly baked treats. Any of these tools would find a nice home in a culinary enthusiast's kitchen drawer. They also make excellent stocking stuffers for the upcoming holiday. And to top it off, they're affordable too, all coming in at or under $30.

Flavour Shaker, $30. My favorite gadget in the kitchen is the Flavour Shaker from everybody's favorite British chef Jamie Oliver. I've had mine for over a year and always find a reason to use it. The device is basically a mortar and pestle that behaves like a cocktail shaker. Simply twist it open, add whatever you like, close it tightly and shake. Unlike a mortar and pestle, you do not need to exert pressure to smash spices and you won't have bits flying all over the kitchen. The ceramic ball does all the work for you. The Flavour Shaker is easy to use and everything remains inside. I use it to crush all my spices. It's perfect for coarsely crushed black pepper for my steaks. It does wonders on a clove or two of garlic. It can also make pestos and salad dressings.

Benriner Mandoline, $20. When a sharp knife seems too unwieldy to do the trick, a mandoline is always the tool I reach for. The Benriner is one of the most affordable mandolines in the market. It's easy to use and produces high-quality results. Create very thin potato slices for gratins, fries, or chips. Julienne carrots and other root vegetables. Great for making thin vegetable slices for many recipes, from the precise cuts required by haute cuisine to the simple execution of stir-frys and salads. Thinly sliced cucumbers or radishes are my favorite. When you need to slice vegetables in large quantities, the Benriner is ideal. That's why restaurant chefs use it so often. Slice countless onions easily for that onion marmalade or pickled onions. A lengthy task is made almost hassle free. Just watch your fingers!

Beater Blade, $20. Bakers know that it's important to incorporate a cake batter completely. That's why many recipes emphasize the scraping down of the mixing bowl between each addition of ingredients. We've all ignored those directions at one time or another, but the result is more than likely a batter with lumps of sugar or flour that when baked makes an unattractive and unprofessional cake. The Beater Blade fixes that. It's perfect for for the lazy baker in all of us. The paddle blade is designed very similarly as the Kitchen Aid Mixer's blade, except that it has squeegee-like fins that sweep the bowl with every revolution. No more scraping is necessary except to remove the batter into the pan of course. The blade is available for Kitchen Aid And Cuisinart machines.

Silpat Nonstick Baking Mat, $20. Silpats have been around for many years in professional restaurant kitchens. Pastry chefs just can't do without them. Line a baking sheet with a Silpat, and anything that's placed on it bakes more evenly and the best part is it doesn't stick. Cookies slide right off. Silpats also work wonderfully for making brittles and very thin cookies such as tuiles. My favorite use for the silicone mat is for rolling out pastry for pie crusts or cookies. No flour is required and no sticking to the board. Roll the dough right on the Silpat, cut out the cookies, remove the negative space, and the mat is ready to go on a pan to be baked. Silpats are available in various sizes.

Microplane Grater/Zester, $12. The story of the Microplane as a kitchen tool began when a woman baking an orange cake, who was frustrated with her grater, decided to reach for the new wood rasp her husband had brought home from the hardware store. Ever since then, the Microplane has become a permanent fixture in the kitchen. The greatest inventions are almost always born by accident. The sharp teeth of the Microplane do wonders on zesting citrus fruit and grating spices. It also works wonders on garlic, ginger, cheese, and my favorite, horseradish. From the wood shop to the kitchen, the Microplane is an essential tool. Microplanes are available in various sizes from fine to extra course.

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Sunchoke Latkes

Eating potato pancakes carry many childhood memories for me, especially of summers spent with my paternal grandparents in the countryside of Hungary. I can almost clearly remember myself in the garden right outside the kitchen door, eating them as my mother brought them out, one by one, slathered with jelly or applesauce. Popular throughout Eastern Europe, potato pancakes are also known as latkes in Yiddish, and are traditionally eaten during the Jewish holiday of Hanukkah. They can be enjoyed as a sweet treat or a savory appetizer when served with sour cream. The purists like them plain, but I can eat them every which way. The key with these pancakes is to eat them as soon as they are fried because they are only as good as they are hot and fresh.



In this recipe I use a combination of shredded root vegetables, such as sunchokes from the Union Square Greenmarket, potatoes, and carrots. All provide a variety of flavor and texture. Sunchokes, also known as Jerusalem artichokes—though they're neither native to Jerusalem nor related to artichokes, are knobby ginger-like tubers with a slightly sweet and nutty flavor. They can be eaten with or without their skin, raw, steamed, or quickly fried or roasted. They are also a healthy form of carbohydrate, containing inulin instead of starch, making them suitable for diabetic diets. They are easy to cook with and work wonderfully when combined with other root vegetables. Every now and then my family likes to have a potato pancake night where we eat only them for dinner. Try this recipe for a pancake night with your family and make some new memories. Happy Hanukkah!

Sunchoke Latkes

Note: To shred all the vegetables, use the medium-size holes on a box grater.

1 pound sunchokes, peeled and shredded
1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and shredded
1 large carrot, peeled and shredded
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
fine sea salt
freshly ground black black pepper
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
canola oil
sour cream, for serving

Toss together sunchokes, potatoes, carrot, and flour in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add eggs; mix well to combine.

Warm oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Use a 1/4-cup measure to scoop sunchoke mixture into pan. Tamp mixture in pan to form pancakes about 2-1/2-inches in diameter. Cook 3 to 5 minutes per side until golden brown. Remove to tray lined with paper towels. Serve immediately with sour cream and a grinding of black pepper. Yield: 12 latkes.

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Baeckeoffe

When I think of casseroles, I imagine layers and layers of meats and vegetables slowly cooking together until fork tender. Baeckeoffe is that casserole; it beats all other casseroles. Beef, lamb, and pork are combined with onions, leeks, and carrots, then drowned in wine, and slowly braised for hours in the oven until just perfect. Baeckeoffe, which translates to baker's oven, originates from Alsace, France, a region that has changed hands many times between France and Germany. In many ways, especially gastronomically, it maintains a German identity. Here you will find beer, sausages, sauerkraut, and vineyards growing typical German grapes like Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Many dishes are specific to this region, Baeckeoffe being one of its most famous traditional foods.

The most appealing features of the dish are its minimum supervision to make and ability to feed a large, busy family—of particular interest in olden times. As the story goes, Alsatian women would drop off their casseroles with the local baker on Monday, which was the day set aside for doing laundry. The baker, who may have had many casseroles in his oven at one time, used a rope of dough between the rim and lid of each casserole to form a tight seal and keep in moisture. The low, steady temperature of the baker's oven was the ideal environment for cooking the Baeckeoffe. Once the women finished their chores, the children returned from school, and the husbands returned from work, the casseroles would be ready for retrieval from the baker.

The key step in making Baeckeoffe is to marinate the three types of meats and vegetables overnight with Riesling, allowing the meats to be permeated with its fruity flavors. The Baeckeoffe is ready for baking the next morning. But first, thin slices of Yukon gold potatoes line the bottom of the pot, followed by the marinated mixture, covered with more potato slices. Waxy potatoes such as Yukon gold or red-skinned work the best, because they keep their shape during the long cooking time. Another bottle of Riesling tops the contents before the rim is fitted with a traditional rope of dough to seal the lid. This step cannot be omitted, otherwise the liquid can bubble out of the pot and into the oven. The cooking environment that this creates is very similar to that created by a pressure cooker. The resulting meal will be luscious, moist, and flavorful. This winter season make hearty Baeckeoffe for your family.

Baeckeoffe

Adapted from The Cuisine of Hubert Keller by Hubert Keller with John Harrison.

Note: For this recipe I use a Dutch oven, but if you can find it, a clay tureen is more traditional and possibly better.

for the marinade:
1 pound beef chuck, cut into 1-1/4-inch chunks
1 pound pork butt, cut into 1-1/4-inch chunks
1 pound lamb shoulder, cut into 1-1/4-inch chunks
2 yellow onions, minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 small leeks, white and light-green parts only, julienned
1 large carrot, cut into 1/8-inch slices
2 bay leaves
1 sprig thyme
1 teaspoon juniper berries
3 tablespoons minced parsley
1 750-ml bottle Riesling

for the assembly:
olive oil
3 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch slices
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 750-ml bottle Riesling
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
5 tablespoons water

For the marinade, combine meat, vegetables, herbs, and wine in a large glass or ceramic bowl or dish. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Rub the inside of a 6-quart Dutch oven with oil.

To assemble the casserole, line bottom of Dutch oven with half the potato slices. Season with salt and pepper. Pack in meat and vegetables in layers. Season with salt and pepper. Pour in marinade. Cover meat and vegetables with the remaining potato slices. Season with salt and pepper. Pour in wine just until potatoes are covered with liquid.

Make a paste by combining flour, water, and 1 tablespoon oil. Knead and roll into a long snake. Place around the rim of the Dutch oven. Slightly loosen the screw of the knob on the lid to create a vent hole. Place the lid on the dough and press tightly to seal.

Place the Dutch oven on a rimmed baking sheet and into the oven. Bake for 3 hours. Remove the lid with the pastry. Serve piping hot. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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Bucatini all'Amatriciana

Of all the many classic Italian sauces, all'Amatriciana is one of the more—if not the most—famous sauces. Its claim to fame is tied closely to Rome, but as the name suggests, the small town of Amatrice is attributed with the creation of the sauce. Romans popularized the dish and switched out the more traditional spaghetti for bucatini, a long tube-shaped pasta, much like a drinking straw. It's now more common to find the dish made with bucatini than any other pasta. Whichever pasta you choose to use, the most importance lies in the flavor of the sauce. It should be porky, a bit spicy, seasoned well, and simple.

The sauce has been around for hundreds of years in many different incarnations. It first only included guanciale and Pecorino, but then olive oil and garlic were added along with tomatoes. The preferred cheese for this recipe is the sheep's milk cheese, Pecorino, for its sharp quality. Guanciale, a cured bacon made from the pig jowl, is the focal point of the sauce. It can be hard to find as it was for me. Pancetta is the only other substitute, though an Italian would frown upon using it in this recipe. Guanciale has better pork flavor and more delicate texture compared to Pancetta. Either way the recipe is interpreted, the result is a satisfying and enjoyable dish with wriggly bucatini and a full-flavored sauce.

Bucatini all'Amatriciana

2 tablespoons olive oil
6 ounces guanciale or pancetta, cut into small pieces
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 medium red onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon dried crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon Italian seasoning
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
1 16-ounce package bucatini
1/3 cup fresh parsley leaves
1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano

Warm oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Add pancetta and cook until fat has rendered, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and onion; sauté until fragrant and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add red pepper flakes and Italian seasoning; toast for 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. Add crushed tomatoes. Reduce heat and simmer sauce until thickened, about 15 to 20 minutes. Check seasoning.

While sauce simmers, cook bucatini according to package directions in liberally salted water. Add pasta directly to pan and toss to coat. Finish with parsley and cheese. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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Pan-Seared Duck Breasts with Pomegranate Jus, Persimmon Salad, and Crispy Thyme Potatoes

Growing up eating roast duck often, especially during holidays, stoked my love for all things duck. Foie gras, pâté, or duck confit, I love it all. It's a rich food in more ways than one. But for the holidays it's worth a little splurge. Most of my family's Thanksgivings were always about the juicy roast duck and not the dry turkey. As the years passed we've held to American tradition and dined on turkey for Thanksgiving, but we always have duck on Christmas day. Roasting is a great technique, but sometimes the breast tends to get dry since it cooks faster. I find the best way to cook it is by searing, which renders all the fat and crisps the skin, leaving behind a very flavorful, medium-rare cut of meat. Any steak lover would be pleased with the result. Plus searing is a fast and simple technique that does not have to be limited to holidays.

Duck always pairs well with something sweet, tart, tannic, and astringent. All of those lip-smacking aspects work to cut the richness of the duck. A good tart, tannic wine is also a must. But I knew I had the perfect pairing in pomegranate juice, pressed from the jewels or arils of pomegranates. The red, hexagonal pod fruit is readily available in the markets in the winter season. I had already been planning on developing a recipe to feature this duck-pomegranate pairing when POM Wonderful contacted me to see if I was interested in taking up a challenge of cooking with their juice. I agreed and was sent a box of juice bottles to experiment with. From that juice I was able to create the feature sauce and a complementary vinaigrette for the salad.

What I call the jus is a reduction made from the pomegranate juice along with stock and Port wine. It makes the perfect sauce to spoon over the succulent slices of pink breast. The salad is dressed with a vinaigrette that includes a touch of the tart juice. The salad is made even more interesting with the inclusion of persimmons, which are orange in color and shaped like either tomatoes or peppers. Fuyu persimmons—the tomato-shaped variety—are the most widely available in the winter season. Hachiya—the pepper-shaped ones—can also be found, but they are more astringent than Fuyu. Since they are in season right now, I could not give up the opportunity of using them in this dish. When ripe, persimmons taste mellow and nectar-like with a melon texture. To complete the meal, I add crisp potatoes for a contrast in textures. Sliced very thinly and baked, they almost resemble potato chips. Enjoy this elegant restaurant-style meal at home for a holiday meal, a special occasion, or any reason.

Opening a pomegranate can be easy if done correctly. Score the blossom end with a deep X and pry apart as much as possible. Hold the pomegranate cut side down over a large bowl with water and beat the pod with a wooden spoon. The arils will sink to the bottom and the pulp and papery covering will float to the top. Skim to remove the floaters and drain the arils.

Pan-Seared Duck Breasts with Pomegranate Jus, Persimmon Salad, and Crispy Thyme Potatoes

Tip: Start the sauce about 20 minutes ahead of any other part of the recipe or prepare it in advance.

for pomegranate jus:
olive oil
1 small shallot, minced
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
5 juniper berries, crushed
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup pomegranate juice
1 cup sweet red wine such as Port or Madeira

for persimmon salad:
2 Fuyu persimmons
12 ounces mixed baby greens
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon pomegranate juice
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

for crispy thyme potatoes:
4 to 6 medium red potatoes, sliced 1/4-inch thick
olive oil
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
6 sprigs fresh thyme

for pan-seared duck breasts:
canola oil
4 duck breasts
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup pomegranate arils, for garnish

To make pomegranate jus, warm oil in a saucepan set over medium heat. Add shallots and cook until caramel in color, about 10 minutes. Season with salt. Add crushed juniper berries and toast for 1 minute. Pour in stock, pomegranate juice, and wine. Lower heat to simmer and cook until syrupy and reduced to 1/2 cup, about 30 minutes.

To make salad, wash persimmons and remove core by pulling leaves. Peel skin using a sharp knife. Slice into thin wedges. Wash salad greens thoroughly and spin dry.

In large bowl make the vinaigrette by whisking together the oil, vinegar, pomegranate juice, mustard, salt, and pepper. Add the salad greens and toss at last minute before serving. Top salad with persimmon wedges.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

To make crispy thyme potatoes, toss potatoes in oil on a rimmed baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. Strip thyme sprigs and sprinkle leaves over potatoes. Bake until golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Using a metal spatula, flip the potatoes halfway through the cooking time to crisp both sides.

Reduce oven to 350 degrees F.

To make pan-seared duck breasts, warm oil in a large skillet set over high heat. Pat duck breasts dry with paper towels. Using a very sharp knife or razor blade, score the skin diagonally like a checkerboard. Liberally season both sides of the breasts with salt and pepper.

Once the oil is shimmering, add duck breasts skin side down. Do not move the breasts. Sear until all fat has rendered and skin is crisp, about 5 minutes. Turn the breasts over and sear meat side for an additional 5 minutes.

Place skillet in oven and let breasts cook through until the desired doneness is reached. For medium rare, an instant-read thermometer when inserted into the thickest part of the meat should read 130 degrees F. Allow the duck to rest for 10 minutes tented with aluminum foil before serving. Once rested, the internal temperature will reach 140 degrees F.

Cut each breast diagonally into 1/4-inch slices and arrange on plate. Drizzle with pomegranate jus. Stack potato slices on side of plate. Add a heap of salad with persimmons to the center of plate. Sprinkle with pomegranate arils. Yield: 4 servings.

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